The Luxury Channel – Travel: By The Luxury Channel
14th July 2016
Wildly beautiful and naturally private, Emma Oxley escapes to Fregate Island Private in the Seychelles….
I find it difficult to imagine Fregate Island Private existing without me; it seemed to exist only for me when I was there. On this diminutive Galapagos of the Seychelles, delightful people are falling over themselves to make you happy. Sometimes you can’t even see them trying to make you happy. You trip down 100 steps to a secluded beach and there’s an ice box with fresh drinks, rolled up towels on a day bed and a stretch of empty white sand.
Irresistibly tempting with a frisson of adventure, you can’t quite believe you’re allowed to enjoy this much natural beauty all alone, with a giant tortoise lodged in the shrubs and an eagle ray floating in the shallows. But if after cavorting in the soft cloud of pale blue waves you get a little peckish, reach for the phone secreted in a tropical bush and soon enough, your Private Assistant will arrive with a beaming smile, white linen and lunch.
Our Private Assistant was called Bonnie and he managed a perfect balance of relaxed charm suited to the island setting, and efficient professionalism in keeping with the price. As we luxuriated with a crushed ice cocktail enjoying our own palm-fringed Indian Ocean cove, Bonnie enquired where we might like dinner – a secluded spot by the sea, a lobster barbecue on our villa deck or Fregate House Restaurant with moonlight mirrored on the beach below? This might be preceded by high tea on a clifftop, on a boat, or in the leafy fronds of a 30 foot banyan tree.
Fregate Dining Private means you can dine anywhere you like on the island, with food and drinks included, making it a pleasure to use your imagination. Though you may have the sand beneath your toes, with hermit crabs enjoying a shell swapping party around you, the service will be perfect, the Chablis chilled and the cuisine ambitiously sophisticated.
Most of the produce, including all water, is collected or cultivated from the island and ocean, seeming to give ingredients a fourth dimension in flavour. One morning, I strolled through the green acres plucking and tasting the many varieties of basil and mint, when Bonnie arrived out of nowhere with a basket. Invited to fill it, I duly tossed in lemon grass, ginger, squash, kale and cos; Bonnie sped off with my harvest and at lunchtime, I found it transformed into a delicious, zesty salad.
Activities were included too. On our first day, we were ushered to the Rock Spa for a treatment to bring us down to earth. There was deep sea fishing that didn’t seem very sporting given the easy haul, and diving over coral gardens amidst yellow clouds of unicorn fish and the odd hawksbill turtles.
You have a buggy to zip about the paths that criss-cross the island. Tanya heads a team of ecologists, and happily accompanies guests to explore the many rainforest trails, revealing such mysteries as cashew nuts being poisonous until roasted twice (and you wonder what tragedies preceded that discovery). A myriad of rare and curious birds are at your fingertips yet quick to flee, including the Seychelles Magpie Robin which they’ve nurtured from just fourteen birds to healthy hundreds. Meanwhile, the 2,000 giant Aldabra tortoises place themselves solidly all over the island, in the middle of the buggy paths, on the helipad, and mating noisily without a by-your-leave.
The island is named for the Fregate bird which flew away when its habitat was destroyed by the 18th century coconut and bamboo planters. Tanya talks with an optimistic glow, explaining the island’s real objective is conservation. To date, they have replanted 100,000 indigenous trees so now she occasionally sights the sea bird circling nearby. ‘‘When the Fregate returns, the island will truly be considered a success.’’
The Villa Residences are utterly sympathetic with the surroundings, yet justify the price tag, competently delivering the luxury that funds the forest restoration project. On an island the size of Monaco, it is a surprise to find there are only 17 villas. Ceilings are made of ylang ylang palms, and soft teak beneath your feet keeps you forever in touch with nature. An outdoor shower has ferns peeping out of the rock walls and giant fruit bats soar above you. Subtle indulgences include crisp linen, muslin-enshrouded four poster beds, Wi-Fi and an infinity pool, though it sounds spoilt to include it under subtleties – it does cascade with natural ease into jungle foliage.
I feel like some part of me was left behind on that idyllic dot in the Seychelles. The wildly beautiful surroundings draw you in, dissolving the world about you. For a few days, your life is a horizon of clear blue sea, a nest of fresh lush rainforest filled with content creatures. I wake up in town quite disorientated, no morning yoga session by the yucca palms, while charming people prepare my papaya that dropped off a tree this morning. I can’t believe someone else is doing that instead of me.
Visiting Fregate Island Private
From 3,100 Euros for a Private Pool Residence with your own buggy to zip about the island and a Private Assistant at your beck and call, including all dining anywhere, drinks, spa and activities. From Mahé, it is a ten minute helicopter ride; alternatively if you have your own Twin Otter or Cessna, the island has its own licensed air strip.
By Ramy Salameh
22nd June 2016
Sahar Mohammedi and musicians entertained with sacred Persian songs, her hauntingly beautiful voice keeping alive the traditional Persian Radif music
Fez – the fabled city of the Maghreb and its ancient landmarks – was the perfect stage for The World Sacred Music Festival. Now in its 22nd year, the Festival is intricately interwoven with one of Morocco’s great imperial cities. The cultural cross-pollination of sacred music and artists from around the world continues to engender the original ideals for which the Festival began: peace, harmony and understanding through the language of music.
The Ingie Women’s Qanun Ensemble from Azerbaijan performed, plucking the strings of the Qanun
This year, the theme “Women Founders” paid tribute to Moroccan women who have left their mark on history. Delve into the light and shade of the medina’s maze of alleyways and it will lead to Morocco’s first University, the Karaouine, founded by Fatima El Fihriya as a centre for Islamic education and religious study, and has been the beacon of the spiritual capital of Morocco since the middle ages. Another prominent figure was Kenza El Awrabiya, the wife of Moulay Idriss, who helped secure unification between the Amazigh people and the Arabs.
R-L: Zainab Afilal, Sahar Mohammedi, Abeer Nehme, Dikra Al Kalaï as Dunyâzad and Nadia Kounda as Sheherazade
The series of concerts began with “A Sky Full of Stars,” bringing together a collection of stories from A Thousand And One Nights from the Golden Islamic Age, transporting me into a magical night of music and dance, led by Scheherazade who framed the tales. Each female artist represented a different story, through the music, dance and poetry of countries across the Islamic world and beyond. Our evening became a totally immersive adventure beautifully projected against the walls, ramparts and gate of Bab al Makina.
For the first time in the Festival’s history, a new concept to highlight one particular country was introduced, and homage was paid to the musical genius of India, the origin of many of the stories of A Thousand And One Nights. The flamboyance, extravagance and colour found in the courts of the Maharajahs and Nabobs was recreated once again upon Bab al Makina. Amongst the many performers, the north Indian Kathak Ensemble dancers showered the stage with rose petals as they pirouetted with perfect balance courting their audience with every spin and Chota Divana, the little princes of Rajasthan, captivated with their vocal range, their voices filling the vast parade ground in which we were seated.
As a backdrop, the city of Fez and particularly Fez el Bali, home to the world’s oldest and continually inhabited medieval medina, plays its own distinct melody with the rhythms of daily life providing the link, the staging and inspiration for much of the Festival. It is these sights and sounds that were to resonate most deeply with me.
A sense of timelessness imbues the ancient medina, as soon as you step beneath the Islamic arch of Bab Bajloud, one of fourteen gates that punctuate the ten miles of saffron-coloured walls and ramparts. Bab Bajloud was only built in 1913, but what draws attention to it, is the delicate arabesque and knot work ornamentations across the blue-tiled façade. These mesmeric tiles are known as Zillij and are an intrinsic part of Moroccan architecture, with Fez being the spiritual home of the art. Throughout the city, Zillij tiles can be found adorning public buildings, fountains and local residences, something of a social necessity regardless of wealth. It was within the tumult and colour that courses through the sun-dappled ventricles of the medina that the finest and oldest examples of the art can be admired, none more so than Madrassa Al Atterine, built in 1346 under the Merinid dynasty.
Zillij, meaning mosaic tile, is the work of great artisanal skill by craftsmen known as Zleyjis, but when they are placed upon the walls of a religious school dating back centuries, they become art of meditative beauty and awe-inspiring complexity. Inside the Madrassa, the rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing cursive writing that dressed these ancient scholastic walls, must have entranced and inspired students as they stepped within the inner sanctum of the school.
The 17th century Nejjarine Fountain in Place Nejjarine, which still offers water to passers-by, is another landmark that owes its beauty to generations of master Zleyji craftsman. Patterns of radiating stars enclosed within an Islamic arch demanded my attention like a firework display across a night sky.
Fez el Bali has been an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981 and continues to undergo an ambitious programme of restoration. The Nejjarine ensemble (including the fountain, woodworker’s suq and funduq) was an early recipient to benefit from the medina’s UNESCO status. The funduq, a former market area, has been sensitively restored and now houses a 51-room museum containing the vestiges of a bygone epoch that keeps alive the memory of traditional woodworking skills that are evident in the most cherished buildings of Fez. Set around a large courtyard, rising three stories with delicate cedar wood balustrades on each level that sit on sculpted white plaster columns, was reason enough to enter.
Returning to the sinuous passageways, the unrelenting tempo of foot traffic pushed and cajoled me around several corners, making way for the clip-clop of hooves from passing pack mules or young traders with carts loaded high, loudly announcing their right to move ahead. At times, this made it hard to stop and peer through doorways, which invariably opened into a cloistered space of contemplation or tranquillity that the medina’s walls have always shielded. One such door that opened briefly was that of the Karouine Mosque. As a non-Muslim, this was the only chance to glimpse the main courtyard and the ablution fountain surrounded by a checkerboard of coloured floor tiles that eventually reached the sanctity of the ‘‘mirhab’’ beyond.
This was the legacy that Fatima El Fihriya left the city of Fez in 859 and the reason she was being honoured in this year’s World Sacred Music Festival. It was not only the mosque she founded, but also the neighbouring Karouine University and Islamic library, which in its day attracted eminent thinkers and scholars from across the region. Today, it still contains a priceless collection of books that have survived in part by being bound and covered in the finest leather from the local tanneries whose processes have changed little in centuries. The newly restored Islamic library ironically sits within the metalworker’s Suq Seffarine; a constant clatter of tapping and hammering that reminds everyone that this is a place of work and commerce, as well as a learned and artistic city. All have their place within the medina.
In its own way, the World Sacred Music Festival contributes to Fez’s journey of preservation and regeneration through enhancing the city’s cultural renaissance. After more than two decades, the Festival is an intrinsic part in Fez’s rhythm of life that is both historic, authentic and why UNESCO made the protection of Fez a duty devolving upon the whole of mankind.
For more information about Fez and Morocco, go to www.visitmorocco.com .
By The Luxury Channel
16th June 2016
When it comes to travel, we all want to find that unique outpost with character, charm and just a little je ne sais quoi, something that makes a getaway just that little bit extra special. That particular travel nail is hit firmly on the head with HIP Hotels – the “hip” part of the equation standing for Highly Individual Places. So, whether that’s a private villa on a wild Greek island, or a hotel on a par with a 007 film location in Marmaris, you can bet there’s a property in the HIP portfolio that ticks all the right boxes, and then some.
The HIP Hotels name has been around for a while, but a recent re-launch has seen the business capitalise on its potential for business worldwide. Hotels that are selected to join the group share the HIP signature and, once they are accepted into the portfolio, gain a veritable stamp of approval. The fact that they are HIP hotels means they are unique properties with a story to tell and a culture to share.
In-keeping with the brand’s historical traditions, however, HIP has released The Grand Tour, a coffee table tome to celebrate all that is great about travelling in Italy. World-famous travel photographer Herbert Ypma has lent his discerning eye to the project, along with Fiorenza Lago, a writer with an infinite passion for her home country. Part of an ongoing series, the first HIP Hotels City book was released in 1999, and with the other 13 titles that followed, travel connoisseurs and curious holiday-makers alike have been waiting for HIP’s next journey.
With The Grand Tour, they will most certainly see that wish granted. Scouring Italy to bring the ultimate travellers’ encyclopaedia into one single volume, the team at HIP has worked tirelessly to uncover Italy’s hidden gems; living, eating and breathing the Italy has inspired travellers to visit here for centuries. One of the world’s most romantically idyllic destinations, readers of The Grand Tour will be instantly transported to the most inspiring properties the country can offer, absorbing their enriching culture, unique designs and majestic beauty.
Just to add a contemporary twist to proceedings, HIP has launched an innovative new web app called Sheradill. Mini breaks at HIP Hotels can easily be gained by sharing properties with friends and followers on social media. For every action or share, a user earns Sheradill credits, which in turn bring down the price of their getaway. Find the date that suits, and book the hotel – it’s that easy! Time to start planning your next escape….
For more information about HIP Hotels, visit www.hiphotels.com and for more information about Sheradill, visit www.sheradill.com .
By Fiona Sanderson
3rd June 2016
Adrian Slater, General Manager of the Grand Hyatt in South Korea, talks to The Luxury Channel about life in the hotel and living in Seoul….
How long have you been with Hyatt Group?
Almost 30 years – it’s a great company. What it does extremely well is give everyone the opportunity to grow, and I think the hospitality industry is all about creating experiences for people as well as their guests. I have had so many opportunities – I have worked in the Middle East, Australia, New Zealand, and now South Korea. I started working for Hyatt when I was 16. I was only going to work for a year as a waiter, then go onto hotel school in New Zealand and see what happened. Here I am 30 years later!
What is it like for a young person going into the hotel industry?
It’s not a 9 to 5 job. You have to be very flexible. But it’s an industry where you can see the world and there are opportunities, although maybe not early on in your career but later certainly. I think working in the hotel industry exposes you to a very multi-cultural society, understanding customers who are very different from you. That’s something you don’t realise until you have been through it. I had two roles in the Dubai Hyatt, and I really saw what a multi-cultural society is. I had 54 different nationalities coming through our hotel doors – you don’t get that in any other country in the world!
What changes have you seen in the hotel industry over the years, and where is the focus today?
I think the hotel industry has become so design-focussed – the importance of the interior designer, the space they create and the experience around it. It’s all about delivering the experience to the customer that matches the environment. I think technology within hotels has changed dramatically. From finance systems to check-in, to the telephone and internet. Consumers today are using technology more and more to find out things and the hospitality industry was very slow at first but is much savvier on that front now. You now look at the habits of the millennials and how they respond and behave, which can be quite a challenge, then you have the baby boomers who are a little bit more analogue in the way they operate. The millennials will just flick through and say, look we can get this deal. You have to be really up to speed with it to make sure you know what they are talking about and you can relate to their issues and their experience and market.
What’s the difference between a Grand Hyatt and a Park Hyatt?
Customer expectation is very high and can differ between hotels. When you come to a Grand Hyatt, you expect a grand experience. When you walk into the lobby, you are awed by the music, the ambience, and the sheer look and feel of the place. Our Park Hyatt brand is very personalised, but not so grand so when you arrive into a Park Hyatt, the lobby has a bit of a residential feel. They are all very different, though. Normally, a smaller hotel has a more personalised service than perhaps a Grand Hyatt like this, which has probably over a thousand people walking through the lobby every day. We have about a thousand staff. Koreans are fantastic in the service industry and they really pride themselves on this. I took a lot of Korean nationals with me to Dubai because they understand service and what is required to make it perfect, and they are very, very proud of that. This hotel is 38 years old and some of the employees have been here since the opening. They recognise the guests and that’s what the guests like. Recently, a guest returning after six years recognised the bell boy and gave him a big hug and said “its so nice; it’s like coming home!”
Why is Asian service known for its perfection?
If you teach a Korean how to do things well, they will do the same for the next 40 years and I think that’s a commitment. I think it’s in the culture, it’s in the history, how they strive to do better and how they are committed to making sure the guest experience is awesome. Korea is challenging but rewarding. I think there is a lot of history here, a lot of culture. They are very proud, particularly when you look at what it was like after the Korean war and what they have achieved since. I was away for five years and came back, and when I got off the plane, I said “I am home!” because relationships stick for a long time here. You can build solid relationships here but it does mean a lot of nights out getting to know people and building the trust.
What is the attraction of South Korea and who comes here as a tourist?
Our biggest market is the US. Lots of luxury brands are here. Korea is a market that is known for testing cosmetics; if it works in this market, it will work anywhere else in the world. Koreans know what they want. It’s a very dynamic city but you have to know where to go. As a foreigner coming here, it may not be as easy to get around like New York but it’s getting better. They are really committed to making it “user friendly.” I think you will find if you were lost in tourist areas and went looking for help, they would be more than happy to help and guide you where to go. The other thing is that if you have got kids, they really take care of them. If you are in a queue, they will bring you straight to the fore. Seoul is really amazing as you really have the four seasons to the fullest. The cherry blossoms are extraordinary – such vibrant colours and you see the reds, the blues – incredible! The infrastructure works, as they are all ahead of the curve.
The fashion here is amazing; you only need to sit in the lobby here and see what people are wearing. There is a real style focus here. It’s a fun city. With Korea, you either love it or hate it, and I love it. Once you know how to find your way around here, it’s amazing. If you want sophistication, it’s all here, with great hotels and restaurants. There is a big outdoor restaurant scene here, and the nightclub scene has really taken off. The Koreans are extremely well-educated with almost a 98% literacy rate. There is a massive focus from families on education, and it’s very competitive – getting into the top universities and jobs, and going overseas. They’ll speak a minimum of three languages. When I was GM of the Park Hyatt, I went into the restaurant kitchen and I was amazed; everyone spoke fluent Italian and the Koreans weren’t speaking in their own language, they weren’t even speaking English, but Italian! Korea is also quite health conscious – all the buses run on natural gas and electricity. People are recycling in line with Europe. There are vinyl bars here – like the old juke box cafes where you drink whisky, usually one or two bottles, and then it’s time to go home.
What are the defining features of this Grand Hyatt hotel in Seoul?
It’s all about giving the guest an experience which we hope we achieve. The staff are incredible. They care about their guests. At night time, the whole lobby transforms into the most amazing auditorium. We have a band and it is really an experience – the lobby lounge here is spectacular. In the summer, we have a barbeque by the pool. It’s amazing to sit out there in the fresh air and look at that view. The beauty of this hotel is that we are a resort within the city. This is the Beverly Hills of Seoul.
When you look back on your time in the industry, what do you remember?
I remember John Cleese was staying with us and he came into the hotel – where he was supposed to be being interviewed – wearing a dressing gown and slippers and I said, “Mr. Cleese, are you going for the interview dressed like that?” and he said, “yes, it’s only for the radio.” You see a lot of celebrities. The saxophonist Kenny G comes to Korea a lot. Last time I saw him, we got into the elevator and he asked me if I had heard his latest album, which I said I had not and he said, “it’s much better than my elevator music used to be!” We sit down and he has a glass of wine just like any other person, and then he hears some music in the bar and then just grabs his bag and decides to have a 45 minute jam session. It was a free concert in the bar! He wasn’t playing the saxophone, he was playing guitar and drums and it was just amazing. We gave our musicians the night off. This was not orchestrated; it was just, let’s just have a jam session. It was just giving something back to the people. So that was a big highlight.
The other person I loved was Tina Turner. She was really fit; she had her own chef who travelled with her and cooked for her. That was the key to her health. So, mixing with the celebrities and rubbing shoulders with these people is quite fun and rewarding. This hotel has been the host to four US Presidents, The Queen, and even Princes Diana. This hotel is iconic; it’s not modern or flashy – it’s a statement. Everyone knows it. If you travel around the world and say, “I work at the Grand Hyatt,” people know it. Last week, we had the French president staying – when these guys come, it runs like clockwork, all run by the Koreans extremely well. The streets are all blocked, and the police escort the whole hierarchy. It’s amazing.
What is your biggest achievement?
My biggest achievement in my career? I think it’s important as you go through your career to be very humble and realise you can’t do it alone – it’s about building a team to work with you to achieve the results. I think that’s something that only comes with experience. It’s a lot of posing the ideas but letting people run with them. The biggest satisfaction for me is seeing the team coming together to deliver the end product. My biggest wish is that I had more time going, to go around to thank everybody!
To book a stay at the Grand Hyatt Seoul, click here . For more information about visiting Seoul, click here .
29th February 2016
Umaid Bhawan, Jodhpur
In anticipation of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s visit to India and Bhutan, bespoke tour operator, Ampersand Travel, has created an itinerary to showcase the links between England and the Indian Subcontinent, existing since the days of the Raj. This 24-night all-suite itinerary to Rajasthan and Bhutan suggests palaces and hotels that hold a personal connection for their Royal Highnesses (not least as sources say that William is keen to see a tiger and visit his father’s old friends in Rajasthan).
The Oberoi Amarvilas
William and Kate would feel at home arriving at The Imperial Hotel in New Delhi, a place that dominates the bustling markets of Janpath with its cool white Lutyens design and priceless collection of British art on India. First timers should visit the iconic Taj Mahal at Agra and stay at The Oberoi Amarvilas, only 600 metres away. As wildlife enthusiasts, William and Kate would enjoy the thrill of tracking the elusive Bengal Tiger in Ranthambhore – one of the most densely populated tiger reserves in India. Sher Bagh – a SUJÁN luxury property and the first tented camp to open in Ranthambhore – provides a sumptuous sanctuary in the wild.
Sher Bagh
The Prince might like to follow in the footsteps of his father and grandmother, by visiting the ‘‘Pink City’’ of Jaipur and staying in the Prince of Wales suite at the newly restored SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace, once home to Maharaja Jai Singh and his wife, the legendary Gayatri Devi. Over at the Blue City of Jodhpur, Maharaja Gaj Singh II – a personal friend of Prince Charles – would welcome the young Royals to his home, the magnificent Umaid Bhawan Palace, also recently voted TripAdvisor’s best hotel in the world, with the Art Deco interiors of the Maharani Suite spanning the length of the palace. Kate might like to follow the Royal household in creating her own fragrance with the in–house perfumer. Jodhpur is famed for its polo season where the two renowned schools of their respective countries, Eton vs Mayo College, go head to head at the polo club. The Duke and Duchess would enjoy seeing the fine breed of Marwari horses at the Royal stables.
The final leg of the journey will be the glorious mountain Kingdom of Bhutan. The Duke and Duchess will have much to discuss with the King and Queen regarding the recent birth of the Crown Prince. If the Duke and Duchess fancy a bit of time alone, Amankora’s five lodges here offer the opportunity to explore ancient monasteries, remarkable landscapes and the region’s rich cultural heritage – all beneath the soaring peaks of the Himalayas.
Getting There
Ampersand Travel offers bespoke tours to India and the subcontinent. The Royal Connections Package starts from £17,674, comprising 24 nights based on two people travelling together and sharing suite accommodation on a bed and breakfast basis, domestic flights, private transfers, fully guided sightseeing and Bhutanese visas. For further information, go to www.ampersandtravel.com or call +44 (0)20 7819 9770.
By Michael-Ann Rowe
9th February 2016
Quebec is a destination known for being a romantic get-away, but the entire family will find fun, frolics and festivities at one of the World’s largest winter Carnivals….
After 62 years, Quebecers are no strangers to embracing the snow. In fact, their famous mascot, Bonhomme, is a 7-foot, 400-pound, walking, talking snowman! Across from Quebec’s iconic Parliament building, the stage is set as Bonhomme’s Ice Palace. It’s called Place de l’Assemblee-Nationale and it’s just one of the locations for outdoor concerts and activities. The palace looks brilliant at night time. From January 29th – February 14th, Quebec City is like a massive snow-globe that can be shaken or stirred over three weekends!
As you journey through the cobblestone streets like Place de Royale or Quartier Petit Champlain, you’ll be surrounded by Quebec City’s historic landscape that sits on the banks of the St. Lawrence River. The foundation of ‘‘Old Quebec’’ is prevalent with its Unesco World heritage site – a centuries-old fortified wall that leads you right to the Plains of Abraham – the central playground for the Carnival, which turns into a massive open snow fortress of activity.
Activities
If you’re into speed, go for the 120 meter-long ice slide (worth a screaming ‘‘selfie’’ video all the way down!). Then grab a snow tube and spin your way to the bottom of a hill before you work your way to the Sugar Shack for traditional beaver tails. Or you might want to warm your insides with the Carnival’s signature Caribou Rum – the perfect elixir for an adventurous ride with a dog-sled team, or zip-lining across the winter fairground! The Plains have mapped out a special kiddies playground where they too can happily wear themselves out.
Competitions
If you’re into watching competitions, I have witnessed one of the most extreme sports at the Quebec Winter Carnival – Ice Canoe races across the St. Lawrence River! The event has been going on since 1955 and originated from when they used to transport people and goods from Quebec City and Levis. Each year, over 50 teams of men and women from three countries demonstrate tremendous courage and athleticism as they dig and paddle through the broken icebergs that surface the river. It’s a sight to see. Another competition to watch is the one and two-man sleigh races on The Plains. Want to participate? Enter the snow racer grand prix, a giant snow-bowling competition, a snowshoe challenge, or Yukigassen (a snow-ball fight!)
Other Spectacles
One of my favorite spectacles was watching the International Snow Sculptures Competition take shape throughout the days of the carnival. As teams from around the world are provided with a box of tools, competitors start chiselling ginormous blocks of snow into monumental art pieces. When you see the sculptures, it’s quite amazing to learn some have never made a snow sculpture before.
As night approaches, the ice and snow art come alive all over the city and performers hit the concert stages. This year, there will be a symphonic tribute to the music of the Beatles, by Beatles, Abby Road & Co. You might also plan your trip around the Carnival Night Parade. In Quebec, they take the planning of costume and character creations seriously, so it’s a spectacle of colorful Cirque de Soleil-like characters and masqueraders on stilts, music and high fire acts through the streets.
If diving into the snow in your swimsuit is on your bucket list, sign up for the traditional Snow Bath with Bonhomme, on the Plains of Abraham. It’s been going on since 1987 and a sight that will have you howling.
While you’re in Quebec, take a ride ten minutes from the city center and visit the amazing Ice Hotel; an ice and snow structure of themed hotel rooms, a bar and ice slide, and its own chapel. If you’re the extreme adventurous type, you might want to check in for the night.
What To Eat
Quebec has been applauded for some of the best French cuisine this side of Europe. Open your palate to wild game in a ground beef pie, or seafood from the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, and Quebec’s amazing local cheeses melted into a fondue. As you make your way along the intertwined carnivalesque streets, the familiar sight of maple toffee in the snow and carts of poutine are simply irresistible. Add the Hotel Frontenac’s fromagerie tasting room to your list. I was in awe sitting at their 1608 wine and cheese bar while overlooking one of the best views of the St. Lawrence River.
What To Wear
Red and white are the signature colors. Along with your signature Effigy (see the picture below), you may want to sport a red or white arrow sash, to be shown off around your waist. Add a pair of carnival winter gloves and a trendy toque and you’ve got the perfect Quebec Carnival fashion statement. Dress warm so you have nothing else to think about but pure winter fun (although hand warmers are sold all over).
Admission
The Carnival Effigy is your passport to all 17 days of festivities at the main festival sites. The Effigy is a small pendant you wear throughout the carnival and costs $15 Canadian. It has become a collector’s item, with many having collected all 62 Effigies. A full carnival pass can be purchased for $35-Canadian.
In its 62nd year celebrating a magical winter fest, Quebec City shares its joie de vivre with the world. When your day winds down, take a horse-drawn carriage back to your hotel and nestle in by the fireplace at an old Victorian-style hotel or stay at the Hilton where room views overlook the St. Lawrence River, the Ice Palace, Parliament and the Plains of Abraham. The world’s snow capital gives celebrating Mardi Gras a new meaning at the Quebec Winter Carnival!
For more information, go to https://carnaval.qc.ca . Images above courtesy of Quebec City Tourism & Quebec Winter Carnival, and Restaurant L’Echaude.
Michael-Ann Rowe is an Emmy Award Winning food and travel journalist. See more of her work at www.michaelannrowe.com .
By The Luxury Channel
27th January 2016
Range Rover and Abercrombie & Kent have teamed up to create The Most Luxurious Road Trip on Earth – a road trip like no other that combines the world’s most beautiful locations, hotels and driving routes. This is an unrivalled 21 day trip-of-a-lifetime, taking in five continents, eight countries and nine of the world’s best hotels, with truly off-the-beaten-track driving experiences from behind the wheel of the most luxurious Range Rover ever produced, the SVAutobiography.
“We set out to design a trip worthy of the ultimate luxury SUV and thanks to our partners at Abercrombie & Kent we have achieved just that,” Mark Cameron, Land Rover Experiential Marketing Director at Jaguar Land Rover, told us. “From Europe to Australia, this trip is all about the epitome of luxury but done so in a Land Rover way – the unexpected, the off-the-beaten-track and the once-in-a-lifetime experiences. This itinerary represents the definitive drive adventure, achieved in the definitive vehicle.”
Starting in Europe, the trip takes in the twisting mountain roads of Monaco, the coastal highway to Portofino and the breathtaking vistas of the Italian lakes, all from the leather-lined luxury of the SVAutobiography. Accommodation for the first leg includes Four Seasons Cap Ferrat, the Villa D’Este overlooking Lake Como and the San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge in the stunningly beautiful and remote Dolomites region of the Alps. Lunch is taken at world-renowned eateries including Joel Robuchon at the Metropole and unique, bespoke activities include a personalised fragrance-making class in the lavender scented hills of Provence and a glacier picnic – by chartered helicopter – in the peaks of the Alps.
The second leg of the trip sees guests fly to Marrakech for a three-night stay at the unsurpassed Royal Mansour. Drives in the region take in the arid desert around Ouarzazate (the perfect territory to develop off-road skills!), and a route up into the Atlas Mountains, ending with a lunch at Richard Branson’s exquisite hotel, Kasbah Tamadot.
The unique climate of the Arizona desert is the destination for the third part of the trip, as guests fly in to experience the one-of-a-kind Amangiri resort in Utah. Amangiri – meaning “peaceful mountain” – is located across 600 acres, tucked into a protected valley with sweeping views towards the Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. The resort is built around a central swimming pool and blends the dramatic surrounds with deep canyons and towering plateaus to create a raw and captivating landscape. Activities for this leg include a hiking and scrambling excursion into Antelope Canyon, a private dinner under the stars at a local Sandstone Butte and breakfast in Zion National Park.
The fourth leg involves an overnight flight to Chile to experience the Atacama Desert – the driest non-polar desert in the world. Staying at Awasi – one of the most luxurious and remote lodges in South America – guests are assigned a personal concierge who designs a wholly bespoke experience customised to their interests. The driving excursions in the area are some of the most epic on earth and include a day drive to the Alamo Observatory, a £1bn telescope that can see the “beginning of time.”
An overnight flight to Sydney marks the final part of the trip. A night’s stay at the Park Hyatt means the opportunity to relax after a VIP bridge climb and behind-the-scenes access to the landmark Opera House. A short hop to Tasmania the following day provides the opportunity for a stunning drive through the vast, rugged wilderness, taking in coastal heathland and forest, giving drivers the chance to put the SVAutobiography through its paces. Guests stay at Saffire Freycinet, where they experience a breakfast like no other – standing knee-deep in an estuary enjoying fresh oysters and local sparkling wine.
Prices for the most luxurious road trip on earth start from £100,000 per person, available through select boutiques in the UK, Abu Dhabi and Monaco. Land Rover Adventure Travel by Abercrombie & Kent offers a variety of incredible driving excursions throughout the year. For more information, please see www.landrover.com/experiences/adventure-travel/index.html .
By Caroline Phillips
12th January 2016
Rolling landscapes, home grown tomatoes and traditional red clay roof tiles. This is Fattoria Corleonese, a gorgeous manor house for holidays in Sicily. It’s in the heart of the country, part of a working farm and in a building that has been in the same family since 1873. It’s set in 92 hectares of beautiful countryside, among cornfields and sheep with clanking bells on their necks. All midst plum trees, cypresses, and ancient walnut trees as far as the eye can see. You’d be hard pushed to find a more pleasant place.
The house is built around an uneven cobbled courtyard with sun-bleached terracotta walls and bottle-green louvered shutters. Plus walls that are bougainvillea, oleander and ivy clad. The hot air reverberates to the sound of cicadas and the fluttering of butterfly wings. Otherwise, all is still and peaceful, save for the occasional bark of a farm dog – of which there are four large ones of varying degrees of shagginess. That is because part of the house is lived in by the owners, a charming couple – Salvatore Paternostro, a retired lawyer and gentleman farmer, and his wife Angela, a Tuscan artist elegant in white linen.
Inside our apartment there are heaven-high ceilings and antiques: think oil paintings, elaborate, free-standing cupboards with sculpted cherubs, and dripping Murano glass chandeliers with candles. Days are spent lazily on the terrace beside the apartment, underneath a parasol midst potted geraniums and overlooking a fountain with a lion’s head.
Nearby there’s a swimming pool set in a secret garden amongst olive, walnut and almond trees, overlooked by a towering limestone mountain and bordered by rosemary and lemon verbena bushes. Hours and days pass and we do little more than gentle laps and loll beside the pool, the peace disturbed by nothing more than the occasional call of a cockerel or flit of a dragon fly.
Most days the farm hand brings us a wicker basket laden with organic produce from the land. Blushing tomatoes, baby zucchini, cucumbers with thick green skins, bottles of home-pressed olive oil and cheeses from the farm: smoked mozzarella, pecorino and home made sheep’s cheese. We feast on homemade pasta – gnocchi with tomato sauce fatto in casa, drizzled with pungent olive oil – and finish the meal with sun-ripened nectarines. And there’s the local Donna Fugata sparkling wine to accompany the meals, another present from Salvatore and Angela.
When we can tear ourselves away from this rural idyll, Corleone is a fifteen minute drive away. It’s a hilltop town made famous by Mario Puzzi’s The Godfather. Tourists didn’t come to Corleone before the film. Walk into Central Bar – it’s the one with the poster of The Godfather outside – and the owner turns on the theme tune of the movie. Its walls are covered with stills from the film – pictures of Marlon Brando wearing his gangster hat and those famous cotton-wool-puffy cheeks. By the door there are some framed newspaper cuttings that record Al Pacino’s visit to see his grandmother who lived in the town.
We drink stronger than strongest coffee and fresh-pressed lemon juice in Central Bar, hiding for moments from the searing noonday sun. Then we leave the bar, past old men sitting in the shade gossiping and setting the world to right. It seems to be a town of old men. Mostly the young of Corleone have left to work abroad.
Up the street, Luca Trombaturi guides us around an upstairs room in a former monastery – the Galleria Corleone. ‘This is my passion,’ he says, pointing to this room that bears witness to his hometown. ‘La storia del nostro passato.’ The white walls are covered with photographs of the most infamous clan members who moved from Corleone and started their clandestine operations in New York. Luca wears two earrings, shaved hair sides and tresses gelled on top. ‘Extortion, prostitution, drugs charges,’ he’s saying as he flails his arms, indicating photos on the wall of former Mafia chiefs.
Afterwards Lea Savona, the dignified and first elected female mayor of Corleone, drops by. We sit in a circle on white plastic chairs. Luca translates at breakneck speed as she tells us how she is tackling the Mafia – ‘I don’t confront them and they leave me alone to get on with my work,’ she says – and how the Pope’s secretary sent her a letter to say they were praying for her good work. ‘Would you like to go to her office to see her awards?’ asks Luca, with pride.
Another day, we go further afield – a spectacular 90 minute drive to the Donna Fugata winery in Marsala on the coast. Past villages, lush vineyards, mountains and incredible rock formations. The vineyard is family owned, and they produce 2.5 million bottles of wine a year – about ten different varieties – a mixture of red, white and sparkling white, plus a sweet wine from the island of Pentelleria. Most destined for new markets in the US, Europe and Japan. Our group tries seven wines, swilling it in their mouths, the professionals among them spitting it out. ‘It’s too good to spit out,’ says Sandra, our friend, drinking it.
Closer to Fattoria Corleonese, a mere five minutes in the car, is the Agriturismo Giardinello. We go there for antipasti, delicious pizzas and home made limoncello, sitting among tables each of more than ten people, all Italian families. We’re the only people there who speak English. Afterwards, walking midst the farm dogs and playful puppies, we go further up the hill from the agriturismo, past pens with bulls and calves, to where the farmer produces hand-made cheese. There’s a room like a walk-in refrigerator with freshly made ricotta, some recently smoked mozzarella and floor-to-ceiling shelves of pecorino truckles. The master cheese maker climbs a ladder to reach a six month old one for us to taste. It is delicious, salty yet still fresh and pungent.
But we don’t want to visit many places. Fattoria Corleonese is too much of a lure. Why leave its mellow light, spectacular scenery and our broken Italian chats with its genial owners? Why spend much time away from its fine old buildings, the peregrine falcons circling in the blue sky, the friendly farm dogs and the ancient olive trees? Or away from those rolling landscapes, home grown tomatoes and traditional red clay roof tiles?
For more information, go to www.solosicily.com or phone +44 (0)20 7097 1413. Car hire is available from www.holidayautos.com .
Caroline Phillips is an award-winning freelance journalist who contributes to publications from Sunday and daily newspapers to glossy magazines and various luxury websites. To see more of her work, go to www.carolinephillips.net .
By Caroline Phillips
7th January 2016
The sky is streaked pink and purple. There are hills that recede into the distance where the Tyrrhenian Sea twinkles and the magical Aeolian islands stick temptingly out of the water. The villa is surrounded by an organic estate with olive trees, two gamboling dogs and a vegetable garden with sun-blushed tomatoes, beans and squash. Nearby are the Nebrodi mountains with walking trails, lakes, streams and woods.
Welcome to the off-the–beaten-volcanic track. This is Casalnuovo villa in Tindari, Sicily. A charming place where few tourists go.
It sleeps 15 – perfect for families or big groups or even a business conference. Its pool looks over the rolling hills and days are spent doing gentle laps. Or lying in the sun. One day Carlo, a chef, comes and teaches us how to make pizzas. Slugging back red wine and with Sicilian good cheer, he shows us how to knead the dough and flip it in the air, before putting just-picked tomatoes and tangy local cheese on top. For all this, there’s a wood-burning pizza oven in the garden.
Another day, we go riding on Arab horses that are a mere trot from the property. We canter up paths bordered by cypruses and lemon trees, the air thick with the scent of fennel.
Further afield, the Franchetti winery beckons. (Wine producer Andrea Franchetti looks like a young Yves Saint Laurent). His rosé tastes like roses, and one red tastes deliciously like caramel: these are wines that are profound, unique and superb. There’s also Cefalu for a day trip – with its Norman duomo and seafront. Plus Mount Etna – the largest and most volatile volcano in Europe. At night, it booms theatrically and spills molten lava down its sides, splashing red under the stars.
As for food, the holiday is a hit. In Montalbano – the nearest town to Casalnunovo – we find the local speciality of fresh macaroni with pork sauce. Also worth trying are its Croccantino Bianco, a hazelnut concoction covered in white chocolate. Then there’s Fattoria Grattazzo, a remote farm house with geese and dogs wandering around outside. (It’s 15 minutes from the villa). The owner, a septuagenarian, makes all his own cheeses – including the creamiest of ricottas – and home-cured meats. He offers a rustic and delicious menu with no choice.
In Palermo, a two hour drive away, we go to one of the best friggitorie (fried food shops), I Cuochini, for arancini (rice balls), timballini di pasta (deep-fried pasta), pasticcino (a sweet pastry filled with mince) and sfinciuni, a soft flat bread topped with tomatoes, onion, anchovies, cheese, toasted breadcrumbs and oregano. It’s little more than a Euro per item.
For those who wish to strike further afield (by helicopter is best), there’s a tip-top fish restaurant, Da Vittorio. (“My favourite place in Sicily is Da Vittorio Ristorante, a fish restaurant on the beach in Porto Palo di Menfi,” recommends chef Giorgio Locatelli). The antipasti includes the sweetest of red prawns, swordfish carpaccio, octopus in oil and lemon juice and whatever the fishermen have caught that day. It’s almost worth a trip from London for its pasta with sea urchins, pasta with mixed seafood, and catch of the day grilled on the barbecue.
Back at Casalnuovo, we put our feet up to watch the evening spectacle of a star-spangled sky, glasses of local limoncello in hand. We admire the 360-degree view and the twinkling lights of boats bobbing on the sea in the distance. There’s nothing in our minds but the thought of yet another lazy day. One of swimming, sun bathing and enjoying nature. Of riding on the Arab horses stabled at the bottom of the estate. What could be more relaxing?
For more information, go to www.solosicily.com or phone +44 (0)20 7097 1413. Car hire is available from www.holidayautos.com .
Caroline Phillips is an award-winning freelance journalist who contributes to publications from Sunday and daily newspapers to glossy magazines and various luxury websites. To see more of her work, go to www.carolinephillips.net .
By Isabel Donnelly
18th December 2015
One of The Luxury Channel’s very favourite “staycation” hotels is Chewton Glen, on the outskirts of the New Forest, which celebrates its 50th anniversary next year.
Chewton Glen is one of the UK’s top hotels for a reason. Featuring an award-winning restaurant, world-class leisure facilities and luxurious accommodation, Chewton Glen is the perfect destination for romantic escapes, relaxing getaways, corporate events or even for a girl’s getaway, which is what we managed to do on a wintry Hallowe’en day.
Despite its classic heritage and old-world charm, Chewton has always been ahead of the curve. Its founder, Martin Skan, had zero experience as an hotelier when he bought the property, but he had plenty of experience as a hotel guest, which he put into practice when he made the then-revolutionary decision to put an en-suite bathroom into each bedroom. Chewton was also the first country house hotel in Britain to have a Spa, and the first to feature treehouses as suites.
Since then, Chewton has won countless accolades that are true testament to the team here. Recent awards include Executive Head Chef Luke Matthews winning Executive Chef of The Year at the Hampshire Life Food & Drink Awards 2015, and the Spa was voted third Best UK Hotel Spa 2015 by Conde Nast Traveller (on that note, the Spa itself offers particularly indulgent experiences, all in the location of this world-class retreat). Chewton has also been awarded International Five Star Standard 2016-17.
The awards speak volumes about what a wonderful retreat this really is. Surrounded by acres of nature, and just minutes from the beach, this is a very tranquil setting that enables one to simply get away from it all. Understated luxury is what this hotel is all about, giving you a home-from-home feeling when you stay.
My girlfriend and I stayed in a Junior Garden Suite with a separate bedroom and balcony on the floor above. Our suite was decorated in muted colours with velvets and fine wools placed on the beds, with comfortable deep-seated sofas. What more can a girl ask for, other than an enormous bathroom, crisp white linen sheets, huge white bath sheets and soft dressing gowns? Just what we needed on a cold, blustery evening.
Chewton Glen boasts a famous literary link through the fact that Captain Frederick Marryat stayed for periods during the 1840s, gathering material for his famous novel The Children of The New Forest (Marryat’s brother George in fact owned the property from 1837 until 1855). Today, many of the rooms have been named after his novels and the characters in them.
The perfect balance between celebrating heritage whilst keeping up-to-date is definitely what makes Chewton a holiday destination of choice. New for 2016, for instance, is the Strictly Fitter, Stronger Luxury Retreat weekend on the 8th – 10th January. A luxury health-boosting fitness weekend run by Strictly Come Dancing stars Ian Waite and Camilla Sacre-Dallerup, this is definitely one to book onto to lose those extra Christmas pounds!
However, for a far gentler start to the New Year, the Spa at Chewton Glen is a must! Offering the ultimate in relaxation, the facilities include a 17 metre indoor swimming pool, a hydrotherapy spa pool, an outdoor whirlpool, aromatherapy saunas and crystal steam rooms, all designed to help you really unwind. If you feel like you want to be a bit more active, then the purpose-built dance studio and tennis centre (with indoor and outdoor courts) are worth paying a visit. We tried the hydrotherapy pool which has has nine different areas including three single person loungers and swan neck pipes. We found the water blissfully warm and the jets comfortably powerful.
Of course, one can’t come to a hotel without sampling the cuisine! Spread across five rooms, including the wonderful Wine Room and newly constructed Summer House, The Dining Room offers settings to suit all dining occasions and times of the day, from light lunches to wine tasting dinners. The menu is English at its core. We chose a favourite, lemon grilled dover sole with locally sourced fresh vegetables – simple but with enough cosmopolitan flair to tempt even the fussiest diner. Delicious!
We were particularly intrigued by the Wine Room, which is both a working cellar and private dining area. Glancing through the wall of wine bottles carefully arranged for the enjoyment of guests, the cellar is illuminated by wine cabinets that contain some wonderful wines. This is not a pretentious cellar but a fun space either for private parties or wine tastings. Chewton holds regular Saturday night open tasting sessions available to all guests staying at the hotel, which provide an opportunity to taste an assortment of varied and interesting wines from around the globe. Cheers!
We wish the staff who make all their guests feel so special a very Happy New Year and a successful 2016.
Christmas Presents….
In the meantime, it’s nearly Christmas Day! Are you still in need of that important Christmas present? Take a look below at some of the perfect gifts available….
For Ladies That Lunch
Treat all of your friends and family to lunch this New Year. Banish the January blues with a three-course lunch for only £26.50 per person. The perfect gift to give on Christmas Day, something to enjoy even after the festivities have finished!
For Those Who Have It All
Give the gift of Chewton Glen this Christmas. From an indulgent champagne afternoon tea for two to a monetary gift voucher for them to spend on whatever they choose, why not buy that someone special a gift voucher this Christmas?
For The Ones You Want To Impress
Buy them something different this year. Find out about Tiff Needell’s fast-paced Grand Prix racing career or listen to classic West End songs being sang to you over a delicious four-course dinner. Whatever their interest, there is a special event at Chewton Glen to suit everyone.
For The Ones You Love Best
Unsure what to buy that loved one that already has everything? Give them the gift of a spa day at Chewton Glen. Enjoy a breakfast box on arrival, selected treatment, lunch, refreshments and full use of the spa and leisure facilities. The perfect start to the new year!
For more information, visit www.chewtonglen.com .
18th December 2015
Image © Unique Home Stays
Bohème. Does the very name conjure up thoughts of Puccini’s opera? Well, think again. Because this Bohème is actually one of the loveliest self-catering houses in Somerset. Say the word, ‘Bohème.’ And imagine now a converted sixteenth century former cider mill turned drop-dead stylish, modern-rustic house. Say ‘Bohème’ and imagine instead a place that was also an erstwhile dairy farm and now blends original features with contemporary dash and comfort.
Image © Unique Home Stays
I’m loath to divulge its whereabouts. It’s one of those places I’d like to keep secret. It’s just so perfect for everything from extended family occasions to hen shindigs and even office parties. Oh, all right…It’s in Stawley – just over the Devon border – and set at the end of a long farm lane, midst 100 acres of green and pleasant land. A place so peaceful you can hear a field mouse squeak. The stuff of which rural idylls are made.
Image © Unique Home Stays
My family and friends stride out into the fields with our Boxer – well-behaved dogs are welcome to stay – the winter sun smiling on our faces. We clamber over farm gates and see cotton-wool-fluffy lambs bleating and suckling. (For as far as we can walk, the estate belongs to PJ and Minky Luard, the delightful owners of Bohème). Later, we wander down the drive, this time to the River Tone – with its small waterfalls – and St Michael and All Angels, a church that dates from the 13th century.
Image © Unique Home Stays
Back at the house, there’s an indoor pool with picture window onto the rolling hills, a 25-metre kitchen/dining area with 20 red chairs surrounding a refectory table, acres of bleached wood floors and miles of under-floor heating, and a barn-size games room with pool table, comfy sofas and a wall for projecting movies from the snazziest bit of techie equipment.
Image © Unique Home Stays
Then there are the ten double bedrooms: ones that have a kind of chalet vibe with their white-on-white and wood, including one known informally as ‘the love nest.’ (It’s up a secret staircase, and is as private and comfortable as can be). Plus there’s a pretty courtyard and, at the front of the house, views that put Heaven to shame.
Image © Unique Home Stays
Most of the time we do nothing, bar the occasional lazy lap in the pool (it’s heated to 86 degrees) and playing games of cards and Scrabble and sitting reading in front of a roaring log fire (in the coolest concrete, contemporary fireplace). Somerset cider plays a starring role. We take our indolence to new heights by having massage, reflexology and facial treatments from My Personal Sanctuary , mobile therapists who put the ‘ah’ into ‘spa.’
Image © Unique Home Stays
The therapists are tip-top and offer luxurious treatments. (MPS have a national network and offer their services in exclusive rental properties). There’s something so gratifyingly slothful about being in a country house and padding around in a fluffy white dressing gown, popping onto a heated couch and having a Neal’s Yard geranium back scrub before being slathered in lavender oil for a massage.
Image © Unique Home Stays
In the evening, Sam Rom caters for us. He used to be the head chef at River Cottage. He specialises in culinary idiosyncrasies like squirrels on toast and wild boar porchetta in trotter stock. Nose to tail eating. ‘I like the cuts that most people don’t use,’ he says cheerily. Afterwards, with full tummies and soaring hearts, my family and guests tumble into our comfortable beds and sleep round the clock.
Bohème. The opera’s great. But the staycation? There’s little to beat it.
Further Information
For further information about Bohème, click here , or call +44(0) 1637 881183.
Caroline Phillips is an award-winning freelance journalist who contributes to publications from Sunday and daily newspapers to glossy magazines and various luxury websites. To see more of her work, go to www.carolinephillips.net .
By Isabel Donnelly
16th December 2015
With its perfect location moments from Mayfair, The Royal Academy, Fortnum & Mason and St. James’s Palace, plus its Michelin starred restaurant, it is easy to understand why people say St. James’s Hotel is one of the most desired addresses in London.
On this occasion, I was lucky to not only spend a day with my girlfriend doing what girls like to do – lunching and shopping – but also to spend an evening at the hotel in one of their superior suites. Upon arrival, we were swept swiftly up by private lift to the St. James’s Suite on the seventh floor with magnificent views of the Elizabeth Tower and the Millennium wheel.
The décor immediately puts you in a relaxed mood in a wonderful home-away-from-home setting, complete with designer fireplace and Bose speakers. I jumped into a huge Jacuzzi bath which comes equipped with delicious-smelling Penhaligon’s products, which offered much-needed respite after a long day shopping in nearby Bond Street!
For art lovers, the hotel boasts an impressive private art collection of more than 450 paintings, pictures and sculptures. Called the Rosenstein Collection, this spectacular showcase is a brilliant display of 20th century works from across Europe. With art and pastels adorning the walls, it is truly understated elegance and sophistication.
As cocktail hour beckoned, we headed downstairs for the delicious concoctions on offer at the bar, and also for the popcorn which apparently changes flavour every day. We were told that the one of the hotel’s highlights is their cheese, wine or chocolate masterclasses. Sommelier Christophe Thuilot has extremely trustworthy taste buds and his unconventional pairings give a new twist to the classic cheese board.
In the last few years, London has become arguably the culinary capital of the world, and the hotel’s Michelin starred restaurant, Seven Park Place By William Drabble, certainly enhances that reputation. The smallest Michelin starred restaurant in London, the dining area has been stylishly designed, and the staff here are highly professional. The restaurant recently retained its star for the sixth year running, and William’s menu is influenced by classic French cuisine but made using only the very best British produce. The provenance of each dish is derived from either a local farm or caught fresh from the sea.
We were lucky enough to sample a Menu Gourmand of seven dishes, showcasing William’s new truffle and game inspired menu. The evening included insight into the best way to cook with these fine ingredients from William himself, but also from one of his all-time favourite suppliers, John Houldsworth of Cornvale Food, part of the Gressingham Duck Company.
As delicious as the meat courses – such as marmite of game with truffle – proved to be, special mention must go to the truffle ice-cream port wine reduction dessert, which was mouth-watering! This really was a perfect way to end the evening, and we retired by our private lift to our suite, where I slept like a princess in my sumptuous bed. A memorable stay in a memorable hotel.
In the run-up to Christmas, the hotel is offering the unique opportunity to experience an exclusive tour of London on a horse-drawn carriage whilst enjoying a luxurious overnight stay in a Junior Suite. This is an unmissable chance to discover all that the city can offer, and a bespoke tour can include a trip through one of the Royal Parks, or to Buckingham Palace or Westminster Cathedral. Each tour lasts two and a half hours, and the offer is valid until 30th December 2015, subject to availability, with rates starting from £995.
By Fiona Sanderson
14th December 2015
“Aman Canal Grande Venice is a hotel, it is a Palazzo, and it is also a home, a very grand one, but still a home…”
Venice is undoubtedly one of the most romantic and beautiful cities in the world. Built on water and steeped in history, Venice is a fabled destination with a glorious past. Once a major power and flourishing trade centre in the Mediterranean, Venice today is known for its architecture and its artworks. The city plays host to several internationally-renowned events including the annual Carnival, the Venice Film Festival and the Art and Architectural Biennales.
The flow of life and history in the city, for both visitors and Venetians, is measured out by the Torre Dell ‘Orologio – the Clock Tower and its large astronomical clock, masterpieces of technology and engineering that date from 1499. Venice is also home to the Piazza San Marco and Saint Mark’s Basilica, but it is perhaps the Grand Canal that is the city’s most iconic feature, which is lined with buildings that are between 200 and 700 years old.
I was lucky enough to be invited to stay at the Aman Canal Grande Venice – the place that George Clooney recently chose for his wedding – which is situated near the Rialto Bridge in one of these regal old palazzos, at the heart of the city in the San Polo district (one of the oldest parts of the city, known for its beautiful palaces, churches and the Rialto Market). The Aman Canal Grande Venice has recently undergone a 35 million Euro major restoration project, which has meticulously returned the palazzo back to its former glory, and you are instantly transformed back in time to one of Venetian splendour. The palazzo in which the hotel is housed, Palazzo Papadopoli, was built in 1550 by the architect Gian Giacomo dé Grigi.
One of only eight palazzo monumentali on the Grand Canal, I arrived by boat from the airport, docking at a landing that leads directly into the lofty-ceilinged Reception Hall. From here, a sweeping staircase rises through two levels to the first piano nobile, traditionally the grandest floor of a palazzo that the resident family would use for entertaining (at the Aman Canal Grande Venice, unusually for a Venetian Palazzo, there are two piano nobile floors). The decorations of the first piano nobile are significant examples of the Neo-Renaissance and Rococo styles that were all the rage in 19th century Venice. The Ballroom, the Bar, the Red Dining Room and the Yellow Dining Room all have soaring ceilings with original frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers, ornate stucco, gilded mirrors, silk wall coverings, terrazzo floors – and spectacular views of the Grand Canal. These breathtakingly beautiful spaces have hosted some of the grandest of parties over the centuries.
The second piano nobile is home to the Salon; a regal, high-ceilinged entertaining room featuring a grand piano and wonderful views across Venice. The historic Library, adjacent to the Salon, is a peaceful retreat with a range of interesting books taken directly from the Count Giberto Arrivabene Gonzaga’s collection.
The privilege of space in the Palazzo extends to the Gardens, very unusual features in Venice. The beautiful gardens here are a green oasis of calm in this historic district, with water all about. In the summer months, they provide shady outdoor spaces for dining and entertaining and are very popular, I am told.
The Aman Canal Grande Venice offers 24 suites, all of which are unique in layout and design. Many feature frescoes, reliefs and chandeliers that reflect the past periods of art and architecture.
I wanted a morning off and went to try out the Spa and a facial with Aman’s specially prepared beauty products. I must say that I cannot think of anywhere more serene to have one of the best facials I have ever had. With a combination of reflexology and beautiful creams and scents, the beauty therapist worked her magic and sent me to heaven and back.
The Aman signature is one of luxurious minimalism. Whether it’s in the Spa or in the rooms, every detail is meticulously thought out. It could be the comfort and freshness of the muted décor, or those little extras such as fresh lemons and ice left for your evening gin and tonic, or the little gifts that really make you feel special. This is true luxury at its best.
With so many restaurants surrounding the Palace, it’s easy to wander out of the hotel for dinner but I was keen to try the hotel’s own Red Dining Room and a meal prepared by Chef Davide Oldani. He turned out to be most charming of men and prepared the most delicious meal of locally caught fish with all the authentic Italian flavours. The menu offered a delight of choices. If only I could stay for another night….
Venice is full or colour, music and entertainment particularly at Carnival time. I was told that the Aman can arrange costumes, clowns and dancers if needed. For flowers and decorations, they work with the most wonderful florists here in Venice, who can create dazzling arrangements (in fact, the signature flower – the white amaryllis – is everywhere in the Palazzo, in hand-blown Murano glass vases). Everyone loves candles and for special events, the team at the Aman will go to town, with candles throughout the hotel, placed under the twinkling lights of the chandeliers. To recreate a Carnival evening, they work with Venetian ateliers who can provide costumes for every guest, to be waiting in their rooms on arrival. What did I say, true luxury and service at its best!
Venice is a place for walking so of course, despite the beauty and elegance of the hotel, no trip to the city would be complete without exploring it in all its magnificent glory. But first, you must get lost! Head out the back gate of the Palazzo and start wandering. It really doesn’t matter which way you go – there is beauty to be found in all directions. I was lucky to be guided by Filippo di Lenardo, Managing Director at Elite RetrEat Italia, who knows all there is to know about hidden Venice, its restaurants and attractions. Filippo sent me to meet Mauro Vianello, a glass-maker, who took me through the art of glass and how to make the perfect shell. It was fascinating, and is what Venice is all about. I also tried Filippo’s restaurant suggestions which really completed my trip.
I will certainly remember my visit to this stylish and grand Palazzo Papadopoli, and the friendliness of the Aman staff. Where else will you get the impression that you have chanced on a house party in a grand and civilised Venetian home?
A Few of Our Favourite Things In Venice
Getting very lost!
By Ramy Salameh
19th November 2015
With the Marrakech Museum for Photography and Visual Art (MMPVA) scheduled to open in 2016 and a temporary photographic exhibition housed in El Badi Palace, Marrakech is blossoming as a centre for the arts. Ramy Salameh explores one of the world’s most photogenic destinations through its timeless heritage….
Standing on the roof terrace of Maison de le Photographie and looking out toward the majestic snowy peaks of the Atlas Mountains, standing like sentries over the city of Marrakech, I realised that Morocco’s second oldest imperial city has not changed much over the centuries and that there are two levels of life in Marrakech — the one that takes place on ground level and the one that takes place on the flat roof terraces.
The gallery was inaugurated in 2009, housing a collection of 8,000 original prints and postcards within a building that encapsulated much of what makes Marrakech so enchanting. Its location is in the northern quarter of the souk, near Madressa Ben Youseff, hidden behind one of the many unassuming Marrakechi doors within the medina; thus it remains a relatively well-kept secret to stumble upon. This was to be a recurring pattern throughout my stay.
Maison de la Photographie charts the early journey of the medium in Morocco from the late 19th century through to the middle of the 20th century. The early pioneers of photography within the region first came to Tangiers, which was seen as the gateway capital before making their way to Marrakech. These exquisite images captured the very essence of the country through the eyes and architecture of its citizens.
And so it was that these stills, hanging from the stark white walls, allowed me to compare the city in the early 1900s with the present day. Very little has changed within the walled city, the same sun-weathered faces peer from beneath hooded djellabas and the atmospheric beams of light that cut through the wooden slats of the covered souk, are still to be found within the labyrinthine warren of alleys of the old city. Similarly, the only high rise feature of the cityscape are the square minarets, whose design can be traced to the Umayyad rulers of Islamic Spain. During the call to prayer, the roof terraces are the places to be, as the first Imam sets off a domino effect that bounces from minaret to minaret across the city until it creates some unity of religious devotion.
The photography gallery is housed in an ancient Fondouk. Whilst not having the religious significance of a mosque, or the political importance of a Palace, the ‘‘Fondouks’’ (the word ‘‘Funduk’’ is still often used today for ‘‘hotel’’ in Arabic) played an important role in the medieval market life of the souk, to help stimulate the passage of trade for the passing caravans. Today, they are the workshops of artisans who dye leather, hammer metal work or serve as small bakeries.
From my perch on the terrace café of the gallery, I peered over a side railing to see a young Moroccan boy laying out rows of tanned leather hides upon the roof of the neighbouring tannery, to allow them to be dried by the sun, part of an age-old tradition. In the distance, the Koutoubia Mosque’s minaret is one of the great landmarks of the city, and is also one of the oldest, dating to the 12th century and thanks to old French colonial legislation (that no building in the medina should be above the height of a palm tree), provides the ideal reference point above the maze of the souk.
As with most fondouks and riads, the footprint of the building is based around the central courtyard, beautifully tiled and featuring a central water fountain, both of which are open to the elements and allowed to interact with bright sunlight that funnels down into the central area. This cascade of light bounces off the glass-framed images adorning the gallery walls, creating a series of reflections placing the zellij mosaic tiles and arabesque stained-glass windows of the building with these early ancestors. Whether by clever design or coincidence, this fusion is illuminating.
The maze of alleyways are the ventricles of the old city, where modern caravans of trade and life continue to pass through. The tightly-packed stalls use every inch of available space to design, drape and display their wares; everything from babouche pointed slippers to fanous lanterns and leather bags, to antiques and perfumes. But the most eye-catching are the colourful rows of spice stalls, all offering the same sculpture of fresh dates, almonds, pistachios, melon seeds, cumin, cinnamon and much more. The chequer board of produce is piled high like pyramids, engulfing the vendor who pokes his head through a solitary gap between his mountainous local fare.
The contrast of aromas overlap, mix and change as you move from district to district, each one specialising in traditional crafts. The most distinctive smell emanates from the famous Tanneries district, located in the north east of the medina just next to Rue de Bab Debbagh. The process of fermenting, colouring and drying the hides is a fascinating spectacle, but also one that requires a sprig of mint positioned under the nose.
However puzzling the souk’s alleys may appear, they eventually lead to Djemaa El-Fna square, designated and considered by UNESCO as a ‘‘masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity.’’ There can be no better description of the uniqueness of Marrakech’s famous central forum. It is, of course, the most visited part of the city by tourists and the daily ritual of snake charmers, dancers, tooth pullers, highly decorative water sellers and followers is hyped to lure the tourist dollar, yet every component has its roots in the historical fabric of the city. As night descends and the food stalls move into prime position, they become a hive of activity. Steam and smoke ascend into the night air along with the rhythmic drumming coming from the huddles of people crowding around performers. Locals and visitors sit down in the square’s alfresco setting for the renowned Tagines or Harira soup, which is a spicy blend of tomato, lentil and chickpea, to contemplate and cogitate over their busy day. So it seems natural for one of the most photogenic places in the world to be the home of MMPVA, expected to be one of the world’s biggest photography galleries. Marrakech is most definitely visualising the future.
We stayed at Le Naoura Barriere . For further information about Marrakech, go to www.visitmorocco.com .
By Fiona Sanderson
19th November 2015
“The utmost pleasure of an Art Collector is to share his passion with other Art Lovers and as many people as possible” – Elisabeth Bauchet-Bouhlal, Président Directeur Général, Es Saadi Palace Gardens & Resort, Marrakech, Morocco
The Luxury Channel was delighted to meet Elisabeth and her family, who run the Es Saadi estate and whose exquisite taste has produced something quite unique in the heart of Morocco. We spent time with her to explore her passion for art, and find out why Es Saadi has become such a success….
Situated in the heart of Marrakech, Es Saadi Palace Gardens & Resort is located close to both the bustling, history-filled Medina and the quiet of the Hivernage neighbourhood in a peaceful backdrop of lush greenery. The resort resonates with the beating heart of the city and the calm of a remote oasis. The Es Saadi Palace was built by Moroccan architect Aziz Lamghar, who studied at l’Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris, and has 84 suites and 8 Ksars, which are two story Berber-inspired villas. The Oriental architecture and design of the Palace is based on the ancient Palaces of Marrakesh, and every detail of the interior has been inspired by a love of art and design, overseen by Elisabeth and her team.
Elisabeth designed the interiors as though they were her own home, using antiques from around the world that she and her husband had collected. “We had a dream and didn’t know what it was,” she told me, “but when something beautiful comes along, you have to take it.”
The resort was originally created in 1966 by Jean Bauchet, not long after the Casino de Marrakech was built in 1952 (the first casino in Africa, and currently the only casino outside the US that welcomes the World Poker Tournament). The resort has been passed down through three generations of the Bauchet family and today, founder Jean Bauchet’s daughter Elisabeth Bauchet-Bouhlal and grandson Jean-Alexandre Bauchet-Bouhlal (along with Jean-Alexandre’s wife Caroline) lead the management of the resort.
“The hotel has been a success since the beginning,” Elisabeth tells me proudly. “When we opened, we were new – rather like a boutique hotel today. From the beginning, people came to our hotel because it was different and it was trendy, and in the sixties, everything was changing. My father knew that if you opened a place, you had to get photographs of it in the papers, and the best way of doing that was to get well-known people and VIPs photographed there. That’s why we had the Rolling Stones stay here for two weeks, so there were pictures in the press!”
Elisabeth’s family roots are in France rather than Morocco, but she clearly feels that this has only aided the success of the resort. “It was fashionable,” she tells me. “It was French people coming with new ideas, great cuisine and good service.” So how did the Bauchet family end up in Marrakech? After moving from a village in the north of France to Paris in the fifties, at the age of just 24, Jean Bauchet wound up working at the world-famous Lido, frequented at the time by the Pasha of Marrakech. Recognising Bauchet’s talents, the Pasha suggested he might want to do something in Marrakech – and so it was that the seed of an idea had been planted in Bauchet’s mind. “He definitely fell in love with Marrakech,” Elisabeth smiles. “It was different then, and it was love at first sight. But Marrakech has always had something different.”
Elisabeth herself, however, didn’t move to Marrakech until she was 23. “As a child, I wasn’t brought up here,” she says, looking around at the hotel that is now her home. “I was living in Paris, and that was our home. When I first came here, I actually wanted to be an interpreter, but my father said no, you’re going to work for the family – and it was a time when you didn’t say no to your father!”
Jean Bauchet’s dream was achieved by investing the money he had made as an artist living in Paris, but this artistic background has had a massive impact on the way the resort has developed and grown. “My father knew a lot of artists, and he also knew how difficult it was for them to live and to paint, to really find the time to do what they liked, because they had to earn a living doing something else,” Elisabeth says. “My father felt he had to help them. He gave a monthly salary to young artists and at the end of the year, they would give him a painting. We would go and choose what we liked, which was nice. My father was always interested in art, so he bought famous paintings, more expensive paintings, but he wanted to help the young artists succeed too. They did a lot of modern art, abstract art, which was rather new and people weren’t so accustomed to it. Today, though, Moroccan art is flourishing and it’s amazing. I’ve always supported it.”
Indeed, the family philosophy behind the entire resort is to support local and authentic design in order to maintain the spirit of a city steeped in culture, heritage and tradition, thus creating an homage to the best of Morocco. The art collection now numbers some 400 different pieces, including abstract paintings, large sculptures and interesting frescoes from a range of young emerging artists and renowned Moroccan talent, reflecting the diversity and culture of modern Morocco.
Aside from the art, what else is Es Saadi famous for? Well, the beautiful and reinvigorating Spa, for one thing! “What is important to us is to give people the feeling of being in an Arabian dream for a while, and to escape the stress of everyday life,” Elisabeth says. The Spa is certainly the place for doing just that, with 24 treatment rooms spread over three floors, including a Dior Institute – one of only two in the world. Bliss! We particularly liked the Moroccan hammams, inspired by ancient Oriental traditions in stunning eastern décor with mosaic zellige fountains and stuccoed cupolas. The perfect place to hide away and be primped, polished and pampered! It’s no surprise to hear that the Spa won at the World Luxury Spa Awards last year.
Another highlight of the trip was a hot air balloon ride, courtesy of Ciel d’Afrique. We left Es Saadi before dawn and drove to the countryside, where two balloons took off as dawn broke. The views of the Atlas Mountains were simply stunning, and we then enjoyed a delicious Berber breakfast on descent.
All too soon, though, my Arabian dream came to an end and I left Morocco and the beauty of the resort behind – although this perfect combination of the two cultures of France and Morocco, married with authentic Moroccan design and five star customer service means that I won’t be leaving it behind for long. A return visit most assuredly beckons.
For further information about Es Saadi, please visit www.essaadi.com . For further information about Ciel d’Afrique, please visit www.cieldafrique.info .
17th November 2015
Experience gourmet cuisine whilst whittling your waist in the historical spa town of Les Prés d’ Eugénie….
The hotel and spa of Les Prés d’ Eugénie has established itself and taken flight as one of the leading wellness destinations in France under the stewardship of the talented Guérard family. Whether you’re looking for Michelin starred cuisine, great hospitality and spa treatments based on the natural sulphur waters found in the Landes region, there is something here for everyone looking for peaceful rejuvenation.
Family-owned and evidently loved, the chateau and adjacent hotels were originally bought by Christine Guérard’s father, Adrian Barthelemy, and under her direction were re-opened as part of the Relais & Chateau group. The family have been revealing the alchemy of the healing properties of the natural landscape in all its glory since the 1970s.
The spa attracts those wanting to lose weight in the manner of the Empress Eugenie, the spa town’s namesake and unofficial patron, whose repeat visits made the therapeutic qualities of the waters famous across France. When Christine married the 3 Michelin starred and celebrated chef Michel Guérard, his nouvelle cuisine and slimming menu worked in perfect harmony to provide guests with the ultimate cure. Today people visit as much for the spa’s curative waters as for the truly exceptional culinary delights.
The Spa – La Ferme Thermale
The spa is housed in a fairytale farmhouse that takes inspiration from the popular, rustic architectural fantasies of the nineteenth century so popular amongst the nobility and European elite.
It is surrounded by a beautiful rose and herb garden that immediately appealed to my romantic sensibilities, providing an aesthetic harmony as well as a source of produce for the kitchen. Herbs are collected daily, with bouquets given to you before you bathe in the spa’s sulphur-rich waters. The French Medicine Academy consider Eugenie’s thermal waters to be particularly effective for the treatment of rheumatic and metabolic diseases, due to their rich sulphur content, which is recommended for inflammatory pain and to help the liver deal with blood sugar and fat.
The treatment rooms are some of the prettiest I have ever reviewed, and touches such as portraits of the hotel’s namesake Empress Eugenie and gold duck-faced taps add to the enchantment. However, this is also a spa that means serious business – some of the water treatments are far less relaxing than I anticipated! Each guest is prescribed a bespoke programme and, to be fair, the doctor did warn me that this treatment was painful but yielded great results. So for the purpose of journalistic endeavour, I was game. The reality of the situation I faced involved being naked against the stark tiles in nothing but a frilly shower cap having my thighs and stomach ‘‘needled’’ via a water jet. It was sharp, raw and made me feel vulnerable and exposed. But if you want to lose weight, the spa recommends the needle shower that triggers lymph and blood circulation helping to break down toxins and fat – no pain, no gain, as they say! Thankfully, the spa technician was delightful and charming throughout the ordeal, which took some of the edge off. In any case, it made the other treatments on my schedule all the more luxurious and enjoyable.
These included the indulgent, peaceful sulphur baths, a soak in the white mud pool – where I floated in suspended animation feeling like a classical statue – and an exceptional Decleor aromatherapy facial. All are an absolute must on your bucket list of spa treatments! My programme was exceptionally crafted to my every need. I had arrived at the spa in need of a little tender love and post-baby care. I wanted to lose some weight and soothe my aching muscles. The combination of the spa routine and the food menu meant that I was successful in whittling 1.5 inches off my waist and my skin felt much smoother. The most noticeable effect was the absence of muscular pain in my neck. Three months later and I am still free of neck pain, which is nothing short of miraculous, as I have tried everything in pursuit of a cure. Was it really that I had a sulphur deficiency? Are the curative powers of the water that strong? I can honestly say an emphatic yes! Sulphur is the 8th most common element in the human body. It is critical for metabolism so a deficiency damages fat and muscle cells, making them glucose intolerant. Sulphur is both anti-parasitic, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory.
Guests are encouraged to play tennis, swim, explore the grounds and keep physically active so that they have a bon appetite for the exceptional culinary delights that are on offer here. The beauty of the grounds and the facilities allow for this, and provide good soul food. I found the serenity of the pool especially satisfying and there is a personal training team in place for those who need an extra nudge.
Michel Guérard Cuisine
Guérard has had his 3 Michelin stars for 39 years and deservedly so. The food at Les Prés d’ Eugénie is exceptional. So exceptional, that I was perfectly willing to scupper my vain attempt to stick entirely to the slimming cuisine for the five days. Luckily, a feast day was included in the programme. It would be too tempting otherwise! Guérard understands the psychology, stating that ‘‘every human being functions with pleasure in mind. Nobody truly wants to live an ascetic life for slimness and health. But everybody wants both.’’
Actually, there were some main courses from the slimming menu that were just as tantalizing as those found on the gourmet menu. Michel Guérard’s slimming cuisine is delicious and divine, whilst skilfully weighing in at around 600 calories per meal. The slimming menu changes every day and includes a starter, main course and dessert. Examples of the main courses could include: champvallon lamb with thyme, creamy risotto of vegetables with shrimps, sea bass ceviche with mango, Paris-Brest with chicory, and more than 200 other guilt-free recipes!
I didn’t fully follow my programme (I said yes to bread and champagne, and the irresistible gourmet breakfasts). I had travelled with my young son and mother, and the epicurean delights on offer were a crucial part of the healing vibes I craved. However, Guérard’s philosophy (encapsulated in his book Michel Guerard’s Cuisine Minceur ) highlights the essence of well-crafted slimming cuisine and I certainly brought these ideas back to my own kitchen at home.
The Key Principles:
By Harriet O'Grady
17th November 2015
Amsterdam sits on the edge of our collective unconscious. We have all heard of its canals, the tall, narrow gabled houses, its innumerable bridges and bicycles, the red light district where the girls sit in windows and the “pot” cafes. Amsterdam, as I discovered on my first visit in early October, is all these things and more. As well as its fabled museums, which house the great collections of Rembrandts and Van Goghs, this is also a 21st Century city with the streamline architecture of The Eye and Renzo Piano’s Nemo that resembles a vast green ship.
I came to Amsterdam at the invitation of Sofitel for a seminar on wine. This year, Amsterdam was chosen to launch Sofitel Wine Days 2015, a programme of events and activities that celebrates French wine, art-de-vivre and gastronomy throughout the Sofitel global hotel portfolio. These wine days have been going for many years and take place during the traditional harvest season, enabling guests to discover French wines at Sofitel hotels around the world through events such as dinners with French wine makers, wine appreciation classes and wine-based cocktail nights.
The seminar took place at the very exclusive 5 star Hotel The Grand Amsterdam, one of Sofitel’s 5 Legend hotels. The very tall and charming general manager, Remco Groenhuijzen, explained that The Grand had been, in the 17th Century, the headquarters of the Dutch Admiralty. In the 19th Century, the building became the City Hall before being transformed into a hotel in 1998. The City Hall period was an interesting one. Various works were commissioned for the building that are considered today of artistic importance and have preservation orders on them. Sofitel is proud of this heritage and has gone to great trouble and expense to restore and preserve these works. Close to the hotel’s one star Michelin fish restaurant, Bridges, stands a 1949 mural, “Questioning Children” by Karel Appel of the Cobra movement. Meanwhile the vast Council Chamber was entirely redecorated in 1924 with stained glass, wood panelling, Murano glass lights and fine examples of Art Deco carved wooden figures. Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands was married here in 1966.
But the cherry on the cake must surely be the room where the seminar took place. This is the Marriage Chamber, completed in 1926. It is still used to celebrate marriages. I don’t think I have ever seen anything quite like it. Every inch of the ceiling was painted in intricate patterns, the walls covered with life size (albeit slightly menacing) Art Deco figures celebrating man and woman’s journey from childhood to marriage, the whole thing in a predominant colour of viridian green. The artist Chris Lebeau, an eccentric figure, shut himself up with his assistant for two years in this room, not allowing anyone access until the work was completed.
Within these extraordinary surroundings the seminar took place, hosted by Enrico Bernardo, Worldwide Best Sommelier 2004. He set out the conclusions of a global study involving seven countries (France, China, Russia, India, Australia and Brazil) carried out by the French Institute of Public Opinion (IFOP) to define how people appreciate wine. The IFOP study found that 76% of those canvassed drink wine. Interestingly, 92% of women in China drink wine, mainly white wine or champagne. 33% of people choose fine wines for special occasions. 51% of people in the study still associate wine with France.
Enrico, who had originally trained as a chef, realises the importance of matching wine with food. He has also noticed a significant shift in the way that we drink alcohol. The young (20 to 25 year olds) have moved from strong spirits to wine. Ten years ago, one person would choose the wine for lunch or dinner, mainly Bordeaux. Today, 64% of people choose wine to go with their choice of food. There is also a trend to drink important wines in a simple way – i.e. at a bar with finger food.
We were given an example of a Sofitel Wine Days dinner with accompanying wines. The sommelier explained why a particular wine had been chosen for a particular dish – either to complement or enhance the flavours. For example, Cour cheverny DeDe, Philippe Tessier, 2009 was served with red mullet, smoked capsicum jus and sourdough, whereas Meursault-Perrieres, Germain, 2009 was served with turbot and lobster, girolle and truffle.
I was put up at a new 149 bedroom 4 star hotel called The Ink which, along with Sofitel, belongs to the Accor Group. The general manager, Joachim de Looij, who was involved from the conception of the hotel to its completion, is 30 years old and the youngest hotel manager in the group. The hotel was opened in April and was completed in just four and a half months, which can only confirm the Dutch reputation for hard work and industry. Every detail has been thought through, from the very comfortable beds to the cutlery on the table. There isn’t one note that jars. The hotel is a conversion of an old existing building once the home of the Dutch equivalent of The Times, hence the name The Ink. Everywhere there are reminders of its journalistic past, from the colour scheme of black and white to the books lining the shelves in the bar area, and the anagram above the reception desk.
Concrete Amsterdam, the architects, oversaw the conversion. Their intention was to bring the street, in other words Amsterdam, into the hotel, by using outside materials within. This theme is carried through from the bar which leads in an open plan to the dining area and to the kitchen, where you can watch chefs busy at work producing quality fresh food. The effect is to make you feel relaxed and takes away the usual stuffiness of a hotel. What you see is what you get – but in a very good way. The whole place is stylish and the happy waiters are attentive and friendly. One has to wonder if this hotel isn’t the way forward and that the traditional commercial type of hotel has maybe seen its day (as it does seem terribly old hat by comparison).
On this note, I shall end and say that I came away feeling revived and optimistic. Amsterdam, with its historic past and its modern day creativity, still has much to offer the rest of the world. It definitely begs a return visit to explore the old and the new.
For further information or to make a booking, visit Sofitel’s website here .
By Hannah Norman
15th October 2015
“There ain’t no party like an Ocean Club party,” said probably no-one ever, but perhaps they ought to. A champagne-infused, black and gold-themed closing party ensured that Marbella’s biggest (and arguably best) night club destination had the season send-off it deserved, before everything shut down ready for re-opening on Friday 29th April next year.
As far as summer party destinations go, Ibiza may have always held sway over everything else, but The Luxury Channel was only too pleased to accept an invitation to Ocean Club’s seasonal spectacular – and boy, are we glad we did! We were comfortably seated in the specially set-up VIP section, right by both the pool and the stage, with views out across the golden sand of the beach in front of us that had inspired the night’s theme. This was how to do summer clubbing in luxury, glamour and style – and it was a seriously slick operation. The champagne was flowing all night – literally – and so attentive were the waiters that my glass was never empty. The level of customer service was simply seamless.
There were endless plates of sumptuous gourmet, with every palate catered for. Fresh sushi? Check. Spicy chicken? Check. Huge random dollops of mozzarella? Yep, check. As the sun went down over the Mediterranean, and the stars and the disco lights went up (we were outside, after all, making the most of the southern Spanish weather), the atmosphere crackled with anticipation of the night to come – and we certainly weren’t disappointed.
We were welcomed by opulently dressed girls reminiscent of an Arabian harem, before the Club’s resident DJs – Eduardo Reyes, B-NY and Nilo Contreras – took to the decks to get the party started. We were lucky enough to get to watch street dancing troops Danseurs Fantastiques and Young Boyzz warm up, and as impressive as this was, this proved a poor substitute for their spectacular performances on stage, with tricks and flips (and at one point, ropes of fire) that had to be seen to be believed.
However, the highlight of the night had to be a group known as Disco Bandits. A fusion of violin, sax and electronic music, this was a brilliant mix of contemporary disco clashing headlong with traditional instrumental arrangement. Perhaps not to everyone’s taste, but it worked. Their interaction with the crowd – and indeed each other – had every single person on their feet.
The event culminated in a spectacular pyrotechnic display to music, as impressive fireworks exploded across the sea front. We drained the last of our champagne, and the night (and the season itself) came to a close. Roll on next year. We can’t wait!
For more information, go to www.oceanclub.es .
21st August 2015
Belgrade
Belgradians and Beirutis have a shared characteristic – they love to party, and their legendary nightlife has become part of the fabric of everyday life. The other common factor between the two cities is that they both went through devastating and destructive civil wars that remain in their recent history and psyche. The latter encouraged the former; when citizens of both cities lived through the daily threat of bombardment, the local nightlife industry boomed, taking clubbing to an art form. When the sound of battle subsided, the sound of DJs became louder, allowing a hedonistic social scene to get the global recognition it deserved.
Lasta, Belgrade
Marko Savic, one of Belgrade’s key nightlife dynamos, is owner of Belgrade At Night and involved with Mikser Garden, a bar / design centre that is at the very heart of Savamala district; he says ‘‘the city is more alive than any other.’’ Mikser is also central to the district’s renaissance as a creative hub, as the former warehouse area of the bar exhibits the work of young designers that one can peruse whilst listening to the DJ play a classic set of 80s tunes amongst revellers outside.
Lasta, Belgrade
Savic buzzes around the hipster crowd, joining clusters of young and beautiful Belgradians who are kicking their night off at Mikser before going to party into the early hours on the river boat clubs. One of the most popular nightclubs is Lasta, which pulsates with light and energy on the quayside. Savamala is ‘‘alternative rather than bohemian,’’ remarks Savic, which reminds me of a Serbian version of London’s Shoreditch. Just around the corner Berliner Bar spills revellers on to the pavement, and bunting zigzags from building to building in preparation for a beer festival. The vibe is cool, relaxed and representative of a young dynamic population.
Savamala’s Berliner Bar
Neighbouring the hipster bars of Savamala the Belgrade waterfront development along the Sava riverbank, comprising of hotel, residential and commercial space, is defining the future. A model of the new development is housed within the Geozavod (Belgrade Cooperative Building), one of Savamala’s and Belgrade’s most beautiful architectural monuments, built between 1905 and 1907. It is ironic that the Geozavod now showcases the new waterfront architecture, because during the early 20th Century when the building foundations took shape, Serbia was a country demanding a renaissance in architectural style. Today, the Savamala district headlines a new spirit of design and innovation and will become the gleaming face of the capital’s future.
Belgrade Cooperative Building
The city is ‘‘compact and everywhere is reachable,’’ Savic says, reminding me that the Bohemian quarter nearby is called ‘‘Skadarlija’’ – or Skadarska Street – and is no ordinary avenue. The simple gradient of winding cobbled alleys in the heart of Belgrade has always been the centre of life, popular with urban bohemians. The traditional Kafanas (bar and restaurants) have inspired many of Belgrade’s actors, poets, directors, painters, musicians and writers, but fundamentally, this is a place for music, dance and celebration. The care-free attitude can be seen on sign boards standing in front of bars, offering “Free Jokes, Free Hugs, Free Advice – Beer Is Paid For” which keeps a smile on the face of tourists and locals alike. The cobble stones give an indication of how Serbia may have looked in the 15th Century under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. Belgradians fondness towards ‘‘Skadarlija’’ has preserved it from encroaching redevelopment.
Belgrade’s Skadarlija District
When the sun rises, the place to head for is Kalemegdan Citadel, Belgrade’s indefatible fortress. Centuries ago it was a defensive stronghold perched high above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and now is described as the heart and lungs of the city. The ancient walls, arches and ramparts still watch over the city and waterways, but with soft and tranquil eyes. The Citadel is Belgrade’s largest park and is an oasis of open verdant spaces, with pine trees shading the wooden benches that capture a rare breeze and a little peace in one of Europe’s most vibrant and energetic capitals.
Kalemegdan Citadel
Ramy Salameh
12th August 2015
It was as long ago as 500 years that the famous Austrian Doctor Paracelsus expressed the view that ‘‘each country is given its own illnesses, but for each of these illnesses they have been granted their own ancient medicines and remedies.’’
Standing below the thunderous and cascading Krimml Waterfalls – the fifth highest in the world, located in Hohe Tauern National Park in Salzburgerland – the doctor’s sentiments seem to make more sense. Krimml Waterfalls have been scientifically proven by the Paracelsus Medical University in Salzburg to have healing properties. The fine spray that covered my face in regular refreshing bursts accompanied by a crescendo of noise is not just visually appealing but has a positive effect on the respiratory tract and improves lung function.
The source of the Krimml Waterfalls is the mountain waters of the ‘‘Krimml Ache’’ which is a glacial stream, where the comparatively gentler flows bypass the verdant and rolling pastures so common in Austria, before hurtling down a trio of sheer rock cascades at 20 to 25 cubic meters per second. Standing at the bottom of this mighty wonder of nature, the words ‘‘glacial stream’’ seem a little tepid as millions of gallons of water is deposited into the valley each hour and the thunderous roar of nature can be heard kilometres away. The feeling is uniquely exhilarating!
The water tumbles from a height of 380 metres and hits the rocks on the valley floor with such incredible force, that the water molecules shatter into tiny fragments. The resulting effect is mushrooming clouds of micro-fine spray with a high density of negatively charged air ions which attach themselves to each droplet. When inhaled, they penetrate deep into the respiratory tract giving a long-lasting and cleansing effect on the body and immune system. As early as 1808, the late medical expert Wolfgang Oberlechner was recommending stays at the Krimml Waterfalls to his patients and this practise continues today as a natural remedy, opening up new therapeutic options to allergy sufferers and asthmatics.
The Krimml Waterfalls also have another interesting and modern historical significance, as the starting point of a journey for groups of Jewish refugees in 1947, fleeing persecution. In the summer of that year, early one morning groups of between 150 and 200 from a total of around 5000 men, women and children assembled before the waterfalls. Awaiting them was a 15 hour trek on foot. Their goal was Palestine, which could only be reached by means of illegal flight. Their lives, homes and most of their relatives from Eastern Europe had been lost during World War II and even after the war had ended, they were still being persecuted. Many survivors were accommodated in the so-called transit camps in the city and province of Salzburg. The only remaining escape route by the summer of 1947 was the arduous trek over the 2634 m high Krimmler Tauern Pass into Italy. All other routes were closed due to political pressure from Great Britain, the ruling power in Palestine at that time.
On the 60th anniversary of the exodus, the peace initiative ‘‘Alpine Peace Crossing’’ was founded in 2007 by Dr. Ernst Loschner and continues to this day. The national park APC Peace trail is dedicated to all refugees worldwide. The power and force of the waterfall and the surrounding area continues to benefit and amaze those who visit. Back in 1796, Europe’s highest waterfall was described as the “most magnificent natural spectacle in the State of Salzburg” and still today, few can argue with this, as the sheer thrill and excitement of Krimml remains as potent as ever.
For more information, go to www.austria.info .
17th July 2015
Ali Yeşilırmak and Max (image courtesy of Tamer Yilmaz)
For those who can’t bear to leave their four-legged friends at home, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah is the perfect destination. Istanbul’s most iconic hotel (whose impressive list of guests has included Greta Garbo, Agatha Christie and Alfred Hitchcock) has launched a new pet-friendly service to ensure pampered pooches experience the same impeccable service as their owners. A new in-room dining menu has been specially developed for pets with veterinary approval to ensure guests’ four-legged friends can enjoy delicious and nutritious food in the hotel’s iconic surroundings. From poached fillet of salmon to chopped fillet of beef, all meals are prepared without any seasoning or bones to ensure a healthy meal.
Sinem Güven and Şeker (image courtesy of Tamer Yilmaz)
Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah is committed to helping local animals, and recently partnered with an animal welfare charity to raise funds for a nearby animal shelter. The ‘‘My Tiny Love’’ project raised awareness about the number of abandoned and stray animals living in shelters, and generated crucial funds by photographing Turkish celebrities with their pets in glamorous locations around Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah. The pictures were taken by respected Turkish photographer Tamer Yilmaz.
Şükrü Çobanoğlu and Thor & Eva (iamge courtesy of Tamer Yilmaz)
The hotel itself is located in the heart of the vibrant Beyoglu district. The epitome of timeless elegance, its unique heritage combined with a modern touch symbolizes the cosmopolitan culture that Istanbul is renowned for. Overlooking the Golden Horn and the historical old city, and within walking distance to the Bosphorus, Galata Tower and the famous shopping street of Istiklal, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah boasts one of the best locations in Istanbul. The hotel was frequented by Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, and in 1981, his original room was restored and nationally recognised as being a unique historical feature, resulting in the hotel gaining status as Istanbul’s only Museum Hotel.
For more information, visit www.jumeirah.com .
By Harriet O'Grady
27th May 2015
If bling is what gets you going or if you are in search of instant thrills, then the Dordogne and the Lot departments in South West France are not for you. But, if you enjoy the finer things in life such as history, good food, fine wines, or simply countryside, rivers and landscapes that leave you with a sense of wonder, then this is, indeed, the place to go.
This is, after all, a part of France steeped in the most romantic of French and English medieval history. The Dordogne was part of the land of the beautiful Eleanor of Aquitaine, patron of the arts, courtly love and the troubadours; Queen of France by her first marriage, then Queen of England, bringing with her the land of Aquitaine to the English Crown for over 200 years. She was also mother of the tall, blond, handsome and legendary Richard the Lionheart, great grandson of William the Conqueror, who was so sure of his invincibility that he rode unprotected within striking distance of the French.
This is a wooded land of starlit skies, gentle hills, vales and valleys, limestone cliffs, rivers, gorges and ornamental grottos, to name but the famous Lascaux. It is known for its truffles, wines, walnuts, lamb and, of course, foie gras. The wisteria and lilacs are in full bloom, and the grass and leaves are bright green from new spring growth when my companions and I gather for a Relais & Chateaux Route du Bonheur trip with stays in three well established hotels: Le Vieux Logis, Le Château de Mercues and Château de la Treyne.
BMW, the official sponsors of Relais & Chateaux, have provided us with two cars, an open top 650i Cabrio and an X5M 50d. I have driven across the Massif Central, a spectacular drive in itself, through unspoilt countryside to arrive, in the early evening, at our first hotel, Le Vieux Logis, a 4 star hotel with a 1 star Michelin restaurant, set in the village of Tremolat, with its large meander in the river Dordogne. Henry Miller came to Le Vieux Logis for one night but ended up staying for several weeks. He was so struck by the beauty of this exquisite region that he wrote in The Colossus of Maroussi that “France may one day exist no more, but the Dordogne will live on just as dreams live on and nourish the souls of men.”
Originally a priory and then a large 17th Century farmhouse, the grounds have been turned into the loveliest French-style garden by the landscape architect, Laure Quonian. Estelle Arnoult, the Directrice, welcomes guests with the famous warmth of the people of this area. It is the type of hotel where one immediately feels at home, with large comfortable sofas, armchairs and plenty of prints on the walls. Chef Vincent Arnoult, who obtained the title of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2007, specialises in tasty seasonal dishes using the best local produce. We sit down to a very good dinner in what used to be a large tobacco drying barn. It is the season of asparagus. We have lamb from the Quercy valued for its aromatic flavour, strawberries as well as fine wines from the area.
The next morning, we are off in the warm spring sunshine through pastoral countryside following the Dordogne river to Beynac, a medieval town built in local pale yellow sandstone with pitched roofs that winds its way up to the large 12th Century fortified castle of Beynac which was overtaken by Richard the Lionheart. Later in the afternoon, we take a boat trip on the Dordogne from La Roque-Gageac. By now perfectly relaxed, we dream and drift along this wide black river bordered by bucolic banks where trees and grass gently meet the water. Everywhere we look there seems to be a castle. Finally, we visit the medieval village of Domme and its spectacular view of the Dordogne river.
Our second night is spent at the imposing Château de Mercues, a four star hotel. The château sits atop a ridge 100 metres above the river Lot. In the past, it had been the summer residence of the Bishops of Cahors. In 1944, it became an hotel. General de Gaulle himself stayed here in 1951. He wrote: “From the Château de Mercues, you can feel the flow of history coming up to meet you.”
The Château has been owned since the 1980s by the Vigouroux family. In the 1970s, Mr. Vigouroux’s father reintroduced the Malbec grape from the Argentine to his nearby domaine at Haute Serre. This area around Cahors had been an important wine-growing area, even more important than that of Bordeaux, until the pest known as philoxera wiped out the vineyards in the 19th Century. Today, Cahors wines are in the top ten appellations in France. When Mr. Vigouroux bought the Château, he built an immense “cave” in the cellars which produces over 200,000 bottles of wine. His son now carries on the family tradition with the same passion as his father.
We are welcomed to the hotel by the 34 year old general manager, Yann Potet. It is impossible to meet a more charming or helpful person. Not least is the brilliant 32 year old chef, Julien Poisot, who cooked us a memorable meal based on the best local produce accompanied, of course, by Mr. Vigouroux’s wines from Mercues and Haute Serre.
The next morning after a good night’s sleep and what can only be described as the most delicious and abundant breakfast, we leave the hotel for a visit to Cahors. This is a French town as one likes them, authentic and without pretence, with a twice weekly market and good local shops. One shouldn’t miss a sight of the Pont Valentre, a perfectly preserved medieval bridge. We then drive to Saint Cirq la Popie, a village nestling within the side of a white limestone cliff overlooking the Lot. Andre Breton, the father of surrealism, lived here. A community of artists gathered round him and, to this day, this little village remains an artistic centre.
There are some hotels which touch your soul. The 17th century Château de la Treyne is one of them. The setting is magical with its utterly romantic terrace set above the Dordogne. To sit here, at cocktail hour, watching the sunset and the wide river flowing peacefully below can only be described as one of those special moments in time. Dinner in the Louis XIII dining room is a must. Not only is the setting authentic, but the meal, prepared by 1 Michelin star chef Stephane Andrieux, is a reminder that France is still at the top of its gastronomic tradition.
Philippe and Stephanie Gombert own the hotel. Stephanie has that rare ability to make each guest feel special and at home. Her taste is impeccable. This is reflected from the differently themed bedrooms, which are of the highest standard of comfort, to the decor of the Château as a whole.
This is a perfect base from which to visit the famous Gouffre de Padirac , a 103m deep chasm with a subterranean river that can be negotiated by punt; the beautiful medieval town of Sarlat which was restored thanks to the efforts of Andre Malraux, one of France’s most eminent Ministers of Culture; the pilgrim site of Rocamadour and its black virgin on the road to Santiago de Compostela; as well as the magnificent Jardins d’Eyrignac, a vast private garden noted for its perspectives of architecturally shaped box, yew and hornbeam.
Whatever you do, come to this lovely land at least once in your lifetime!
For further information, please visit www.relaischateaux.com .
By Hannah Norman
21st April 2015
I’m staring out across a calm sapphire sea, barely distinguishable from the sky, with a glass of something sweet, syrupy and strawberry-flavoured in my hand. The sun is blazing and all I can hear is the gentle sound of the waves lapping at the shore. This could be the Caribbean. This could even be the Maldives. But it’s not – it’s nowhere near. I’m actually just five hours away from London. Welcome to Soma Bay , a peninsular in eastern Egypt that dips invitingly into the crystal-clear Red Sea.
This serene – and surprisingly quiet – finger of land has been turned into a postcard-picture resort, which has already been bought into by several big hotel chains, the most majestic of the current crop being the Kempinski . Morocco is frequently touted as the place to escape to for a long weekend, but with the Kempinski’s reception styled much like a souk bar, with decorative oil lamps and enormous sprays of flowers (and did I mention the glorious weather?), I would implore you to travel to Morocco’s continental cousin here instead. My room afforded me views across the enchantingly lit lazy river to the sea and mountains beyond, and a cosy bed (so big I could have got lost in it) with huge cloud-like pillows ensured the best nights’ sleep I’ve had in ages, nodding off to the sound of the sea little more than mere metres away. Bliss!
By day, it’s very tempting to retreat to one of the sumptuous loungers by the pool and just do absolutely nothing but luxuriate in the sun. With obliging waiters on hand to attend to your every whim, gastronomic or otherwise (curry by the pool, anyone? Yes, really!), it seems almost expected that you’ll want to indulge in a spot of laziness. However, adventure beckons and this is certainly the place for doing that. For golfers (and beginners), the Gary Player-designed Challenge and Championship courses allow for some truly breath-taking holes, with fantastic panoramas across the Bay and spectacular sea views whichever way you care to look.
Soma Bay is also the world’s premium destination for kite-surfing, and, therefore unsurprisingly, the world kite-surfing championships are held here every year. The guys at the Kite House claim they can turn you into a surfer with just 5 days tuition, and whilst our morning on the beach was a huge amount of fun, it was more inspiring to watch the couple of seeming pros who were out taking on the calm, performing clever leaps and tricks that made us disproportionately jealous.
However, for a more relaxing adventure and for a real highlight of your holiday, I completely recommend snorkelling in the Red Sea. Soma Bay’s house reef provides an amazing opportunity to come within inches of gorgeously coloured fish and spectacular coral. A truly serene, slightly surreal experience, this was a perfect way to spend a morning, blocking out noise and stress to appreciate the beauty of the Bay at its most staggeringly visceral.
All this adventure, however, is hungry work, and we were completely spoiled for choice when it came to gourmet. My personal favourite, however, has to be Bamboo , located at the Kempinski. Executive Chef Mehmet Koyuncu and his team served the smoothest butter chicken curry, and the most delicious vegetable sushi (yes, such a thing evidently does exist!). Baked ice-cream for dessert, washed down with fine Egyptian wine, was surely the perfect end to a lovely evening.
Soma Bay is a truly beautiful part of the world, and the perfect place to come to escape from it all. The combination of sun and sea (and Spa !) was unbelievably reviving, and we were already looking up flights to come back before we’d even left for the airport to go home. But every paradise on earth has its downsides. The internet here is ridiculously elusive, but short of running around waving your phone in the air to try to get some sort of Wi-Fi signal, the best thing to do is to treat this as a real escape – from work, from worry, and from the weather back home. Switch off and do nothing, or get out and do everything. Either way, this is entirely restorative – and it only means taking a couple of days out of the office (although, of course, a week may be more in order). Your frazzled, stressed self will thank you for it.
Getting There
Seven nights staying in a Lagoon View Room at the 5* Kempinski Hotel in Soma Bay on a Bed & Breakfast basis is from £635 per person. Upgrade to Half Board for an extra £145 per person. Prices include return flights from London Gatwick, airport tax, 20kg baggage per person, private transfers and airport meet & greet service. Prices are subject to availability and may change without notice. Call 020 3384 0030, email [email protected]
or see www.holiday-designers.com for more details.
Kempinski Christmas & New Year Package
Prices start from £68pp per night and are subject to 24.32% taxes and service charge. Offer valid for stays from 18th to 31st December 2015 for stay dates up to 10/01/2016 (minimum stay 7 nights)
Rate includes:
By The Lex Chapter
20th April 2015
As I stepped out onto the cobbled streets and looked up at the terracotta tiled rooftops against the vivid blue skies, I just knew two days here wasn’t going to be enough. The reason? Despite the city of Florence being a world heritage site, it is as busy and vibrant now as it was when it was the beating heart of the Renaissance. There’s so much to do here that planning your itinerary can seem overwhelming, so my advice would be to concentrate on key sights and indulge in some lazy lunches. If the three hour queue for the Uffizi gets the better of you, scold yourself for not pre-booking entrance tickets….and then use it as an excuse to come back again.
Michelangelo’s David
Michelangelo’s 14ft Renaissance masterpiece, David, was created from an enormous block of white marble which had previously been rejected by two other sculptors. They claimed it had too many imperfections so it lay neglected outside for 25 years before a young Michelangelo took it on as a commission for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Michelangelo worked on the commission in secret between 1501 and 1504. Preferring to work outside, he would sculpt in the pouring rain in order to perfect the last detail. Michelangelo was the first artist to capture the biblical figure David before his fight with Goliath. Michelangelo chose to show David at the apex of concentration and he now stands contrapposto in the Galleria dell’Accademia under custom-built sky light. Be sure to get here early to beat the crowds and groups of chattering school children.
Via Bettino Ricasoli, 58/66, 50122
Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Although a little tricky to find the inconspicuous door, once you enter inside you’ll discover the longest established pharmacy in the world. It was set up in 1200s by Dominican Friars desperate to find a lotion or potion to alleviate or even cure the Black Plague. In the 1500s, Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella created what could be called the first celebrity fragrance when it was commissioned by a young Catherine de’ Medici to create a signature fragrance. ‘‘Acqua della Regina’’ caused a sensation amongst the court, with word spreading from Italy to France and England. Nowadays, Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella still creates bespoke, high-end colognes and fragrances. If your budget doesn’t stretch to a luxury perfume then you can always treat yourself to some beautiful scented soap.
Via della Scala, 16, 50123
Ponte Vecchio
This segmental arched wonder has been standing over the narrowest point on the Arno River since 1345. During Medieval times, the bridge was home to butchers and grocers who would clear their waste directly into the river. When Cosimo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, moved into Pitti Palace on the south side of the river, he decided he didn’t want to walk amongst the masses so built a one kilometre walkway that would link his home directly to his office. This sits on top of the original bridge and can be seen to this day. He also decided that silver and gold merchants would be more suitable businesses for the bridge, a tradition that remains to this day. My favourite time to visit this bridge is at twilight. Grab a spot to admire the sunset which makes the muted tones of Florence glow, providing the perfect photo opportunity.
Via Por Santa Maria / Via Guicciardini, 50125
Caffe Coquinarious
You’d be forgiven for thinking Caffe Coquinarious is another simple Tuscan restaurant but a quick glance around reveals that it is full of animated locals. Conveniently located one block away from the Piazza del Duomo, Caffe Coquinarious’ vaulted room provides a cool oasis from the intense heat and crowds. The stand out dishes include pear and pecorino ravioli and venison carpaccio. If you fancy something a little bit lighter, the salads here are generous and interesting, something not always easy to find in Italy. Caffe Coquinarious offers a wide selection of wine, including some produced by local vineyards that are not commonly known.
Via delle’ Oche, 11R, 50144
Basilica di Santa Maria Del Fiore, Duomo
Basilica di Santa Maria Del Fiore, or the Duomo, is arguably the most famous landmark in Florence. This grand structure has dominated the sky line for over 800 years. If you are fit and able, then it is well worth taking the trek to the top. Get up close and personal with the late 16th century frescos which depict ‘‘Giudizio Universale,’’ or ‘‘Last Judgement,’’ and peer through the tiny dome windows for a snapshot of this terracotta-roofed city. As you reach the top of the dome, you are forced to climb almost horizontally before clambering up a ladder. All your effort pays off when you step up onto the viewing platform and find yourself at the very top of Brunelleschi’s dome. Appreciate the light breeze that will cool you down, take a deep breath and absorb the most spectacular panoramic view of this medieval city.
Piazza del Duomo, Firenze
Gelateria La Passera
I’m pretty sure it’s a statutory requirement to try at least one portion of gelato whilst in Italy. This little gem is located on a backstreet in Oltarno district not too far from the Palazzo Pitti, and was somewhere I stumbled upon accidentally when trying negotiate the backstreets of Florence. This small establishment is easily identifiable by the small queue of locals snaking around the corner. The flavours are both creative and dynamic, and the pear sorbet was my ultimate favourite. Gelateria La Passera is also open until midnight so you can give in to your ice-cream cravings at any time of the day!
Gelataria Della Passera, Via Toscanella,15R, 50125, Florence
Gucci Museo
This museum isn’t just for fashion fans but for people who appreciate exquisite craftsmanship. Guccio Gucci was born in Florence and was inspired to start producing long-lasting, luxury travel wear when he was working at The Savoy in London. As his popularity grew, he expanded into ladies fashion and went on establish himself as a leading Italian fashion house. One of his particularly famous pieces is the ‘‘bamboo bag.’’ The original design had leather handles but due to a post-war material shortage, he adapted the original bag design. Gucci Museo is also home to a sleek bistro recommended for a delicious lunch and a world-class fashion bookshop.
Gucci Museo, Piazza della Signoria, 10, 50122, Florence
By Antonia Peck
27th March 2015
From restaurants to museums, we discover where the founders of private family club Maggie & Rose go to keep their little ones entertained (as well as the best places for ‘‘date’’ night!)
Best Restaurants For Families
Maggie: We both love the Soho House Group – The Electric and Shoreditch House especially. My kids love going to Shoreditch House and it’s cool for them to go east. You can swim in the morning, have breakfast and then wander around.
Rose: Soho House gives the times that it is okay to bring your children, so you know that you are okay! On occasion, I take my seven-year-old out for a nice lunch to Bellamy’s , which is where my husband goes on business meetings. She will have the Dover sole, which is such a treat and she has got to that stage where she can behave herself, have green beans and not spit them out on the floor!
Maggie: However, we usually don’t tend to take kids to restaurants, as I don’t actually believe that they want kids in there! When they are newborns, you can go pretty much anywhere. When you’ve got toddlers, you have to go to a chain like Byron Burger. Byron deals with kids really well. You go in and they’ve got activities and it is a little bit chaotic in there anyway, so you don’t feel like people are looking at you.
Best For Date Night
By Caroline Phillips
10th March 2015
Aqua Wellness Resort in Redonda Bay, Nicaragua, is for the zen seeker who wants marshmallows on the campfire after her yoga session. Or a pizza night after her papaya body scrub.
It comprises 28 tree houses set in a tropical forest chokka with cacti, iguanas and  howler monkeys – and overlooking an ooh-ah bay with sweeping beach, the Pacific and diving-for-fish pelicans. Not to mention the beautiful Giant’s Foot rock formation.
The tree houses are jungle chic with mahogany, Brazilian cherry and teak – think open-plan bedroom with wooden shower in the corner and a top-notch kitchen in the adjoining villa. Plus, there’s a private deck plunge pool too – though whether anyone ever uses one for anything aside from washing her feet is a question of metaphysical importance. (Eco warriors please note: the tree houses get eco-brownie points for being above the canopy of the rainforest – which means they don’t interfere with the delicate environmental system).
The beachside restaurant serves top nosh – all delivered by super-friendly waiting staff. They offer organic greens and catch-of-the-day steamed in coconut milk. Or zero-size-me green papaya salad with a glass of fresh-squeezed tamarind or passion fruit juice. (If you want to forget all that wellness blah, you can feast on steak and egg burrito). You’ll find the thirty-something crowd here – families, couples and the occasional yoga bunny – mostly Americans and Canadians.
What else? It’s a deliciously unplugged experience of no TVs and dodgy Wi-Fi (after all, it is a remote area). There’s kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling, and if you want time away from the noonday sun, take the chocolate-making class and get creative with roasted cacao beans, which you peel then blend, sprinkling afterwards with chilli, sesame or cashew. Yum.
You can do your downward dogs on an ocean-view wooden yoga platform. But there are so many steps everywhere that you’ll have done a workout even before you get there (luckily, they give you a mobile phone if you want to call reception). The yoga platform is so windy your mat flies away – but it’s worth it for the bird’s eye view of the demerara-sugar beach and emerald coast with jade water.
As for the yogis, they’re peripatetic teachers – from Acro to Ashtanga ones. Learning the Acro (as in ‘acrobatic’) yoga poses must surely allow you to run away to join the Cirque du Soleil.
There’s also a small spa (two rooms) which deals in splendiferous views, cacao exfoliation and Mombacho massage (which apparently mimics the rhythms of the volcano). Try the rejuvenating facial – it involves some plastic cupping and does what it says on the tin.  If you’re lucky, you’ll get a therapist charmingly called ‘Darling.’
Peak experience? A full moon with a turtle burying her eggs on the beach, scattering sand with her flappers in the process. Who could beat that? Certainly go there to get away from the hurly burly of life in the fastest lane.
Journey Latin America specialise in tailor-made holidays to Central & South America, including Nicaragua. A 7 night stay in Aqua Wellness Spa Resort costs £1930pp based on two people sharing, including return transfers from the airport and international flights with United Airlines (who offer three daily non-stop services from London Heathrow to its hub at Houston/George Bush Intercontinental Airport, with onward connections to Managua, Nicaragua, and over 300 other destinations across the Americas).
Tel – +44 (0) 208 600 1881
By Caroline Phillips
5th March 2015
It’s an earthly paradise. Mt Etna fumes theatrically behind, red molten lava slipping dramatically down its slopes, and the Ionian sea sparkles in front. Welcome to Monaci delle Terre Nere – the boutique hotel that’s pulling all the awards.
The gods were smiling the day Guido Coffa (an erstwhile automotive engineer) fell in love with this 19th century putty-pink aristocratic villa – a piano nobile turned winery then organic farm. It’s now a small and discreet hideaway – 19 bedrooms/suites, some dotted on the estate – that’s set in a 40-acre private organic property that’s being planted with enough trees to save the planet and make chef Clelio Mocerino’s wizard jams (from mandarin groves, vineyards and fig trees on volcanic land tended by the Saint Ana monks for centuries, and suffused with their special energy).
Guido’s girlfriend, Ada Calabrese, has created achingly stylish but comfortable, rustic-meets-cool-contemporary interiors with squishy B&B Italia sofas, and king-size and floating beds against walls of blackest volcanic rock and soaring wood-beamed ceilings. The cavernous reception houses the original antique ‘palmento’ press formerly used for crushing grapes and the old cistern where once they washed the wine barrels. It doesn’t take much snooping to find other eccentric artworks and antiques.
Although it’s hard to choose between a spectacular garden, Mediterranean or Mt Etna view, bag the romantic Suite Amabile to overlook the crater (and for a free-standing Jacuzzi by the bed).  If you want quirky, book the Suite Dependance Sontuoso – it’s approached up lava stone stairs – a small palmento with the bed tucked into the original rock structure.
As for the food, for breakfast imagine a full buffet served in the ancient wine press or outside, on the sea-view terrace, under pine trees and with homemade cakes, bread and jams plus fresher–than-freshly squeezed juices. At dinner, on the terrace by the old stone water well, the unfussy Sicilian family cuisine puts the ‘oh’ into slow – think sun-ripened tomatoes and zucchini plus still-flapping fish with zero miles, cooked slowly and eaten leisurely . On the estate, they  grow over 100 different types of fruit, all their own veggies, herbs and life itself. Plus they keep their own chickens.
As for eco credentials, it gets the thumbs-up too: over 50% of the hotel’s energy comes from sustainable forests and the sun.  But there is also Wi-Fi and air-conditioning; not always a given in Sicily.
When it comes to entertainment, there’s an outdoor bar and an infinity pool for lazy laps, yoga on the lawn, cinema under the stars (deliciously, the rooms are without televisions) and a library – or billiards to be played at the Victorian table. Otherwise, Guido is on hand to point guests to wine tastings at local vineyards, trips to the nearby sandy beaches, or even a tour of Mt Etna by mule. That much said, it’s hard to pull yourself away from lolling in a lounger overlooking nectarine groves….but worth it just to find yourself a day bed under a palm tree.  Full marks and more for soul. The only hiccup? Those lava paths kill the Laboutins.
By Roz Kempner
26th February 2015
The grandiose Badrutt’s Palace Hotel has to be the Grande Dame of the Swiss mountains.  With pride of place by the lake, the interior is as impressive as the exterior.  Expensive cars, including the hotel’s Rolls Royce, adorn the forecourt.
Within, the stately Grand Hall has dark wood panelling and furniture reminiscent of the 50s.  The vast dining room even has a harpist playing during breakfast, and the hotel retains an element of an era gone by.  It is indeed the most polished of hotels. Staff are of the “old school,” immaculately uniformed and truly professional.
The bedrooms are large, and most have balconies overlooking the lake. The bathrooms are luxurious, and the hot water bottles are a charming touch.  The clientele is chic and glamourous, with many flying in by private jet. By no means are they all there to ski. Many come for polo, horse-racing on ice , parties, good food, shopping, or simply to walk in the mountains. An added draw is the famous Kings Club, the nightclub within the Palace which, in the main, is packed with young, beautiful Italians.
The Spa is bliss, with the most wondrous swimming pool, a magical, steaming outdoor jacuzzi and several steam rooms and saunas.
The hotel has six restaurants, but my favourites are housed in the beautiful, ancient Chesa Veglia building opposite. There is a dignified Grill Room with a pianist, a buzzing Pizzeria, and mountain fare on the lower floor. All are excellent.
Up on the slopes, Mathis Restaurant is easy to reach by train or on skis. Resembling a space station from afar, it has enormous glass windows providing a panoramic view from inside.  The setting and the service are demure and efficient….but bring on the huge tins of caviar, stunning displays of fresh fish, the very best smoked salmon and the intoxicating aroma of truffles escaping from the mountain.
The latter are lavishly served on almost everything, from the flakiest pizza to tagliolini to melting cheese. Caviar is generously dolloped on blinis with glorious smoked salmon.  Home comfort dishes include Bollito Misto with loads of bone marrow, game with polenta, and a fabulous seared tuna with wasabi mash. All of this served with great aplomb.
Another favourite haunt on the mountain is the breathtaking Il Paradiso. The Members’ Club terrace is sumptuous, with the most glorious views, wooden decking, checked tablecloths and lots of sheepskin. Most dishes here are also smothered in truffles; however, there is a lot of cheese, and the fondue is superb.  Veal sausages, pasta and steaks are simpler but very high quality.
A frightfully smart establishment with a clubby atmosphere, frequented by frightfully smart regulars and residents of St Moritz.  What a glorious weekend!
25th February 2015
An intrepid journey into the core of Iceland, to discover the inner sense of adventure….
As we land on a white runway at Reykjavik Airport, the weather front is starting to draw in. This is clearly going to be a true adventure – or at the very least, similar to something we usually watch from the comfort of our homes when we sit down to the Bond movie Die Another Day. The landscapes on the screen at the briefing in the airport recall the iconic ice-chase driving scenes on the Jokulsarion Glacier Lagoon, the largest lagoon in Europe, which was the setting of the Ice Palace where Pierce Brosnan challenges his Korean counterpart. Lara Croft also springs to mind in her scenes in Tomb Raider, where she rides dogsleds across white plains in Iceland….then, Batman Begins; again, this glacier was used for the iconic training scenes with Liam Neeson.
I look around the room for some of our own heroes  – the group counts 3 women and 21 men, all from global media outlets, and to my delight, in the row behind I can spot our true British heroes. Ben Saunders sits beside Kenton Cool and Monty Halls , and they all smile cheerfully at the sight of cold dark waters, ice and snow.  Ben Saunders (the pioneering polar explorer and record-breaking long-distance skier, who has covered more than 6000km on foot in the polar regions since 2001, and has just accomplished the longest human-powered polar journey in history retracing Captain Scott’s ill-fated Terra Nova expedition ) is comparing techniques with Kenton Cool, who has summited Everest no less than eleven times and has scaled peaks in Alaska, France and India. Today, he is still the world’s leading high-altitude climber reaching his personal best each time, and has led Sir Ranulph Fiennes up both the North Face of the Eiger and the summit of Everest. His next venture will be heading up Everest again, as vice-president and adviser of the G200E Expedition to mark the bicentenary of the Gurkhas’ outstanding service and loyalty to the British Crown.
Monty Halls, sitting beside them, is leading this weekend’s group, and as a marine conservationist, global expedition leader and film-maker (having explored sunken cities and mysterious underwater caverns), his experience once again is unique to most mortals.  All in all, with these three incredible brand ambassadors for Land Rover , we can trust to go with the spirit of adventure.  The new Discovery Sport – our fourth hero – will for sure also be put through its paces, using all its defensive hardware.
Once outside the airport, we are met by a line-up of Land Rover Discoveries ready and waiting, seats heated and headlights on to lure us to their comfort. Sleet and snow are carried across the landscape in howling crosswinds. The sat navs on the cars’ iphone6 are set to a distant location off the grid, to the Ion Hotel .
Moving fast down the deep snow-covered lanes in the dark (it’s as dark as midnight at 5pm), we head into the hills as the low-slung clouds are closing in and the snow-drift is building up as we drive. The only reassurance now is the long trail of glowing rear lights ahead, as we drive into the snow-storm. We come to a halt as the front of the convoy reaches an obstacle and the snow starts building along the side of the cars.  Brave Land Rover crew appear from nowhere in the storm, to manage the crisis, and to reassure and redirect us back down.  Everyone performs an array of manoeuvers in a very tight space between the edge of the road and ice beyond, and the 27km hot-water pipeline that lines the road and reeks of sulphur as it takes hot water into the capital, drawn directly from the spring ahead in the Golden Circle.
The cars are in their absolute element here and the wheels enjoy the control and traction on this extreme surface, which is totally above and beyond the norm. We allow the Terrain Response System to engage and the car comes into its own as you let it loose in its ideal snow-playground. If only all Land Rover owners could have such an experience near their home to feel the total security and complete control in extreme conditions.  We reach Reykjavik again, and on the way back, pass many brave Defenders which have paved the way for our descent where possible, with their snow-plough accessories and snow tracks.
The programme for the evening and the day after is seamlessly adjusted, due to the redirection back to Reykjavik, and with no trouble at all, we begin the next day at Silfra dive site . This site is a fissure between two continents in Iceland’s National Park, which tops the charts as one of the top ten dive sites in the world for two good reasons. Firstly, for its location between a natural crack splitting North America from the Eurasian continents, and secondly, its underwater visibility promising the clearest and cleanest water on earth, at 2 to 4 degrees Celsius all year round.
Monty Halls here leads our expedition down this volcanic seam, and into its dark, icy waters, which have filtered through the porous underground lava for 30-100 years, until reaching this north end of the Thingvellir Lake, where we are. We are fully equipped in dry suits to be as comfortable as possible in these temperatures and if we need any refreshments, we are told to sip this exquisitely pure water – and it sure is the freshest-tasting water I have ever sipped while diving!
The dive puts us all on equal terms and Ben and Kenton join us, with Monty as our escort into the epochal waters, reassuring us that they can all work just as well at sea-level as at high altitudes. The visibility once we immerse is absolutely astounding and the colour blue unique to this space of natural raw beauty, where nothing lives other than your dreams.
Our schedule continues after the dive, and we follow a long route along hardcore, icy landscapes of black lava rock, to a very welcome stop at the Ion Hotel, which on clear nights enjoys the playful lights of the Aurora Borealis – the Northern Lights . This time around, we reach the luxury adventure hotel with more ease than the night before, and Ben and Kenton are set to take us on a snow hike after lunch up to the Ice Hut.
The hike, with snowshoes and again the Land Rovers within reach, is just a mere glimpse of what these pioneers go through on endless hikes of hundreds of days in barren, hostile, icy conditions, either dragging 200kg sledges in back-to-back white-outs on the Antartic ice, and in Kenton’s case at 5000 or 8000 metres above sea-level. Ambassadors to experiential adventures is an understatement, and the importance of their participation becomes ever more apparent and in synergy with this unique adventure weekend.
To round off the overall challenge of endurance and physical performance, we are indulged once again in the wonders of this geothermal region, and the Land Rover’s sat nav now leads us to the Blue Lagoon , a short drive from the 101 Hotel were we slept a full 10 hours in designer comfort, after all the exhilarations of the day before.  This oasis of geothermal water comes form 2000 metres below the surface, where fresh water and sea water combine at extreme temperatures. As it travels to the surface, it reaches a perfect 38 degrees Celsius, picking up beneficial silica, algae and minerals which colour it a unique shade of blue; a reflection created by the sun we are told, as if you pour the water into a cup, the water is white, as white as the snow and ice which covers the black lava rocks bordering the lagoon.
LAND ROVER ADVENTURE TRAVEL BY ABERCROMBIE & KENT – ICELAND EXPERIENCE
If you are a group of eight or more, Abercrombie & Kent can arrange special departures for you, as the scheduled trips are now sold out. But it is worth every exhilarating minute. Email [email protected]
for info and packages.
DAY 1: Drive along Iceland’s famous Ring Road to Thingvellir National Park, following the Sog River to your first hotel, the magnificent ION.
DAY 2: Take in Thingvellir and the Golden Circle, visiting the rift valley, the geysers and the famous Gulfoss waterfall. Spend the afternoon snow-mobiling on the Langjökull glacier.
DAY 3: Drive into the highlands of Kaldidalur, driving through majestic glaciers to the tumbling waterfalls of Barnafoss and Hraunfossar, to the powerful hot spring at Deildartunghver. Finish your evening in Reykavík, and stay at Hotel 101.
DAY 4: After a final chance to explore Reykjavík, you’ll be chauffeured to the airport for your flight home. Alternatively, you could extend your stay in the city or take a tour of the Blue Lagoon.
By Fiona Sanderson
25th February 2015
If you are lucky enough to see the Northern Lights in Iceland on a clear evening, it’s probably one of the most spectacular sights on earth.
If you are going to Iceland for the first time, like me, it’s well worth allowing Icelandair introduce you to this spectacle. They have just launched the Hekla Aurora, a northern lights themed plane (the iconic lights are painted onto the exterior), whilst delivering the ethereal and elusive magic of the Aurora Borealis to it passengers.
The Hekla Aurora plane flies trans-atlantically from London to destination cities in the US and Canada via a stopover of up to seven days (at no additional airfare) in Iceland, to take in the nature, culture and cuisine of the country.
I was on board for the new plane’s inaugural celebratory flight from Reykjavik International to the domestic airport, where we arrived to a fanfare welcome and light illumination of the city’s Hallgrímskirkja Church, as a prelude to the city’s annual Winter Lights Festival. It seemed that the whole country of over 320,000 had turned out to meet us.
Birta Líf Kristinsdóttir, a renowned Icelandic meteorologist and former Icelandair pilot, brought the science of Aurora Borealis alive by providing us with a talk on this natural phenomenon.
As part of our experience in Iceland, we took a private dip in the Secret Lagoon , a natural hot spring pool located about 800 metres from Icelandair Hotel Fludir. The temperature of the pool is 38°- 40° all year round and is surrounded by several geothermal spots, which erupt spontaneously at regular intervals. Apparently during wintertime, the Northern Lights can be seen above the secret lagoon, which makes it an even greater experience to sit in the hot pool and enjoy the colours dancing above. Sadly, it was too cloudy for us to see anything but a hot dip under the sky was quite surreal and certainly won’t be forgotten.
The following day, we headed to Gullfoss (or Golden Waterfall), which proved a spectacular example of the force and beauty of nature. Gullfoss is part of the Golden Circle, located in South Iceland on the Hvítá River, which is fed by Iceland´s second biggest glacier, the Langjökull. The water plummets down 32 metres into a rugged canyon, the walls of which reach up to 70 metres in height.  I’m told that if the sun’s out, shimmering rainbows can be seen over the falls.
However, one of the greatest natural attractions of Iceland, and part of the famous Golden Circle route, is The Great Geysir – although it has been dormant since 1916 when it suddenly ceased to spout. It has come to life only once, in 1935, and as quickly went back to sleep.  No sudden eruptions on our visit, though! The Great Geysir was once among the most notable geysers in the world, such as those in Yellowstone Park and New Zealand. Though The Great Geysir itself is now inactive, the area surrounding it is geothermically very active with many smaller hot springs. The attraction of the area is now Strokkur (The Churn), another geyser 100 metres south of The Great Geysir, which erupts at regular intervals every 10 minutes or so, and its white column of boiling water can reach as high as 30 metres.
A real highlight of the trip for me was lunch in the surreal surroundings of a greenhouse!  Iceland is dark and cold for much of the year, but tomatoes grow merrily under artificial light at Friðheimar . The environmentally-friendly greenhouses yield about one ton of produce per day.  Upon entering the greenhouse, you are hit with the fragrance of tomato plants, before you sit down to a feast of famous Friðheimar tomato soup with fresh-baked bread – and tomato plants all around. Don’t forget to try Bjork, a liqueur made from birch trees – delicious!
Later that day, we got to experience Iceland’s only horse park, Fákasel , home to the country’s unique breed of horse. The Icelandic horse is a hardy breed developed in Iceland.   The breed is still used for traditional farm work in Iceland, as well as for leisure, showing, and racing.  Fákasel Horse Park is Iceland’s leading tourist attraction for all things “Icelandic horse” and is one of the country’s best equine competition facilities. I found it all a little bizarre watching elves jump out from behind rocks and young, blonde maidens lying down to sleep beside their ponies.  This, I was later to learn, was based on Icelandic folklore and some still believe the Huldufólk (the elves) really exist. Apparently, local building projects are sometimes altered to prevent damaging the rocks where they are believed to live. According to these Icelandic folk beliefs, one should never throw stones because of the possibility of hitting the Huldufólk.
All this is hungry work, and I was looking forward to dinner at the widely-acclaimed brasserie style Kopar restaurant , which certainly didn’t disappoint. The food was absolutely delicious. The menu is full of local and sustainable Icelandic produce, and prides itself on being the only place in Reykjavik to serve Icelandic Rock Crab from the Hvalfjörður fjord.  The Kopar Restaurant also offers delicious salmon, redfish and blue ling.  I went for the full crab experience, and had crab cake, rock crab soup and snow crab salad all on one platter! My guests had the Icelandic fillet of lamb with crispy fat with mushrooms, port and lot of garlic, potato and bearnaise.  The perfect end to a great trip to Iceland, before I headed off across the Atlantic to New York as part of my stopover on Icelandair.  I will definitely be back and next time perhaps in the summer to experience the ‘‘midnight sun,’’ which effectively keeps shining for 24 hours a day!
Iceland Gourmet Specialities
By Caroline Phillips
17th February 2015
Morgan’s Rock really rocks. The Ecolodge is set on one of Nicaragua’s most gobsmackingly gorgeous and deserted, private beaches….a bay of sugar-fine sand and gently lapping Pacific waves. Gallop along the mile-long stretch of beach on horseback – “giddy up Pirata” – or saunter along it to watch sea turtles laying their eggs. The Ecolodge itself comprises 15 wood and thatched bungalows – so eco they’re enough to make anyone weep recycled tears of joy – with simple local furnishings, almond tree floors and the grooviest of upcycled copper taps and shower fittings. There’s no air-conditioning – just the freshest of sea breezes, plus fans and views to beat those in Adam and Eve’s back yard.
The whole place is set in an 4500-acre private estate of mahogany forests,  mango trees and bamboo – chokka with everything from howler monkeys to possums and herons. Plus there’s an awesome – and vertigo-inducing – walnut and nispero wood suspension bridge over a gorge, connecting the villas to the reception, restaurant and bar area.
The staff come wreathed with smiles and are super-attentive. The food is fresh, organic and local – with ceviche so good you’ll probably think about smuggling it home. There are enough activities on offer to make a guidebook creak – including deep-sea fishing, exploring the estate on two wheels, a kayaking trip down the mangrove estuary for tropical bird-spotting, and a jungle tour by torchlight.  (In the last, you get to spy mud crabs, tarantulas and skunks under a star-spangled sky).
Morgan Rock’s French owners also have a hacienda on the estate with a reforestation project – they plant fruit trees to hardwoods – and an organic dairy and shrimp farm.  Visit the dairy farm for a spot of agro-tourism and to re-confirm that milk doesn’t come from cartons – you get up at crack of dawn to milk the cows yourself, pick out the brownest eggs from under the butts of free range chicken, and then feast on your pickings for breakfast alongside authentic rice and refried beans with tortilla that you’ve been shown how to make yourself.  Or simply lie in your hammock watching the sunset, knowing that your holiday spend is helping sponsor six local schools. Barefoot luxury at its best.
Getting There
Journey Latin America specialise in tailor-made holidays to Central & South America, including Nicaragua. A 7 night stay in Morgan’s Rock Hacienda costs from £1,944 per person based on two people sharing, including transfers and international flights with United Airlines (who offer three daily non-stop services from London Heathrow to its hub at Houston/George Bush Intercontinental Airport, with onward connections to Managua, Nicaragua, and over 300 other destinations across the Americas).
Tel – +44 (0) 208 600 1881
By The Luxury Channel
4th February 2015
As India celebrates a 30% increase in tiger numbers, enjoy the finest safari experience at The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore….
With the news revealed by the latest tiger census that India now has a third more tigers than it did four years ago, comes all the more reason to stay at The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore.  Situated just ten minutes’ drive from Ranthambhore National Park, the hotel offers guests the opportunity to see Royal Bengal Tigers in their natural habitat.
India is home to around 70% (or 2,226) of the world’s tigers; approximately 60 of which inhabit Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan, making it the most densely populated tiger reserve in India.  Thanks to the dedicated efforts of the Park’s conservationists who closely monitor the behaviour patterns of their resident tigers, visitors to Ranthambhore stand a very good chance of witnessing these majestic animals in the wild.  The Oberoi Vanyavilas is located right in the Park, making it the perfect spot for a tiger sighting.  Accompanied by expert safari guides and botanists, guests will be guaranteed an enchanting and informative experience while exploring the territory of the tiger.  You can also even help to bathe the resort’s beloved elephants.
Starting the day with an exciting jungle safari, you can drive along rugged tracks, past fields of long grass and watering holes, experiencing the reserve’s diverse wildlife and the opportunity to see the majestic tiger in its natural environment.  After a day of adventure, you can enjoy romantic sunset views and champagne at the top of the observation tower (on that note, romantic dinners can also be arranged under the stars at special locations within the resort).
After a busy day in the jungle, guests can retire to their cool, triple-canopied luxury tents appointed with four-poster beds and stand-alone baths.  With private gardens protected by authentic Rajasthani mud walls and connected by lit pathways, the luxury tents provide the ultimate comfort whilst adhering to the subtleties of their natural surroundings.  The tents are embellished with frescoes, ornaments and upholstery that celebrate the existence of the tiger and its continued prominence in the jungles of Rajasthan.
A night in a luxury tent with private garden at The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore, starts from 44,500 INR (£478 approx), based on two people sharing.
By Rosalind Milani Gallieni
28th January 2015
It is at this time of year, when the schools are back on track and the slopes are less crowded and fresh New Year snow has finally laid its mantle, that it’s time to get some tranquility out of a long weekend in the mountains.
There is a new thrill in the village of La Thuile, in north west Italy. The village itself is full of local character: the church bells chime on the hour and the sound of rushing water from the icy blue River Dora, which runs through the village, is a constant reminder of the water coming from the glaciers high up on the summits. The parade of small shops that flank the gushing river sell local produce, home-grown (and strictly seasonal) vegetables, endless varieties of organic cheeses and plenty of shabby-chic interior accessories for the stylish Milanese apartments which only get used, at a stretch, for about four weeks per year. Two small banks seem to be able to handle the business of foreign currencies and local transactions, and many excellent restaurants are dotted all around the town. The houses, both new and old, are made of wood and stone, with uniform grey slate tiled roofs – thuiles – which reflect authentic local colour and respect the heritage of the place, unchanged for centuries.
La Thuile is part of the Espace San Bernardo ski area, with access to 286km of downhill skiing, with 156 individual pistes. In addition to the skiing in La Thuile itself, the appropriate ski Lift Pass will allow you to ski or snowboard in the other Espace San Bernardo ski resort of La Rosière over in France. Skiing and snowboarding is assured throughout the season, but the region is steeped in activities and experiences from cycling and golf to hiking and white water rafting, and further down the hill lie the restorative thermal baths in Pre-St. Didier, open all year round.
New luxury hotel group Nira Hotels & Resorts has recently opened a new hotel (its fifth), the Nira Montana, in La Thuile, in the heart of the Valle d’Aosta.  Set at 1440 metres, the picturesque hotel enjoys the views that surround this beautiful alpine basin, framed by the highest summits in Europe.  A true newcomer in both style and offering to La Thuile, Nira Montana is a city-style hotel meets cute ski resort.
Built in the style of the valley’s traditional houses, this well-appointed, 55-room luxury boutique hotel is constructed of wood and stone, and uses energy-saving systems.  It features an authentic Italian restaurant, serving the finest ingredients sourced from across the country, and the bar and restaurant are very much design-led, with floating light bulbs, steel chairs, and solid wood tables and floors. Down below, an extensive and well-edited wine cellar is prepped for local wine and food tastings.  The immense lounge area looks out to the snowy fields beyond, the low coffee tables are piled high with designer style books, and the rooms upstairs are furnished with Hästen beds. The international fashion élite come here from Turin, Milan and Geneva to share the comfort of this 5 star hotel, with its cow-hide sofas, cosy lighting and heartening fireplaces; every detail is considered to ensure an elegant après-ski experience with local aperitivi Valdostani.
A facility which will be as popular with guests as with local visitors is the extensive wellness spa, which includes an indoor pool with a view across the snow outside, plus a whirlpool, Vitarium and steam bath. Ideal for après-ski, there are the indispensible sauna, steam rooms, and six treatment rooms for the many interesting holistic massage techniques, from Swedish, sport and deep tissue to Shiatsu, Balinese, Intonga Amasatchi, Tibetan sound massage and more…and of course, to prep for the slopes, there is a fully equipped Technogym fitness centre.
Growing the collection even further, Nira Hotels & Resorts is opening another property – Nira Yana – on Pemba Island in Zanzibar in early 2015. The two hotels will join the group’s three existing properties: Shanti Maurice in Mauritius (2010), Nira Alpina in St. Moritz (2011) and Nira Caledonia in Edinburgh (2012).  MPS Puri, Chief Executive of Nira Hotels & Resorts, revealed he was “delighted to launch two new hotels under the Nira brand, bringing our portfolio to five. I’m confident that both properties will be great additions, providing our guests with more choice of where to enjoy the Nira experience.”
That experience can be enjoyed at Nira Montana all year round, as there is a great deal to do come winter or summer. However, don’t overlook Ristorante Lo Riondet in summer, on the way up to the Piccolo S. Bernardo, well-known for its rustic Aosta Valley cuisine of Alpine cheeses, local wines direct from the barrel, and home-made Genepy and other liquors.  In winter, make a plan to book at this buzzing, picture-perfect restaurant.  Accessible by day from the ski slopes, evening excursions offer much more memorable chalet dinners as arrival is strictly by snowcat and you return on skies by torchlight under the moon.
By The Luxury Channel
12th January 2015
Zambia’s Royal Livingstone Hotel, perched on the forested banks of the Zambezi River and just a few metres upstream from the mighty Victoria Falls, has created bespoke Water Retreat Experiences for health conscious luxury travellers looking for an alternative wellbeing break combined with lifelong memories.  With your own personal butler, you can experience sophistication and sheer opulence as well as the elegance and luxury of an earlier bygone era.
Water defines The Royal Livingstone.  You arrive at the 5* retreat by water taxi – the only hotel in Africa to offer this exclusive transfer, where the journey often includes a glimpse of wildlife such as hippopotamus. The sound of the Victoria Falls is always present during your stay, where you have access to your own private entrance to the Falls – one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
The New Water Retreat Experiences
o The Tips of the Falls:
• Full body exfoliation with red dune sand: Increases the blood circulation and purifies the skin
• Botanical clay wrap: Contains Kalahari clay to purify the skin.  Buchu is known for its medical purposes to detox the body and red bush extract acts as an antioxidant.
• Mist system massage to cool down: choose between Khoi San with Buchu to detox; Aromatic blend with spice and wood blends to relax; Tsamma Blend with Tsamma (Khoi san watermelon) to moisturise; Wild Honey: with wild honey to restore skin cells and repair sunburn.
o Experience the Ukuchina massage in one of the Cabanas along the banks of the Zambezi River:
• A lymph drainage treatment – perfect to fight water retention.
• Hot water compressed with lemon scent is used to drain the muscles and alleviate depression.
o A foot massage on the deck to support and rebalance the digestive tract.
Additionally, The Royal Livingstone gives guests the opportunity to enjoy more adventurous experiences, such as a River Safari or a Cheetah Interaction experience.
General Manager Emmanuelle Moneger revealed he is “extremely proud to introduce bespoke Water Retreat spa experiences for guests of the Royal Livingstone. We also invite our guests to reconnect with Mother Nature by exploring the Victoria Falls or swim in the Devil’s Pool at the edge of the Falls, discovering the endless rainbows and range of colours the waterfall produces and enjoy a refreshing shower of negative ions known to increase levels of serotonin, therefore helping to alleviate depression, relieve stress and boost daytime energy. Thanks to the unlimited complimentary entrance to the Victoria Falls, the hotel’s guests can enjoy a daily walk at the Falls and recharge their batteries in the most natural way.”
Contact
By Isabel Donnelly
7th January 2015
I decided to return on New Year’s Eve to the Victoria Jungfrau Grand Spa Hotel for their New Year package, which I last did eight years ago. My memories were of sheer elegance, 7 star service and outstanding facilities at this 224 room hotel, situated in picturesque Interlaken in the heart of central Switzerland.
Upon arrival, I was greeted by the incredibly efficient concierges, Dracken and Jose, whom I have known for many years. It is always a delight to arrive back here. Check-in was smooth and swift, and I was shown to a junior suite with a large double bed and sitting room area. There were plenty of wardrobes and the whole suite was tastefully decorated with all you would expect from a five star hotel.
On New Year’s Eve, a reception in the grand entrance – where general managers Urs and Yasmin Grim Cachemaille greeted guests – was followed by champagne, canopies and a black tie ball. The theme was The Great Gatsby, and the decorations were sublime. Beautifully displayed, the gastronomic delights included caviar, crayfish, salmon, foie gras and oysters. We had sole and veal with truffle, and dessert was a chocolate fountain with all kinds of fruit, crepes suzette, so many tarts and masses of cheeses. Midnight struck, frivolity ruled and then farmers appeared playing cow bells. All in all, a lovely evening executed brilliantly.
The next day, I hit the luxurious spa. After a much-needed massage, I went to the sauna and steam room, and then to the relaxation room where I could chill with views of the snowy Alps.  For the more energetic, you can go swimming in the indoor Roman pool, but I preferred the two Jacuzzis and the outside hydro pool, where I could look up at the majestic mountains and watch the moon come up. This was the life!
Later that evening, I went to watch a wonderful firework display across from the hotel in the park. The theme was 007 and the fireworks were done to the famous music from the films. Just magical. Alp horns performed, brass bands played and there were stalls selling glühwein and bratwurst. Bond aficionados visiting Interlaken can visit the Jungfraujoch – the top of Europe – made famous by the legendary spy, and also The Schilthorn for the James Bond trail and some wonderful skiing.  You can also add to the whole 007 experience with a helicopter flight over the Alps to see the glaciers at Lauterbrunnen, or by going paragliding.
So, the big question – has the hotel changed eight years on? They continue to upgrade twenty bedrooms and suites a year, they are fastidious about standards, and service remains of the highest quality.  Will I return? Yes, definitely! I left feeling wonderfully relaxed and energised.  The ambiance and sheer luxury of the hotel makes it the perfect place to indulge oneself, and I left feeling totally ready for the year ahead.  Bring it on!
Further Information
The Victoria Jungfrau Hotel offers many packages – go to www.Victoria-Jungfrau.ch for more details.  Staying in mid-January in a top-end suite for three nights will cost 12,619.20 Swiss francs. The package includes a delicious breakfast buffet with a wide choice of warm and cold dishes, one bottle of Laurent Perrier Champagne (or alternatively, one carafe of non-alcoholic applesecco) and use of the Victoria-Jungfrau Spa. Free cancellation possible (until 5 days before arrival). Zurich Airport is 2 hours by car and rail, and Bern airport is 1 hour by car and rail.
By The Luxury Channel
17th December 2014
Christmas is the perfect time to visit Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire, Scotland – just an hour’s drive from Edinburgh. A haven of luxury British heritage set in 850 acres of beautiful countryside, the world-famous, 5 star hotel has been transformed into a magical winter wonderland. From Christmas Day festivities to a traditional Boxing Day Ceilidh (not to mention a custom-built ice rink!), it will provide a joyful mix of relaxation and festive indulgence, with roaring log fires surrounded by beautifully decorated Christmas trees.
Christmas Cracker Break
From 24th – 26th December, guests booking this three night package will receive a complimentary night on either 23rd or 27th December. Gleneagles has planned an array of exciting activities, including an exquisite Christmas Day banquet, the hotel’s private ice rink, lively Christmas carols, food and drink tastings, festive fireworks and a traditional Boxing Day Ceilidh to crown this year’s events. For wine lovers, a behind-the-scenes tour of the Gleneagles wine cellar is an opportunity not to be missed. Led by an expert sommelier, guests will be guided through the hotel’s extensive collection, sampling delicious vintages on the way.
• Prices start from £3,495 per room, based on 2 sharing a Sovereign Room
Hogmanay Heroics
Hogmanay (New Year) is the highlight of many people’s calendar and at Gleneagles, the event is an unashamedly grand affair with a sumptuous black tie dinner, live music, pipes and drums. The special Hogmanay Heroics package runs from 30th December to 1st January, where guests will be eased gently into 2015 with a lazy breakfast before three exciting days of activities and a spectacular fireworks display to celebrate the arrival of the New Year in style.
• Prices start from £4,255 per room for a 3 night stay based on 2 sharing a Sovereign Room
Halfway Holiday
For those who fancy a quiet retreat between Christmas and New Year (27th – 28th December), there is plenty to see and do at Gleneagles. Foodies will delight in the festive tasting sessions, and the multi award-winning Spa by ESPA is the perfect place to pamper yourself before the whirlwind of New Year. Alternatively, explore the array of exhilarating outdoor activities including off-road driving, clay pigeon shooting, horse-riding and falconry, or take the opportunity to play on three of the finest 18-hole championship golf courses in Scotland.
• Special rate of £580 per room per night based on 2 sharing a Sovereign Room
Contact
By Bella Chalmer
16th December 2014
November is a strange month. Not close enough to indulge in Christmas celebrations and yet the late summer evenings are a faint memory. In need of something to look forward to before the New Year, I decided to book a night at the renowned, 5 star boutique hotel – Chewton Glen.  A luxury country house hotel and spa set in 130 acres of Hampshire countryside on the edge of the New Forest, Chewton Glen is also just a few minutes’ walk from the sea.
A lot has been said about this award-winning hotel – I’ve read it’s the perfect setting for a romantic escape and, more recently, it has become increasingly popular with families. I decided to see what it would be like if I took one of my friends for a girly weekend away.  In under two hours, we were in the middle of the New Forest, away from the grey skies and traffic in the city. From the moment we stepped inside, I knew we were somewhere special. The fire was lit, the grand piano was playing and guests were enjoying Bloody Marys whilst reading the Sunday papers – perfection!
There is so much on offer at Chewton Glen. Set within its beautiful acres of land is a golf course, a croquet lawn, tennis courts and a great selection of walking and mountain biking trails. Clay pigeon shooting and falconry can also be easily arranged.  But the long list of facilities doesn’t take away the fact that this place is more of a boutique home than a hotel.
We checked into a newly refurbished suite with two interlinking bedrooms.  Wow, what a dreamy room – spacious and stylish with a sort of “Hamptons” feel about it. Within a few moments, we were in our robes and off to the Spa. The decadent swimming pool and impressive hydrotherapy pool is a calm oasis – exactly what I needed and better than I had imagined. The spa menu is designed using Linda Meredith and ILA products, offering a wide range of treatments from rehydrating oxygen facials to holistic body therapies. I was booked in for a personalised facial, where the therapist discussed my lifestyle and habits before choosing what specific products to use.
The Linda Meredith skincare range has been developed to deal with skin problems and not skin types, with all of the products working to increase hydration levels and helping to slow down the ageing process. My facial focused on the fine lines around the eyes, general dehydration and the congestion around the T-zone area. After my 60 minutes of pampering, the results were instantly noticeable – my skin looked relaxed and rejuvenated.  Not surprisingly, the Spa at Chewton was voted in the Top 10 of UK Hotel Spas at the Conde Nast Traveller Magazine Reader Spa Awards 2014.
All too soon, our dinner reservation in the hotel’s Vertier restaurant had crept upon us so after a quick aperitif at the Red Bar, we sat in the restaurant ready for dinner. The room was surprisingly large and modern in decor with an impressive wine collection and private dining area. We spoiled ourselves with oysters and champagne, and freshly-caught scallops followed by delicious salmon with hollandaise for main course. The focus on seasonal ingredients and creative cooking was obvious. The restaurant lived up to its wonderful reputation – spectacular food with great service (especially the sommelier).
Soon enough, my super-king bed was calling – I was a lot more tired than I realised. Was it the effects of the relaxing spa, the wine during supper or the country air? Either way, I had the best night’s sleep I’d had all year at Chewton Glen.
Contact
By The Luxury Channel
10th December 2014
The Luxury Channel is delighted to announce our new partnership with Tim Best Direct .  Dedicated conservationist Tim Best is a well-known and respected personality in the travel world, who has been organising safaris and holidays for families, honeymooners and small private parties of friends for more than two decades.  Having sold his business a few years ago, he now arranges travel worldwide on a personal basis, bringing into play his unparalleled network of top field operators, and owners of camps and lodges, to make the best arrangements for each individual itinerary.  The below is a taster of the type of itinerary Tim can offer.
The Born Free Safari – Kenya
A 12 Day Itinerary:
By Hannah Norman
18th November 2014
When was the last time you went to Geneva, and more to the point, why were you there?  Business?  To head up to the mountains to ski?  Or as a stopover before departing off elsewhere?  Such a  shame, as this city has so much to offer.
Courtesy of a total re-brand by Tourism Genève , we were invited to the Swiss city for the launch of The Girls’ Guide To Geneva .  The brainchild of Tourism Genève’s PR Manager Pascal Buchs, this package has been put together to encourage more weekend breaks in a city that gets its fair share of travellers during the week, but is essentially the domain of locals come Friday.  Accordingly, Tourism Genève has undertaken the (somewhat unenviable) task of rebranding the city as the place for girls to go for a long weekend away.  They’ve teamed up with several of the city’s leading hotels, as well as Geneva’s best-known female influencers, to create packages that mean you and your girls get to holiday in style for much less than you would do otherwise, but with insider’s tips as to what to do and where to go.  So essentially, this is completely win-win.
Geneva really is a city to suit all tastes.  For the ultra girly, you can enjoy massages , have your nails done, and make yourself at home in the city’s chic-est shops (we did!).  Everyone from Burberry to Zenith sells here, not to mention backstreet boutique Septieme Etage – worth seeking out for red carpet glam guaranteed!
For culture vultures, the beguiling beauty of the Old Town, not to mention what has been dubbed the Longest Bench In The World (I’m dubious as to whether 180 boards attached together really constitutes one bench, however!), but it is the perfect destination to while away the hours whilst soaking up the history, the serenity and the coffee from the many cosy cafes.
If you’d rather go in search of something more traditional, Geneva’s world-famous Jet d’Eau is definitely worth seeing, and the best way is by boat.  Beautifully scenic, and also a brilliant way of getting from A to B, the lake boasts impossibly clear water, with umpteen opportunities for making your friends jealous with your social media posts.  Oh, and stock up at chocolatier Auer before you sit back and set off across the water – well, when in Switzerland!
As day gives way to night, the city comes alive, and there are several establishments worth investigating.  From the slightly quirky ( Barbershop Bar ) to “the best place to hunt for hot men” (that’s a direct quote from the Guide – and Brasserie Halles de L’Isle ), to the achingly hip (nightclub Silencio ), there is a bar or club to suit all tastes.  For those who prefer dining to drinking, we recommend Café des Bains (their curry is delicious).  Incidentally, they have the coolest clock inside, which is definitely worth a mention!  But a word to the wise – whilst Geneva is ridiculously easy to navigate, just make sure you have your Guide when you go out, as the handy maps within make it a lot easier to work out where everything is, particularly after a late night out!  On that note, another perk of purchasing the Guide means you also get a transport card , allowing for free rides for the duration of your trip.  Perfect – as long as you remember not to leave it in the hotel!
Of course, we all love a bargain, and the Guide’s handy discounts are definitely a bonus. With discount meals and free gifts in certain shops, the Guide really is a one-stop-shop and all you could possibly hope for on a “girls’ retreat.”
Recently voted Europe’s Leading City Break Destination at the World Travel Awards, there is a reason why Geneva is becoming the place to go.  So get your girls together, grab your passport and experience this city in all its many guises – this really is a weekend away you won’t forget.
Useful Information
By Antonia Peck
5th November 2014
Antonia Peck escapes to the Lake District to try a luxurious massage room and spa set high in the tree canopy, and discovers a romantic getaway with a difference….
With fur-lined wellington boots on and hoods up, guests walk happily across to The Gilpin Hotel & Lake House (part of the Relais & Châteaux group but owned by the Cunliffe family since 1919).  The Gilpin provides the most serene, bucolic weekend retreat, with a deserved reputation for homely hospitality and luxury detailing. There are six characterful suites at the Lake House, each interior designed in a palette of earthy, country colours with sumptuous big beds and modern fixtures and fittings. The rest of the Lake House invites you to enjoy its furnishings as if it were your own ancestral home. Guests (a maximum of 12 at any one time) can take afternoon tea in front of the roaring fire, with an ear-marked book and soft blanket after a long walk in the beautiful surrounding countryside. It’s a homely vibe that is personified by the dedicated approach of Zoe Cunliffe, whose passion for the hotel comes across in her commitment to making guests feel as happy, relaxed and as welcome as possible.
Guests choose The Gilpin Lake House over the hotel for its more intimate vibe, making it perfect for couples in need of relaxation and escapism. Accordingly, Zoe describes how “The Lake House is the perfect decompression chamber for couples needing some precious time together.” It is for this reason that the spa offering has been developed further. The Lake House previously offered guests a small indoor pool and sauna with an open-air hot tub and in-room spa treatments. This was perfectly lovely, but the Lake House has now become an even more desirable destination for those in need of some tender love and care with its new Jetty Spa Trail. The new spa has a Swedish-style treatment room built to blend into the environment by being raised three metres into the tree canopy, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the lake and (fake) fur rugs languishing over the massage tables.
The sensory experience begins with an aromatherapy consultation in which a bespoke blend is created depending on your ailments. Guests are then invited to enjoy a private swim in the pool followed by a relaxing salt snug with an iced fruit frappe and reviving salt scrub shower. From here, guests go through the woods to the treatment room in the tree canopy to enjoy a massage. Choose from aromatherapy, “al fresco” or Lava Shell massage. Treatments are followed by cream tea in the boathouse and a little champagne in the open air Japanese Ofura hot tub. It’s a spoiling and unique experience to have a spa treatment that brings you so incredibly close to nature, and it has a very grounding effect. City dwellers used to spa treatments where the surroundings amount to a damp ceiling and spotlights will really revel in this spa trail. Whatever the British weather brings, this is a sensory spa journey that has a deep impact.
The Jetty Spa Trail is exclusive to guests staying at The Gilpin Lake House and costs £300 per couple. The Gilpin Lake House offers suites from £485 per night including dinner, bed and breakfast, and complimentary transfers to and from The Gilpin Hotel for dinner (based on two people sharing).
The Gilpin Lake House is two miles from Lake Windermere and a short distance from Oxenholme Train Station, with regular trains running from Euston Train Station.
Additional Information
The Suites: Named after the six Cunliffe sisters – Harriet, Gertie, Adgie, Beatrice, Maude and Ethel.
Award-Winning Food: Breakfast and Afternoon Tea are served at The Lake House.  For dinner and lunch, a private chauffeur takes Lake House guests to dine at the main hotel to enjoy a five-course meal of locally sourced, fresh and mainly organic produce.  Alternatively, guests can commission head chef Daniel Grigg to create a bespoke dining menu for a party of up to 25 guests.  Guests can also browse a collection of over 200 wines in the wine cellar.
Places To Visit: Dalton Castle, Holker Hall, Hill Top Near Sawrey, Hawkshead (the home of Beatrix Potter) and Wordsworth House, Cockermouth.
Activities: The Gilpin team can help organise a round of golf with the Gilpin Golf School, pony-trekking or horse-riding, mountain biking, fishing and even a Food Safari with a champion of the Slow Food movement – Annette Gibbons.
Contact: Go to www.thegilpin.co.uk or call 015394 88818.
By Caroline Phillips
17th October 2014
There’s something special about Sicily. As Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman has written, ‘Oranges are more orange in Sicily.’ And as Goethe wrote, ‘The key to Italy is Sicily.’ Whichever way you look at it, this once-rich island, the biggest in the Med, is magical. It’s famed for its Baroque, Byzantine and Corinthian architecture, cliff-top villages, beautiful beaches, stylish hotels and superb cuisine. I experienced first the luxury of tranquillity and life in the slowest of slow lanes in agroturismo Il Vignale (a week in a way-off-the-beaten-track north coast villa), before taking to the road for a further week to round up the best of the rest of places to stay.
Il Vignale
If it’s the luxury of utter tranquility and a charming rural retreat way off the beaten volcanic-lava track that you’re after, Il Vignale near near S. Stefano di Camastra on the north coast of Sicily is just the ticket. The road there is a character-building mixture of hairpin bends and crumbly tarmac – but it’s all worth it once you arrive.  As we shut our car doors, we turned to face the panorama laid out in front of the house. The feeling of peace and expansion was rejuvenating; just the valley with its wild rocky hills, a fierce blue sky – and silence.
There were, of course, immediate plans to hike up one of the hills, but I’m glad to say that our stay at Il Vignale undid every scrap of our willpower – as all good poolside holidays should. You go there to lounge by the pool with 360-degree valley views, to chill with friends, catch up on star-gazing and to combine beach and countryside in the laziest of days. Oh, and to drink excellent local wines and feast, feast and feast. Maria, the chef, magics up zucchini flowers delicately stuffed with the freshest ricotta, melting pastry parcels of porcini or melatzane, and spinach-like tenerumi with homemade pasta, plus tender black-skinned pig – a speciality from the nearby Nebrodi Mountains.
The house itself is an attractive brick villa with a cool, stony interior and seven bedrooms from which to choose. The rooms are simple and authentic, with stone floors, white walls and heavy wooden shutters. The master bedroom has a four-poster bed and a better-than-Heaven view across the valley. Think location, location, location. At the front of the house, there is a forecourt with a path winding down to the pool, and at the rear is a shady terrace with a long wooden table for group meals. The kitchen is industrially large, perfect for conjuring up meals out of food with zero miles – the owner brings in his olive oil and baskets of organic vegetables – and it’s equipped for catering for large numbers, with the emphasis on function over charm.
Most of our time at Il Vignale was spent meandering – paperbacks and sun-cream in hand – between the infinity pool and the house, between breakfast, late lunch and long, convivial suppers on the terrace. But we did venture out once or twice, driving up the steep road, past Il Vignale’s olive groves, into nearby Santo Stefano di Camastra. The town is renowned for its hand-painted ceramics and pottery – there are exhibitions and workshops to visit. Plus there are plenty of little restaurants for a supper of still-flipping seafood. We chose to forego our restaurant dolce in favour of local gelati available at cafes throughout the town. These we licked happily while strolling beneath the stars and watching little boys play endless late night games of football in the main square.  Television? What’s that?!
In the surrounding area, the seaside villages Pettineo, Motta D’Affermo and Mistretta, are simple and pretty. You can also visit the Aeolian Islands by hydrofoil from Milazzo or Cefalu, and the nearby Nebrodi Mountains – if you want animals, plants and trees. On the sea-facing side of the mountains, you can descend directly to the shore and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Or so I’m told. But did I tell you about the infinity pool, the sun-cream and our Kindles?
Despite the opportunities for exploring, Il Vignale is best suited to families or friends who want primarily to laze by the H2O. It’s easy to lose track of time, but the villa features a novel device: a daily influx of swooping little birds who announce the cocktail hour and the end of a hard day’s sunbathing.
Book through villa specialist soloSicily – www.solosicily.com .  Tel – +44 (0)20 7097 1413.
Best of The Rest
Donna Carmela
Donna Carmela is a corker of a hotel, boasting as it does rooms with both a volcano vista and a sea view.  Mount Etna booms theatrically in the background, red molten lava burning down its slopes, and the Ionian Sea twinkles happily in the foreground. This stylish boutique hotel of just 18 bedrooms in Sant’Alfio nestles in a nursery of 5000 Mediterranean and sub tropical plants – giving guests strolling rights among bonsai olive, fig trees and ginormous cacti.  Add to this an interior that’s decorated with flair and quirkiness – it boasts rough plaster walls and ornamental antique farming implements alongside funky contemporary pieces (think Philippe Starck chairs, a metal staircase  and a fabulous table fashioned from an tree trunk on sculptural metal legs), and bingo, you have the perfect romantic getaway.  Forget the land of milk and honey. At Donna Carmela, they go one better – it’s the land of Mount Etna cheese and honey.
Book through Just Sicily – www.justsicily.co.uk . Tel – +44 (0)1202 489040.  For car hire, go to www.sbc.it or email [email protected]
Eremo della Giubilana
If you want to stay in the home of noblewoman Vincenza Iolanda Nifosi, then Eremo della Giubilana, near Ragusa, is the place (you can arrive there on its private airstrip.) It’s a 15th century, family-run former convent snapped up by the Knights of the Order of St John, who then sold it to the Vincenza’s family in 1750. Since then, it’s been lovingly restored by her son, architect and Renaissance man Salvatore Mancini and now has 19 bedrooms and five cottages. It has an imposing ancient tower – once a defence against pirates – dry stone walls and secret hidden courtyards. Reception is in the former chapel and comfortable bedrooms are in erstwhile monks’ cells, some with ancient limestone floors and four-poster beds. Everywhere there are antiques, heirlooms, suits of armour and religious artefacts. Plus there’s a vaulted gunroom with shotguns dating from 1900. Breakfast in the one-time refectory is a feast of local, creamy ricotta, home-cured hams, the tastiest of homemade flans and prickly pears. While lunches and dinners are elaborate Sicilian affairs using local, organic and seasonal ingredients – the food too complicated for some tastes – taken in the courtyard and served by staff who are super simpatico. Days are spent idly by the pool or in the garden among ancient quince and medlar trees, drinking wines pulled from a cellar in the former crypt, and having Sicilian cookery lessons – using the estate’s antique grains and following ancient recipes from the Hyblean aristocracy. Salvatore with perfect English and an encyclopaedic local knowledge also takes guests in his 4WD to the family’s UNESCO-listed gorge and valley nearby – which boasts 12 ancient mills, natural swimming pools, and air pungent with the scent of figs and wild herbs. Plus the nearby Baroque splendours of Syracuse and Noto, and ancient catacombs, are enough to make the largest guidebook burst cheerfully.
Book through www.eremodellagiubiliana.com .  Tel – +39 0932 669119.  For car hire, go to www.sbc.it or email [email protected]
Grand Hotel Villa Igiea
Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, built in 1904, is one of those majestic, old-fashioned and delightfully faded hotels with bedrooms of gold, damask and gilt – including original decorations, frescoes and Art Nouveau furnishings – and it has a glorious terrace looking onto wide gardens of pine, palm and bougainvillea that extend prettily to the sea. It has Monte Pellegrino as a backdrop and overlooks the Port of Palermo with its sailing and pleasure boats. This five-star hotel’s big lure is that it’s bursting with history – from the 1934 documentary about it, complete with flapper gels in bathing costumes – to its walls decked with big photos of King Carlos and Edward VII staying there. Add to that the fact that the villa was restored by Art Nouveau architect Ernesto Basile at the end of the 19th century for the Florio family, and you get the picture. The food isn’t tip-top. But where else can you walk past a massive Giovanni Boldini 1924 oil portrait of the original owner, Donna Franca Florio, (bought for $1m 12 years ago) in the ballroom-size breakfast room to pick over the buffet of pistachio and plum slices, cannoli and crema di Ricotta and brioches with coffee granita?
Book through www.villa-igiea.com .  Tel – +39 091 631 2111.
Caroline Phillips is an award-winning freelance journalist who contributes to publications from Sunday and daily newspapers to glossy magazines, to various luxury websites.  To see more of her work, go to www.carolinephillips.net .
By Ainslie Foster
9th October 2014
The thought of escaping from one’s busy life – even for just one night of pampered luxury – was just too tempting to resist.  But such getaways, so hotly anticipated, can often be fraught with disappointment if the hotel doesn’t live up to the promise of its website or brochures.  Luckily for me, on arriving at the impressive, 19th century country house hotel, Matfen Hall, I knew I’d found just what I’d been hoping for.  Set in 300 acres of some of Northumberland’s finest landscaped parkland, it’s a favourite spot for weddings, with a newly refurbished spa guaranteed to deliver a bride glowing from head to toe. It’s also the place to go if you’re a golfer, with a 27 hole course to challenge you before collapsing for some well-deserved refreshment at the 19th (at the Keeper’s Lodge).
Matfen Hall is a 53 room, Gothic gem, privately owned by Sir Hugh and Lady Blackett.  The Hall has been in the family for over 260 years, and opened as a hotel in 1999. No doubt, such a history and pedigree meant that it was no surprise that I was made to feel more like a favoured guest rather than a mere hotel visitor – the service was impeccable!
Of the four restaurants to choose from, I opted for dinner in the 2 AA rosette Library Dining Room where Head Chef, Chris Delaney, has conjured up a superb, French-inspired menu, sourcing seasonal, local produce. A complex, very crisp Puligny Montrachet put me in a very rosy mood, while completely spoilt for choice. Foie Gras purists will be won over by the Foie Gras Crème Brulee, truffle shortbread with fig and port compote, while I found the Southgate crab and lobster plate with pickled celery and mango relish deliciously fresh. The Northumberland rib eye steak was perfectly cooked and the corn-fed chicken with hand-rolled pasta, summer garden greens and girolle mushroom cream was succulent enough to satisfy but light enough to leave room for pud, which is ever my weakness!
My melting chocolate heart cake made me wish for baking skills, but I can’t imagine ever being able to produce such an irresistible concoction. Fortunately, my sumptuous room with panoramic views across the parkland (you can still sense them, even in the dark) was only a stagger away.  Bliss….
Rates
By The Luxury Channel
26th September 2014
For the past 26 years and perhaps longer, surfing aficionados from all over the world have been making the journey to the Indonesian island of Sumba to experience the left-hand wave at Nihiwatu, a magnificent surfing paradise. It was in 1988 that Claude and Petra Graves first arrived and painstakingly set about building a small resort with eleven keys. They continued to attract surfers, limiting the number to ten per day, giving the resort almost cult status and building a successful business that has garnered more than its fair share of awards from leading publications around the world.
The exotic, secluded resort is nestled upon 567 acres of land, only 65 acres of which are developed – and it is capped at that.  Formerly a Dutch colony, Sumba is home to 650,000 residents and is categorized as a deciduous forest eco region due to its special flora and fauna, and Nihawatu features a spectacular 2.5 km of pristine beachfront.
Each suite at Nihiwatu has a dedicated butler – always at the ready with a smile to cater to guests’ every need in a charmingly unobtrusive way. They are part of the 300 terrific Sumbanese staff led by a hand-picked group of ex-pats who truly appreciate the culture and the island, who offer bespoke luxury service.
For authentic culinary excellence, Nihiwatu’s main restaurant, the Wavefront, has unparalleled views and a renowned executive chef Bernard who has a lot of experience in Asia. Guests can also eat at the Nio Beach BBQ or gather at the iconic Boathouse Bar where the beach fire pit invites inspired nightly discussions of the day’s activities. Resort rates include breakfast, lunch and dinner, and non-alcoholic beverages.
Nihiwatu features every form of water sport imaginable from surfing and snorkelling to scuba-diving and deep-sea fishing. Active pursuits on land range from trekking through the natural and unspoiled beauty of the landscape, to riding on Sumbanese horses (smaller than western horses but sturdy and ready for a canter on the beach), to yoga beside an enticing waterfall. Cooking classes are offered in the beach kitchen, perfectly positioned between the forest and the sea.
The next phase of the journey is in process, with plans to grow responsibly. Looking to take the resort to the next level, U.S. entrepreneur Chris Burch purchased Nihiwatu and, together with his Managing Partner James McBride (best known for his time at the Ritz Carlton Hotel Company, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, and most recently as President of Malaysian hotel conglomerate YTL Hotels), set about transforming the property.  Adding suites including a five bedroom master suite, four tree house apartments and additional rooms, the resort will grow to 32 spacious villas and a tree-house Jungle Spa by Spring 2015.
The deep-rooted commitment to give back will be maintained and all profits repatriated into the Sumba Foundation. The result?  A unique collaboration between Nihiwatu and the local community that today co-exists with compelling interdependence: the resort has become the biggest employer on the island.
Additionally, in October, Nihawatu will launch its Guru Retreat programme.  A Guru Village has been created that will accommodate up to twelve Gurus, each invited to stay between one week and one month, to share their passion and enhance the experience of guests.  Nihiwatu is a place for life-changing and life-enhancing experiences and is the perfect intimate setting to discover and renew a sense of adventure.  From adventurers redefining hiking trails, to world-class spear fishermen, to surfers who have broken boundaries; from photographers sharing their secrets or artists inspiring guests to paint – these Gurus will share their crowning creations.
So you no longer have to be a surfer to enjoy this resort (although it certainly enhances the experience). More important, however, is an appreciation of the Sumba Foundation that exists because of the generosity of hotel guests past and present, proving that in the hospitality industry at least, a responsible citizen can have a lasting effect when he puts his mind to it.
Traveling To Sumba
Sumba is an hour and 20 minutes by air from Bali, with several daily turbo prop flights to Sumba.  Nihiwatu also organizes charter flights for guests that can be booked via their Bali office.  For information, contact [email protected]
23rd June 2014
STAY – EAT – EXPLORE
Paris is a city of incomparable beauty and history, shaped by a tumultuous and glorious past reflected in its boulevards, palaces and the savoir-faire attitude of its inhabitants. Whether as a centre of education and culture, or the epicentre of fashion and gourmet decadence, Paris has something for everyone. The Luxury Channel (with a little help from the travel gurus at Parnassus Luxury Travel) explores the myriad of possibilities and reveals their essential high-end city guide to Paris:
WHERE TO STAY
Mandarin Oriental, Paris
You can’t beat the level of service (the staff are utterly charming) and the hotel’s exceptional city centre location. A relative newcomer to the scene, The Mandarin Oriental, Paris, opened its impressive and monumental doors in 2011. The hotel is located behind the Tuileries Gardens, on the fashionable Rue Saint-Honoré. A nod from the liveried doormen and you are beckoned through the dark marbled lobby into the light greenery of the central inner courtyard. A butterfly motif (that informs design throughout the hotel) weaves its way through the delicate trees and sculptures in the garden, creating intimate and inviting corners for guests to enjoy Bellinis or perhaps a cake from the Mandarin’s very own patisserie. It’s a real oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of the city and it’s this that gives the hotel such a special and intimate quality.
The rooms (with courtyard views) are some of the biggest in Paris with an elegant art deco theme, such as Man Ray prints on the walls and sumptuous velvet fabrics, as their interior inspiration. However, the magic is in the details – Frette sheets, Diptyque candles, Bang & Olufsen TVs and an iPad for every room that serve to make each room homely and spoiling. The spa area provides a perfect sanctuary, with a 15m pool surrounded by mosaics and a butterfly projection.
The cuisine is haute and seriously yummy – the restaurants, Camelia and Sur Mesure (the latter being the more formal of the two), are curated by two Michelin starred chef, Thierry Marx, with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal produce and a little bit of showmanship’s magic!
Address: 251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
Words and images by Rosalind Milani Gallieni
20th June 2014
Summer destinations of peace and quiet and away from the madding crowds are always a gem to find, and after a forty minute drive from Bari airport on the smooth new motorways which cut the sun-drenched landscape, we are greeted by a handsome smiling doorman, who emerges from his designer cream stone gatehouse to welcome us.  Dressed in a crisp white polo shirt and pressed chinos, he hands us a bottle of local chilled water, and the gates behind us glide shut, in absolute silence.
An imposing cream stone courtyard, entirely built from soft tufo stone typical of Puglia, greets us. Fresh white potato vines in full bloom dangle from the architraves and lemon trees, and large sturdy storm lamps line the perimeter. The power of this main structure does not quite prepare you for the softly sophisticated, off-white, candle-lit lobby, infused in natural essential oils.
These first impressions of “arrival” have brought friends, celebrities and guests from all over the world back to the San Domenico Hotels time and time again, be it for holidays, weddings, private parties or for time for total seclusion. It is since 1996 that the Melpignano family (with Marisa Melpignano, the visionary and hands-on manager behind the projects), has been painstakingly creating this series of havens of perfection and tranquility, namely the Borgo Egnazia, and close by, the Masseria San Domenico and Masseria Cimino. Golf courses, beach clubs and high-profile spas in and around the properties all share this same common denominator of style and discretion for their high-profile international client base.
The Borgo Egnazia is a low-lying contemporary structure of rooms, swimming-pools, village houses, large private villas, courtyards, stables and even a church, which encompass three very distinct types of Puglia’s lifestyles designed by Pino Brescia, of Puglian descent. La Corte, the main hotel, has been created as the initial first section of this local experience, and a sophisticated concept has been rolled-out across the 63 guest rooms, which are immaculately designed and decorated with witty, unexpected and touching local elements, giving the rural life outside a twist of fashion appeal inside, drawing the interest of fashion designers, young executives, discerning business travellers, families and high-profile guests. Following the greige cushions lined up on the seating areas in the softly-lit niches along the lobby, the warren of cream-on-cream, high-ceilinged, stone corridors leads to white dining areas extending beyond.
All the highly appointed bedrooms in La Corte and its suites have their private balconies overlooking the secular olive trees on the estate, the soft turquoise swimming pools lined with white sun-loungers, and the entire Borgo with the Apulian mountain range and blue seas in the distance.
The Borgo itself is a village-style complex, again entirely of tufo stone, which has been used for the streets, the church tower, the central piazza and the restaurants within. Everything here has been created with families in mind, who can freely enjoy the safety of this resort, with its rustic, small town houses.
These chic yet cosy homes reflect the elements of daily farm life, and again, authentic traditional agricultural elements and tools from the farmers’ trade have been brought into the homes: iron bundles of wire used for the vines, agricultural digging and planting tools, jars and bottles for the preserves of sughi and olive oils, gardening utensils, twine, herbs and not least, an upturned chair in every home (a token to the local superstition that this would bring on the rain for the crops). Every imaginable item has its place in this charming décor. Comfort, service and hotel facilities have in no way been overlooked in these bijoux homes and luxury lives in total harmony with the soul of the country-side….and there is even a little bit of country-side outside every home in the way of a small private garden.
Stepping up the ante, on the fringe of the Borgo’s vast estate, lie the 29 independent villas, strewn around the edge like a strand of beautiful stones. Here styling and design is classic and of high definition, offering top comfort, total privacy in the walled gardens, and all the services of the hotel.
Residents have their own golf-caddy as a means of transport to and from their homes, and each villa boasts a breath-taking vista over the olive groves, the landscaped gardens, and further afield, the vegetable patches which serve the estate, the immaculate San Domenico golf course and the Mediterranean Sea. Of course, if one didn’t fancy the open seas, there is the comfort of one’s own pool to do the daily lengths in, in total privacy, without a crab in sight!
BORGO EGNAZIA – NOWHERE ELSE
La Masseria San Domenico – Fashion Grown Up
A ten minute drive away from Borgo Egnazia lies the Grand Dame of the Melpignano properties; a set of beautiful farmhouse buildings dating back to the 15th century, now all carefully restored. Immersed in natural beauty, we feel the power of the millenary olive groves, with tree trunks which would take at least two people to embrace. UNESCO has declared these trees a world heritage sight, and they share their accolade with the bright yellow, scented gauze bushes, jasmine corridors, rose gardens, wild rosemary borders and caper bushes that surround the Masseria.
The silence of the gardens and the elegance of the hotel is conducive to total relaxation and rest, yet the gardens and these landscape awaken the soul and the senses. Marisa Melpignano has been able to capture an atmosphere of history and comfort here, which is enjoyed by a very elegant, discerning and cultivated clientele, primarily couples, who come for both time-out and for therapeutic cures at the Spa & Talassotherapy on the property.
This travel destination, known for its award-winning wellbeing Spa, focuses again on only the very best treatments with a definitive, marked benefit to body and mind.  Daily, or indeed weekly packages, are enhanced by a healthy Mediterranean diet of strictly locally-grown vegetables and olive oil, fresh fish and a burrata which (anyone would agree!) is second to none, in amongst the local cheeses.
The treatments, being created for a noticeable effect, are not for the faint-hearted, and a medical overview is de rigeur before embarking on energizing Aquagym classes, Kneipp routes, saunas, ThalgoJets, Thalatherm, Algotherapy and other à la carte treatments.
Marisa here again has focused on world-class standards in her wellness centre and spa, and she has trained the staff well over the years, some having been with her since day one, 18 years ago. All are through and through knowledgeable, informed, proficient, discreet and of course local, which has been an important entrepreneurial effort the region has enjoyed beyond what is the influx of international tourism.
CONTACT
16th June 2014
Claudia Cardinale
All eyes are on Sicily this week during one of Italy’s most historic and glamorous festivals, Taormina.  At the festival’s opening on Saturday was Claudia Cardinale, the unforgettable actress who starred in The Leopard, filmed on Sicilian soil.  Also arriving at the festival were Bo Derek, Melanie Griffith, Eva Longoria, Pamela Anderson and Paz Vega.
Pamela Anderson
The Taormina Film Festival has been hosted over the years by many stars of international cinema, including Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Sophia Loren, Cary Grant, Robert De Niro, Marlon Brando, Charlton Heston, Audrey Hepburn, Gregory Peck and Tom Cruise, amongst others.
I was lucky enough to stay at two of Sicily’s finest hotels – Hotel Timeo and Villa Sant’Andrea, which are two of Hollywood’s A-listers’ favourite destinations.
THE GRAND HOTEL TIMEO
Adjacent to the ancient Greek Theatre, which was founded in the third century with Mount Etna as a backdrop, The Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, set high in the hills, really has spectacular views over the Sicilian coastline.  No doubt the stars of this week’s festival will be enjoying their champagne or Aperol spritz on the terrace before dining in their fine restaurant.
The English writer D.H. Lawrence stayed at the Grand Hotel Timeo, and was inspired by its view. It is said that he wrote Lady Chatterley’s Lover during his time in Taormina.  I took my husband, and I can attest to the romance of the hotel.
The hotel consists of 140 units, rooms and suites.  At the top of the hill, the presidential suite features two elegant bedrooms, a lounge and dining room, and a large terrace with a private jacuzzi.
Dining by candlelight, the hotel restaurant blends into the Sicilian hills, and the mixture of Sicilian and Mediterranean cuisine gives us a sense of why the famous come back time and again. The food is delicious and our highlights were thin sliced cod fish on watercress salad with olive capers and tomatoes (which was very refreshing) before having rack of lamb au gratin with sweet almonds.  Both are utterly delicious.
My colleague tried eggplant gnocci with tomato and fresh oregano sauce, and Carnaroli rice with zucchini flowers, sea urchin eggs and goat ricotta cheese. I wasn’t sure about the sea urchin but apparently it was an exotic and mouthwatering dish!
Their speciality is “Razza Modicana,” thinly sliced grilled Sicilian beef served with a selection of sauces.
Our evening ended in the early hours when the piano player finished his finale of the evening – time to retire to its sister Hotel Villa Sant’Andrea, we thought!
VILLA SANT’ANDREA
I have stayed at many top hotels over the years and as one of Belmond’s sister hotels (The Splendido in Porto Fino) is one of my very favourites, I was expecting similar exemplary service. The Villa Sant’Andrea certainly did not disappoint.
Set on its own exclusive beach amongst subtropical gardens, it was built by an aristocratic family in 1830 and has retained all the charm of a private retreat.  Red and white geraniums surround the entrance to the hotel and with a warm greeting from the staff, you really feel as though you have come home.  The light marble white walls and fine arts give you a feeling of cool and simple elegance. This is not overbearing, but restful and calm.  Remember to find Mario, who will give you the “insider’s track” on all the local happenings (and a little gossip besides!).
With the Grand Hotel Timeo a cable car ride up the hills and situated in the centre of town, the Villa Sant’Andrea is an escape away from the hustle and bustle.  A honeymooners’ choice, I would say.
With romance their priority, they think of everything – a little Evian bottle to spray over you on the beach when the temperatures get too much and a bookmark when you doze off on the sun lounger by the heated pool if you prefer that to the sea. In their Wellness Centre, they even offer a Full Moon massage in an open air gazebo. Definitely for honeymooners!
I stayed in one of their recently opened suites, which was light and sophisticated, and whose turquoise ceramics set off the pool and clear blue sea below. The furnishings were cool marble, soft grey leather and contemporary art work.  Cashmere blankets and linen sheets were definitely a plus compared to hotel sheets and duvets.
My favourite pastimes?  Breakfast of eggs Benedict on the terrace overlooking the sea, a dip in the ocean followed by salade nicoise, enjoying a bottle of rose with my friends, an afternoon lazing on the sun bed, catch-up time with a book, cocktails on the hotel suite terrace before dressing for dinner, and taking the cable car into Taormina town.  For those who need to explore, the Isola Bella Natural Reserve is perfect for snorkelling, and a boat ride on Mazzaro Bay can take you around the caves of the Grotta Azzurra of Sicily.
Frankly, I found little fault with Villa Sant’Andrea and for a touch of Sicilian history (Mafia included!) romance and utter tranquility, I would definitely recommend this hotel.
Drawbacks?  Well, not many. The shopping, restaurants and nightlife are a taxi ride away but then, who needs any of that when you can just melt away to the sounds of the sea….?
CONTACT
By David Corke
9th June 2014
Italy is a place with much history, rich culture, and some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable.  I couldn’t wait for the chance to see all of its beauty. The Baglioni Hotels Collection, known for having the unforgettable Italian touch, has much prestige and an undeniable reputation for all things luxury. I knew I’d be in great hands for what I knew would be a memorable trip.
As I travelled from the Regina Hotel Baglioni in Rome to my final stay at the Carlton Hotel Baglioni in Milan, there was a clear sense of genuine Italian hospitality that was weaved through each of the properties, creating an unforgettable experience.  This is a 100% pure Italian brand.  The company started 40 years ago in the Tuscan coast town of Punta Ala by the Polito family, so that family feeling is reflected in the employees, who evoke a genuine and welcoming hospitality. It’s no wonder that the minute you walk into any of the Baglioni Hotels, you feel like you’re walking into someone’s home,
albeit a particularly majestic one! There’s a sense of true elegance yet familial experiences at every touchpoint.
I do wish I had seen The Last Supper mural at the Museo Cenacolo Vinciano in Milan, though. It’s a tough ticket to get — you need to reserve at least a month before. However, you can work with the Concierge at the Carlton Hotel Baglioni in Milan to see if last minute arrangements can be made.
Everyone has a favorite Italian destination, and I’d have to say mine is Florence – the gateway to Tuscany.
The city is the perfect size, not too big or too small. You can explore all it has to offer in three or four days but still have so much more to see the next time. One of the most magical moments was when I climbed the steps to the top of the Duomo. I made it to the top of the dome just in time for sunset to experience the most amazing view over the city.
One of my favorite meals during the trip was when the concierge at the Luna Hotel Baglioni recommended a great restaurant that local Venetians enjoy. It’s called Osteria Enoteca San Marco, located down a quiet alleyway close to the San Marco Piazza. I started with rabbit fussili, then chopped liver with polenta and local vegetables for the main course. Then I washed it all down with a bottle of the most amazing local red wine. Salute!
The three words I would use to describe the Baglioni Hotels collection are genuine, sumptuous, and one-of-a-kind. I could use so many more words but I think these words really bring the brand to life. My experience with each of the Baglioni Hotels was truly incredible.
For more information, go to www.baglionihotels.com .
By Isabel Donnelly
28th May 2014
Having lived near Gibraltar for some years, it was a delight to hear that a ship has been docked in the harbour where you can eat gourmet food and drink cocktails on the top deck (Gibraltar has many restaurants, but none that are Michelin standard).
The Sunborn Gibraltar is a 147 metre long floating luxury yacht hotel – a first for Gibraltar, and a totally new concept. Spread over seven decks, the ship has been designed in a very modern, minimalist style.  The owners are from Finland and this is portrayed in the design throughout the ship.  Sunborn was created to offer destinations with limited development space an additional luxury hotel.  Designed to meet very high environmental EU standards as a European Green Building, on-board the yacht features innovative, eco-friendly technology, and will not be using engines or generators while in mooring.  As movable properties, yacht hotels can be located in protected locations, both natural and historic (such as Gibraltar), where they have the advantage of leaving no environmental footprint after removal.
Arriving on board the Sunborn Gibraltar, there is the grand entrance, with a large chandelier being the central feature. A team of enthusiastic staff are there to greet you. Down one deck is the ballroom, perfect for corporate entertainment or parties. The suites are spacious and each has its own large terrace – ideal for a drinks party. The standard bedrooms are a smaller version, but with a balcony terrace. All have marble bathrooms. They also have the phone programmed for lighting effects and electric blinds. No more information in a pack – it’s all very state-of-the-art here! Plus floor to ceiling windows throughout the yacht allow for stunning views across the straits to the tip of North Africa.
The main restaurant, with over thirty chefs in the kitchen, is on the top deck with views of nearby Spain. The food is international cuisine and was perfect for the lunch we were having – pea soup and salmon in tzatsiki for starters, and sea bream on a bed of cauliflower with polenta and mushroom risotto for the main course.  Our mint tea was made with fresh mint – a real plus! – and the service was friendly and efficient.
A soft opening is in the pipeline and many projects are still to be completed, such as the linen restaurant, the spa and the gym. On our visit, there were many artisans at work completing decks and fitting out bedrooms and the casino.  The casino tables will have a minimum chip, which will be attractive to poker players around Gibraltar and the Costa del Sol, as well as to those from further afield.
I look forward to returning when the ship has been completed and is full of the buzz of guests.  This will be the perfect choice for corporate types and companies for board meetings, conferences and entertaining but, better still, will be a great place to hang when you have downtime in Gibraltar.
By Caroline Phillips
23rd May 2014
After years of being so-so, Cliveden – the stateliest of stately home hotels – now deserves a trillion regal curtsies. Prepare ye for a (rare) eulogy – because the hotel’s new leaseholders, the Livingstone brothers, have been making changes with oodles of fairy dust, cash and sophisticated taste, and they have pulled not so much a rabbit out of a hat as a voluptuous grande dame dressed in fashionable finery.
The newly refurbished East Wing – the first stage of restoration of the principal bedrooms – has just opened (in April). It’s gaspingly gorgeous in a silk and hand-painted-wallpaper type of way. Plus, chef André Garrett (formerly head chef at Galvin at Windows) recently started cooking up a classical French storm for his sublime, eponymous restaurant here.  The dining area has been moved from the (dingy) basement to the ground floor, now giving breathtaking views over the Parterre. Even the staff have morphed into perfect prototypes – friendly, super-attentive and solicitous without being unctuous or heel-clicking.
Let’s wind back. Some things stay the same. Like entering Cliveden – set in 376 National Trust-owned acres and with 21,000 tulips in its Walled Garden – and driving excitedly past the 19th century shell fountain, called the Fountain of Love, and catching my breath at the sight of Cliveden, the Victorian Italianate mansion where Palladian meets Cinquecento (this in Taplow, Buckinghamshire?), before clocking its clock tower – actually a water tower – in all its Victorian showiness, flamboyance and oomph. Then entering the Great Hall, with its oak paneling, ginormous 16th century carved fireplace, portrait of Nancy Astor by Sargent, 18th century Belgian tapestries and suits of armour.
For more than three centuries, Cliveden has been home to English nobility, and past guests include Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill and George Bernard Shaw, and every king and queen since George I. It’s where John Profumo, then secretary of state for war, famously met Christine Keeler, a party girl who was involved with a Soviet naval attaché – leading explosively to the Profumo Affair.
In the Roaring Twenties, you’d have needed a personal invitation from Lady Astor to stay here; now you just need a few hundred quid. Or £1,572 per night for Lady Astor’s former bedroom – a suite with enough space to swing 60 wedding guests (or hundreds of cats). Ah yes, the suites – ‘Garibaldi’ and ‘Mountbatten’ and the like, named after those who slept there before me. The décor is by Mario Nicolaou, each in a different style with layerings of beautiful fabrics, delicate and intricate trimmings, eclectic furnishings, antiques and artworks.
The Chinese suite with Nancy Astor’s fireplace, its luxurious wallpaper, scintillating sun, yolk and sand colours suffused with light, and its four-poster dressed so well she could go to a ball, is exquisite.  Then there’s the Mountbatten suite – an erstwhile billiards room – with acres of deep oak panelling, gentlemen’s club vibe and rich greens. Plus Spring Cottage – a summer house built to entertain Queen Victoria and with bespoke stone steps to a landing stage on the Thames – peaceful with its sea blues, mustards and sage fabrics midst the bluebell woods and fields of daffs.
And what of the master chef, André Garrett? He’s clearly en route to a Michelin star or ten. His technique is faultless. His combination of flavours, textures and temperatures is magical – it’s complex, multi-layered, imaginative cooking with an incredible lightness of touch. He whirls up a tantalising tartare of hand-dived Orkney scallops with black radish, smoked eel beignets, cod roe and English caviar; a beautiful ballotine of foie gras and Cotswold white chicken, Cumbrian ham and salt-baked celeriac, golden raisins, hazelnuts; and sweetest of Scottish langoustine thermidor with grilled baby gem; all followed by slow-cooked Cox apple, rosemary caramel, raisin puree, beure noisette crumb, walnut ice-cream – a menu so delicious I want to eat it. (The menu, that is.)
Is anything wrong with the place? The wonderful Twenties outdoor swimming pool is still there – built to stop Nancy Astor swimming in the Thames – but it hasn’t benefited aesthetically from the recent addition of two wooden hot tubs beside it. The Spa needs a major face-lift, if not radical surgery – but that is planned. Word is they’re going to refurbish the Club Room restaurant in the former stable block, but I hope they don’t – it’s kitsch and delightfully eccentric. Finally, I find myself praying for plagues of locusts and hail, but that’s only because I’m enough of a fantasist to want to keep National Trust day trippers out of ‘‘my’’ Cliveden garden.
This is me looking to find fault. Really, Cliveden is Sophisticate Central. There’s everything – and more – for the discerning traveller. The hotel’s motto is apposite: nothing ordinary ever happened here, nor could it.
By Mário de Castro
17th March 2014
Don’t worry about hotels anymore – the latest travel trend is to just embrace La Dolce Vita of home exchanging.  We spoke to HomeExchange.com ‘s new Chief Operating Officer, Jim Pickell, for some advice.
From Sony to OpenEnglish and now HomeExchange – what made you leave a major, universally known company to become an entrepreneur?
I’ve always thought of myself as an entrepreneur. I left Sony in 2007, after seven years. I was ultimately responsible for the digital distribution of film, music and eBooks. This was an exciting time as the traditional means of distributing physical products was being fundamentally transformed, and I am proud of what we accomplished during that period.  While at Sony, I found the evolution of Apple’s educational content offering via ITunes University to be compelling. Using a personalised platform that would offer online English learning presented an exciting opportunity. My wife was born in Italy and learned English the old fashion way – by watching television. That’s where the concept was born. Making learning entertaining and accessible with personalised edu-tainment. OpenEnglish now has over 2000 employees.
Ironically, home exchanging is how I met Ed Kushins. I realized the most effective way to relocate my family for a short period was with an exchange. I sent an inquiry to Ed through HomeExchange.com, not realising that he was the CEO! While the exchange with Ed didn’t pan out, we got together and realised we shared a vision for the concept. My wife ended up giving birth to our child while on my first exchange so it certainly has had an influence on our family in more ways than one.
With your background as a digital business expert, do you think technology will allow pure players such as HomeExchange to revolutionize the travel industry?
I recently read that more than 10% of weddings in the United States were initiated on dating websites. Services like this have changed the way we make one of the most important decisions in our lives. With home exchanging, you’re trying to find a perfect “match.” The cost of a mistake can be high and establishing the trust of the intermediary is critical – and yet we’re getting far more sophisticated at suggesting prospective matches. HomeExchange now has members in 150 countries and supports 16 languages. This is a trend that I certainly don’t see ending anytime soon.
Is HomeExchange a player in the sharing economy, and how?
Well, HomeExchange has been a leader of the sharing economy before anyone called it the “sharing economy.” Our CEO Ed started the company over twenty years ago.  Homes are the largest personal asset class in the world. With a home exchange, you release value that’s otherwise constrained. This is increasingly important, as homes are not always the piggy bank we thought.
What are some of your favourite places to visit, or ways to use HomeExchange?
In the past two years, we’ve arranged about six trades. All of them had unique motivations and have facilitated friendships I expect will be life-long. For example, my four year old son is just learning to ski. I was shocked how expensive the sport has become to learn. We have a second home in Baja in Mexico and worked out an ideal situation with the owners of a beautiful, four bedroom family home in Mammoth Mountain in California. In fact, this week the owners are staying in our primary residence in Newport Beach while we’re at our second home. This is a prime example of how these relationships can evolve if you’re a bit creative.
We’ve also exchanged with Palm Desert, California. This is a great weekend escape for us and we expect to repeat this.  We love Hawaii and traded last year with professional chefs in Kauii (what a tremendous kitchen!).  We spent a month last summer in Sardinia, off the coast of Italy. One of the owners was having some health issues before our trip and couldn’t come to the U.S. when the exchange was scheduled. Instead of cancelling, they rented a home for us down the street. It was certainly over and above what we expected. Our families spent much of our month together and we saw what living in Sardinia would be like. This Christmas, we received five pounds of fresh salmon in the mail from an owner of another swap we arranged in Alaska, even though we’ve yet to make our trip! The generosity of exchangers never ceases to amaze me.
The key today lies in the internet, which mixes our dynamics and sense of adventure, bringing out the flexibility of work and life. We all use technology to our advantage in our contemporary lifestyles, and in fact, we have just recently seen the launch of an all-new Definitive Guide to HomeExchanging , created as an E-guide by global travellers Chris and Hannah. They are long-standing home-exchangers, and I feel they depict how the new world is developing, allowing work, family, freedom and travel to co-exist.
We typically take a number of local trips every year and one larger trip. I can work while I travel, so pretty much anywhere that has the internet is on our list. Our next exchange is to the San Juan Islands off the state of Washington in the U.S. As a sailor and someone that loves the outdoors, this has always been the top of my list. In the future, we have plans to visit Vietnam and Tahiti as well.
Words and images by Rosalind Milani Gallieni
28th January 2014
A warm, balmy weekend away can quickly fix your spirits and lift the winter mood.  Marrakech is the destination where spring and summer come to mind all year round, and knowing these prospects are under four hours’ flight from London is like knowing you are going to be given your favourite treat as a child.
Arriving in the main square of Jemaa el Fna, you realise that too much is still not enough! A fully-fledged expanse of people, animals and activities stretch out before you, and as once upon a time, it all still creates an incredible tapestry of life. The 11th century Minaret still watches over you, as you make your way through fortune-tellers, snake-charmers, orange-juice stalls, hat sellers, determined henna painters, berbers and their (undernourished yet placid) donkey-drawn carts, sword-swallowers, birds of prey, monkeys, kids, mothers and men.
We head on through this sight of living history, enjoying the colours and the sun setting beyond the roof tops, where you can just see the silhouettes of the visitors gathered to watch this live show from the top terraces, sipping an all-too-sweet mint tea made from dark leaves which have seen many a mash!  Hassan, our taxi driver, pops out from one of the side streets into the square and collects us to take us to the Riad Farnatchi, which I had insisted on finding on my own without the GPS….but the prospect did not please him, and spending the next 1/2 hour circumnavigating the souk and the outskirts was far more interesting, and less stressful. His vintage 1973 Mercedes Benz, with its zealously polished dashboard with glued-on ashtray (so well-polished the corners have worn out), floats down the narrow lanes.  Scooters miss us by a whisker and busy stall holders don’t bat an eyelid as they pack and wrap their customers’ figs and nuts. This is where the true treasures and experiences of Marrakech lie.
Once stopped at a local stall holder, Hassan opens the car doors.  We later find out he is one of the best craftsmen around and has in fact built all the four-poster beds we have been sleeping in at Marja’s home. Our great friend and interiors designer in Marrakech, she has created many a home and elegant Zen interior for the English-owner riads dotted outside the main town.
Marja joins us to introduce us to the bearded carpenter, and we marvel that such large beds, cupboards and tables, such superb handy-work, can come from this small worktop, the size of a school desk. His tools are his wealth and they show the years of hardship and passion.
A lad on a bicycle with a cage strapped to his bike then hustles to take our suitcases and before we know it, he is off, somehow knowing where we are due to be resting our heads.  If Hassan weren’t here with Marja, directing what resembles a movie set, it would be a different day!
We follow the top of the lad’s head beetling along behind him, down the orange, terracotta alleyways. Kids no more than seven years old are jumping over roaring fires in the middle of the streets, defying the lick of the huge, angry flames; Marja tells us that today is a the Festival of Children, which might appear as a good explanation for this incredibly dangerous game, accompanied by the roar of flares and rockets going off, but they are having the time of their lives.
Through one more archway, dodging a few murky puddles, and a right turn past an alluring store selling striped Hamman towels, contemporary design kilims and old silk carpets, we spot the landmark: the sentinels’ sentry post smartly painted in English gloss paint.  The suitcases have been delivered and the Souk-courier tipped. The unbranded, simple front door of the Riad Farnatchi swings open, and to our surprise, we are in peace and quiet in the courtyard of the Wix’s first Raid, with its gentle trickle of water coming from the tap which keeps a green-tiled swimming pool full to the brim.
James – elegant, British and incredibly hospitable, still bearing all the impeccable traits of his career at Jonny Roxbrough’s Admirable Crichton – takes us through the cool, tranquil corridors of his properties, explaining how the family have now taken on five adjoining Riads, and have two more they plan on developing into a Hamman and a restaurant.
This cluster of compact townhouses at Farnatchi boasts individuality in every room, and the suites have their own front doors off the first floor balconies, allowing the real experience of sitting on your own private internal courtyard, dripping with scented jasmine. The Berber-inspired suite is both local and homely, with large red sofas ready to catch you after the hurdles of the Souk, and a fireplace ready to stoke if needs be, for an (unexpectedly) chillier winter visit. Local Moroccan-style doorways and filigree work in the walls and door frames have been painstakingly kept intact.
Beyond the decorative ironwork on the windows, the bright blue sky expands above the roof tops. Waking up to this colour is an instant fix first thing in the morning, accompanied by unfamiliar African birdsong.  That same bird lures you up an old circular staircase to the roof top, where a most breathtaking view expands 360 degrees across the Souk, new developments with angled cranes, and beyond as far as the Atlas mountains. Cool curtains sway in the breeze up top and breakfast is served from a black Targine set, revealing local breads, fresh homemade jams and yoghurts, local fruit, and a tremendous pot of fresh coffee.
The waiting staff are on hand 24/7 but not readily visible, making you feel quite at home whether you want to sit, read, snooze or entertain. James tells us how the Riad is currently preparing for an entirely private hire for one of his guests, who has returned every year. This year though, he is bringing 30 of his nearest and dearest for a weekend birthday party, with a differently themed evening at the Farnatchi every night.  James has an incredible knowledge of Morocco having spent many years here with his father and British hotelier Jonathan Wix, managing both the hotel and its international guests and celebrities such as Russell Crowe, Scarlett Johansson, Angelina Jolie….to name a few.  On our second day, James steers us to the Beldi Country Club. He recommends a day is allocated to this, with the evening flight back to London at 8pm.  We wander mainly in the warm, scented Hamman, a very traditional and restful space, heady with essences of rosemary, roses and lavender.
The Hamman & Beldi Gommage, lying on the warm grey polished marble, is the best ever, and afterwards we hovered out of the Hamman, floating along the lavender-lined pathways and olive groves, to the pool-side lunch table. Nature and local culture rule here. The rose gardens grow in full bloom, in wild and unkempt beauty, and the extensive “village” of Beldi now also has 27 hotel rooms dotted off the narrow olive-tree lanes running through tall grass verges. There are several splendid pools to enjoy with tables and loungers always nearby, two good restaurants and small workshops housing local craftsmen who make carpets, rugs, pottery, glassware, hand-embroidered linen and essential oils.
It’s a more distinguished Souk-style experience at Beldi, comparing the streets of the Medina leading to the Riad Farnatchi, owner and manager Géraldine tells me, walking through her blend of botanical wonderland and eco-minded retreat, and the balance between city and country could not be better matched than with these two locations. I realised, when I queued for the flight back to rainy London, that I had truly had a very exceptional weekend. I now wait for a “feasible” amount of time to pass, before needing another gommage.
20th November 2013
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
This calls for some scene-setting.  High above the beaches of Malibu, we unsaddle our horses and return them to a corral.  It is just behind the ravishing holiday home my wife found on HomeExchange.com , a home-swapping website.  Ironically, we ride every day 6,000 miles away from here in the Yorkshire Dales but on an exotic break in California – traded for a week in Wensleydale – it is a delight, not a chore.
For an extra-special holiday without breaking the budget, swapping your home, car and fridge contents – and maybe even your horse! – with someone else’s somewhere glitzy was irresistible.  No money changes hands, so the only fly in the ointment is finding the airfare.  To make it work, you must live in a place a visitor will enjoy or you may struggle to find a taker.  Are your vegetables award-winning, is the local beer famous, your local town historic or nearest theatre and seaside not too far away?
While our five-bedroom former farmhouse is on the weary side of rustic, it is a family home with bags of character.  In an accessible village on the edge of grouse moor, it is close to country pubs, is criss-crossed with excellent walks and the ravishing local scenery has featured in screen and TV adaptations of All Creatures Great And Small, Heartbeat and Wuthering Heights.  This makes it a sure-fire hit, particularly with Americans, which is why our no-nonsense hosts Nick and Penny Rhodes warmed to us online.
On the website, their Malibu home has a Gold listing to underline its stellar ambience.  In going for Gold – for a higher annual fee of US$500 rather than the basic US$120 – you have exclusive access to 700 other Gold members in 60 countries.  Rather pretentiously, it is where we listed our place with photographs of our two girls on a pony in the kitchen.  “That’s what did it for us – we love that sort of thing,” enthuses Penny, who has lived in Los Angeles for 24 years with her TV producer husband.
Although sixty five per cent of swaps are simultaneous, Nick and Penny will not descend on Yorkshire until later this year.  This meant that they welcomed us before moving out for a week.
It was the romantic comedy The Holiday – released in 2006 – that first caught their imagination.  In the movie, two characters – played by Kate Winslet and Cameron Diaz – meet online and exchange homes in the Cotswolds and Beverly Hills.  “The women hook-up on the actual HomeExchange website,” begins Nick.  “The concept appealed to us as we’re big travellers.  We’d often leave our place empty for two to three weeks at a time and then pay to stay in a hotel in two rooms or a suite, so it got us thinking.  While there are fixed costs in running your home whether you’re there or not, we now recoup the listing fees with our first night’s stay.”
Good-natured, polite and hospitable, they have exchanged homes in Copenhagen and Dublin.  “There was a piano in the house in Dublin and we played at least an hour a day,” says Penny.  In exchange, “our housekeeper is available if you would like and we leave a folder of restaurants. Everyone serves as a concierge for each other.  I love the barter system – it’s a like a sweet exchange of goodness,” she says.  “We scarcely even tidy up before we move out, rather we just clear some space,” laughs the mum of eleven year old twins, Dusty and Jade.  “The last family staying here found an I-Pod, which we’d lost months ago.”
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
They bought their home 12 years ago.  A Mediterranean villa with no corners, it is a stunning house on two levels that is always on the curve.  It sits on a hill top 550ft above the bay where you can’t miss the anchored super-yacht owned by multi-billionaire, Larry Ellison.  While it is warm at 25 degrees, it feels airy and there is no need for air-conditioning.  Alfresco eating is encouraged with several outdoor hearths, ovens and barbeques to choose from when we stock the fridge.
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
The ground floor opens onto an outdoor pool with the sloping terraces of the surrounding gardens garlanded in a covering of drought-loving lantana and rosemary, and an orange grove that fruits twice a year.  Upstairs, the master bedroom’s wide balcony looks down onto an unheated outdoor pool, which is warmer than the river we swim in at home.
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
The panorama inland is breathtaking with the Los Flores canyon in the near distance and high peaks beyond.  “The entire mountain range is protected and is criss-crossed with hiking, biking and riding trails.  Much of it belonged to actors Barbara Streisand and Jack Carson, who gave vast tracts of it away,” says Nick.
It takes just 15 minutes to drive to the beaches where you can learn to surf, body-board or simply swim or eat at an ocean-front restaurant.  To see the famous sights in Los Angeles requires determination and takes 45 minutes when the traffic on the freeway into town is heaviest.  It is worth it.  Taking our life in our hands in a borrowed car, Penny sends us for a full-body exfoliation at Wi Spa , a Korean massage studio on Wilshire Boulevard before supper in The Parish in Spring Street, the latest take on an English gastro-pub.
Later in the week, we make it to Sunset Boulevard for lunch at Chateau Marmont , the Hollywood A-listers’ favourite hotel, where we meet Ed Kushins, the founder of HomeExchange.com, which is based in LA.
Ed Kushins, Founder of HomeExchange
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
“When I started the business in 1992, trading homes wasn’t new but this was in a pre-internet age,” says Kushins, who lives on Hermosa Beach. “I’d just got divorced.  I took my children on an exchange to Washington DC to a place with a pool.  I was impressed.”  With a background in marketing, he invested $40,000 and soon had his own business with 100 listings at $40 each, all of them in US.  Then in 1994, the web changed everything and he launched the first online directory.
“It’s like internet dating,” he says.  “For a first-timer, there is a little apprehension but it soon fades because you can verify the home and the owners with real-time videos and Skype.  Most ask others what they think of a place and referrals are now the way many members decide.”
Image courtesy of Emily Mott
He admits that The Holiday was a public relations masterstroke; with the subsequent media coverage, subscribers leapt from 6,000 to 15,000 – many of them overseas.   He now has 46,000 subscribers in 152 countries (2,500 of them in Britain), and there were 1.1 million enquiries in 2012, resulting in 75,000 swaps.  “Exchanging homes can change your life,” he beams.  “Some of our members are lucky enough to retire at 55 – since then, they’ve been using HomeExchange as a way to travel the world virtually for free.”  If only!     
 
For a house swap and to live like a local, visit www.homeexchange.com .  For LA tourist information, visit www.discoverLosAngeles.com .
9th October 2013
Gateway at Angkor Thom
Global Heritage Fund is a not-for-profit organisation, whose mission is to protect, preserve and sustain the most significant and endangered cultural heritage sites in the developing world. Through forming new alliances, establishing partnerships and building a network of conservation and development leaders, Global Heritage Fund is providing projects with new ideas, resources and supporters that will exponentially benefit these sites and build momentum for our global campaign to save vanishing heritage sites in developing regions.  Global Heritage Fund is organising a tour to Cambodia in November, the details of which are below:
NOVEMBER 9TH: ARRIVAL IN PHNOM PENH
Arrival in Phnom Penh, then transfer to Raffles Hotel Le Royal, where the group will be joined by John Sanday OBE, Global Heritage Fund’s Regional Director for the Asia and Pacific region, who will be our guide during our visit to Cambodia.  Early arrivals can enjoy a tour of the colonial highlights of Phom Penh or relax at the pool.  In the afternoon, enjoy a sunset boat cruise along Mekong River, providing a picturesque view of the Royal Palace, the National Museum, and bustling riverfront of Phnom Penh.  Accommodation is at Raffles Hotel Le Royal (Landmark Room) in Phnom Penh.
Our guide John Sanday OBE with a Garuda at Preah Khan, Angkor
NOVEMBER 10TH: PHNOM PENH
Visit to the National Museum: The morning begins with a visit to the National Museum; The museum houses one of the world’s largest collections of Khmer Art, including sculptural, ceramics, bronzes, and ethnographic objects. The Museum’s collection includes over 14,000 items, from prehistoric times to periods before, during, and after the Khmer Empire.
The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh
Visit to the Royal Palace: The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh was constructed over a century ago to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia, his family and foreign dignitaries, and as a venue for the performance of court ceremony and ritual. It serves to this day as the official residence of HM King Norodom Sihamoni. Among the highlights of this working Royal Palace are the Throne Hall and a cast iron pavilion donated by Napoleon III.
Visit to the Silver Pagoda: The Silver Pagoda’s proper name is Wat Preah Keo Morokat, which means “The Temple of the Emerald Buddha,” but has received the common moniker Silver Pagoda after the solid silver floor tiles that adorn the temple building.
Wall mural at the Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh
Visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum: Formerly a high school, the complex known as Toul Sleng, was converted into a prison, interrogation and torture facility by the Khmer Rouge in 1975.  Known simply as S-21, from 1975-1979 the prison processed and sent to execution over 17,000 people. Left largely in the condition it was found in 1979, the Tuol Sleng compound now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime.  It is an important site for understanding the history of modern Cambodia.
Accommodation is at Raffles Hotel Le Royal (Landmark Room) in Phnom Penh.
NOVEMBER 11TH: FLIGHT FROM PHNOM PENH TO SIEM REAP
Transfer to airport for your flight to Siem Reap, where we will be greeted by John Sanday’s old friend and renowned expert on Angkor, Sokhon Yeang, “Mr. Khon”, who will be our official guide during our visit to Angkor.  The visit begins in the afternoon with a guided tour of the temple complexes of Ta Som, Neak Pean, and Preah Khan.
Dancer at Preah Khan
Visit to Ta Som: Among the smallest temples of Angkor, Ta Som was built at the end of the 12th century for King Jayavarman VII. The King dedicated the temple to his father, Dharanindravarman II, who was King of the Khmer Empire from 1150 to 1160. The temple consists of a single shrine located on one level and surrounded by an enclosure of laterite walls.
Visit to Neak Pean: One of the most unique and beautiful designs of all Khmer architecture, Neak Pean, or the “Coiled Serpents,” is a small temple, which served as a ritual bathing place for pilgrims.  Seemingly rising from a lotus, which is floating on a pond and guarded by giant serpents, its design, layout and decoration is rich in symbolism recalling Buddhist mythology.
Gate at Preah Khan, Angkor
Visit to Preah Khan: Built in the 12th century for King Jayavarman VII, Preak Khan, the “Sacred Sword,” was among Angkor’s most active and complex religious sites populated by almost 100,000 officials, dancers, teachers and servants. The temple’s sacred plan, with its successive rectangular galleries around a Buddhist sanctuary orbited by a series of Hindu satellite temples, contains a spectacular array of Khmer sculpture and unique architectural forms.
Accommodation is as Raffles Grand Hotel d’ Angkor (Landmark Room) in Siem Reap.
Face Tower at Banteay Chhmar
NOVEMBER 12TH: OVERLAND SIEM REAP TO BANTEAY CHHMAR
This morning, we will take an overland transfer to Banteay Chhmar.  Lunch will served at the GHF House in Banteay Chhmar – a typical Khmer lunch of local vegetables from the market and fish home cooked by Sun, who has been John Sanday’s cook since 1992.
Banteay Chhmar
Visit to Banteay Chhmar: This afternoon, we will visit the Banteay Chhmar temple. John Sanday OBE, Regional Director of the Global Heritage Fund Asia and Pacific will lead the tour and will explain the interesting history of Banteay Chhmar and its relationship to Angkor. He will give you an insight into the GHF project at the site, including the moving, repairing and conserving of the massive stone blocks and the principles and philosophy of conserving and presenting such a site the size of Banteay Chhmar.  He and his team will demonstrate many of he innovative techniques being used at the site, including the development of a means of recording the structures using a 3D digital scanning program, which is currently under research.
Porch of a traditional guesthouse in Banteay Chhmar
Dinner will be a banquet under the stars, which will be prepared by Sun and her team, following a musical performance with drinks at the temple site.  The accommodation available in Banteay Chhmar will be in simple traditional houses involved in the local home stay program.  The rooms are spartan, clean, and there are newly installed showers and toilet facilities.  The local Community Based Tourism Project (CBT) hosts the program, which is an important aspect of the GHF’s community development work at Banteay Chhmar.
Community-Based Tourism Sign
NOVEMBER 13TH:  BANTEAY CHHMAR TO PREAH VIHEAR
Visit to The Community-Based Tourism Programme and The Silk Weaving Center: The Community-Based Tourism Programme is a vital part of Global Heritage Fund’s community development program at Banteay Chhmar.  Tourism is an excellent long-term, sustainable and low-impact way to improve the livelihoods of the community. The GHF, through its support of the CBT, is helping to protect the cultural heritage and environment, as well as increase income for villagers through tourism activities – home stays, tour guides, cooks and other activities.  Another important community development project is The Silk Center, which has been training young Cambodian women in the art of silk weaving since 2001.  Today, about a hundred people are actively contributing to the creation of Soieries du Mékong’s collections: weavers, seamstresses, embroiderers, and dyers. All creations are entirely handcrafted and reflect the talents of the local Khmer women.  This afternoon, we will drive to Saem Village, via Anglong Veng.  Dinner will then be served at Boutique Hotel Preah Vihear Boutique Hotel, where we will be staying the night
NOVEMBER 14TH: PRASAT PREAH VIHEAR
Visit to Preah Vihear Temple: an ancient temple built during the reign of Khmer Empire, situated atop a 525 metre (1,722 ft) cliff in the Dângrêk Mountains, in the Preah Vihear province.  Affording a spectacular view of the plains across the border in Thailand, Prasat Preah Vihear has the most amazing setting of all the temples built during the six century-long Khmer Empire. As a key edifice of the empire’s spiritual life, it was supported and modified by successive kings and so bears elements of several architectural styles. Preah Vihear is unusual among Khmer temples in being constructed along a long north-south axis, rather than having the conventional rectangular plan with orientation toward the east. The temple gives its name to Cambodia’s Preah Vihear province, in which it is now located, as well as the Khao Phra Wihan National Park which borders it in Thailand’s Sisaket province and through which the temple is most easily accessible. On July 7, 2008, Preah Vihear was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Tonight we will be staying in one of the hotels in the town of Tbeng Meancheay.
Khmer carvings at Angkor
NOVEMBER 15TH:  KOH KER AND BENG MEALEA
Visit to Koh Ker: Under the reign of the kings Jayavarman IV and Harshavarman II, Koh Ker was briefly the capital of the Khmer empire (928–944 AD). Jayavarman IV undertook an ambitious building program, which included the construction of about forty temples and an enormous baray (water-tank).  Unparalleled is the seven‑tiered pyramid, which at 36 metres (118 ft) high, probably served as the state temple of Jayavarman IV.
Visit to Beng Mealea: The “Lotus Pond” Temple from the early 11th Century built by Suryavarman II was built as a Hindu temple, but there are some carvings depicting Buddhist motifs as well.  Its primary material is sandstone and it is largely unrestored, with trees and thick brush thriving amidst its towers and courtyards, and many of its stones lying in great heaps.
Accommodation is at Raffles Grand Hotel d’ Angkor (Landmark Room) in Siem Reap.
Bas Relief of Battle Elephant at Angkor Wat
NOVEMBER 16TH: ANGKOR, BANTEAY SREI AND BANTEAY SAMRE
Visit to Angkor Wat: The largest temple in the world, with a volume of stone equaling that of the Cheops pyramid in Egypt, Angkor Wat is unlike all the other Khmer temples in that it faces west, and is inspired by 12th century Hinduism.  Its symmetrical towers are stylized on the modern Cambodian flag.  Conceived by Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took an estimated 30 years to build. It is generally believed to have been a funeral temple for the king.  It has been occupied continuously by Buddhist monks and is well preserved.  Intricate bas-reliefs surround Angkor Wat on four sides.  Each tells a story.  The most celebrated of these is the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, which is located on the east wing.  In it, the Naga serpent is twisted by demons and gods to spurt out the elixir of life.
Doorway at Banteay Srei
Visit to Banteay Srei: This afternoon, you drive to Banteay Srei, the citadel of women – a tiny, enchanting temple, which is one of the jewels in this remarkable city. Built of red sandstone in the tenth century and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the carved male and female figures in the niches are exquisitely executed in both style and proportion. This is the most Indian of all the temples in Angkor and in the words of H.W. Ponder, is a fairy palace in the heart of an immense and mysterious forest.  The quality of the stone carvings are exceptional – a factor which has made the temple extremely popular with tourists, and has led to its being widely praised as the “jewel of Khmer art.”
Banteay Samre
Visit to Banteay Samre: This is on the road back to Angkor, located east of the East Baray. Built under Suryavarman II and Yasovarman II in the early 12th century, it is a Hindu temple in the Angkor Wat style and one of the most complete temple complexes.  It also has a paved moat, a unique feature among Angkor’s temples.  We will then go to Abacus Restaurant for our farewell banquet.
Accommodation is at Raffles Grand Hotel d’ Angkor (Landmark Room) in Siem Reap.
Demons of The Causeway at Angkor Thom
NOVEMBER 17TH: SIEM REAP DEPARTURE
Visit to Angkor Thom: King Jayavarman VII established the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom or the “Great City,” in the late twelfth century. It covers an area of 9 km², within which are located several of Angkor’s greatest monuments from earlier eras, as well as those established by Jayavarman and his successors. At the centre of the city is Jayavarman’s state temple, the great Bayon, with the other major sites clustered around the Victory Square immediately to the north.
Visit to the Terrace of the Leper King: Faced with dramatic base-reliefs, the Terrace of the Leper King is so called after the naked statue of the Hindu god Yama, the god of death, a fifteenth century creation which, when discovered at the site, was discolored and covered with moss resembling leprosy.
Carving at Banteay Srei
Visit to the Terrace of the Elephants: With three main platforms, which are believed to have held three wooden pavilions, the Terrace of the Elephants is best known for its near life-size depictions in stone of elephants and their riders. Engaged in a hunt, the elephants are seen to use their trunks to fight against tigers, which furiously claw at them.
Visit to The Bayon: Built in the late 12th century or early 13th century as the official state temple of the King Jayavarman VII, the Bayon stands at the centre of Angkor Thom. The Bayon’s most distinctive feature is the multitude of massive stone faces on the many towers, which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak.
Transfer to the airport.
The total price per person (without flights) is US $ 3470 / UK £ 2227.  For further information, please contact Cathy Giangrande at [email protected]
or on +44 (0)7789 991 411, or visit www.globalheritagefund.org .
Interview by Fiona Sanderson and words by Hannah Norman
7th October 2013
“Squatters’ rights!” laughs Jose Koechlin when describing how he came to acquire the land for his hotels in Peru.  “When we started out, local government didn’t exist.  When we finally got recognition from the government, we were the first company to receive a concession to have a national park.”  Koechlin is the founder of Inkaterra , a Peruvian eco-tourism company that aims to sustain and conserve the rainforest of the Amazon basin in Peru.  “All this is possible because of tourism,” Koechlin says of the on-going research into protecting the flora and animal species that Inkaterra has assumed responsibility for.  “Tourism is good because it translates into money to fund research.”
Set up in 1975, Inkaterra was founded to promote but ultimately protect the eco-systems of the Peruvian rainforest, as well as the customs and cultures of the local populations, through the concept of eco-tourism.  “Via tourism, you can create knowledge, and then pass on knowledge,” Koechlin says.  The company now has five hotels, with plans for several more, including one in the grounds of a Jesuit cathedral.  In the process, Inkaterra has raised money from its tourism ventures to fund the vital research that helps the conservation efforts across the basin.  At the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, for instance, they have restored five hectares of cloud forest, “by looking at the birds and what they would like to eat.”  This understanding of the delicate balance between animal populations and a reliable food chain has led the region to flourish.  “It is a paradise,” Koechlin smiles.  “Now, within the hotel, we have 205 bird species.  We have big birds, small birds and eighteen species of hummingbird.  We also found orchids there.  Nobody could tell the name [of the orchid], so it was a new species for science.  This year, there have been three orchids, and last year, it was two orchids, all new to science.  So that’s an extraordinary thing, that a tourist company can describe new species to science.”
Koechlin is perhaps being modest.  He reveals that in 2005, “Cornell University Press published a book in our name, on the lives and appearances of reptiles.”  That book was William E. Duellman’s Cusco Amazónico, and was hailed by the University Press as being “the baseline against which all future studies of Amazonian amphibians and reptiles (and even other organisms) will be compared.”  When pushed, it transpires that Koechlin not only knows this but can quote the comment by heart, evidence of how justly proud he is of his life’s work.
But it’s not just plants and birds that hold Koechlin’s interest.  As well as setting up a butterfly breeding facility and rehabilitating bears back into the wild (just two of many conservation projects), he is also looking at restoring the ocean.  “In the 1950s, this beautiful ocean was called Marlin Boulevard,” he explains.  “Why was it called Marlin Boulevard?  Because of the big, black marlins.  They were abundant here.  The record for the biggest fish ever caught here was 1560 pounds.  This year marks sixty years of that record, so we decided why not bring back the ocean to what it was?”  He adds that, “we pushed the government to create the first marine park in Peru.  The government came back and said, we can’t handle it – why don’t you handle it?!”
Aside from the preservation of the biodiversity of the ocean, there is another reason for wanting to protect this stretch of coastline.  During August, several events took place to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of the big marlin catch, and Koechlin was taking part because “the visible thing to show is the boat that the fisherman had – that’s the Miss Texas.  When this big fish was caught, by chance on another boat, there was a film crew from Warner Brothers, and so there is footage of it.”  But the reason for the film crew?  “The Miss Texas is the boat that Hemingway used to go fishing,” Koechlin reveals.  “[The film crew] couldn’t get a good shot elsewhere, so they went to Peru to film The Old Man And The Sea.”
Koechlin is in the process of restoring the boat to its former glory.  “It is a nice story to tell,” he says.  But of his coastal conservation efforts, he adds that “to make it happen is not easy.  But the local people are with us, and the fishermen.  They want to protect the ocean as well.”  In the future, Koechlin plans to open a research centre here (for research into natural and marine resources, as well as training on ocean fishing) and a hotel, to continue to obtain the money to fund his work.  Such a prime location will, of course, provide tourists with  “the pleasure of having an ocean view.”
Inkaterra has certainly come a long way since it opened its first hotel, a simple jungle lodge, nearly forty years ago, having now evolved into a range of hotels that are (almost) as diverse as the terrains on which they are situated.  This is nature travel at its most authentic, where history is created through an ongoing understanding of the unique but ultimately beguiling biodiversity of the basin.  Long may Koechlin’s work continue.
Inkaterra Hotels
Inkaterra La Casona was the first Relais & Châteaux hotel in Peru and is an exquisite 16th century colonial mansion.
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica is a luxury eco-lodge located on the banks of the Madre de Dios river and at the edge of the Tambopata Reserve in the Amazon rainforest of Southern Peru.
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is located in the Amazon rainforest near a natural lake, which is home to a variety of ecosystems, tropical plants and wildlife.
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel is a fusion of opulent comfort, excellent cuisine and Incan style, located within five hectares of cloud forest.
El MaPi Hotel byInkaterra has been completely renovated in a contemporary urban style.
For more information, visit www.inkaterra.com .
30th August 2013
Château Pape Clément
Is there really anything better than being chauffeur driven in a Bentley once owned by Ian Fleming, before being given the keys to your own castle, all the while being plied with hearty French food and Merlot?  Well, perhaps just one thing – being flown by helicopter from chateau to chateau to UNESCO world heritage site, all whilst sampling some of the finest wines to have come out of Bordeaux.
La Cave at Château Pape Clément
But before I get entirely carried away with the sheer degree of deliciousness, let’s remind ourselves of why I was here….I was in the heart of south west France’s wine-growing territory for a tour of the vineyards, cellars and chateaux of Bernard Magrez , one of France’s prominent wine-makers.  Increased consumer sophistication has created a rise in the demand to get closer to brands, and in response to this, Bernard Magrez has developed the concept of Luxury Wine Tourism, a bespoke holiday experience quite literally a world away from the anonymous package tour of old.
Rolls Royce Phantom – be chauffeur driven in style!
The choice of experiences on offer here is simply astounding.  From chauffeur-driven cars to helicopter tours across the valley, to private wine tastings with the knowledgeable cellar masters to blending your very own bottle of wine (on a personal note, I recommend doing this – lots of fun!), there is plenty of opportunity to soak up the history and heritage of the brand.
Château Pape Clément
Our base for our trip was the quiet romance of Chateau Pape Clement, where we were given a tour of the majestic wine cellars, which are all under the chateau (complete with a recumbent effigy of the eponymous Pope Clement V!).  After sampling four of the chateau’s delicious, earthy wines, we enjoyed a cookery master class with Chef Jerome Bourcie.   I’m really not much of a chef (so I was pleased to see that the supper Chef Bourcie had prepared for us afterwards was all of his own doing, as opposed to my rather poor attempt at fine cuisine!).
Château La Tour Carnet
The following day saw us whisked off by helicopter across the stunning vista of the Médoc valleys, where vineyards stretched for as far as the eye could see, with the occasional castle dotting the picturesque landscape.  Touching down opposite Chateau La Tour Carnet, with the warmth of the French sun shining down, it was all too easy to be seduced by the beauty and the romance of one of the region’s oldest castles.  Sympathetically restored to something like its former glory, the chateau has all the trappings one would expect for a day of playing king of the castle.  Although it isn’t consecrated – yet – I couldn’t help but think that the tiny private chapel and intimate, beautifully furnished dining room would make the perfect setting for a wedding (on that point, Bernard Magrez does offer weddings at other chateaux, but book early – as in, a year in advance – to avoid disappointment!).
The Dining Room at Château La Tour Carnet
For those who love their history, a Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Tourism holiday is the ideal getaway.  Not only is there the history of the brand and the chateaux to discover, but the town of Saint Emilion (a UNESCO world heritage site) is perfect for an afternoon stroll, aided by one of the friendly guides to explain its unique history, followed perhaps by an aperitif outside one of the local cafes.  For panoramic photo opportunities, standing at the base of the bell tower of Europe’s largest underground church provides the perfect height to get a good glimpse across the rooftops of the town below (although the only way to truly take in Saint Emilion is from the air.  Just as well we had a helicopter at our disposal!).
Fly by helicopter, or arrive in style on a private jet!
Whether you’re a committed connoisseur or simply enjoy the odd tipple, a Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Tourism holiday ticks so many boxes.  It sounds like a journalistic cliché to say, but this really is one experience that cannot adequately be described with words, so you’ll just have to get out here and savour it for yourself.  Make space in your suitcase for all the wine you’ll be purchasing – trust me, you won’t regret it!
Barrels at Château Pape Clement
For further information about Bernard Magrez wines, visit www.bernard-magrez.com .  For further information about the tours and experiences on offer, or to book a Luxury Wine Tourism holiday, visit www.luxurywinetourism.fr .
27th August 2013
The itinerary for our 8 days in Bhutan gets to us two weeks before departure, listing
a hot-stone bath in a local farm-house, horse-treks up to the Tigers’ Nest, visits to musically named Dzongs, temples and monasteries, walks high-up at 3800mt on the Dochu La and even an audience with Doctor Karma Phuntso about the principles of Buddhism and meditation. Will it all get ticked off?
Marina, my cultural attachée, gets set on this most unique trip and reading up on our material provided by Choki of Blue Poppy, we realise it is only since the 1970s that a few, fortunate visitors have been able to tour Bhutan. We will have a 4X4 Hyundai at our disposal, which later gets nick-named the Korean guest-house by our English-speaking driver and guide when it became their lodging for a night or two down in Punakha.  Meanwhile, we stayed at the Amankora lodges (Aman meaning peace, Kora meaning circuit).
Upon arrival in Bhutan, our guide Rinchen, and Tshering, our driver, are outside the airport, dressed in their elegant national costume: a heavy knee-length robe, a gho, belted at the waist and folded to allow for a pocket on the chest for the all-essential mobile phone, notes, passes and cash for the temples. By order of His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wanghuck of Bhutan, also casually known as K5, all Bhutanese dress in their national costume during daylight hours, which means very little external influence and sloppy Western denim and tees can be seen on the streets.
The drive to Thimpu is equally manicured, and takes us just under an hour, through a leafy green countryside, and then through the city, which is buzzing with new Bhutanese-style buildings being constructed inside the bamboo scaffolding. No signs or billboards about new movie releases or cheap flights along the way – so refreshing!
Amankora – Thimpu
Our first night is at the 16-suite Amankora – Thimpu lodge, a dzong-inspired white construction set above the capital, where a colourful local dance is taking place to welcome guests. The wood-panelled rooms, low comfortable seating, high windows and floating wooden staircases have a calming influence, and in good Aman-style, we are greeted by a courteous and elegant Bhutanese young lady, called Sonam (meaning good luck), who speaks immaculate English and offers us warm, lightly-scented towels to refresh ourselves. There is no noise from the urban centre below, just birdsong and the crackling of the logs in the fire pit. Aman is unique in creating an atmosphere that mirrors the peaceful place within the mind where all stands still.
The first visit to the colourful Trashi Chhoe Dzong (fort-monastery) in town is of course memorable. The sun is sharp, the gardens and roses around the whitewashed two-storey structure are being tended to and the inner dochey (courtyard) of the monastic quarter is humming with monks in their red flowing robes. We try our first hand at spinning the prayer-wheels, to give the hundreds of prayers rolled inside continuous life, feeling a little self-conscious of this important Buddhist ritual. The temple inside is a burst of colour, patterns, patch-work and carpets, and a hundred natural smells of bark, flowers, leaves, fruit and roots surround us, coming from the organic incense burning day and night under the great Buddha’s toes. We could have just sat there for hours, watching, smelling and not thinking, but a quick (rather frivolous) shopping-spree on the high street is planned, and we buy interesting woven textiles, natty silk Bhutanese jackets, beads and hand-made papers, before heading back for the scheduled meeting with the great master of Buddhism and former monk, PHD at Oxford and former researcher at Cambridge: Doctor Karma Phuntsho.
Karma arrives ten minutes before time. We see him crossing the inner courtyard from the large bedroom windows. He wears a sober chocolate brown gho (bespoke, he adds later), and the regulation immaculate white cuffs and cream socks (the latter a sign of a higher rank to those wearing dark socks) with dark brown shoes. The only ornament is a wooden rosary, with a well-worn patina, wrapped loosely around his left wrist. He later tells us this is the tool of prayer and meditation, and it is his constant reminder for mindfulness. As we speak about life, Bhutan, Cambridge, the temptations of London, religion, food, urges, sex, yoga, visualisation and meditation, we cannot help but notice his calmness and presence throughout the topics.
His mind is focused and sharp, his answers deep and to the point. His knowledge of western religion and philosophy is vast, and he draws easy parallels with Buddhism: a delight for the spirit. One statement stirs the mind, as he says that when in London, he likes to meditate on the underground, in the chaos of this space. A most unlikely venue, we say, but being trapped inside, he finds the challenge of the bustle of life and noise a useful interference to work and train with. He doesn’t like to waste time and as he says that, his phone rings with a Chinese voice-alarm to remind him of his Mandarin lesson. He rejects the notice, and joins us for dinner instead, to reflect further on the four truths of Buddhism: Loving Kindness, Compassion, Joy and Equanimity.
Amankora – Punakha
Reaching Punakha after three hours of bumpy roads and temple stops on the highest peaks whipped with soft clouds, we wind our way down the zig-zagging dusty roads, enjoying the witty company and local tales of Rinchen and Tshering Dorji of Blue Poppy Tours, who have travelled on with us on the Kora (the circular pilgrimage) of the Aman lodges. The stop at Dochu-La, at 3140mt, is an absolute must and it is marked by a large array of prayer flags, which we add ours to, and an impressive new-build collection of 108 chortens, set overlooking the magnificent Himalayan peaks.
After the stop at Druk Yangyel Lhakhang, sitting on the crest of Dochu-La pass, we hear the Royal K5 couple had apparently just been by, calling into their Royal verandah to consider the peaks. We drive on and wind down again to ground zero all the way to Punakha and to the much-anticipated rickety bridge, which crosses a very lively Mo Chhu River. Once we park up, we consider the Indiana Jones style crossing, and start out, treading niftily across the planks, keeping a steady eye on the end of the traverse as the bridge swoops down closer to the ice-blue water and up again the other side.
As Rinchen had explained, the Aman-buggy awaits us under the shade of the weeping willows lining the river-bank. It’s a 5* buggy with a difference, as it has been kitted out with a hand-made dashboard carved from the local pines. We are in for attention to detail. We cannot quite believe where we are, suddenly winding through paddy fields glistening in the evening sun, and beyond, we can hear the bells ringing in the distant prayer wheels. One last turn, and there stands the Lodge with its eight suites, which was built approximately eighty years ago by Je Khenpo (the supreme religious leader in the Kingdom).
Image courtesy of Amanresorts
The Lodge is a traditional farmhouse, set in an orange orchard, overlooking endless rice terraces stepping up the hills, and layered mountains stacked up beyond in shades of dusk. The interiors are beautifully hand-painted, and navy blue wooden staircases run throughout and the open windows make every room airy, allowing a connection with the day or night outside. The courtyard below is set for breakfasts, lunches and dinners, which are served under an aged fig tree. As night falls, a fire-pit burns to light up the house and announce a group of Bhutanese dancers, who sing a series of local chants and songs, which, to our great surprise, we are invited to join in on. At first, it is a strange experience, but then the music, the rhythm of their steps, the light of the fire and the history we are all steeped in, make this welcome ritual quite unique. Anything here would melt the hardest hearts.
The next day, a cool breeze flows in the day-room in Amankora – Punakha, and outside, we hear the sound of gentle scrubbing on the flagstones.  I recall the routines in Amanwella in Sri Lanka : I know I am at an Aman. Today’s activity here though, is about cleaning, and at the same time, tidying up the neat little droppings a mother-bird has left, whilst feeding her three young chicks huddled under the fig tree, as they are not quite savvy-enough to take flight into the clear blue skies. The staff at Punakha, naturally connecting to their inner Buddhist principles, ensure their safety, as these birds may well be reincarnations of one of their family members, who have passed away….it is a beautiful connection. In all these details, once again, you can appreciate the pleasure Adrian Zecha must have enjoyed in finding and creating this most idyllic outpost for Amankora – Punakha, set in this green sunny valley away from the dancing prayer flags, but surrounded in tranquillity and rest for the soul.
Amankora – Paro
Winding our way back towards Paro on day five, we are getting closer to the airport for our last two nights, where architectural style continues to mix subtly with the Bhutanese cultural experience. As we arrive at the third lodge, we note the similarities in the modular architectural format, which are creating a continuity in our stay, yet giving each resort an individual identity brought out in the furniture, the local woods and the natural beauty of the surroundings. Upon arrival at Amankora – Paro, we walk through a forest and onto a deep pathway of thick, fresh, rust-coloured pine needles, which give out an incredible pine-oil aroma. The main reception lies up an impressive staircase and once inside, we see an elegant old man sitting on the floor, block printing prayer flags by the sofa in his immaculate Bhutanese gho. These flags are for guests to take up to the Tiger’s Nest during this part of the stay. We enjoy a convivial dinner with Bradlie Goian, the resident manager at Amankora – Paro.
Image courtesy of Amanresorts
We are then up at 6am and join our guides at the stables where horses wait to walk us up to the Taktshang Goemba, the Tigers’ Nest monastery. With this iconic spectacle finally within our reach, I wonder how we will cope with any fear of heights as we trek up and up towards 900m to see these colourful temples huddled into the rock-face overlooking the Paro valley. This journey continues to surprise, and once up at the top, we comply with the required prostrations, which we run through smoothly now, with Rinchen setting the pace. It is said that Guru Rinpoche flew to this holy site on the back of a tigress (a manifestation of his consort Yeshe Tsogyal) to subdue the local demon. He then meditated here for three months, creating a hub for all Bhutanese pilgrims, until a great fire in 1998 destroyed the main structure. Fortunately, as a focal point in Bhutan, it was soon rebuilt to its current state with the contributions requested by the Royal Family from every Bhutanese national. We thank you all for this.
Our one-week journey ends here in Paro, and casting our minds back, we feel this country has something fairy-tales are made of, hidden in these deep green forests of natural beauty. Since the 7th century, birds have sung from dawn till dusk, flags have fluttered day in, day out and the mesmerising hum of Buddhist chants has been on-going every day, while high winds have swept immense clouds across the highest mountain tops rising to 7,000 metres. Bhutan’s thin air and lack of pollution give a most vivid quality to the visual experience and we are left with the impression that our eyes and minds have never lived a clearer day.
Getting There
Bhutan will change, but before it does, discover this most extraordinary space and its unique service and experiences with Amankora: www.amanresorts.com , in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Bumthang & Gangtey. Tel: 00 800 2255 2626.
Blue Poppy Tours & Treks: www.bluepoppybhutan.com .  Tel +44 (0)20 7609 2029, for all travel, treks, visas and ground transport services.
DrukAir is the national carrier of the Royal Government of Bhutan: www.drukair.com .
Required Interesting Reading
By Hannah Norman
21st August 2013
A picturesque walk along the beach followed by a surfing lesson, before being whisked off in a chauffeur-driven Rolls Royce Corniche convertible for a half-day pampering session at Harrods, to then return to sink into a sumptuous bed by a warming, wood-burning stove – sounds like the perfect holiday, right?  This, however, is not for humans, but for our four-legged friends, courtesy of The Paw Seasons.
A five star “hotel” for dogs run by the lovely Jenny Hytner-Marriott, The Paw Seasons is a kennel-free retreat, allowing your dog plenty of fresh air, exercise (watch this video! )….and no end of luxury extras, should you feel persuaded to over-indulge your dog (admit it, don’t we all?!)
The Paw Seasons has several locations across the south west of England, which cater for your dog depending on age and breed.  Walks include the five miles of sandy beach near Burnham-on-Sea, and Gloucestershire’s National Arboretum, allowing your dog to get in touch with his inner tree-hugger.  For a more relaxed tour of the scenic West Country, dogs can even board a Dunkirk little ship for a river cruise around historic Bristol Harbour.
Whilst owners are requested to supply their own food for their furry friend, The Paw Seasons are more than happy to accommodate any dietary extras (organic steak, anyone?)
The luxury extras don’t stop there. As well as offering a shuttle service from your home to theirs (saving you time whilst you’re running out of the door to catch your plane), The Paw Seasons use the same service to transport your pooch up the M4 to the Pet Spa at Harrods for a luxurious pamper session. Once your pet is happily ensconced back at The Paw Seasons, they can relax on one of the doggy beds set up around the cosy, kitchen wood-burner.  Of course, if your dog’s tastes in sleeping quarters are a little more refined, Bespoke Impact can create a replica of your home for your dog to sleep in instead.  Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase, “in the dog house!”
Speaking of being in the doghouse, if your troublesome terrier or mischievous Maltese needs a little help in the behavioural department (don’t worry, mine too!), The Paw Seasons offer the services of Stan Rawlinson , a canine behaviour specialist and obedience trainer.
Just in case you’re concerned that your dog might be having a better holiday than you are, The Paw Seasons staff use their Facebook page to upload snaps of your dog dashing about the country-side so that you can see what they’re up to.  It really is a dog’s life!
To book a holiday for your dog at The Paw Seasons, go to www.thepawseasons.co.uk .
By Saira Malhotra
15th August 2013
When the heat dials up and gets trapped by NYC’s skyscrapers, there is a charming place to seek refuge: Mohonk Mountain House, a national Historic Landmark, which lies deep between the peaks and troughs of the Hudson Valley.
Once there, you can check your sweaty, tired self at the door and prepare for Mohonk Mountain house to pamper, rejuvenate and feed you well. Being rated as being the Number One Resort Spa in the United States and within the top ten for Green Spas around the world, one is offered all kinds of treatments from Mohonk Red Massage using property-grown witch hazel to Peace In The Pool with Tai Chi and meditation.
With a spa perched above the trees in one corner of the House, the rest of the house is a place you can call home, with milk and homemade biscuits served to all the guests at tea-time (have as many as you want, no-one is watching!), children scurrying to the Kids Club where they are taught tennis, meet animals and get together every evening again (for non-cheesy entertainment).  And for you, there are acres of grounds to hike, boat, horse-ride, swim and play golf.
As the evening draws in, it is nice to take your glass of wine to one of the many porches that line the House and watch the sunset over the mountains. The clean air will certainly make you work up an appetite and the House’s restaurants will be happy to oblige with locally sourced ingredients and an international touch with ingredients like cumin and lemongrass.
The drive from Manhattan is one hour and 20 minutes – a perfect local retreat for the city dweller.
Mohonk Mountain House Spa , 1000 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz, N.Y.; (877) 877-2664.
Saira Malhotra is a chef, food writer and cooking instructor based in New York City. To see more of her work, visit www.passportpantry.com .
By The Luxury Channel
24th July 2013
Following on from its success last year, the Peligoni Club has announced the return of the September Club, inviting guests to treat themselves to an indulgent break and the chance to soak up some late summer sun on the stunning Greek island of Zakynthos. The September Club is an adult-only, week-long, child-free break – perfect for socialising, water-sports and relaxation.
This follows the success of the first ever September Club in 2012, and even if you’re not able to commit to a full week, then long weekend options are available too.
The September Club has been carefully planned to include everything that the Peligoni Club usually offers guests at other times of the year, only more grown up! During the week, guests can take part in everything from backgammon tutorials and tennis coaching, to wine-tasting and water-skiing, mixing with like-minded people and enjoying some much-needed “me time” at the end of the busy summer period.
The Peligoni Club offers a wide range of accommodation options available to guests throughout the week, ranging in style, size and location. Choose from hilltop villas with infinity pools and far-reaching views which lend themselves perfectly for large groups, or for those looking for something more intimate, smaller properties are also available, which can be found nestled in the hills, surrounded by olive groves. Solo travelers are also welcome and Mimi’s B&B proves to be a popular fuss-free option located just a ten minute walk from The Club.
The Peligoni Club’s ( www.peligoni.com ; 020 8740 3001) September Club is a week-long event, which includes all activities with breakfast, lunch and dinner provided at The Club or local tavernas on a daily basis (drinks are only included with breakfast).
By The Luxury Channel
16th July 2013
The Oberoi Group has announced the opening of The Oberoi, Dubai – the Group’s first property in the United Arab Emirates. The hotel overlooks the iconic Burj Khalifa and each of the 252 rooms and suites has floor to ceiling windows, which afford spectacular views of the city’s skyline.  The Oberoi, Dubai also boasts the city’s first ever 24 hour Spa.  The hotel enjoys a central location and is a few minutes drive from downtown Dubai and the Dubai Mall. Legendary service delivered by attentive and caring team members will make The Oberoi, Dubai the preferred choice for discerning business and leisure travellers to the United Arab Emirates.
Mr. P.R.S. Oberoi, Executive Chairman of The Oberoi Group said, “We are pleased to present The Oberoi, Dubai, which offers the highest standards of luxury and hospitality. The opening of the hotel is significant for us.  A number of Oberoi Hotels have been consistently recognised as amongst the best in the world.  I am confident that The Oberoi, Dubai will continue this tradition.”
For more information, go to www.oberoihotels.com/oberoi_dubai .
26th June 2013
Christian the lion and George Adamson
Journey through Kenya with Exceptional Travel, escorted by John Rendall, co-author of A Lion Called Christian, the best selling story of the lion Christian, whom he bought from Harrods in London, with fellow Australian Ace Bourke.
Christian lived with John and Ace on the Kings Road in Chelsea but when Christian ‘out grew’ his surroundings, George Adamson (of Born Free fame), accepted the challenge of rehabilitating him back into the wild. Christian was successfully rehabilitated in Kora National Park in Kenya, with George describing it as a “monument to a mischievous and brave little lion from England.”
After successful safaris throughout the last few years, John will lead this unique safari through Kenya again in 2013. As a Trustee of the George Adamson Wildlife Preservation Trust and original co-owner of Christian, there is no better person to showcase the lives of the Adamsons and escort you on safari through Christian’s final home.  To view a full itinerary, click here .
Estimated cost is £5,250 per person sharing, excluding international flights. Single supplement available on request.  Space is strictly limited to ten spaces.  Get in touch quoting “The Adamson Trail” to enquire about availability and booking, by calling +44 (0)845 163 5883, or send a message .  For more information about Exceptional Travel, visit www.exceptional-travel.com .
By Hannah Norman
15th April 2013
“Flying at speed on snow-mobiles across freshly-deposited powder in the dark is an experience unlike any other, with just the roar of the engines and the beam of the headlights to guide us.”
Port d’Envalira (image courtesy of Jordi Troguet).
Once upon a time, a destination holiday was all about how far you could travel, and how exotic your destination vacation was.  Times have changed however, and the trend today is not so much how far you can go, but what you can experience once you’re there.  Hidden high up in the Pyrénées between the borders of France and Spain lies the tiny country of Andorra.  Despite being surrounded by beautiful, rugged mountain landscapes,  it would seem that this  little gem is deservedly being put back on the map by a group of business entrepreneurs. Targeting the Russian market through the web portal cometoandorra.ru , the business partners have asked Russian model Dasha Kapustina to act as the figurehead of their campaign.  Known as an international model and girlfriend to Formula One ace Fernando Alonso, Dasha’s appeal is obvious, as she embodies exactly the young, fun, fashionable credentials that the Andorrans are hoping to attract.
Dasha was in Andorra to shoot a series of photos which will be used to promote the Andorran tourist trade, and I was invited along to experience this exclusive, access-all-areas event, by Stephanie Steinbrecht-Aleix and Txeco Llorens.
Arriving in balmy Barcelona, I was chauffeur driven the 3 hours to my base for the next 3 days, Sports Hermitage Hotel , a 5* ski resort set at the top of the mountains.  It’s worth mentioning that if you decide to take a hire car instead, there’s no shortage of places to fill up.   Also, Real Madrid fans, look away now – the drive also means that you end up going past Barcelona’s impressive Nou Camp.
The Sports Hermitage Hotel
Arriving as I did at the hotel in the town of Soldeu – in the pitch black at 9 o’clock at night – meant that I couldn’t fully appreciate my surreal and beautiful surroundings, and the only real indication I had of how high up I really was came from my popping ears as we’d climbed further up into the mountains!  Although driving through the capital, Andorra La Vella, with the shop lights illuminating our way just as the snow was starting to fall, gave the pretty scene a slightly ethereal feel.
Dinner that night, in Restaurant Origens, with Stephanie and Txeco, Dasha and Luis Garcia Abad (Fernando Alonso’s manager), and hotel owner Josep Calbó, came courtesy of resident Michelin starred chef Nandu Jubary.  The Sports Hermitage has two chefs (Jubary is one, and Carles Graig is the other). The delicious array of food we were offered (some 10 different dishes, to be precise!) was exquisite, with every single detail catered for.  I don’t eat seafood and Dasha is a vegetarian, but the attentive staff took care of our every gastronomic need.  The chicken cannelloni with truffle cream was a taste sensation, and just one word sums up the pumpkin gnocchi – sublime!
Sports Hermitage chefs Nandu Jubany and Carles Graig
Next day, we went to Inúu Wellness Spa , situated in the heart of the capital.   Inúu is a new concept entirely.  Although the Spa is open from 10 in the morning until 10 at night, what you pay for at Inúu is time.  Whilst there is a flat basic rate of 65 Euros for the whole day, they really want you to experience the wellness side of things, and you leave with a whole new attitude to wellbeing.  Subsequently, upon arrival, all guests are given a health MOT, to ascertain exactly what they need in terms of wellness.  You then tell them how much time you have, and they’ll devise a programme for you accordingly, depending on what you need and how long you’ve got.  This is a spa that essentially takes the stress out of decision-making for the time-poor client, allowing you to focus solely on yourself.
Inúu Wellness Spa (image courtesy of Laia Buira Images)
COO Beatriz Fernandez gave me a guided tour of the facility, designed by French architect Jean Michel Ruols, granting me access to the thermal hydropool, with the temperature of the thermal spring water set at a blissful 34 degrees, and the saunas, steam rooms and halotherapy chamber.  Having explored upstairs, Beatriz took me on a tour of the treatment rooms downstairs, by way of a spiral staircase encircling a giant fish tank, where Dasha was attempting to encourage the fish to swim behind her for a photo.
Dasha at Inúu Wellness Spa
The treatment rooms are strategically split off in a clover shape depending on what you’re opting for, be it shiatsu massage or simply the chance to chill out for fifteen minutes and grab some much-needed shut-eye!  For couples looking for a cosy retreat (anyone got an anniversary coming up?), Inúu also has a private treatment room, for up to four people, with a Jacuzzi and massage beds.  Heaven! (Especially at just 250 Euros for a minimum of two and a half hours).
As hard as it was, I had to tear myself away from Inúu, as we were heading to Anyós Park , a wellness resort located up in the mountains a mere 10 minute drive away.  This is where the great and good (by which I mean the southern Spanish sporting elite – namely a few Barca FC pros) come to exercise, away from the attentions of the Spanish press.  Anyós Park is owned by Carles Naudi D’Areny Plandolit Balsells (whose paternal great-grandfather, randomly enough, was instrumental in setting up the Magic Circle in Spain.  It’s amazing the trivia you uncover!).  Set over 5000 sq metres, the resort is a sort of one-stop shop for health, and in addition to the gym, sports facilities, pools and AquaSpa (a water zone encompassing cascades, massage benches and water beds), Anyós Park is also home to Carita Paris, exclusive beautician’s treatment rooms to beautify you again after an intense workout.  Speaking of workouts, that’s exactly what was in store for Dasha – after posing first on comfy cushions and then amidst the quiet serenity of the private pool, the model was then photographed exercising on a cross-trainer.  Don’t think that modeling is in any way an easy life!
Anyos Park
The problem with working out, despite the obvious benefits, is that it leaves you hungry, so our next stop was the Pyrénées Andorra Department Store , specifically La Boheme restaurant, for lunch, not to mention another photoshoot and change of clothes for Dasha (and on that note, I was rather coveting her Burberry tote).  A stroll through the mall to get to our next photocall had me eyeing the gorgeous silk dresses and butter-soft leather handbags.  Cashmere Shop-owned store Sant Hubertus provided the cosy, “hunter’s lodge” inspired backdrop for the next shoot (not to mention the on-trend hat Dasha had donned for the photos).  Incidentally, whilst we’re on the subject of going shopping, if you’re still not inspired to come here, it’s worth pointing out that Andorra is something of a tax-free haven, so everything costs far less than it would do elsewhere (to the tune of around 40% less, in fact).
Dasha at Sant Hubertus
As evening approached, our final port of call was to Gala Perfumeries , the make-up and perfume company who had provided all of Dasha’s make-up.  After a quick scout through the shop, testing lip-gloss and perfumes as we went, we took our places for Dasha’s final shoot of the day.  It’s not every day you walk into a shop and see your name displayed on a dressing table, but for our girl, that’s exactly what happened.  It was a nice touch, and is indicative of the Andorran spirit – nothing is too much trouble, and they’re happy to go the extra mile.
Dasha at Gala Perfumeries
We arrived back at the hotel with barely an hour and a half before meeting for our evening’s activity – snow-mobiling!
Believe me, you don’t need to be an adrenalin junkie to love this!  Flying at speed across freshly-deposited powder in the dark is an experience unlike any other, with just the roar of the engines and the beam of the headlights to guide us.  Competitive types beware, however – whilst speed is most definitely of the essence, mountain etiquette dictates that you aren’t allowed to overtake, so racing is out of the question!  Seriously, though, don’t let that put you off – this is quite possibly the most fun you can have with a helmet on!
Dasha goes snow-mobiling
Our next stop was the Sol i Neu Club Hermitage restaurant, where the entire group (some 20 of us) sat down for dinner together.  We sampled such delights as potato and Catalan sausage cake, and Catalan stew with meatballs (very welcome after an evening out in the snow!) and another first for me – grilled artichoke (no, really – I’d never tried artichoke before!).
The following morning brought a big snowstorm, putting paid to the day’s plan of moshing (that’s dog-sledding to you and me), and of visiting GrandValira , one of six sites shortlisted for Best European Resort at the 2012 World Snow Awards in London.  A ski centre with 210 kilometres of runs, including two World Cup courses and 4 freestyle parks (one of which is nocturnal), GrandValira is also home to the Igloo Bar and Hotel.  Whilst the idea of staying in an igloo has a slight romantic charm, what is marginally concerning is that its website recommends that you should only book to stay here if you dare – perhaps the snowstorm was just as well!
Not to be undone, Dasha’s photoshoots for the day were simply moved to our hotel, which meant cosying up in front of the fire and relaxing on the plush sofas that adorned the reception.
Relaxing at The Sports Hermitage Hotel
Before long, however, my chauffeur had arrived to take me back down the mountains to Barcelona.  Leaving the snow and the peaks behind me, I settled back into the leather and let myself be lulled to sleep.
Having never been to this stunning principality before, I arrived in Andorra with an open mind, and was seduced completely by the beauty of the landscape and the spirit of the people.  Dasha was adamant that she will be back – but for a holiday, so that she can enjoy herself to the full.  I’m inclined to concur.  The ski season may well be coming to an end (roll on next winter!), but Andorra is also a fantastic place to discover during the summer, too (for the golfers among you, visit www.tee-times.info ).  Andorra may not be the last word in luxury, but this is one hidden gem that’s definitely worth visiting.  It’s unlikely to stay a secret for long, so get here quick before the hordes descend!
By Rosalind Milani Gallieni
3rd April 2013
Curious to explore new destinations in Eastern Europe, for winter sports and summer holidays, we head to Bulgaria to get a sense of the history and status quo of this beautiful country, and by creating a mixed itinerary, we get a glimpse of the real life in town and how luxury is “done” up in the hills.
Once out of Sofia airport, we drive through the large sprawling town, which is a mix of buildings dating back to the communist era, creating a dull horizon of concrete apartment blocks, with row upon row of balconies boasting TV satellite discs, laundry lines and fridges, all stored on the outside for lack of space inside. Beside these dilapidated structures stand tall, smart, contemporary glass office buildings and a scattering of modern hotels all in strategic places for the use of foreign business travellers landing nearby, coming to set a plan and a future in motion in this new destination.
All eras of history co-exist in this city, and beyond an eternal flame which burns out of a monumental dark marble bolder, comes the rattle of every-day traffic rushing down the cobbled streets. We join the local cars and beaten-up vans and trucks, and head off out of town.
Half-way to our destination, we stop to visit a religious revelation: an old man sits selling both yellowing lace place-mats and hand-written tickets for the 10th century Boyana Church, which is now part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, boasting 3 layers of delicate frescoes dating back between the 10th and 13th century. Hidden in a small wood of fir trees, this treasure looks rather like a page out of a Hansel And Gretel picture book. A set of large ancient steel keys lie on an old rickety wooden bench outside and we wait for Ilia, who is talking loudly to visitors inside the chapel as we arrive.
An extraordinary treasure awaits us…the heavy steel door opens, and out springs a wiry old man, releasing his previous visitors from their unique experience.  Inside, we are all a-gasp as we walk into the tiniest chapel painted entirely – walls, nave and ceilings – in midnight blue, with the most exquisitely peaceful frescoes.
Our journey then continues up beautiful mountain roads, and we pass through pretty ski-resort villages, with snow-clad chalets and chair-lifts whizzing happy skiers up the hills. In total contrast to the town that now lies behind us, we take in all the changing landscapes and holiday possibilities, and the immense heritage of Bulgaria.
The sights of Bhutan come to mind. Maybe it is something about the fir trees growing in the heart of these villages, their silhouettes cast against the white walls? Maybe it is the houses stacked up on the hills with their dark window frames and grey slate roofs dotted with smoking chimneys? Maybe it is the local folk and their colourful carpets which line the street walls? But today we know we are in Bulgaria, as the pagan Kukeri festival of every first Sunday in March is in full swing, expelling the evil spirits of winter, and bringing in the fertility of spring.
Villa Gella stands majestically on the last rocky turn in the road at 1700 mts. This luxurious home, a project which has taken its owners a good part of 3 years to complete to unparalleled standards, is now on the map for those seeking a gorgeously elegant stay. The villa is a massive contrast to what we have seen so far, and we soon learn that the 5* standards are really not what we expected to find up here, including a fire-place in every room and en-suite bathrooms throughout.
The ways to relax are many; either in the private indoor pool looking out onto the highest Perelik snow-capped peaks reaching 2000 mts, or on the underfloor-heated yoga terrace facing the sunset, or even in the hot-tub on the top floor penthouse suite. The white-on-white dining room, with its extensive mountain views, opens out onto large, deep, linen-covered sofas facing the open fire, and if sleep does not get the better of you after all the fresh air, you can check your emails and keep a finger on the distant pulse of work.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all home-made and freshly prepared, using only local, seasonal produce.
An extensive ski-resort lies 10 minutes down the road covering a considerable range, which is comparable to known resorts in Europe; it’s just that no-one has dared step out of these comfort zones to experience the new lifestyle of the Bulgarian descentes and wholesome mountain cuisine. But if downhill races and snow-boarding are not your thing, there are other activities such as panoramic langlauf itineraries, trout-fishing, horse-riding in the snow in early Spring, or across the green meadows in Summer.
If time is an issue for a business conference, Villa Gella also arranges private flights with Jet Charters into Plovdiv airport and linked helicopter transfers from the airport to the field outside Villa Gella, to avoid the twists and turns of the mountain drive.
We are due back here in the Summer, as we absolutely have to pick up an Icon commissioned by one of the guests during a visit to a chapel in the hills, entirely hand-painted by Nicolai himself, who had a calling to restore this religious treasure:  a modern-day version of the Boyana church, possibly. Now, what could be more unexpected?
By Gillian Kitching
7th March 2013
Gillian Kitching, from Inspiration Events , is used to taking luxury beyond the generic five star experience, giving guests the chance to encounter travel as a piece of theatre, not just observing but also interacting with the places they visit and the people they meet in the most authentic and joyful way – cinematic moments to cherish for all time.  Gillian shares with us her diary of a visit she arranged in February for the alumni group from Harvard Business School….
Friday and Saturday – Mumbai
Our guests arrive in Mumbai.  Fast and frenetic, the city is India’s beating heart and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel offers a peaceful sanctuary away from the chaos – the perfect place for guests to rest after their journey, while also enjoying some light sightseeing.  On Saturday, we  lunch at the exclusive Willingdon Club and then spend the afternoon at the races, rubbing shoulders with Mumbai society and Bollywood glitterati.
Sunday – Mihir Garh
In complete contrast, we fly to Jodhpur in Rajasthan and head for Mihir Garh, a private fort set deep in the desert.  With just nine luxury suites, it is the creation of Sidarth and Rashmi Singh, whose family have ruled this territory for over 500 years.  Here, they have thought of every detail to create the perfect wilderness escape.   After lunch on the terrace,  Sidarth guides us on a walking safari to nearby villages.   Beautiful children race to greet us crying, “hello and bye-bye” – full of fun and joy, they want to be in every photograph.
We return to the fort as the sun sets, to find a full moon reflected in the swimming pool.   There is just time to stretch out with some yoga on the lawn before getting ready for dinner.
I tell guests that we will be dining out this evening and that dress is casual. “But how can we be going out,  when we are in the middle of nowhere?”, they ask. “Just wait and see!” I reply.   After cocktails on the ramparts, Sidarth leads us to the fort’s entrance.  The  heavy gates open to reveal a caravan of camels in ceremonial regalia, pulling carts and escorted by tribesmen with flaming torches. “Your camels await,” says Sidarth with a grin and everyone climbs aboard.  The stars and moon light the way as our desert ships trot out into the night.  The mystery destination is a ‘Shikar,’ traditionally, a maharaja’s hunting camp.  Here, tribesmen and women sing and dance, their faces and dazzling costumes golden in the light of bonfires on which Mihir Garh’s chefs are busy preparing a delicious barbeque.
Monday
The jeep safari leaves at dawn.  We have an invitation to breakfast with a Bishnoi family, whose compound is just a short drive from the fort.  Sidarth explains that the Bishnois can be considered to be the forefathers of the environmental movement, their founder having decreed, over 500 years ago, that man should not kill any  creature nor cut down any living tree.  The first chapatti of the day is offered to the birds and they reward us with song as we sit with the elders and share a simple breakfast.
Driving deeper into the desert, our drivers stop frequently to point out wildlife – black buck, antelope and blue bull, all once rare but now returning, thanks to Sidarth’s stewardship.
Tuesday
Another dramatic contrast.  From the simplicity of the desert to the grandeur of the world’s largest palace – the Umaid Bhawan – home to the Maharaja of Jodhpur.  This evening, a fleet of vintage cars from the Maharaja’s private collection carry us to Jodhpur’s magnificent Mehrangarh Fort – exclusively ours for the evening.  After a tour hosted by the curator, we dine in the courtyard of the Zenana, formerly the women’s quarters – a fantasy of finely carved sandstone, so intricate it could have been made of lace.
Wednesday
Time for shopping, and what better way to get around than in our own fleet of tuk tuks, given a Rolls Royce makeover, and with our chauffeurs dressed as for a Bollywood gangster movie.   Spices, textiles and antiques – Jodhpur has it all.
This evening, we celebrate our Indian odyssey with dinner in the Umaid Bhawan’s ‘baradari’ – the Maharaja’s marble dining pavilion, set amid the palace gardens.  As beautiful women entertain us with song and dance, liveried waiters serve delicious curries from silver platters and in the distance, endless fireworks celebrate the wedding season. A Brazilian guest sitting next to me leans across and whispers, “I love my life.”
By Fiona Sanderson
7th March 2013
Fiona Sanderson traveled to the Backwaters in Kerala to check out the best hotels the region can offer….
1) Vivanta By Taj – Malabar, Cochin
By Rob Scorah
7th March 2013
A brief visit to Mumbai to attend Cartier’s Travel With Style Classic Car Concours, and some time spent in the city itself, rekindled that deep and often romanticized notion of the intermingling of Western (ostensibly British) and Indian cultures.
Predictably, many of the cars displayed around the grounds of the Taj Land’s End Hotel bore that iconic mascot; the Rolls-Royce Spirit of Ecstasy, while a number of heavy-shouldered (and very long) Buicks and Packards signalled the demise of the Raj and British influence, and India’s turning elsewhere for its more luxurious needs.
Some of the cars wouldn’t have looked at all out of place back in their countries of origin – the Best of Show-winning 1935 Rolls-Royce Phantom II cabriolet (Maharaja of Jodhpur) would sit happily outside Goodwood House, while the Buick Limousines would add dignity to any (Forties) Manhattan hotel. But others displayed an Occidental-Indian cross-fertilising fusion and that distinctly Indian readiness to embrace, shall we say, all the ‘possibilities’ that an automobile might become. That doesn’t necessarily mean pure ostentation – though a nickel-plated wedding car, or a primrose yellow 1911 Rolls with a Barker-build body equipped with a single throne in the rear, are a bit full on.  Some were merely ‘thoroughly accoutred’; everything from detachable swivel seats that doubled as picnic stools to a plush-cushioned boudoir for the ‘enjoyment’ of its occupants. Others were decidedly utilitarian, such as the 1940 wartime Fordson WOT2; virtually the staff car it had been built as, but also fitted with gun rack, pulleys and spotlights for boar and tiger hunting. Its weighing scales retained its lists and statistics of past kills. A painstakingly restored 1926 Chrysler Shooting Bake presented a different take on the word shoot; kitted out with everything the photographer of the day might need. The oiled mahogany tripod with period-correct Gralfex Speed Graphic camera was a nice touch.
Strolling among the gleaming headlamps with an ever-freshened cup of Masala Chai and a white china plate of delicately cut sandwiches, you could feel the echoes of those times when these cars waited on their owners at reviews, receptions or regimental polo matches. But glancing beyond the hotel grounds to the graceful arc of the Bandra-Worli suspension bridge connecting North and South Mumbai, you were reminded of what Mumbai has become. Once arguably the most important city of the British Empire after London, it is now India’s financial powerhouse and a cauldron of cross-cultural infusions; a metropolis of almost perpetual motion. As with those distinctly Indian Rolls-Royces, it is a place where any Englishman will feel somehow at ease, while thrilled at something distinctly new and more than a little unpredictable and exotic.
That familiarity begins with the hotels. Kuoni prepared my travel arrangements and offered the Taj Mahal Palace as my first base. With an architectural flavour somewhere between a Barry and Pugin rail terminus, Brighton Pavilion and a Mogul fortress, it has an oddly flamboyant gravitas (as do so many things in India). Its restrained old-world formality nonetheless offers warmth, and its staff are attentive and kind – as sentimental as that sounds. It manifests itself in the smallest ways – a lens cloth next to your reading glasses when you return to your room, or one more cup of tea because you liked the last one so much.
It’s the perfect place from which to explore at least a little of the city. Walk out early to the slightly kitsch but evocative India Gate and see the ferries in the golden early light making ready for their trips to Elephant Island. Take advantage of this quiet time to see the streets before the rush hour begins – note the architecture; more of that noble Victorian Neo-Gothic (with the odd onion dome) in the station and law courts, then something a little more French or Venetian – blinds, lattices, and glimpses of white-fronted Art Deco apartments or new concrete offices with some shantytown pressing in behind. While traders in the tower blocks work the money markets, the dhobi wallahs pound out the city’s washing on hard white stone.
Move around; go further. Take a taxi ride, even if you don’t need to; better still, try to hitch a ride on a scooter – with someone you trust with your life. It’s almost as if that frenetic traffic flow sums up the spirit of the city. From the outside, it seems relentless and intolerant, but jump in, swim with it and you will find it somehow forgiving and all-inclusive, allowing all things from cows to coaches to join, merge and flow – with a few unpredictable stops and starts, of course.
Perhaps the things you’ll notice the most are the brilliant and flamboyant snatches of colour; bangles, a sari, a scarf. They’re like a physical manifestation of the city’s energy, and something you can easily find for yourself.
Ladies, why not visit Bombay Electric, with its eclectic mix of vintage pieces and some very vivid contemporary fashion.  Gentlemen, investigate tailors like Michele Boutique or Golden Boutique; have a suit made in some sumptuous or fabulously light fabric. None of these are far from the safe haven of the Taj Mahal palace.
For a more traditional Indian artefact (and bartering experience), the Village Industries Emporiums offer hand-made textiles, scarves and carpets from more remote provinces, like Kashmir. Most of us know the stories of their weaving and embroidering; skills handed down from generation to generation, but the delicacy, intricacy and individuality of these pieces should never be taken for granted. Like the Maharajas’ Rolls-Royces, they have a distinctiveness and uniqueness that would be hard to replicate should they disappear, and we should cherish them.
Kuoni (01306 747008) offer seven nights at the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower Mumbai in a superior city view room with breakfast, including economy flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow and private transfers in resort.
4th March 2013
ITC Maratha in Mumbai
Mumbai airport offers little amusement between the hours of a flight change, so for those who have a lengthy stop over, respite from the perils of transit doldrums comes in the majestic form of the ITC Maratha . Ten minutes from the International Terminal, the ITC Maratha exudes a unique and authentic Indian charm with a sense of sophistication that exceeds the standard so many of its kind fall short of.
Enter the grand lobby, and you arrive in a world where jet-setting businessmen convene over gin-and-tonics, where you are greeted with a smile of sincerity and grace at every corner you turn. The atmosphere is replete with a sense of energy and exotic elegance that the Far East is so often lauded for – and you feel it.
The ITC Maratha is proud of its luxury cuisine and the flagship Dum Pukht restaurant is the hotel’s top ambassador for its culinary prowess. Whether it’s your final escapade with Indian fare or one of many business dinners, the authentic, slow-cooked, refined dishes will leave a lasting imprint.  For starters, we enjoyed Kakori Kebab, a minced lamb delicacy allegedly created for a toothless state leader who was subsequently unable to chew his food.  The result is a deliciously soft, melt-in-the-mouth sensation.  We also sampled Jinga Dum Nisha – succulent, tandoori-roasted prawns – and we couldn’t leave without trying Dum Pukht’s signature dish, beautifully flavoursome lamb biriyani, and Guccchi Pulav – delicate mushroom rice.
The flagship Dum Pukht restaurant
To add to the atmospheric ambience, the restaurant relinquishes no detail in its décor; with its gold lacquered ceilings exuding the majesty and wonder that only history books speak of.
Suites offer palatial marble bathrooms, electric massage chairs and comfortable beds you can’t resist after a long day travelling. The rooms also have charming statues, paintings and photographs that work despite being slightly kitsch. The ITC Maratha is one of those hotels you never want to leave, and you won’t feel bad about that. The perfect place to reside if you are a globe-trotting entrepreneur or lingering in the purgatory of transferring flights – the ITC Maratha not only offers a luxury haven but the chance to experience a part of India’s vast cultural tapestry.
The ITC Maratha
10th January 2013
One of Sri Lanka’s iconic TukTuks
Sri Lanka’s enduring appeal for visitors stems from a seductive combination of superb beaches, tropical sunshine, a very warm welcome and a quite unique puzzle of cultures epitomised by the extraordinary relics and temples recalling the power and dignity of their ancient, lost empires. Despite the turbulence and tragic recent history of 30 years of civil strife, this bustling island has now dusted itself down and got back on its feet, making it a truly desirable holiday destination.
Sharing both close ties to India’s oldest cultures, and a colonial history of European occupation, it is an island with a legacy of millennia of interactions with Europe, and it has been known as many names during its history: to the ancient Greeks it was Taprobane, to the Arabs, Serendip, to the later European conquerors, Ceilao, Zeylan or Ceylon, and to the locals, Sri Lanka – ‘Lanka the Blessed.’
A first stop to the heart of Ceylon, Galle Fort, is therefore an appropriate beginning to get a sense of all the travel and trade which the town of Galle Fort saw over the centuries. From the immense sea-facing ramparts of this fort, you can capture the sense of flux and history which pervades the senses.
Amangalla – Grandeur And Traditions
Nothing can quite prepare you for the reality and bustle of life in Sri Lanka.  As you career through the most incredibly dicey streets which approach Galle Fort, you find yourself clutching the guardrails on the TukTuk as it swerves past policemen, cows on roundabouts, cars, vans and hand-painted lorries…it is a quick introduction to how we are going to get about in the next 10 days, weaving in and out of traffic in the iconic, smartie-coloured TukTuks.
Dizzy from the chaos in town, we reach the top of the hill-rise in Galle Fort and are driven up a newly cobbled road (just finished this year) and dropped off outside an elegant staircase, marked by two huge potted papyrus plants and there is it, very discreetly languishing in the heart of the 17th fort: The Amangalla. Set in the heart of one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites, the hotel exudes an air of grandeur married with the traditions of by-gone days, amidst Dutch heritage, pillared verandahs and Victoriana tiles originally from Wandsworth….
Amangalla
As Olivia Richli, the General Manager of the Amangalla, tells me over breakfast, she took on the Aman project nearly 20 years ago, and the hotel, originally the private home of Nesta Brohier, had all the ingredients Adrian Zecha was after. In his twenties, he was living between Delhi, where he worked for TIME magazine, and Sri Lanka. It was during this era of prohibition in India that he first met Nesta as he became a regular guest at the house as a young man, who saw himself frequently invited to the most lavish parties and dinners, which Nesta threw for Indian and British high society.
The elegance of this private home, the location and the views from the top floor rooms out to the Indian Ocean were never forgotten and when a most exceptional circumstance came up to be able to keep the house and its heritage, there was no stopping Adrian Zecha creating another most exquisite Ãman hotel!
The charm of Amangalla is seen every day through its valued heritage. When you wake, the soft morning sunlight pours through the louvered shutters onto the rich, polished, timber floors, much like it did years and years ago. Outside, you hear the gentle sweeping of the terraces surrounding the green-tiled swimming pool, where fallen frangipani flowers are collected after the night winds. Olivia’s voice can then be overheard as she talks to her immaculately sarong-ed staff for morning briefings around the property, checking the table cloths are laid straight, the floor-polisher’s brushes are well-waxed, and the personal butlers are well-versed on all their guests’ requirements. Next on her list is a call to her silversmith in London, who has an order to complete in time for the New Year. The dining tables need more of the signature blue glass and silver salt & pepper sets; they too are a cast-back to an original salt seller found in the renovation of the home.  This is how the house would have been run, and these are the details which make the atmosphere and give the continuity in the Ãman properties.
The blue glass and silver salt & pepper pots at Amangalla – sourced from London, this is true attention to detail
Amanwella – Space and Balance
The town of Tangalla is once again an explosion of traffic, stalls, colours, markets, banana bundles, fresh coconuts and the toots of TukTuks and scooters trying to avoid each other.  If you have traveled this far south, take a small dusty track off the main drag, and trust your driver! The end of a fresh, leafy path brings you to the most spectacular out-look you can possibly expect.  Once again, nothing can prepare you! A beautiful green grassy glade rolls down towards the golden beachfront, flanked by the Amanwella, which sits proud and majestic overlooking the bay. Unlike the surfing of the rolling waves along this horizon, this hotel and its Ocean Suites are about pure ease and indolence.  Trekking up the freshly hosed-down path under the palm tree shade, following the butlers’ breezy sarong, we reach the top of the hill with relief and only wish we could have the key to the Ocean Suite.
The infinity pool and beach view at Amanwella
A handsome wood door slides open onto the Ocean Suite, which boasts a view again second to none. This can naturally also be said for the elegance and simplicity of the interiors.  Designed and created to work the clever Aman space and balance code, each suite has a private pool outside, a huge deluxe double bedroom, a wood-fitted bathroom and dressing area, always using indigenous supplies of timber and stone in the paneling, shutters, stone bath and flooring.
The beach resort below the Ocean Suites (if you can refer to this palm tree garden in this way), stretches along the beach front and 10 widely spaced-out wooden loungers, with pristine white toweling covers, await guests to come and breathe in the ozone…nothing could be further removed from what we would call a resort in Rimini!! A large black yoga platform built on the sea front is prepped with yoga mats and water bottles for sun salutations at 6pm.  Heaven? Sorted!
The yoga platform at Amanwella
The future for Sri Lanka, despite all the troubled times which now seem safely behind it, looks very dynamic. The new Expressway connects Colombo to the heritage stop of Galle and continues down to Matara, leaving Tangalla just 20 minutes away.  Soon enough, the half-built bridges, unmanned motorway exits and mounds of earth you drive past, seemingly abandoned sites in the vast green expanses, will all connect, taking Sri Lanka’s transportation to a new level all the way to Hambantota International Airport, the newly built airbase which saw its first test commercial flight landings just last week! They are really and truly connecting their dots in Sri Lanka.
Colombo
By Hannah Norman
7th December 2012
A holiday should be about creating an experience of a lifetime.  With this in mind, The Luxury Channel brings you ten of the best…
1) Lux* Le Morne, Mauritius
Lying off the east coast of Madagascar, basking in the warmth of the African sun, is Mauritius. Protected by a mountain that bears the same name, Lux* Le Morne offers a slice of tropical paradise, with a snow-white beach, four swimming pools – and the chance to swim with dolphins.  But if swimming’s not really your thing and you still want to test your sea legs, the resort offers its guests catamaran cruises around the south of the island, and for the more courageous, kite surfing and wind surfing.  But if that simply sounds like a bit too much, then guests can slow it right down with tai chi classes, or relax completely with a treatment in the spa.
30th November 2012
The start of the 33rd edition of the Rolex Middle Sea Race.  (Image courtesy of Rolex/Kurt Arrigo)
What better way to escape the wind and dark afternoons of London and Northern Europe when you can sit overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, with beautiful sunshine and temperatures of around 60 degrees?  Just off the coast of Sicily, Malta is a perfect haven to escape the winter blues, as well as being a sailing enthusiast’s dream.
The Luxury Channel was there to see the start of what many Brits and worldwide sailors say is one of Europe’s most popular and respected offshore races. The racecourse proves both exciting and challenging due to the currents in the Messina Strait and the difficulties posed by navigation and changing weather conditions.  The Rolex Middle Sea Race first started in 1968, and 2012 marks the 33rd edition of the race.  It is also the last race of the season, and the chance to see over 80 yachts leaving the Grand Harbour at Valletta – it was indeed a spectacular sight.  Four classes of yacht compete (the race is open to monohull and multihull yachts between 30 and 100 feet).  Covering a distance of some 606-nautical mile racecourse around Sicily, the active volcano of Stromboli serves as a marker, and if the weather if fine, Mount Etna can usually be seen as well.
Eddie De Villiers and his South African team on Hi Fidelity eventually won the race.  Co-captain Michael Joubert remarked that the race “was a challenge beyond challenges,” referencing the conditions faced by the team.  “We didn’t get a lot of sleep, and each new leg brought something new,” he added.  This doesn’t stop the Rolex Middle Sea Race attracting record numbers of entrants each year!
The Hi Fidelity crew with the Rolex Middle Sea Race Trophy and Rolex timepiece.  (Image courtesy of Rolex/Kurt Arrigo)
Whether you go in summer or winter, Malta offers a varied, rich history and cultural heritage stretching back over 7,000 years – it is certainly a fascinating melting pot of cultures and civilizations.  Home to no less than three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, our favorite place to wander around and soak up the history was in Malta’s ancient capital, Mdina. The atmosphere in Mdina is one of tranquility and understated splendor. Perched on a rocky plateau with a near 360 view of the island, Mdina is a great example of a Medieval fortress. We were very impressed with The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux Hotel (probably the best on the island) which has been restored with finite detail.  Certainly worth a stay and visit.
By The Luxury Channel
27th November 2012
The second edition of the Amarrass Desert Music Festival is back with traditional music from deserts around the world. The festival boasts of an awesome line-up, which includes Bombino (the Hendrix of Niger), BaBa ZuLa (the creators of Istanbul Psychedelia), the redoubtable Sakar Khan, Padma Shri Awardee (who seldom performs in public), and Barmer Boys, among others. The vast openness of desert, be it India’s Thar Desert or  Sahel – Sahara in Western Africa will be captured in the venue at Zorba that creates a festival atmosphere with its amphitheatre, green lawns, food and drinks. The two-day music festival promises to be even more engaging and enjoyable than its predecessors, in a venue that complements the magnitude and scope of the festival. Zorba is known to have hosted music festivals in the past, with “Escape to Zorba” in April and “Jus Jazz” very recently being two of the memorable ones!
The festival is spread over two days, where the stage promises to be a great interactive platform for the showcase series that will feature up-and-coming artists, collaborations,  experiments and sounds using ancient and modern instruments. An instrument petting zoo, kids’ music lessons and seeing a morchang being made are a few of the activities which will be showcased at the two day festival. Artists include Dischordian, Tritha Electric, Harpreet Singh, The Blue Infinity, Alan Rego, and a special Indo-Welsh collaboration – I Adra – with Tauseef Akhtar (Ghazal singer) and Gwyneth Glyn (singer/songwriter), and Georgia Ruth Williams (harp).
50 artists, 12 bands, 4 continents, 14 hours of music over two days, this year Amarrass brings to you not only an array of renowned international artists and jaw-dropping performances, but an ambience that will showcase the perfect environment created for the event.
About Zorba
Zorba is committed towards providing a growing platform for musicians across the world. Live performances by Folk, Fusion, Jazz, Blues, Rock, Sufi, Reggae and world music artists are encouraged here. Zorba stands for the free spirit. Free of inhibitions, celebrating each day with fresh enthusiasm and appreciating all beautiful aspects of life. We at Zorba have incorporated this philosophy to offer our guests an experience worth remembering. Live music, world cuisine, carefully selected wines and an engaging ambience will make any occasion worth celebrating at Zorba.
About Amarass
Amarrass Records was established in 2009 with the aim to deliver a world music experience that is inclusive, accessible and sustainable. Guided by the principles of fair trade, we strive to create an environment that encourages and nourishes the creative spirit of musicians and music lovers, and reinvigorates traditional forms of expression through music and the arts. The staging of world-class musical events, music production and distribution, and education will be part of this process.
The name Amarrass is significant. A literal translation means “eternal essence”…this is how we feel about music. We often listen to music in flashes and fleeting moments, but its impact is long-lasting. What stays with us are everlasting melodies, the glorious beats, an essence of the moment captured in rhythm. Built on a shared vision, passion and love for music, Amarrass Records is our attempt at finding and creating new solutions to address old issues and find a sustainable way forward to preserve, promote and enhance music that matters.
Festival Information
By Claudio Silva
9th November 2012
Claudio Silva, founder of the leading hospitality blog, Luanda Caipirinha Lounge, shares his top tips for a weekend in Luanda with Angola-Today.com and The Luxury Channel.
You wake up to quiet streets and the absence of the usual clamor; you cannot hear the incessant honking of the ubiquitous candongueiros, and even the colorful and boisterous zungueiras seemed to have receded into the city’s fabric. And the traffic… well, the traffic is completely gone. Welcome to Luanda on the weekend.
Affluent residents of Luanda like to dedicate the weekend to friends, family, and the few leisure activities one can do in the city. Most of these leisure activities invariably revolve around the ocean. Drawn-out lunches with friends and family, as well as days spent on the beach, are the traditional favorites.
If you find yourself in Luanda city centre during a weekend, start off your day with a leisurely stroll around the Cidade Alta (Upper City), the seat of power in Luanda. It is a small agglomeration of pink government buildings, among them the Presidential Palace, several important ministries, and the Igreja de Jesus, one of the city’s most famous churches. Due to its proximity to the Presidential Palace, this smart and quiet area overlooking Luanda Bay is very safe and constantly policed.
As you make your way down the Cidade Alta, keep to the left and you will see the beautiful Fortaleza de São Miguel, commonly known as the Luanda Fort, an imposing white military structure inherited from the Portuguese. Today, it houses some historical artifact, including a few fighter jets and statues of colonizers past, and offers expansive views of the Marginal, Luanda’s bay.
Finally, continue your trek downwards and stroll along the recently renovated Marginal itself, the city’s newest and most frequented public space. You’ll see young lovers, joggers, people skating, old men reading on benches facing the ocean, and one or two people just contemplating the ever-hanging face of their beloved city.
If hungry, one option is to head back up the hill towards Luanda Fort and eat at one of the city’s most charming and unique addresses, the Naquele Lugar Restaurant, located on the cobblestone road leading to the Fort. Your immediate sensation upon entering this courtyard restaurant is that you are having dinner at a friend’s garden somewhere in the Mediterranean. The decades-old building housing the restaurant and it’s kitchen give the place an authentic, charismatic feel. Their specialty is the Pepper Steak and it never disappoints.
Alternatively, you can head to the Ilha, where Luanda’s moneyed elite and emerging middle class flock to on the weekends, filling its numerous seaside bars and restaurants. The Ilha is really a peninsula jutting out from mainland Luanda into the Atlantic Ocean. Among its most frequented establishments are Chillout, which doubles as a sexy and sophisticated sea-side lounge and dance club at night, Cais de Quatro, which sits on the side of the Ilha overlooking Luanda and has some of the best views of the city, and Coconuts, which many Luandans consider to be the best restaurant on the strip. Take your time at one of these establishments. Savor the food and the ocean breeze, nurse your glass of wine or caipirinha and come prepared to spend at least $80 per person.
As night-time approaches, you’ll slowly start to notice the increase in street activity. There are more cars on the road. People walk by you impeccably dressed. Loud music, of many different varieties, starts to fill the air. Luandans love their nightlife and are known as skilled revelers, with parties lasting all-night and spilling into Sunday morning.
You can start your night with a cocktail at one of the city’s several attractive lounges. Doo.Bahr, located on the third floor of Edifício Escom, Luanda’s tallest tower, has some of the best cocktails in town and a rather opulent ambiance. Floresta Lounge, in the Kinaxixi neighborhood, is a much more eclectic establishment, known for its chilled music and excellent sangria which can be sipped in the lounge’s outdoor patio.
As the hour advances and you start to get in the mood for a change of scenery, you are again spoilt for choice. Many of your friends will head to the Ilha, the preferred destination for the city’s night owls. Lookal São Jorge, another seaside venue, features an expansive variety of music and several international acts per month. The more alternative Elinga Teatro, located on a historical building facing the Marginal, is another unique location that is heavy on house, reggae, and sometimes hip-hop. The current darling of Luanda’s nightlife, however, is Kasta Lounge, the city’s premier club destination and located on the road that leads to the Luanda-Sul neighborhood.
When you finally awake on Sunday, and if you are lucky enough to be friends with a Luandan, there is nothing better than the traditional, drawn-out family meals so common in the city’s quintais (backyards). Such occasions are a staple of Angolan culture and offers the extended family a chance to sit down and talk about the past week, current events, politics, family affairs, and the like; the conversation flows and so does the beer and wine, and the food spread is quite extensive.  It is here that you are most likely to try many of Angola’s favorite national dishes, including the ubiquitous funji(ground cassava flour), which is eaten with a variety of stews, beans cooked in a palm oil sauce, grilled tilapia fish, and several other local specialties. In the event that you, for whatever reason, aren’t invited to one of these lunches, there is nothing to worry about. Tia Guida on the Ilha has plenty of this type of fare for a very reasonable price, while the more adventurous among you can try the incredibly fresh grilled seafood at one of the roadside shacks in Chicala, on the side of the Ilha facing the Atlantic (ask anyone at the entrance to the Ilha and they will direct you there). Other Sunday favorites include Veneza Restaurant, where you are served heaping portions of Portuguese cuisine or one of the best steaks in the city, or even the aforementioned Lookal, which has among the best variety of seafood in Luanda and is a great place to watch a sunset to the sound of relaxing music and great cuisine.
By Monday, the magic of the Luandan weekend will have disappeared and the city will have returned to its usual state of organized chaos. But you can rest safe in the knowledge that there is always next weekend, and that for 48 hours at least, you got to meet and experience a different facet of Luandan life and culture.
By Rosalind Milani Gallieni
5th November 2012
Even after 20 years visiting this breathtaking region of the Swiss Alps, there is still the same content of apprehension and wonderment from an excursion to the Jungfraujoch, which towers above you at 3454mt above sea level. To top it all, this year also celebrates 100 years since the Jungfrau railway was completed – an engineering feat that took 16 years to complete, and which today takes passengers to the highest station in Europe.
Following the rails of the Jungfraubahn, which take you to this highest point, you come to the final railway station at the end of the line which quite literally takes your breath away, both for the altitude (as the air is extremely thin up here), and for the outrageous position, which opens out to the full-on panorama of the snow decked Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.
The long train-run through the rock tunnel is broken up in two viewpoint panoramic windows looking out onto the world. Carved out of the rock wall, back in 1890’s, these tireless tunnellers, who were led by the vision of the fearless engineer and entrepreneur Adolf Guyer-Zeller, have today given us all a live wonderland pleasure ride, both in summer and winter.
At the Top of Europe, standing on the Jungfraujoch, we are amazed by the world of snow and ice which stretches below with views spanning over 20 kilometres along the Aletsch Glacier – on a clear day, you can spot the Vosges in France and the Black Forest in Germany. A glacier trek with an expert guide takes us along this eternal sea of ice; each one of us tied to one another by sturdy ropes, and happy husky dogs bounce about us in anticipation of the long runs ahead.
Making such close contact under-foot with this awe-inspiring glacier is a truly unique experience. Considering the mere brute power and depth of this beautifully dangerous landscape puts each one of us into perspective with our surroundings, and it is no surprise that key temperature and weather research is carried out at this exceptional UNESCO World Heritage Site to study our sustainable future: a most important natural reference in our in ever-changing world.
After a stretch on skies, a short run on a ski-do then takes us up to the door of an incredibly small, bright yellow twin-seater Piper Supercup and after a struggle to sit in the smallest of cockpits with ski boots and all, we take off from a white snow runway and climb up towards the Eiger’s North Face. The plane is exactly as wide as the single seats we are tucked into, and the body of the plane is a treated canvas. We watch in further amazement as the pilot keeps climbing for height and points out places on the rock on the North Face where bodies were never recovered. “Weather conditions often don’t allow us to get close enough to help, and we have to abandon the rescue operations,” he says slowly…considering…
One last swoop and he points the nose of the plane towards the opposite side of the valley, steering us to Mürren, which nestles under the PitzGloria, a location synonymous to many with the famous Bond movie, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.” To reach there, we suddenly fly across an immense drop, with searing rock faces dropping away under us, straight down into the village of Lauterbrunnen below.
To mark the centenary of the Top of Europe, a celebration concert will take place on March 31st, with an international star-studded line up, counting singers Bryan Adams, Kim Wilde and Polo Hofer in concert at the SnowpenAir on the Kleine Scheidegg – an open air concert which reverberates effectively at 2000mt, directly at the foot of the biggest world icon, the Eiger, with its intimidating North face looking down at the valley below. Tread lightly!
By Scott Manson
2nd November 2012
About ten years ago, a well-known travel company ran a tube poster advert which read, ‘Your life is meaningless and you will die having achieved comparatively little. You need a holiday.’ It was accompanied by a photo of a paradise beach.
Leaving aside the questionable marketing tactic of insulting your target audience, it made a solid point. In terms of life-affirming moments, there are few things to beat a really great holiday. And nowhere is this affirmation more apparent than when you’re winging your way to a tropical holiday destination by helicopter.
The pilot, a mustachioed wing commander type who clearly has one of the best jobs in the world, points out a few sights on the 15 minute flight from the main island. In truth, though, it falls on deaf ears as I’m comfortably ensconced in my own private world, the hum and crackle of air traffic control in my headphones combining with the swoop and whoosh of the helicopter to fulfill all my James Bond fantasies.
On touchdown at Fregate Island Private, we’re greeted by Jared, our personal butler for the next few days. Previous places I’ve stayed which claim to have this service usually fall short of the mark. Often the personal butler turns out to be a chap who carries your bags to the room on the first day and turns your bed down at night. Here, though, Jared is with me every step of the way, remembering everything from my cocktail choice at dinner to precisely where I liked to position my sun lounger on one of the island’s seven talcum-soft white sand beaches. They include secluded Marina Beach, protected by cliffs with calm waters, and Anse Victorin, a ‘secret’ beach reachable by a flight of 100 stairs. Better still, two of the beaches can be exclusively yours, simply by turning a sign at the entrance to ‘occupied.’ Even at its peak, though, Fregate can never accommodate more than 40 guests, so you won’t find yourself fighting for beach space.
This idyllic granite island is dotted with 16 villas, all of them commanding incredible views of the Indian Ocean. These mahogany marvels also boast infinity pools, Jacuzzi, and marble floors, plus superbly comfortable four poster beds.
This is no Maldives-style perfectly manicured resort though. You know the sort of place, staffed with sunglass-cleaning technicians and other nannying types, all set in a destination that seems groomed to an inch of its life. Instead, Fregate is an island that has been sensitively developed, with a strong emphasis on the environment, from rainwater collection to the reintroduction of native flora and fauna. Indeed, a morning spent with their full-time ecologist Greg is a true eye-opener, as he takes us on a tour of this 300-acre island.
It’s almost too much to process – total sensory overload – with the dense undergrowth, punctuated by the whoop and whistle of its inhabitants, making me feel like I have a walk-on part in a Jurassic Park remake. A rustle in the bushes reveals itself to be one of the island’s most famous residents, an Aldabra Giant Tortoise.  There are an unbelievable 2,000 of these creatures wandering around the island and they’re like a throwback to the days of the dinosaurs. The chap we’ve spotted is one of the oldest – around 110 years old – and is happy to accept a gift of a slightly squashed banana from my pocket. To complete the picture of untouched paradise, Steve points to a tiny Seychelles Magpie Robin perched in a nearby branch. Given the vibrant colours sported by many of the island’s birds, this little fella wouldn’t have grabbed our attention were it not for the fact that Steve reveals that it’s the seventh rarest bird in the world.
“We recently transferred 59 of these birds to the lsland, as part of a worldwide conservation scheme,” he says. “If the population takes off on Frégate as we expect, it will be the first bird species in the world once classified as Critically Endangered to be removed from Birdlife International’s threatened birds of the world list because of conservation action.”
Everything seems to flourish here – the whole place is like an episode of Gardener’s World on steroids – it feels like a seed planted at daybreak would be higher than my head by sunset.
After our expedition, the Rock Spa proves to be the perfect place to unwind. Situated at one of the highest points on the island, and with a suitably tranquil vibe, it’s home to a skillful set of massage therapists who take delight in revealing just how knotted my back muscles are, before proceeding to pound the tension into submission.
Dinner that night is taken alfresco. Jared and the island’s head chef Gabriel prepare a barbecue on the beach, with our table placed on the sand surrounded by flaming torches and the rustle of hundreds of hermit crabs providing the soundtrack. Lobster is served, alongside beautifully moist chicken and fish which, if it was any fresher, would probably leap from the plate to make a bid for the nearby ocean. We also sample the traditional Seychelles Creole salad, spiked with spring onions grown in the island’s vast gardens, as are most of the fruit and vegetables that are served to guests. Indeed, it’s the sort of place that, were you stranded Castaway-style, you could live quite happily on the island’s bountiful produce.
A five day holiday here is way too short. In truth, with 3km of island to explore, and deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, and other active pursuits easily available, a ten day trip would really hit the spot. No more than that though because, frankly, enjoying this level of luxury should only be savoured in small doses. Otherwise, you may never get on that return helicopter.
For more information, visit Scott Dunn ( www.scottdunn.com ; 020 8682 5400).
By Rosalind Milani Gallieni
1st November 2012
Cuba – a Caribbean Island blessed with palm trees, sultry temperatures, hip-swiveling rhythms, pristine beaches, and an excess of rum! Not forgetting the world’s finest hand rolled cigars…and socially apt sharks.
Starting with a 5-hour boat trip from Jucaro to Jardines de la Reina, a speck in the deep blue seas, which can officially be called the middle of nowhere – floats an oil rig platform, beautifully transformed into Italian design and style by its Italian owner from Como. Fish was exquisitely fresh straight from the sea and the lobsters from the mangroves, scattered all around us. Served twice daily by chef Eduardo, every dish came with the all important drizzle of Olive Oil – again, a comfort the owner sends in as priority!
Diving the Caribbean with videos and cameras at hand, catching this exceptionally untouched sea-world on footage, which back at home still makes viewers gasp in horror, as images of huge 3 meter long silky-sharks pass across the screen!
Tortuga Floating Hotel, Jardines De La Reina
Back in Havana, the lumbering American Chevrolet taxis dating back to the 1940s and 1950s, which are patched and propped up, and come in all the colours of the rainbow, work their way through crazy and unpredictable haphazard traffic; day and night they bustle past bikes and side cars, yellow Coco-taxis (a Piaggio Ape chassis with a yellow coconut shell on it which you sit in), yellow buses stuffed to the windows with local commuters, who at times hang off the wing mirrors as the doors close and the bus drives on! It all depicts the spirit of the nation.
This deep immersion into the Cuban lifestyle has left us all vibrantly energized and custodians of a lifetime experience, having lived a lifestyle the West has left behind, and that is close to the brink of change. Despite the scars of the revolution, headed up by Fidel and Che (which by the way means “Dude”), which struck both the buildings, the nation and their communities, Cuba’s people are happy, immensely proud of their country, radiant without resentment or crime.
Go there soon, see the WHOLE of Cuba, drive along the crazy long roads which cross the island, and witness the life outside the city, the lush plantations, the colour of the earth, the oxen working the land, the high mountains. See Havana ALIVE before the changes of UNESCO and long-term investors change the face of a romantic and beautifully real city, which drifts from day to day in the wonderfully addictive Cuban sun, while musicians play at every street corner; rhythms unchanged since the 1930s.
For prices and reservations at Tortuga Floating Hotel, go to www.cuba-diving.de
By Antonia Peck and Eadaoin Kelly
29th March 2012
Transform your body and your sense of self, as The Luxury Channel guides you through four of the world’s top spas….
SHA Wellness Centre
When I returned from SHA Wellness Centre, telling all who would listen about the delights of macro-biotic cooking and my amazing experience at the spa, many skeptics seemed hell-bent on curbing my enthusiasm. Even the man in Waterstones mocked me for enquiring about a book on macrobiotics which was ‘‘trendy over ten years ago,’’ leaving me shuffling around in the vegetarian cookbook aisle.
So I logged on to Amazon, read (admittedly old) articles about macro-biotic queen Gwyneth Paltrow, and bought The Hip Chick’s Guide To Macrobiotics.
It had been about ten days since I had been in Alicante, enjoying the January sunshine and the calm of this beautifully presented and modern spa, and in that time I had become a vegetarian, started every day with a bowl of miso soup (msg free) and given up that occasional social cigarette. However, most importantly of all, I felt grounded and connected to nature for the first time, in a long time. Suffice to say, SHA Wellness Centre is an incredible place and has quite honestly changed my life. Nearly two months later, my new lifestyle is still going strong.
Food
The macrobiotic philosophy is central to the Spa’s healing powers, which is about being exceptionally nourished with the right food. Those staying specifically for weight-loss are given a very low calorie menu. Others, who are suffering from stress or exhaustion, are given larger portions with a focus on alkalising the body. The only time I felt hungry was at night, when I would wake up with a start at around four in the morning. Many guests complained about their poor night’s sleep but this is a common symptom of the body expelling toxins. Siestas were often necessary in the afternoon.
The macrobiotic diet is largely vegetarian with the occasional fish offering. You eat no night-shade vegetables (so no potatoes, sweet potatoes, aubergine), dairy, meat, or tropical fruit. Your meals consist of brown, whole cereal grains, such as buckwheat and quinoa. Then pulses, vegetables, vegetable protein foods, sea vegetables and a variety of seeds, nuts and condiments. Foods I had never heard of, such as azuki beans, burdock and daikon, and seaweeds such as arame, agar-agar and dulse, appeared on my plate. The meals felt balanced and fulfilling – all thanks to SHA’s exceptional chef, Pablo Montoro.
Daniel Mayor, my macrobiotic counsellor during my time at SHA, advises guests to eat slowly and chew their food, take evening meals at the earliest possible time, and to drink water during the day and not with the meal. These methods stop bloating and aid digestion. Guests are also advised on supportive supplements during their stay (and for when they return). For example, I was advised to begin taking digestive enzymes and aloe vera juice with my meals. This has continued to be a revolutionary introduction to my eating habits.
Your efforts will be supported by the restaurant and kitchen staff (who all know your unique programme) and will allow you to request smaller or larger helpings if you feel the need.
There are some wonder foods in the macrobiotic diet and experts speak of the incredible benefits of beginning the day with fresh miso soup and umeboshi pills (pickled plums). Kukicha is another recommended beverage – a twig tea that helps ground you.
Activities
Guests are advised to be active every day and attend the SHA Life Learning Centre classes.  The walk to the lighthouse in the morning is particularly enchanting, and the yoga teacher is very good.
Guests can book bespoke fitness classes according to their fitness level and SHA is currently updating their fitness area with new machines. The timetabled classes (pilates, stretching, yoga and aqua aerobics) are at beginners level but the point is to keep moving rather than show off your Pilates prowess.
I particularly enjoyed SHA’s thermal pool, as well as the sauna and steam room areas. It is the perfect place to relax, concentrate and strengthen your body and detox resolve!
Rooms
The beds at SHA are deliciously comfortable and are kitted out with really good, soft linen. Each bed has a silver tree painted lightly above it (like a ‘‘tree of life’’ symbol) and the colour template is neutral and clean. I had a sea and mountain view with a large patio, large television screen (that I never used), a desk, sofa and shower.
Top Tips
Speak to your ‘‘Agenda Co-ordinator’’ at the beginning of your stay to make sure you get the best out of your programme.
Book an appointment with SHA’s reflexologist – he received rave reviews!
Supplement your programme with regular massages (the shiatsu massage was amazing).
You might get the blues at first (a few tears, a headache or two) but wait it out and a lovely driving energy will take hold of you and inspire you once you return home.
By Fiona Sanderson
29th March 2012
How about having your own ski butler in the heart of the Swiss Alps?  The quaint and traditional village of Andermatt – with a population of only 1,300 – is being transformed and, as a guest of the Andermatt Swiss Alps Company, I took a trip to the Gotthard region, in the heart of the Swiss Alps, to find out why.
This charming village has been quietly forgotten since its heyday in the 20s and 30s, when its clientele included local aristocrats and European royalty. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert chose it as their alpine hideaway and The Grand Bellevue Hotel was once the only place to be seen.
When World War II broke out, the Swiss Army chose Andermatt as its headquarters, and the picturesque village became the highly secretive base for the High Command of the Swiss Federal Army. Since the Army’s departure in 2000, locals have welcomed hardened skiers who enjoy the mountain passes and glaciers in the winter, and outdoor enthusiasts who climb, bike and explore the unspoilt Alpine landscape in the summer.
However, change is on the way as Orascom Development Holdings and The Andermatt Swiss Alps Company are transforming this small village into a hotspot to suit every visitor’s needs. Andermatt is to become a five star destination with new deluxe hotels, residential properties, sport and leisure facilities, as well as a conference and concert hall.
In order to rejuvenate Andermatt, sustainability is key to ensuring this visionary project is successful. The plans include developing the current infrastructure, as well as to launch six five star hotels and a complex of luxury apartments and villas. The innovative project will modernise an entire mountain area whilst maintaining a natural exterior, to compliment its environment. This will link the neighboring ski areas to create one single ski range of 135 kilometres of piste in the Winter, whilst in the Summer, the new 18-hole golf course, with 1.3 million sq metres, will satisfy the amateur golfers who like to take in the fresh mountain air. It is an impressive project which will place Andermatt on the map as a destination equal to some of the top ski resorts in Europe, such as St. Moritz, Verbier and Zermatt.
Clearly, for ambitious as well as family skiers, this will be a dream. Just a short car journey from Zurich Airport, the resort will provide everything from the tall slopes of the Gemsstock Glacier at 3,000 metres for the advanced winter sport fanatics, to the lower sunny slopes of the Nätschen which will suit all holiday needs. For the city dweller who prefers the après ski life (like myself), I was keen to discover the lifestyle element of the development. Building works on Europe’s first Chedi Hotel and Residence are nearing completion. With 50 bedrooms and a collection of 119 apartments and penthouses, this historical venue promises to be a first class hotel. On a guided tour around the building site of The Chedi Andermatt, it was clear that luxury, space and comfort were in mind, with fine dining gourmet restaurants serving the best of Asian cuisine, wine and cigar libraries and various themed lounges. The extensive spa, indoor and outdoor pools and a uniquely designed ice rink and stylish après ski bars, appealed immediately to me. Based on projected designs, my first impression was very good.
Whether the new Andermatt will retain the quaintness of an “old mountain village” is yet to be determined, but with support from the locals and a carefully planned luxurious expansion, it promises to be a top destination for winter 2013.
Top Tip
Apartments are valued at approximately CHF 1.8m and offer state-of-the-art facilities, including a wellness oasis and a sophisticated fitness centre, and with the option of your very own personal butler, it seems to tick all the boxes.
Andermatt Swiss Alps AG
By Eadaoin Kelly
20th February 2012
Miami really does have it all – the weather, the glittering white beaches, the contrasting art deco and modern architecture brimming full of designer and vintage shops, a wonderful array of restaurants and other cool hangouts. The only negative?  Well, the locals also “have it all,” leaving us girls feeling rather pasty and tired in comparison!
Where To Stay
If we were in Miami to compete with the bronzed babes, then we booked the right place. Our hotel,  Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa gets people healthy and glowing fast! With residential options and 150 luxurious guest suites available, this is a truly inspirational and unique setting.  Whether you seek indoor rock climbing, professional life management and health analysis, hair and beauty treatments or nutritional guidance, Canyon Ranch effortlessly provides the full package.
Meanwhile,  Loews Miami Beach Hotel is again a perfect location, situated on South Beach, but this time a lively venue with couples and families in mind. With magnificent views from your balcony over the Atlantic Ocean and the vast swimming pool below, Loews Hotel has just less than 800 rooms and suites to suit all your vacation needs.
Where To Eat
A typical day at Canyon Ranch includes a tasty and nutritious breakfast. My substantial choice included a cappuccino with a bell pepper, white cheddar and onion omelette with a side of breakfast potatoes and turkey bacon, prepared fresh to order, knocking up only 602 calories (menus provide a calorie, fibre and protein guide to aid your choice).
After sprucing up at Gee Beauty  with revitalising facials and glorious Red Carpet makeovers – in only 35 minutes, we were transformed to fit in with the crowd enjoying lunch at Carpaccio  at Bal Harbour. Here we polished off delicious quattro formaggi pizzas and Pennette Harry’s Bar pasta (a garlic, spinach, pine nuts and sundried tomato sensation).
At SUSHISAMBA® , we were seated outside to enjoy dinner with a prime view of the passing beauties. We started with a wonderful crunchy and well-seasoned otsumami assortment followed by rock shrimp tempura, a delightful tuna seviche and the finale – a sharing plate of lobster taquitos. We drank a well-balanced Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, 2009). The service quality equalled the food: smart and well presented.
We took lunch at the trendy Nikki Beach . We sipped champagne and enjoyed Kobe beef sliders (mini beef burgers with roasted garlic, sundried tomato and tumbleweed onion) served with addictive fries whilst to the right of the DJ, we soaked in the sun surrounded by the local eye candy, who had gathered for social events and even a wedding!
We settled in the Sushi SoBe restaurant situated in the heart of Loews Hotel, attracted by the Raspberry Sake Mojitos bursting with fresh lime and mint, whilst we tucked unashamedly into sumptuous signature dishes, including soft shell crab sushi rolls, chef’s choice sushi and the formidable smoking tuna cocktail in a spicy ponzu dressing, which was as highly entertaining as it was palatable.
On our final night, we were comfortably seated in the presence of Miami’s finest in the sophisticated and luxurious main dining room of Meat Market . On recommendation, I ordered a Cucumber Southside cocktail, packed with gin, cucumber and mint, which was a touch too sour and not as sweet as it was presented. Going straight for mains, we collectively drank a smooth Show Malbec (Mendoza, 2010) selected from the award-winning wine list, and all tucked into plentiful hunks of Creekstone Farm beef, prepared to perfection according to our tastes, with sides of gouda tater-tots and sweet potato fries.
Where To Shop
Our first taste of shopping commenced on Lincoln Road. Reflecting on the previous week’s wintery amble down Regent Street in London, we happily sauntered along taking in the mix of designer and high street stores, popular restaurants and vibrant shopping atmosphere that equals London or New York, but with the benefit of a warm climate.
To satisfy our indulgent desires, we strolled admiringly around Bal Harbour , the most profitable luxury goods shopping destination in the U.S. (of its size). With shops such as Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co and Jimmy Choo all under one roof, hours were lost in pure retail bliss.
Mentioned in the special edition of Vogue’s Best Dressed Guide, we journeyed to North Miami Beach to the legendary C. Madeleine’s Vintage Clothing Store. With good fortune, the inimitable Madeleine Kirsh was in the store and offered an animated tour of the 10,000 sq ft property providing a taste of 30s Hollywood glamour to 80s material girl and of course, a remarkable Chanel collection. The range is vast but do bear in mind small vintage sizes!
Top Tip
Try something a bit different in Miami with Roam Rides . Led by an experienced guide, we kick-started our vespas and zoomed through the streets of Miami to arrive, within 15 minutes, in the noteworthy Wynwood Art District. Stopping to enjoy the local and international street art and, on one occasion, speak with a local artist at work on his weekend hobby, we were introduced to the precision involved in the evolving and lucrative skill of street artistry.
For further information, visit:  www.MiamiandBeaches.com
27th November 2011
Fiona Sanderson explores this perfect Winter escape….
Arriving by water taxi from the airport, I realized why they call the island of Nevis, “Queen of the Caribees.” Green and lush, I was struck by the magnificence of the clear water and its 3,232-foot Nevis Volcano. There’s something about this small, island that immediately puts you at ease – a real sense of tranquility and a “time gone by.” With its old churches, windmills, and architecture, this little island of only seven miles long seduced me on first sight.
Four Seasons
Arriving at the Four Seasons Hotel, I was genuinely surprised by the friendliness of the staff who could not have been more welcoming. This large hotel of 196 deluxe rooms and suites has managed to keep a simple but sophisticated décor with an old charm in line with the Nevis spirit of a stress-free life.
Full of all the activities you could wish for, including an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, swimming pools, outdoor Jacuzzi and spa, I chose to take the more relaxed alternative and walk along their long white beach dipping into the sea in between the pelicans who were diving into the sea beside us.
Over a few days, I tried all their restaurant’s dishes which were delicious – I will happily say that our feast of giant scallops, wagami beef and melon candy floss was truly memorable. A must is the Four Season’s Island Hopper massage given by Beuvita. This really did complete my luxurious stay and truly put me in the Nevis frame of mind! This hotel has all the facilities for a fabulous romantic stay or a treat for all the family. Out of all the Caribbean luxury hotels, this is certainly the one to stay at.
By The Luxury Channel
23rd November 2011
The Maldives, a honeymooners’ haven, are a utopian enigma, a symbol of paradise, no matter what race, creed or class its visitors are. There are few places on earth that conjure up the sentiments of peaceful relaxation, pristine beauty and complete exclusivity. Perhaps the Seychelles or a few Pacific islands could draw comparisons but the archipelago of the Maldives, just south of Sri Lanka, are a unique prospect due to the variety and size of the islands on offer. The exotic appeal is clear, and the visible liberation from urban life is the cornerstone of this unique holiday experience.
Two Luxury Channel contributors chose the Maldives as their dream honeymoon destination and the resorts of Soneva Gili and Baros Maldives certainly delivered.
Soneva Gili
21st November 2011
Antonia Peck reviews a 17th Century boutique Bed & Breakfast with serious style credentials….
Hope House in Woodstock, Oxfordshire is a 17th century boutique Bed & Breakfast with serious style credentials. It has recently been invited to join Condé Nast Johansens – celebrating the best luxury hotels, spas and venues.
Why Stay?
Despite its status as the ancestral home of the Money family (whose job it was to collect monies to build Blenheim Palace circa 1708) – Hope House is a beacon of contemporary hospitality in the pretty town of Woodstock.
The owner, operator and maître d’par excellence is Paul Hageman, a descendant of the Money family, who runs the hotel with his wife in the most accommodating of manners. Paul has years of experience in the hotel industry and as such has the foresight to anticipate your every need.
There is certainly a market for an elegant B&B such as Hope House. It stands as a clever, modern offering that does much to update our interpretation of the local B&B. With Blenheim Palace as the main draw and Bicester Village’s famous fashion outlet nearby, you can see why Hope House is attracting the right sort of crowd.
Who Stays Here?
With so many brides choosing Rousham House & Garden or Blenheim Palace as their wedding venue (a booking every weekend for years at the latter) means that Paul is accustomed to hosting the bridal party. However, he is just as adept at hosting Formula 1 drivers and their entourage (from the nearby training site), loved-up couples looking for a luxurious place to rest their heads or jet-lagged tourists hoping to explore one of Oxfordshire’s finest towns. All guests relish the Hope House experience, enjoying the exquisite pleasure of having both privacy and top-notch service – making it the perfect choice for special occasions.
The Rooms
All the rooms at Hope House have a unique interior character and are of generous size (80-85sqm). Guests can stay in one of four apartments:
The Marlborough Suite on the top floor has large oak beams and gilt finishes. The lower ceiling height makes it a comfortable and elegant bolt-hole.
The Churchill Suite on the first floor has high ceilings (4 meters high) and two beautiful bay windows. Its interior design is the most contemporary but with traditional features, such as meticulously restored oak paneled walls and a beautiful stone fireplace.
The Blenheim Suite is the only one bedroom apartment (making it a favourite for couples), with a large marble fireplace and some original antiques. It is the most traditional and regal of the rooms.
Meanwhile, the hotel’s Six Bells Apartment in the building next door is available for a seven night stay, and has been done up to a very high standard. The apartment has a balcony and a seating area overlooking the garden.
All In The Details
7th November 2011
Antonia Peck escapes to Lake Como and stays at the world-famous Villa d’Este….
Your heart will break when it is time for you to leave the Villa d’Este, Cernobbio – such is the rare beauty and stillness of the place. For some, the source of enchantment is the ornate architecture of the villas and gardens, for others it is the serenity of the lake. For female guests, perhaps it is the knowledge that George Clooney roams nearby. Whatever the inspiration, the villa has had a feel for grandeur since it became a hotel in 1873, and I doubt its patrons have changed all that much. Most are glamorous couples or families, all pearls and furs, and Hermes scarves. It’s a subtle celebration of taste at the Villa d’Este. However, the hotel is full of contradictions that reflect the glory of the ordinary and real (welcoming loyal staff, white plastic deck chairs and glossy tailed ducks) to the sublime and ornate (wreathed statues, grand chandeliers, champagne at breakfast and the somewhat shocking price of a caesar salad).
Only an hour away from Milan Malpensa Airport, the hotel is accessible by car, helicopter or private boat. There are many attractions at the hotel, including an 18-hole golf course, an exceptional spa (note the exquisite Venetian plastered walls – and especially brilliant reflexology treatment) and the lakeside swimming pool (the indoor pool is not quite as glam – women have to wear little blue swimming caps that are not flattering!)
However, for many it is the garden and famed mosaic arch that is the most spectacular attraction. Mythological scenes and cleverly irrigated water features make it both unique and romantic. The hotel’s famed chef, Luciano Parolari, can be seen here in the mornings selecting the fresh herbs and flowers from the villa’s garden. If we get the face we deserve in this life then working at the Villa d’Este can be no bad thing, such is the natural charm and enthusiasm of the chef! His cookbook Tales of Risotto, 50 Recipes, And Culinary Adventures from Villa d’ Este will give you a little insight into the gourmet excellence you can expect when dining here.
The 159 rooms in the hotel are decorated with a nod to the 17th century and all are unique. Antique elements, combined with large televisions and comfy sofas make the rooms accommodating and nice to return to. The big Jacuzzi baths and the generous use of marble throughout makes it feel very indulgent.
The blow of our departure was softened by the fact that we were due to take a train to Florence in order to stay at their sister hotel, Villa La Massa. However, Villa d’Este will be difficult to trump and will be missed.
Contact
7th November 2011
We review the Four Seasons, Hampshire and enjoy the ultimate stay-cation….
Take the risk out of the stay-cation and any fears of Fawlty Towers-style histrionics and check-in at the Four Seasons, Hampshire. If you want perfect service, probably the most comfortable bed in the world, an internationally-renowned spa and a hotel that will welcome your lover and/or your brood of children – then this is the place to stay! The hotel is only 45 minutes from Heathrow Airport and surrounded by the scenic countryside of Dogmersfield Parkland. The long drive leading up to the hotel anticipates the building’s 18th century facade (that would have an institutional air, if not for the pretty portico statues). The heritage listed garden is manicured to perfection and definitely there to be used; guests can enjoy outdoor activities such as horse-riding, archery, pigeon clay shooting, croquet and cycling. However, for those who want a more restful weekend, then commander a sofa and enjoy tea and champagne in the Library, or sneak off to the spa. Guests can do as much or as little as they want here and are sure to return home feeling relaxed and rejuvenated.
The Rooms
Guests can stay in the old house or in the modern wing, both of which have good views of the grounds and are connected by a network of glass walkways. Room interiors are rich in traditional finishes, including parquet flooring and woven carpets that lend a classical and elegant feel. It’s luxurious but not ostentatious. The marbled bathrooms are a treat – with deep soaking baths, separate glass enclosed showers, Asprey toiletries and fluffy dressing gowns.
The Restaurant
Descend the sweeping staircase for dinner and be greeted by the welcoming staff. The restaurant has a traditional menu that will please the palette but not surprise it. Request a table by the window to enjoy the beautiful sunsets and views of the terrace and parkland beyond.  The set menu – A Taste of Hampshire – is recommended. This five-course meal is a perfectly proportioned selection of locally sourced produce (such as crab to start, beef brisket and then crêpes for dessert) is around £90.00 a head (including wine and service). The breakfasts have a relatively good selection (be sure to try the blueberry muffins!).
The Spa
The Four Seasons, Hampshire Spa is often mentioned in the media’s Top Ten Spas lists. It is an outpost of the spa chain ESPA and offers treatments using local flower and fauna – for example, a soothing chamomile and sage massage (£90), lavender, rosemary and mint back treatment (£70) or a wonderful Four Seasons Escape package that will leave you relaxed and invigorated (£179.00). A unique touch is the sauna with clear quartz crystal, and a steam room with crystal amethyst. Meanwhile, the gym is extremely well equipped with a good selection of the latest machines, cardio equipment and weights.
7th November 2011
Suzanne Aaronson, founder of whatsworthit.com , reviews the Four Seasons Santa Barbara in California….
“How often do you find a stunning architectural structure, facing the ocean, with a jaw-dropping 50 meter pool/restaurant club, an intimate spa, pretty tennis courts, good food, top service, 5 minute walk to a cute village and biking/boating/vineyards at your doorstep? Tough one! This Santa Barbara institution, located directly in front of a pretty beach cove in Montecito, is one of the best Four Seasons in the US, from the grounds (20 acres of established manicured gardens) to the fabulous views and the special Spanish colonial architecture. They really don’t miss a beat — there is something for everyone of all ages and tastes here. Play it quiet or with family, friends and kids. I’ll return year after year — one of my worldwide favorite resorts.” – Suzanne.
Need To Know
Great For:
A family vacation, as a couple or solo for local sporty activity and calm. Request a bungalow room if solo or with your doggy; an adjoining bungalow with the kids is also a lovely option — step outside to the garden.
Go With:
The kids. The resort is particularly welcoming to families with children as it has a children’s pool, various kid-friendly activities, Kids For All Seasons programmes and babysitting. Make sure to check out the crooked-neck giraffe at the Santa Barbara Zoo. If you go solo or with a lover, there are perfectly fabulous options.
Memorable Moment:
The unbelieveable lap pool on top of the ocean at Tydes before a day of local wineries in the nearby Santa Ynez valley while the kids were entertained and well looked after by the Four Seasons staff.
Best Time To Go:
5th June 2011
Suzanne Aaronson, founder of whatsworthit.com , reviews JK Place in Capri, Italy….
“One of Italy’s best hotels and the only hotel in Capri that actually sits on the sea front. Quiet enough to escape the ‘scene’ (or be at the very epicenter — you choose). Feels like a private home, perched on the cliff and filled with art, antiques and fresh flowers: the perfect mix of style, energy and relaxation. I designed my bedroom after their living room!” – Suzanne
Need To Know
Great For:
A stylish stay that doesn’t forget where it is — a pretty island off the Amalfi coast.
With Whom:
5th June 2011
Suzanne Aaronson, founder of whatsworthit.com , reviews Birkenhead House in Hermanus, South Africa….
“This is one of my favourite lesser-known properties in the world – absolutely love it, and feel so at home here. During whale season is when it must be experienced – you’ll just not believe how many and how close! Atmosphere is one of an extensive private home: nothing is too much trouble for the super friendly and efficient staff, and the setting: wow, wow and wow! The property perches on cliffs overlooking Walker Bay and is so close that you feel as if you practically are in the ocean — the whales smiling at you!” – Suzanne
Need To Know
Great For:
A few days of relaxed activity away from the hustle bustle of Cape Town, getting out and about in the dreamy, beach-side setting for hikes, picnics and whale-watching.
With Whom:
Take a romantic few days as part of a longer trip in the South African region and truly treat yourselves.
Memorable Moment:
Staff set up breakfast for us on the edge of the patio, from where we saw about twenty 15-metre whales frolicking in the ocean. I’ll never forget the feeling.
Best Time To Go:
August-November are best for whale-watching (with August as calving season). Just magical and the weather is perfect: crisp sea breeze, sun shining and these incredible creatures surfacing meters in front of you.
Be Aware:
5th June 2011
The Luxury Channel meets Eva Ziegler, global brand leader at Le Meridien and W Hotels….
From Times Square to Leicester Square, stepping into a W Hotel transports you into a world of “WOW!” Global Brand Leader Eva Ziegler tells us how this flirty, chic atmosphere is perfect for the modern honeymoon.
With their slick design, bright colours and seductive lighting, W Hotels hook in the world’s cool crowds, and that includes honeymooners wanting to begin their life together at the sharp end of chic.
W London opened it’s doors on Valentine’s Day 2011, which, as Eva tells us, rather appropriately coincided with the W Hotel’s aim to provide “insider access to a flirty escape.” She reveals that “as with all W Hotels, the attitude of W London is playful, whimsical and full of intrigue.” There’s certainly a high-energy atmosphere that hits you as soon as you walk through the door – the glittering lights cast by 600 miniature disco balls guide you to the cocktail lounge and make you want to dance before you’ve even had your first sip!
“As in all W cocktail lounges, it embraces a sip, drink and flirt culture,” Eva explains. “It’s cool but it’s not too cool. We stick to an informal, casual approach: pinstripe by day, let loose by night!” Most importantly, W Hotels aim to stand out from the sea of cookie-cutter look-alike luxury hotels, while still being accessible and comfortable – and nothing sums this up better than the sofa on which we sit to chat: a 37-metre, rich, black leather chesterfield sofa, reputed by Eva to be the biggest ever made in the world.
Each W Hotel is a destination within a destination and W London is no different. Eva is quick to point out that it brings together everything under one roof that honeymooners might desire, so they never have to stray too far from the bridal suite. “W London is the ideal pre and post wedding spot,” she confirms. “We would recommend it for hen parties and as a romantic city break.” A private dining area in their Spice Market restaurant, which overlooks London’s busy China Town, a cocktail lounge and Wyld, their guest-list only nightclub, all gear towards this, as does the Away We Stay spa and private cinema room. “The excitement and high energy of this flirty cocktail culture makes it an ideal space for wedding buzz,” she tells us.
Let’s not forget the key ingredient – the bedrooms. Eva recommends the EWOW Suite. “It’s the ultimate in indulgence,” she confides. At £5,000 per night, guests are guaranteed an “Extreme WOW.”
In honour of it’s arrival in the capital’s cinema and theatre heartland, W London commissioned top director Ricardo Ponti to film a short piece of the Away We Stay spa in the hotel, featuring Helena Christiansen, David Gandy, Tom Hollander and of course – W London.
To see the film and find out more about W London, visit www.wlondon.co.uk
By Lauren Steventon
4th May 2011
The Luxury Channel chats to Karolin Troubetzkoy, owner of Jade Mountain in St Lucia, to find out what it takes to create the perfect wedding abroad.
Why do people choose Jade Mountain as a wedding destination?
It was created for the celebration of life and love – there could not be a more scenic location to tie in with these most memorable of occasions!
What are your top tips for organising a destination wedding?
Ask the resort how many weddings a day they arrange, as you don’t want to wait in a queue!
Keep it tropical and work with what is available at your destination location, and don’t try to bring urban design ideas and colour schemes to your beach wedding.
Think practically when you are picking your wedding dress for a tropical wedding. The dress should “breathe” and not make you uncomfortable in hot temperatures. The same goes for the groom and guests.
Take your new wedding rings off when you go snorkelling or scuba diving! Very often, they have not been sized properly and may come off easily before you know it.
How many people would you recommend inviting?
We can host a wedding ceremony on our Celestial Terrace for up to 50 guests. For a wedding dinner celebration at Jade Mountain, we prefer wedding parties to not be larger than 20- 24 guests. The entire concept of Jade Mountain is that of an exclusive oasis. If the wedding party becomes larger, we usually suggest that some of the guests stay at our sister property Anse Chastanet.  We would also use one of the restaurants there for the wedding dinner, or one of our 2 beaches there for the actual wedding celebrations.
It is best to hire the entire resort?
Jade Mountain is an ideal (but very pricey) property for resort buy-outs for up to 60 guests. Our minimum stay requirement would be 5 nights.
What should the bride wear? What should she take into consideration when planning a Jade Mountain/Caribbean wedding?
Be creative – Jade Mountain is one of the world’s most unique properties so why not think out of the (bridal) box!
What about guests – how should they pack?
Think light and tropical.
How do weddings in warmer climates differ from traditional English/European weddings?
Aside from the temperatures, brides and grooms usually enjoy the less formal approach with our tropical weddings.
Do you get very different styles of wedding, or do they tend to follow a pattern due to the couple having picked the resort?
We approach every wedding as the unique affair it clearly is. We try not to invoke some pattern but encourage our brides and grooms to share their vision with us, which we then take on board and form our proposal from. We are so fortunate here with a 600 acre estate, two beaches, a plantation with historical ruins from the 18th century, plus of course Jade Mountain with the Celestial Terrace, our yachts, and the nearby waterfalls. You can see the potential for each couple picking their own unique wedding location and celebration.
Do most people inject a little local culture (e.g. food, clothes or music), or do they keep it traditional?
We very much encourage our brides and grooms to have a “local” element, whether it is for the rehearsal or the wedding party itself.
How does the celebration of life and love manifest itself in the essence of Jade Mountain?
You don’t want to come out of your sanctuary…best advice is to send all your guests home after the wedding and enjoy time by yourself!
Is it difficult for the couple, organising a wedding far from their home? How does your team make it as stress-free as possible?
Our wedding team here can make all arrangements and they are very organised. It usually just takes one or two e-mails and a telephone conversation to create a basic outline and we can take it from there. In essence, it is up to the individual couple how much creative control they want to maintain through the process. We always recommend for them to let us do the work, and just focus on the enjoyment of paradise….
Why is St Lucia so associated with romance?
I have always suspected that there must be something special in the air. I am not kidding! Especially as our region, Soufriere, is so blessed with its natural beauty, that this seems to have a mellowing effect on the soul, which in turn perhaps makes you more relaxed and therefore perhaps more receptive to “feelings.” Whatever it is, I am still not immune to it myself!
What other activities could couples do on the island?
I am a great fan of water-based activities, from day sailing, or sunset cruises. Depending on the make-up of the group, some couples take their entire wedding party to go jungle biking in our plantation of Anse Mamin and we also have zip-lining available. There are many possibilities including, of course, snorkelling and swimming right in our Anse Chastanet bay.
Do you have any particularly romantic stories from the resort?
Oh dear, not a day goes by where we don’t have something especially romantic happening! We have baked cakes with hidden proposals, we have arranged underwater wedding proposals, we have created special set-ups in the sanctuaries, on our boats or the Celestial Terrace for such proposals.
What makes the perfect wedding in the Caribbean?
Sunshine helps! And we all want that perfect sunset on your wedding day but some things we simply cannot promise. In the end, it has to be being in a spectacular location with those around you that you love.
Thinking ahead, what would be the perfect Caribbean honeymoon?
To be in a spectacular location with the one you love and have a great service team available whenever you want.
By The Luxury Channel
3rd April 2011
One day you’re glowing, unable to chisel the grin from your face and basking in a deluge of post-engagement congratulations. The next, the stressful reality of actually planning a wedding sets in. Whether you’re dreaming of a classic country wedding or a luxurious beachfront getaway, one key element resonates loudly; a bride wants to look and feel her most beautiful on her wedding day, and get her body back to its former glory.
Yet, it can seem impossible to find the time for self-indulgence, when so many logistical questions and queries relating to the wedding are coming your way. A mere yoga class or facial often gets crossed out of the over-extended diary for a meeting with the florist or an email exchange with the caterers.  The only solution is to block out a whole week of pampering and run away into the arms of the experts!
Set against the heavenly backdrop of the Andaman Sea, Arcanum Wellness Retreat nestles in a hidden location on the mountainous Thai island of Phuket. Blending traditional Eastern ideals of cuisine and hospitality with a contemporary Western approach to fitness and nutrition, it’s hidden from the eyes of the world in a private cove of white sand.
There, TJF Personal Trainers are on hand to transform your body and mind. Having worked with super-high profile clients, they understand the toll stress can take on a body so their support begins at home and continues post-retreat. While you’re there, personal training plans, massages, sinfully indulgent treatments and mind-clearing early morning yoga sessions on the beach all come together to un-knit your brow.
The experience is designed to enhance a guest’s physique and posture but also inject an air of tranquillity and positivity into their lives.  With the florist badgering you for a final decision on table decorations and your mother and mother-in-law-to-be battling it out in the wedding day style stakes, who wouldn’t jump at the chance for a little inner peace?
To celebrate the retreat’s inception, there will be a series of three exclusive ‘Total Body Transformation’ courses over the summer, ideal for anyone with a summer or autumnal wedding on the horizon, and there are three weight loss courses in June, July and August.
Find out more at www.arcanum-phuket.com
28th February 2011
Antonia Peck enjoys an opulent stay in one of the city’s grandest hotels.
You could stay in trendier parts of New York and a hotel more suited to women in their mid-twenties, but it was my friend’s first time in New York and I wanted her to experience the city at its most elegant. The hotel experience needed to be a treat and not a trend-led hotel that however ‘cool’ could have been anywhere in the world. So we decided to stay near Park Avenue (for her love of shopping) and near Central Park (for a bit of inner-city calm). With this in mind, why not stay in a hotel like The Pierre, with an eighty-year pedigree, in a building originally owned by a Getty?
The doormen at the Pierre wore fur hats with double-breasted coats and opened our taxi door, greeting us warmly as they took our bags into the opulent lobby despite the increasingly heavy snowfall. We checked in and had a quick peek at the cocktail bar before proceeding up to our suite in the art-deco lift (with lift-attendant in white gloves). It was past midnight but the hotel staff welcomed us with cheerful smiles and old-fashioned charm.
Our room was at the back of the hotel and on the eleventh floor; the view was non-descript but unimportant (other rooms have spectacular views of Central Park).  The soft cream furnishings, high ceilings, seal grey sofas and red-orange trimmed cushions created a warm and considered atmosphere.
However, our first night at the hotel was all about the beds (having just arrived from JFK airport). These single beds were kitted out with the softest linens imaginable. According to my friend, it was like being ‘kissed by clouds.’ Like a great massage, the sheets at the Pierre melted the muscles and calmed the mind. As the snow continued to fall (19 inches of the stuff by morning) we nested in these beds and stretched out our toes with glee.
Our first breakfast at The Pierre saw us seated at a lovely table in the hotel’s brasserie style restaurant – Le Caprice (part of Richard Caring’s group). A lot has been made of Le Caprice being a London restaurant in New York but it felt perfectly at home in its Upper East Side location. Original prints of Jean Shrimpton in New York, captured by David Bailey, lined the walls in a nod to the ‘NYLON’ connection and the restaurant was filled with important-looking executive diners conducting meetings or showing off their latest accessories. Anna Wintour, Ivanka Trump and Jennifer Lopez have all dined here.
After breakfast, we explored the hotel – looking in amazement at their impressive conference, ballroom and state-of-the-art gym (complete with grand paintings and Persian-inspired interiors).  The massage room lay beyond for post-workout treatments and bottles of water, bowls of fruit and a ballet bar were all available for guests to use at leisure.
Before venturing out into the snow for our first official day in New York, we decided to do three very girlie things to welcome ourselves into the hotel. The first was to turn on our room’s Bose-wave iPod system and listen to Alicia Keys’ Empire State of Mind, whilst dancing around our suite in fluffy white Pierre slippers. The second was to crack open some seriously expensive Dylan’s Candy Bar gummy bears (it was 11am in the morning – so a little early for Champagne!). We ended our impromptu slumber party with an episode of Gossip Girl on our flat screen TV until we were finally ready to take on snowy New York – fur coats at the ready!
About The Pierre
The Pierre, on Fifth Avenue overlooking New York’s Central Park, first opened in 1930.  The iconic hotel with 189 guestrooms, including 49 suites, was acquired by Taj Hotels Resorts & Palaces as the luxury chain’s U.S. flagship in 2005.  The Pierre, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, reopened on June 1st 2009, following a $100 million renovation programme.
Rates begin at $895.
28th February 2011
Expect royal treatment at The New York Palace and their restaurant, GILT.
Can you ask your New York taxi driver to ‘take me to The Palace?’ In short, no, but I had expected him to know this glamorous hotel of choice for so many smart and international travellers. My taxi driver looked at me as if I had lost my mind and had serious illusions of grandeur. I tried correcting my instructions with reference to other nearby New York landmarks: ‘opposite St. Patrick’s Cathedral or near Burberry’s headquarters,’ until we finally arrived on the corner of 50th Street and Madison Avenue.
Upon arrival at The New York Palace, my ego and royal expectations were lavishly justified. This 55-story building that rises above the Villard Mansion provides decadent accommodation with the most luxurious suites on the top 14 floors. The view from the rooms is captivatingly modern and old world at the same time – with St. Patrick’s lying majestic below and panoramic visions of New York alive with activity across the skyline. The bespoke services and interiors, in these suites, are equally impressive. Alas, we did not stay in the rooms, but were instead taken to the spa for a taste of palace pampering. Naturally, and in keeping with my regal mood, I chose the wine-infused deep-tissue massage!
Looks restored, we went downstairs to the Madison Room for a signature cocktail and some truffle-infused French fries (why not!). GILT bar is set in the nineteenth-century grandeur of the Villard Mansion’s historical Gold Room. The beauty and energy of the bar cannot be overstated. From the decorative elements to the seriously modern Zaha Hadid bar – this is an experience destination and is ‘happening’ every night of the week.
The time had come to dine at GILT restaurant. Their Executive Chef, Justin Bogle, has received critical acclaim for his modern American menu, which has received high praise from around the globe (and earned itself two Michelin stars). The restaurant is also loved by New Yorkers seeking to impress their darlings, providing a great and intimate destination for an anniversary or a birthday (with only 55 diners at a time). When dining at GILT, guests select from a three-course prix fixe menu, the five course tasting menu or put themselves completely in the hands of the chef and the sommelier for the Grand Seven Course tasting Menu.
I am glad to say that it was a breathe-taking gastronomic experience, from start to finish. Food was presented with artful expertise. These delectable morsels rolled out of the kitchen like colourful, fragrant ribbons of perfection. For me, this meant ruby red shrimp, nori, toasted sesame and turnip with pear, to start, and Monkfish with charred eggplant, cauliflower and harissa, for the main. Meanwhile, the wines that were served were extensive and our sommelier, knowledgeable. The Wine Director, Patrick Cappiello, who manages the restaurant’s 8,000 bottle cellar, looked slightly baffled (and I only hope pleased) when I declared him a ‘wine genius,’ such is his skill at choosing wines to complement the food you have chosen.
GILT is open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday.
The New York Palace
3 nights in a Superior King Room on a room only basis PLUS a 50 minute restorative massage per person and 3 course Prix Fixe Dinner at GILT (excl drinks) £475 per person. Based on two people sharing a room, for travel in low season.
For more information or to book an unforgettable tailor-made holiday with Quintessentially Travel to New York contact:
Tel: +44 845 224 6915
By Antonia Peck
28th February 2011
In keeping with The Luxury Channel’s exploration of New York’s classic hotels, Antonia Peck checks in at one of its best.
Piers Morgan and his wife, Celia Walden, were photographed at the Four Seasons in Manhattan for Tatler in an article entitled, The Comeback King. They posed in the lift and their suite on the 48th floor (with incredible views including the Empire State building, majestic in the background). The message being – come to New York, stay at the Four Seasons and you’ve made it.
The Four Season’s brand power shows little signs of waning. Stars attract stars and this hotel chain is not only a leading but trusted destination for the rich, famous and international glitterati. From Marilyn Monroe to Henry Kissinger, as well as the above-mentioned new host of CNN’s evening interview slot, the Four Seasons New York has enticed and lavished them all. Need we mention that the suitably monikered ‘Brangenlina’ are also huge fans of the Four Seasons brand.
It’s not hard to see why. The 52-floor, limestone building was designed by I.M. Pei, an uncompromising visionary who also designed the Louvre’s world famous glass pyramids. The average size of a room is 600 square feet (the size of a two bed apartment) and the marble bathrooms have large baths that run hot in 60 seconds. Add to this a walk-in wardrobe, high ceilings and tall curtains you control from the comfort of your bed, and you are clearly on to a winner.  Other perks include the infinitely knowledgeable concierge who knows exactly how to get you a table at the latest haunts – which, in New York, changes every week. Additional details such as an exceptional laundry service and good business facilities help keep guests looking and feeling smart, prepared and ready to take on the world.
The Four Seasons is perfectly located in the centre of Manhattan for shopping trips and business meetings, with taxis whizzing by at all times. Meanwhile, the hotel breakfast sets guests up for the day with inventive fruit juices, eggs with asparagus, and delicious pancakes. Arriving back to your hotel room feels like an occasion and a treat. You will be reluctant to leave this most hospitable of hotels. Book now for the ultimate New York experience.
By Eadaoin Kelly
22nd February 2011
White sports, blissful spa tratments, gourmet experiences and Winter wonderlands – what better way to spend a romantic few days than a long weekend in Austria?
We flew directly to Salzburg airport and were swiftly transported, by taxi, through the winding mountain roads. The journey lasted approximately 1.5 hours and cost €140 and reached a cool -17 degrees on route to Hotel Rosengarten in Kirchberg, Tyrol, an a equally chilly -12 degrees.
Hotel Rosengarten
After being warmly greeted by the hotel owner, we were shown to a suite known as ‘Burgundy.’ Each of the 26 rooms and suites in Hotel Rosengarten are named after some of the delights that can be found in the ground floor restaurant.  The hotel is situated just 500 meters on foot (1.1km by road) from Maierlbahn (which accesses the Kitzbühel ski area) and is near  the 55 lifts and 170km of slopes in the Kitzbühel, Reith and Kirchberg areas.
Hotel Rosengarten opened on the 9th December 2010 and is a development of the gourmet restaurant. We unpacked our weekend bags in our open plan, glassy suite. There could be no better way for young lovers, disembarking the slopes after an arduous day’s skiing, to unwind and prepare themselves for a delectable dinner in the restaurant.  The hotel proudly hosts the only restaurant to ever achieve 2 Michelin stars in Tyrol, a fine tribute to the work of Chef Simon Taxacher, who seamlessly incorporates a number of local ingredients into a menu of gourmet French/Mediterranean inspired cuisine.
The menu at Simon Taxacher was inviting and luxurious.  The taste sensations, textures and visual displays were simply beyond the realms of our ordinary imaginations. The Goose Liver marinated with Gianduja bitter chocolate and Granny Smith apples was surprisingly and delicately combined to result in a magnificent dish. The Turbot, which effortlessly incorporated the texture of crunchy, curry-infused carrots and fresh cockles was followed by Savarin of Champagne, finger limes and kumquats.   Candy floss and petit fours ensured that with each bite, the senses were aroused with an innovative, unique flavour sensation. Everything about this experience was faultless and truly thrilling. The Restaurant Manager, who was extremely knowledgeable, maintained a formal demeanour whilst making guests feel welcomed and relaxed.  She really ensured that this culinary experience was truly original and enjoyable. The sommelier recommended Austrian wines as per our request, including Riesling Senftenberger Piri, 2009 (M. Nigel) and Riesling Achleiten Smaragol 2006 (Prager), which complimented the dishes to perfection.
The next morning brought about a severe drop in temperature, creating a postcard-perfect, snow-capped mountain view, and, importantly, the perfect skiing conditions (for my other half!).   Wanting to make the most of my time at the hotel, I enjoyed a number of the exquisite spa treatments offered by Hotel Rosengarten.  It seems that the Chef even had a hand in creating the spa’s menu, as beauticians utilised products incorporating ingredients from the kitchen.
I began with a zesty fruit peel, vegetable body mask with a tranquillity body massage, finishing with a truly relaxing, vitamin body wrap leaving me refreshed and re-energised. Despite the cool temperatures in the spa area and the seemingly strange choice of music, the treatments were administered to perfection by the spa manager, resulting in one very satisfied customer.
After a day of pampering and treatments, mountain walking and skiing, we joined forces again for a light bite in the bistro. The strong lights and music within the bistro which accompanied this locally inspired and delicious menu, was quite the contrast to our dinner the previous evening. This concept, I was reliably informed, aims to allow each individual guest to dine formally or informally depending on their needs.
The hotel also offers a cookery school, for those whose interests lie within the kitchen rather than out on the slopes.  Book now for the Cookery School which can host a party of up to 12 people at €320pp and includes a lunch and dinner experience with the culinary expertise of Simon Taxacher. The school is open on Tuesdays.
Rooms and suites from €190 – €480 per night.
Top tips: Relax at the bar with the charming and informed Bar Manager. Visit for the Cookery school and the summer spa treatments on the terrace.
By Lauren Steventon
6th December 2010
Lauren Steventon explores the new fashion suites at Sofitel Fauborg Saint Honore and takes a peek at two more designer destinations.
Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg, Paris
Hidden just off one of the most fashionable streets in Paris is the terribly chic Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg.
Just a short walk from the Place de la Concorde, the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, and the main department stores, this is the place to stay if you have some serious shopping in mind. Perhaps surprisingly, given its central location, the hotel is a haven of tranquility – just the place to sit back after a serious bout of shopping. The courtyard garden is lovely for a summer lunch, surrounded by greenery and far removed from the Paris crowds.
The hotel isn’t just in a fabulous location for Paris-bound fashionistas: the Prestige suites were recently unveiled. Designed by Didier Gomez, they evoke a chic Parisian style themed around what the city is most famous for – fashion. The hallways are lined with black and white couture images, welcoming visitors into a world of timeless elegance.
In the 21 suites, ivory, grey and black mix with amethyst, bronze and crystal as modern day meets 18th-century, Parisian style. Contemporary furnishings sit side by side with original features, cornicing and classic imagery. Bedrooms and sitting rooms are comfortable, with plenty of room for stowing your purchases, while large bathrooms (complete with Hermes products) are perfect for preparing for a fashionable night out.
Even that doesn’t sound lavish enough? The Couture Apartment boasts a sleek, designer look complemented with the painterly photography of Catherine Naundorf. In the bedroom – huge chestnut satin headboard with hand-painted wall paneling; in the lounge – separate dining and work spaces: a fashion-focused home from home in the heart of Paris.
17th November 2010
The Grand Hotel Kempinski introduces its new Le Spa and celebrates with a spectacular Dior fashion show.
After an effortless early morning flight, a 5 km taxi ride from Geneva airport and a manic afternoon full of meetings – I was finally able to take some time to absorb the breath-taking views overlooking Lake Geneva, from my hotel-room balcony. The Grand Hotel Kempinski hosts over 400 elegant and comfortable rooms (including a number of warm and luscious presidential suites). The hotel is modern, chic and extremely welcoming.
However, I had not flown to Geneva to enjoy the views. The purpose for my stay was to indulge in its latest asset – ‘Le Spa.’ Grand Hotel Kempinski is now proud to offer a truly deluxe spa, offering a plethora of globally-sourced treatments. Le Spa is privileged to play host to the award-winning Cinq Mondes therapies, a range that draws from ancient techniques while respecting strictly natural and ethical principals.
The spa, lovingly designed by Tarek Hegazy, royally appointed architect, wanted to offer something subtly ‘sexy,’ that would encourage all of the guests’ senses. He wanted to create something you can see, something you can absorb and something you can enjoy. With every step, from start to completion, a feeling of blissful relaxation takes over. Warm Swiss woods, with rich, deep colours, have been carefully chosen to compliment the serene atmosphere, while creamy marble tops envelop the long corridors and spacious treatment rooms. The result is an inviting and invigorating spa retreat for the body and soul.
In the evening and in celebration of ‘Le Spa’ opening – Dior goddesses (models) took to the floor with a couture Dior fashion show. The champagne flowed while creations of pure elegance and sophistication swept across the floor to erupting applause. Effortless flair and true beauty overwhelmed spectators.
As the sun set, we continued to sip cool champagne and cocktails on the terrace bar, while enjoying decadent and delicious canapés under the crisp, colourful Geneva sky. The perfect way to complete a wonderful escape from the day-to-day madness of London life. My trip had proven truly blissful and I only wish I could have stayed for longer.
Eadaoin Kelly travelled with the Swiss airline Baboo.
27th September 2010
Eadaoin Kelly books into Chewton Glen in Hampshire to recover after holidaying with the extended family.
With several demanding family events ahead of us, my better half had decided that there was only one way that we were going to get through the week – with the promise of pure indulgence firmly installed as the light at the end of the tunnel. It was with determination that we therefore arose at 6am, after a grueling few days of screaming children (someone else’s) and forced fun on the packed beaches of Penzance, we made a dash for what promised to be a tranquil and luxurious 24hrs on the edge of The New Forest.
Pulling into the 130-acre grounds of Chewton Glen in Hampshire, our stresses of the last few days evaporated. As our car was whisked away, we were given a warm welcome – this warmth and attentiveness was to be a recurring theme of our visit – and shown to our beautifully appointed suite. Every detail had been thought about, from the latest technology all discreetly tucked away behind artful screens to the spacious balcony with views over the croquet lawn. At this privately-owned hotel and spa, you immediately know that a huge amount of attention to detail has been lavished everywhere, a sure sign of an attentive management team.
To ensure that all the tensions of the familial visit were washed away, we booked into the spa for an afternoon session. Looking through the extensive menu of treatments – it says that it would take a week of non-stop treatments to get through them all! – I settled on the full body massage while the other half opted for the back massage….heaven!
Back to our room to chill out and then get ready for dinner – we enjoyed champagne and chocolate on the balcony to the calming knock of mallet on ball from below us on the lawn. At dinner, we selected from the Menu Gourmand in the elegant dining room where the ever-attentive staff catered to our every whim with a great knowledge of the wines, menu and local produce throughout the five courses.  The food was clean and delicious, the only sticking point was the Slow Poached Anjou Pigeon with sautéed foie gras, pumpkin and sorrel, not a dish we were used to, and although we were reassured that it was meant to be eaten cold, we didn’t see the appeal!  The Champagne and Strawberry Jelly Terrine with Chewton Glen elderflower sorbet was so refreshing – overall, a very delicious experience.
After the most comfortable night we have had in ages, we dragged ourselves to the indoor pool (there is an outside one too), before a scrumptious buffet breakfast that contained the freshest local produce, where we made a number of trips so as to ensure we tasted everything!
After over-indulging at the breakfast table, we sauntered down to the beach, to work off our over-expanded waistlines. A very refreshing 20-minute walk through the woods and then onto the stunning Jurassic Coastline was just what we needed.
A fantastic respite from the hectic family holiday and the perfect battery-recharger before heading back to the bright lights of London. Well done other half on picking such an idyll!
By Effie Kanyua
27th September 2010
The Luxury Channel went to Sardinia – the place to be seen – to experience one of the most glamorous events in the sailing calendar. Nestled on the pristine coastline of the Costa Smeralda, the exclusive resort of Porto Cervo offers some of the best views of the Mediterranean.  Rolex hosts two international yacht races here each year, attracting super-yachts and stylish people from across the globe. However, away from the port and glitterati, Effie Kanyua found some hidden treasures.
Where to visit
To discover the best beaches and most authentic Italian hillside restaurants, you’ll need to hire a car.  Once you’ve done that, all the islands treasures are open to you, including the famous Orange Beach, which hosts fantastic beach parties during the summer months. Sporty types will love the famous 18-hole course at the Piccolo Pervero, while those who seek total solace can easily find beautiful deserted beaches in order to relax and unwind.
Away from the crowds and only 20 minutes away from Porto Cervo is San Panteleo.  Bursting with character, this charming village is set around a picturesque piazza full of lively cafés and several artisan shops. With its stone-built cottages, stunning position and relaxed atmosphere, artists through the ages have been inspired to settle here.
Where to shop
The Old Town boasts all the luxury brands you could ever need: Versace, Louis Vuitton, Prada and every shop imaginable to rival Bond Street or 5th Avenue. For those with a smaller budget, ask the locals for the details of the best markets (normally held on Friday mornings) where local produce and crafts are sold.
Where to eat
Clipper is a great pizza restaurant, owned by the charismatic “Volpi,” (which, as he will proudly tell you, is Italian for ‘fox’). Other highlights include Spinnaker, a great choice for pasta and seafood dishes, and, for those of you who really want to blow the budget, both Cipriani and Boujis have restaurants in the area.
Where to go out
Arrange a visit to the super exclusive Costa Smeralda Yacht Club or the bar at the luxurious Cala di Volpe hotel. Finish your night off with a little dancing at the Phillipe Starck-inspired Sottovento Club or, for a truly unique experience, drive 20 minutes from the centre to Ritual in Baia, Sardinia. This imposing club is cut into the side of a mountain, which houses a labyrinth of cave-rooms for party types to explore at leisure.
Where to stay
One of the best hotels is the Colonna Park Hotel, which boasts a perfect location and reasonably priced, traditional Sardinian-styled rooms. For those on a bigger budget, head to its sister hotel and the newest five-star resort on the island – the Colonna Resort. That said, the Cala Volpe Hotel, along with it’s decadent sister hotels Patrizzia and Romanzino, are still the best in town for ‘star gazers.’   For real understated luxury, we recommend the four-star Hotel Balocco. It was the first hotel to be built in Porto Cervo and is romantic, stylish and friendly.
Take a look at the best of this year’s Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup and Rolex Swan Cup in Tales From the High Seas .
By The Luxury Channel
14th September 2010
Ticked off the big five? There are plenty of other animals around the world to fascinate adventurous travellers.
Polar Bears in Churchill
With his huge size, thick white coat and almost magical appearance, the polar bear is the undisputed king of the snow. Every Autumn, hundreds of the big white bears descend on the Canadian town of Churchill, preparing for their migration north, deep into the ice and snow. Wildlife Adventures have a range of polar bear watching trips, for all levels of enthusiast. Combine your time bear spotting on the ice with cultural tours of the town, or commit to the cold and head out to the Tundra Buggy Lodge at Polar Bear Point, with your days spent out on the Tundra in the eponymous buggy.
Polar Bear itineraries from CAN$7295 per person.
16th August 2010
Antonia Peck experiences both relaxation and exhilaration amidst the mountains and the roses.
There is a charming simplicity as day breaks beyond the mountains and the polo ponies gradually begin to graze on some of Kurland’s 700 green hectares.  Established as a boutique hotel in 2000, Kurland Hotel is made up of a series of Cape Dutch style buildings nestled at the southernmost tip of the African continent. Guests are enveloped by the smoky Outeniqua Mountains and Kurland’s famous dusky roses upon arrival.
Dotted throughout the grounds are the twelve individually themed suites, designed by Baroness Dianne Behr.  The rooms are furnished with a combination of family heirlooms and contemporary pieces to create a luxurious and homely environment.  The decor varies throughout but always maintains a quirky decadence. An electric blue parrot peers out from its oil-painted canvas to view the china rabbits and silk lanterns adorning the hotel.
It is all too easy to enjoy the view from the rosebud-decked veranda with a lazy glass of local wine, Pecan Stream.  However, this would be to neglect the fantastic opportunities Kurland offers to indulge in a spot of polo, golf, safari by horseback, sky-diving, bungee-jumping or scuba-diving.
There is also the chance to charter a helicopter or light-winged plane for a truly exhilarating experience of the indigenous Tsitskamma Forest. Foodies enjoy an endearingly comfortable culinary experience which includes hearty, home-made bread as part of a menu formed around seasonal produce from local farmlands. High tea is a particular favourite of The Luxury Channel and definitely not one to be missed!
Kurland Hotel, The Crags, Plettenberg Bay, 6602, South Africa
Tel: 0027 (0)44 534 8082
By The Luxury Channel
16th August 2010
The Amber Spa in Latvia has developed around a tradition of wellness. Originally just an authentic Russian bania, it has grown to incorporate a wellness centre, and, most recently, a boutique spa hotel, a place where visitors can come to either relax or explore the surrounding scenery. Latvia might not seem like your usual spa destination, but Jurmala is no stranger to health tourism.
Situated on the Latvian coast, with almost 33km of wide, fine sandy beaches, Jurmala has been a wellbeing destination for over a century. During the Soviet era, it was a favourite destination of high-ranking Communists such as Brezhnev and Khrushchev, and visitors can experience an old Soviet dacha (summer house) near the town.
It wasn’t just those in charge who sought out the healthy benefits of the sea air, local mud and sulphur waters that Jurmala had to offer, it is also a favourite spa destination for Russians, Latvians and other Baltics and Soviets. Tucked away in the woods is a wellness centre that has existed for much longer than most of the world’s new crop of spa-hotels. It isn’t fancy, the mud comes in buckets rather than decorative jars and the emphasis is on health rather than relaxation, but it still boasts a high year-round occupancy rate, cementing Jurmala’s position as one of the original spa destinations.
It is natural, therefore, that one of Latvia’s first boutique spa hotels has brought a little refinement to the traditional activities, and chosen Jurmala as its home. Amber Spa is for those who enjoy more than a little pampering and privacy with their treatments, in stylish, modern locations a ten-minute drive from the markets, cafes and concerts of Jurmala town, and a ten-minute walk from its wide beaches.
The rooms are well-equipped, decorated in different tones of amber, and pretty, rather than overly spacious or super-luxe, which is fine because most of your relaxing should definitely be done in the spa. Treatments are extensive and range from sleep-inducing hot amber stone massages to wake-you-up cold water treatments designed to tackle cellulite. For guests who really want to re-vamp their lifestyle, there are also holistic medical consultations.
Amber’s roots lie in its Bania, a traditional Russian steam bath. Like its international cousins the hamman and sauna, it’s a hot, sweaty and healthy experience. Either opt just for alternating hot steam and cool pool, or try one of the traditional treatments: soap massages, strawberry scrubs and facials using divine, natural products from Russie Blanche ( www.russieblanche.com ) are all on offer, but to really get into the spirit of things, you have to ask Tania for the traditional balsam massage: get beaten with branches in the bania while the steam takes on a lovely eucalyptus-like aromatherapy smell. There are plenty of local fans, and if their amazing skin is anything to go by, the treatment is pretty effective.
The hotel is perfect for either a seaside retreat or city break – Riga is a 20-minute drive away. In Riga, an old history battles with a new identity, as Latvia sloughs of its former Soviet personality in favour of one that is distinctly ‘Latvian.’ Everyone is open and friendly, eager to impress upon visitors what Latvia has to offer. “From Latvia,” our taxi driver proudly announces as he treats us to strawberries from a local produce stand, and we see Latvian linens in the boutiques, and handicrafts in the markets.
Take a wander around the picturesque old town, with its winding streets and historical houses, find a modern and delicious dinner in one of the stylish restaurants, then drinks at a funky bar that wouldn’t be out of place in Berlin. Everywhere you look, something surprises you, whether it’s the acres of forest, the sunny beaches or the sheer style of the place – or, of course, its first real boutique spa, a modern enterprise grown from an unexpected tradition.
6th August 2010
Dip your toes into the magical Dead Sea for a truly revitalising experience.
For thousands of years, travellers to the shores of the Dead Sea have delighted in the medicinal powers of this magical place.  To the early explorer, these turquoise waters must have appeared as an oasis nestled in between the earthy red mountains of Israel and the hazy blue mounds of Jordan, which are visible just across the water.  If it were life-giving water these explorers were hoping for, they must have been sorely disappointed: the water here is nine times saltier than the ocean and nothing lives here.
Despite its infertility, the world’s most beautiful women realised early on the life-giving properties these waters held.  The Queen of Sheba was the first to reap the benefits, Cleopatra built the world’s first spa on these shores and even the infamous King Herod holidayed here (his desert fortress Masada sits atop a nearby mountain and is worth a visit for the spectacular views alone).
Nowadays, tourists come from all over the world to experience the unearthly floating sensation you experience as you lie back, close your eyes and bob along the surface.  The water and mud contain over 21 different minerals, including calcium, magnesium, bromide, potassium and sulfate, which are said to help all manner of skin and joint complains.  The water feels strangely, but pleasantly, oily on your skin and salt-crystals crunch underfoot (be sure to wear flip-flops as they can be sharp).
There are public beaches along the shore, but Ein Bokek, one of the nicest stretches of the shorefront, has been dominated by high-end hotel spas.  However, whether you’re staying there or not, you can take advantage of hotel beach amenities for a small charge.  The Crown Plaza offers a particularly nice covered walkway down into the sea, with a covered area under which you can float in the shade – perfect for the day I was there, when the temperature hit 45 degrees!
When to go:
Not far from Jerusalem, the Dead Sea lies in the middle of the Judean desert, so it gets hot in the summer (although it’s oddly bearable).  A more pleasant time to visit is between October and April.
Do
By Antonia Peck
3rd August 2010
The Luxury Channel speaks to Matthew Robertson from Momentum Adventure and finds out what dramatic experiences they have to offer.
Does a person create the journey or does the journey create the person?
I would say that the way we create any journey is really coming from what excites us about the wilderness and the wild. I am a big believer in if there is a will there is a way. If a client wants to give it a go, then Momentum Adventure are going to make it happen for them. So back to your original question, does the trip make the client – or the client make the trip – we all evolve throughout the trip.
What sets Momentum Adventure apart?
A Momentum Adventure is designed to bring out the best in the individual. We want to challenge and give people the opportunity to get out into these fantastic environments. Many of us are ‘armchair adventurers’ living through guys like Bear Grylls and Ray Mears. There is a reason why they are so popular on television.  However, with Momentum Adventure this is not just hanging out with the experts, which can be somewhat contrived – this is learning and adventuring alongside them. Clients are not carried through the trip. They learn how to run the dogs, hang out with the Sami people, cook their food. We teach you about snow packs or how to pack your rucksack in order of importance.
Do clients go through rigorous training before departure?
We do a bit in the UK but most of the training is done on location. Momentum Adventure focuses on getting the best out of a location for its clients.  We strive to get the best of our locations and work out the best way to facilitate the ultimate trip from that particular environment.
Your trips look highly physical. How do you guide an amateur through the ‘adventure’ process?
Whatever your individual capacity, whether you are an old boy with a heart murmur or a tri-athlete – it is very humbling being in these environments.  There is so much to learn and you are sort of like a bewildered child and need a lot of guidance. The Momentum Adventure guides will help you mature into that environment, be it a desert or a rainforest, and help you learn. Confidence grows and when you leave, you are standing taller, if you like.
You offer a seriously bespoke service. What competition do you have in the increasingly popular market of adventure tourism?
Now, you know because of what we do, it’s very complicated and labour-intensive. So it is not easily replicated and as a result, we do not really have any competition.
Has the recession had any impact on the popularity of the Momentum Adventure trip?
You can’t put a value on experience. This is a way for the high-net worth to see the world.
What is it like travelling to such remote areas of the globe?
It is soul food. A lot of these places are so beautiful – when there is nobody else around and everything is so remote. You soon get into the groove and start to live the adventure. It is quite spiritual in a way. You sleep really well, there is no noise pollution, and there is no light pollution.  There is a real sense of sadness when you come back. You are thrust into this extraordinarily real environment and think back on how beautiful it was.
How do your more ‘high-maintenance’ clients cope with the more gritty side of adventure travel?
Travel can be brutal, dusty and tiring. Yet, I don’t think it has to be. I think I don’t like the phrase ‘adventure travel’ because it is so generic. It does suffer from the dirt under the fingernails – wet camping hideousness that I would not want to do or associate with. It does not have to be like that. We are about giving people really unique experiences.
Visit www.momentumadventure.com for further information, or read our article .
By The Luxury Channel
9th July 2010
It is not all that often that one spends the night with a couple of Ogres, which was what happened to me when I checked into my room at Mama Shelter, which is all about presentation with a unique twist. The Ogres in question were Shrek and Princess Fiona; they were the bedside lights in my room.  This quirkiness did not stop at masked bedside lights at this hotel in the Saint Blaise Quarter of Paris; with a quotation-filled lift and syringes drawn on the bar ceiling, this was not a conventional hotel. A collaborative design between architect Roland Castro and uber-designer Philippe Stark, this hotel is for the design conscious eclectic.  Based in an area of Paris that doesn’t immediately spring to mind (it’s quite far from the city centre), Mama Shelter is aimed at the traveler who is more Shoreditch or Williamsburg than Mayfair or the Upper East Side.
Things that work are the exceptional food, the eloquent and savvy staff, who are styled like trendy young architects in black denim, and the ‘fun chic’ atmosphere that permeates the public areas, both from the decoration and the clientele.
This hotel was on the cusp of pretension with graffiti-ed walls, mismatched furnishings and intentionally dark interiors, but prevented itself from tipping the balance with its quality detailing, such as the satin cotton sheets, in-room iMacs and Wi-Fi capability throughout.
Overall, this hotel has created an intelligent, sometimes clinical, always trendy atmosphere that plays on novelty, but remains seated in the basics of high-quality service and presentation.
By The Luxury Channel
16th June 2010
There are certain places in the world, tucked away on anonymous city streets or in far-flung climes, where the belles and beaus of the silver screen take shelter away from the long lenses of the paparazzi, the adoring eyes of fans and the demands of a life lived in front of the camera.
Hotel Lancaster
Hidden right in the heart of Paris, the Hotel Lancaster once provided refuge for Marlene Dietrich, who lived here during the 1930s. Originally a 19th century mansion, it still has the feeling of an elegant private residence. Guests can slip into the world of the sultry star by staying in the Marlene Dietrich suite, complete with grand piano and 17th century antiques.
By Emily Payne
16th June 2010
The energetic city of Kuala Lumpur has high-end brands and couture, and a heady mix of natural beauty and retail therapy await the international traveller.  KL offers one of the most unique shopping experiences in the world: a tropic Eastern backdrop, lined with malls filled with high-end brands and trinkets tailored to your every whim – from tiny boutiques and bazaars touting hand-drawn fabrics to shoes dripping in Swarovski crystals.
As night falls, the glittering lights of the Petronas Twin Towers finally tire. A day of East Asian charm turns to a night of heady expectation: a rooftop bar, cocktails and exquisite hotel rooms.
Where To Shop
The Pavilion
The Pavilion shopping mall is seven floors of spacious walkways with 430 shops, including big-hitters like Louis Vuitton and Gucci. There is a whole floor devoted to women.
Tel: 603 2118 8888
16th June 2010
The Luxury Channel visits some of the world’s most extraordinary film locations.
Lust, betrayal and fear bubble just below the surface in the film adaptation of Grahame Green’s The Quiet American, made all the more potent when set against the stunningly exotic background of Vietnam. You can retrace the steps of Michael Caine, Brendan Fraser and Do Thi Hai Yen by making your way to Hanoi, a hugely colourful city caught in between the ancient and the modern, the rich and the poor. Make your way to Hoan Kiem Lake for a romantic evening stroll, grab a cocktail and watch the sun set from the Huc Bridge. Another place you can’t miss is Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage site that has it all: a white sand beach, great restaurants and beautiful hotels – and it’s Vietnam’s Savile Row. Whether you want a Vietnamese silk dress like Phuong’s or a bespoke Italian wool suit, you can get it here in less than 24 hours.
Seville
Despite the title, David Lean’s masterpiece Lawrence of Arabia was actually largely shot in Spain and many of the ‘Middle East’ scenes were filmed in the splendid Moorish city of Seville. You can actually stay in one of the film’s locations – the luxurious Hotel Alphonso XIII, ( www.starwoodhotels.com ) which appears in the film as the Officer’s Club. A little closer to the Arabia T.E. Lawrence would have recognised is Jordan, where the spectacular desert scenes were filmed. You can marvel at the imposing red cliffs of Wadi Rum (where Alec Guinness’ Prince Feisal held court) and spot Bedouin tents from the back on a camel (or, more comfortably, from inside a jeep).
Rome
One film that was shot exactly where you would expect was the 1960s classic Roman Holiday. In Rome, it’s easy to recreate the romance that Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn conjured up in this Oscar winner. Just follow the footsteps of Peck’s American journalist as he delighted Hepburn’s cosseted princess with the most memorable and historic sites of the city. Try a little gelato on the Spanish Steps and dare to slip your fingers into the Bocca della Verita, or Mouth of Truth, which you’ll find in the Piazza of the same name. End your visit where the film ends, at Palazzo Colonna, one of Rome’s largest palaces, but once here be sure to rebel against the script – choose romance over duty and repair to the Hassler Roma Hotel, from where you can gaze down at the Spanish Steps below.
By Matthew Phillips
14th June 2010
Matthew Phillips walks in the footsteps of China’s historical pariahs and discovers that life wasn’t so bad for them after all….
Once upon a time, the island province of Hainan was the barbarous backwater of the Chinese empire. During the Song and Ming dynasties, political exiles and garrulous poets were interred here alongside criminals and undesirables. It must have seemed odd to these outcasts that, as they arrived on the shores of Hainan, banishment turned out to be a tropical paradise.
Hainan’s international reputation has altered somewhat during the last millennia. The forgotten outpost of China’s southern territories has blossomed with age. By the 1980s, a burgeoning economy, in combination with sultry temperatures, ensured a prosperous tourist industry. Hotels sprang up along the beaches like a Monopoly board. Before long, Hainan had earned its sobriquet – ‘‘the Oriental Hawaii’’ – although, mercifully, it lacks the more extreme temperatures of its Pacific twin.
Recently, it was rumoured that Hainan was slowly falling victim to decay. Those unlucky souls who have visited the British seaside will know that there is nothing more depressing than the cracked paint and empty casinos of a once glittering waterfront. It is no small comfort therefore that the Chinese government announced plans to open up the Island to large scale investment. The response to this news has been electrifying. Foreign capital already exceeds $10 billion and enterprises everywhere have pledged vast investment in local infrastructure.
If you plan on taking advantage of Hainan’s innumerable pleasures, then I strongly advise a trip to the city of Sanya, the ‘‘South Gate of China.’’ Herein, visitors will find the perfect blend of palm trees, mountains and magnificent accommodation. In particular, the Ritz Carlton, the Banyan Tree and the Mandarin Oriental all come highly recommended.
One word of warning: avoid the rainy season which floods the area between May to October or don’t even bother packing a hairdryer!
By The Luxury Channel
12th June 2010
Momentum Adventure, the exploratory travel company, help their clients evolve into confident adventurers in the spirit of a bygone age, by offering the latest in bespoke adventure travel.
If experience is the mark of a man and adventure a test of physical prowess and cunning: then we best unfold from our desks and get back to nature. In the days of ‘wily Odysseus,’ the adventurer felt the wrath of the elements and the whims of fate. Today, those wishing to embark on such a quest need look no further than the exploratory travel company, Momentum Adventure.
Tailored, bespoke and high-adrenaline – Momentum Adventure ticks every aspect of the adventurer’s wish-list. Founder Matthew Robertson is a ‘big believer that if there is a will, there is a way. If a client wants to give it a go then we are going to make it happen.’ This means training before departure, expert guidance from personal logistics managers, imaginative destinations and action packed trips.
The adventures are ‘designed to bring out the best in the individual’ – to challenge people and immerse them in fantastic environments. No longer forced to be armchair adventurers living through the exploits of Bear Grylls and Ray Mears, with Momentum you can join the best of them. ‘No one is carried through the trip – you can hang out with the Sami, cook your own food in the wild and become part of an expedition.’
For posterity’s sake, and in honour of your adventure, a beautifully bound book filled with photographs and details can be displayed with pride. Whilst not the epic poem of old; the book will serve to demonstrate your newfangled spirit of adventure.
By Alanna Lynott
12th June 2010
Alanna Lynott goes in search of the world’s most magnificent jewellery, sampling some of the finest hospitality and cuisine along the way.
Jaipur, India
The Gem Palace, Jaipur, Rajasthan is a world-renowned jewellery market. However, those in the know go straight to the Muslim quarter of Pahar Ganj, where the stones are cut and polished.
Stay at: Samode Palace to sample the decadent India of old. www.samode.com
Eat at: Castle Mandawa for a candle lit dinner in the courtyard. www.mandawahotels.com
Beijing, China
You can find strands of freshwater pearls at the Pearl Market for as little as $3. Meanwhile, the serious gems hold court on the 4th floor. The 11th Beijing Jewellery Fair is to be held from the 16th-19th July 2010 at the China World Trade Centre. Don’t be overwhelmed by the 400 exhibitions from China and 25 other countries – you’ll secure some amazing deals.
Stay at: Aman at Summer Palace for an utterly blissful experience. www.amanresorts.com
Eat at: Maison Boulud which serves excellent French fare and was Time Out’s Beijing Restaurant of the Year 2010. www.danielnyc.com/maisonboulud
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Phnom Penh is a vibrant, bustling city of magic and charm. The wonderful food, sights and sounds, its tragic history and a bright new future combine to make this an inspiring city for travelers and jewellery hunters alike. The Russian Market and the Phsar Thom Thmei have high quality gems for low prices – including sapphires from the Pailin area, which are considered amongst the best in the world.
Stay at: Bougainvillier Boutique Hotel for traditional Asian décor or The Quay for a modern refuge. www.bougainvillierhotel.com
Eat at: Locals, expats and tourists head to The Foreign Correspondents Club for a treat and the best spring rolls in the world! www.fcccambodia.com
By Sofia Celeste
12th June 2010
Sofia Celeste visits a new W Hotel that’s set to open near the World Trade Center site in May 2010.
Revival is the theme for the W Hotel New York Downtown, which is just two months away from opening its doors next to one of the most venerated sites in the world: the World Trade Center. The Luxury Channel put on a hard hat and got a VIP tour of the unfinished 58-story metropolitan marvel with panoramic views that stretch from the Statue of Liberty to the Empire State Building.
Inside, snake skin tiles and layered lamella lights make the hotel perhaps on of the wildest venues to hit Wall Street, since the days of Gordon Gecko and Bud Fox. Some 217 guestrooms and 223 private residences boast interior design by Graft, which has also worked on avant-garde projects such as Bird Island in Kuala Lumpur and Vertical Village in Dubai. A hint of Studio 54-style pandemonium mixed with sleek futuristic contours and subtle animal prints adorn rooms fit for hard core jet setters and high-powered financial types. The terrace bar and the living room lounge will certainly prove to be a hotspot after the NYSE closing bell. “We consider the project a part of the revitalization of the area. Especially the World Trade Center,” said Thomas Sturniolo, W New York Downtown’s Director of Sales. “It’s one of the first brand new hotels to open in the area.” Right now, dust still coats the luxurious black marble and pink fluorescent chandelier in the foyer, but the opening is slated for May 4, 2010.
12th June 2010
Alana Lynott helps you beat the London to New York transatlantic blues with the latest recovery treatments.
Whether it’s a few hours in the Big Apple on business or a few days shopping in London, you’ll want to look and feel your best.
The Clearing Factor
The spa at the Mandarin Oriental is generally considered to be the finest luxury hotel spa in New York and you can see why. Located on the 35th floor of the Time Warner centre, you feel as if you’re floating above Central Park. A Zen-like atmosphere pervades and just stepping through the doors will make you feel a little less care-worn. The ‘Clearing Factor’ is great for beating jet lag and uses full body exfoliation, lymph drainage techniques, Swedish massage, cupping, and a black clay body wrap to restore the body and clear the mind, returning you to a naturally revitalised state.
The treatment lasts 2 hours 50 minutes at $675 on a weekday, $695 on a weekend.
12th June 2010
Lauren Steventon caught up with Amanda Ross, the new Fashion Director of W Hotels.
Summer 2010’s Fashion Week might be over, but fashion lives on in every aspect of our lives. No one understands this better than W hotels, who have recently appointed their first Global Fashion Director, Amanda Ross.
With a career spanning fashion magazines, film and television work, consultation for the biggest names in the biz and celebrity styling, Ross is perfectly placed for helping W find what’s ‘latest, newest, hippest and coolest’ in the world of fashion. Lauren Felicity Steventon caught up with her at the new W Barcelona.
So what is a W Global Fashion Director?
Well, I’m going to create a global perspective for them on fashion. I’ll be sourcing designs for The Stores that are in each property, and also for the Global Glam collection that W launched last year. Each individual property has a unique sensibility, personality and style, so it’s my job to pair the right designers with the right Store in the right properties. You have to take into account the climate, the people who travel and visit, what they want, what they’re looking for. You have to be in touch with how people travel today. Everybody wants something unique, nobody wants to travel and see the same shops. People are looking for something that feels unique and individual. I’m very excited to find what I think will be inspiring to the W traveler.
How did the position come about?
W has supported the fashion industry for years with chill out areas at the tentsIf you like a certain environment and aesthetic, it doesn’t stop, there should be a synergy or a thread throughout the property. We have to stay on top of what lotions and potions stay in the rooms… What’s next after the iPod stand? What’s next in fashion?
What do you particularly like about the W brand?
They have an incredible vision, they really embrace what’s next. That’s what we’re used to in the fashion community, predicting what’s next, so it’s very exciting to pair with a brand like W because I think fashion and design are obviously quite integrated, and I think there are endless possibilities for the future.
What sort of things will you be sourcing for The Stores?
Something that the guests haven’t seen before. Today everyone is so educated, so we have to really think ahead about what we offer. It’s about putting a collection together: “ This tells a story for this property.” I will go to a designer and ask them to make something exclusive. I think that’s what’s really exciting. People want to feel that when they buy something, they can’t buy it anywhere else, so you have to create this kind of allure. Fashion is very emotional, it’s not what you need, it’s about what you want, so you have to constantly create that desire by working with the designers on exclusive pieces for The Stores.
Will these pieces be different in the different properties?
Yes, I think that’s what keeps it interesting. When you pack for a trip, you pack differently for the different places that you go. For example in Barcelona we are talking to Ailanto, who come from the Basque country, and Joaquin Trias, who has been showing in New York, but is based in Madrid. I want the travelers to have a unique experience; they don’t want to have to run around the city to find something special. I went to a shop today, Jean-Pierre Bua, and I found this amazing jewelry, created by a Russian designer from vintage pieces, for example a vintage Dior scarf made into a chain.
Does travel inspire you?
Yes. I’m interested, I’m intrigued. I went to Istanbul, and I found necklaces that I ended up putting on ‘Lipstick Jungle’, the show I styled, in a film, I used them in a fashion show, the celebrities I work with went crazy… Everybody since has been saying “I went to Istanbul, I went to the market, I didn’t find that”. I’m a trained editor, I’m very curious, it never stops. So inspiration is walking the street, a book, films, on the catwalks.
What other fashion moments can we expect from W?
That’s one of the things I’ll be addressing when I get back to New York: what is next for W. What’s worked and what’s next. Maybe it’s about supporting a young designer and helping them with their show. I’m in an investigative period, and I need to understand where we are now, what the zeitgeist is, what people are doing, and where is best to take W in the future.
Finally, what is your idea of Luxury?
Good food, comfortable environment and beauty…
By Lauren Steventon
12th June 2010
Lauren Steventon checks in to check out the newly redesigned rooms at Duke’s that are aimed at the solo female traveller.
St James’ is London at its most traditional: suited gents heading to their clubs whilst bespoke dealerships line the streets. However, the new female General Manager at Duke’s wants to make it more welcoming for travelers of both sexes.
Dukes’ hotel, set in a quiet cul-de-sac (St. James’ Place), is an elegant English townhouse, minutes away from Mayfair and Buckingham Palace and located in the centre of London’s old-world and male orientated club-land. The hotel has been a celebrated beacon of luxury for in-the-know travelers for many years but with the appointment of their first female GM, Deborah Duggen, a conscious effort is being made to give the venerated hotel a heightened feminine touch.
Dukes’ has always had a lively history and charm – it was a firm favourite of Oscar Wilde and Byron, two men with a notorious understanding of women’s desires. Now the hotel has had several rooms re-designed with the solo female traveler in mind and known as The Duchess Rooms.
The rooms are decked out in pretty pastels with spacious Italian marble bathrooms. They aren’t the largest rooms in London but they are cosy and welcoming. Each guest in a Duchess Room has a personal welcome card from Deborah with her direct telephone number should they have any questions, concerns or needs. Whilst, lots of little feminine touches have been added to make female guests feel at home: fresh flowers, glossy magazines, ladies slippers and a selection of delicious Dukes’ chocolates. However, men need not despair, not all rooms have been modified to suit the feminine aesthetic and the hotel’s restaurant and bar still offer the surroundings that inspired the libertines of old. Try the martinis – it’s a piece of at-table theatre.
By Alanna Lynott
12th June 2010
Mexico has offered travelers excitement, romance and breathtaking beauty since it became popular in the roaring 1920s. Today, due to Mexico’s popularity, there are numerous hotels and resorts to choose from.  The Luxury Channel’s Alanna Lynott recommends five unique hotels to meet your every need.
One & Only Palmilla
The One & Only Palmilla combines distinctive Mexican artistry with glamorous five-star luxury. Nestled in a lush oasis on the tip of the Baja peninsula, where the Pacific Ocean meets the sea of Cortez, Palmilla offers the ultimate escape. Rooms are gorgeous with finely woven fabrics and delicately patterned ironwork giving each suite a unique flavour. There is a spa, yoga facilities, even a fully staffed yacht available for private parties. The hotel was built in 1956 when it was only accessible by yacht or private plane. It was the tropical hideaway of choice for Ernest Hemmingway, Jean Harlow, Bing Crosby and President Eisenhower to name a few.
Best for: Honeymoons and romantic breaks
12th June 2010
Escape to Kauri Cliffs for the perfect retreat.
Enlightened entrepreneurs have long since recognised New Zealand’s potential as a haven for those in search of the perfect getaway.
One such pioneer, Julian Robinson, has arguably founded the most palatial of these establishments at Kauri Cliffs. Situated to the north of Auckland on New Zealand’s Matauri Bay, this majestic hotel has already been showered with awards. The result is a central lodge of colonial design accompanied by a progeny of designer suites. Each of the 22 guest suites incorporates a private porch, walk-in wardrobe and open fire place. Such homely familiarities create an environment that is both seductive and immediately reassuring.
Kauri Cliffs is the ideal destination for isolation seekers and for those who wish to avoid the aridity associated with other secluded corners in the world. There are 6,500 acres of salubrious parkland flanking a coastline ornamented by a series of half-submerged peaks. Built into the architecture of this invigorating landscape is a world class golf course. The 72-par Championship course, which overlooks the Pacific Ocean, is as much a delight to wander through as it is to play.
Although golf is one of the hotel’s key selling features, do not be afraid if, like me, the thought of lush fairways and putting greens does not set your heart on fire. Whilst friends and partners scurry off to compare golf handicaps, there are a multitude of other pleasures which, for us dissenters, are all the more intoxicating. Gourmet picnics, boar hunting and spa treatments – to name but a few – can all be enjoyed on-site at Kauri Cliffs.
Peak season at the lodge is between December and March and it is advisable to book early. Regarding transfers, if the 4 hour drive from Auckland seems unnecessarily strenuous there is a local airport at Kerikeri. Failing that, private helicopters can be arranged on request.
For rates and reservations visit the website:
By Antonia Pearce
12th June 2010
Antonia Pearce booked a stay at the famous hotel and spa in an attempt to find her inner-goddess.
The Regina Isabella, on the island of Ischia, is a beautiful, old world hotel. Wooden antique furniture, marble floors and seaside views make for a glamorous impact.
Ischia is famous for its mineral rich springs and therapeutic thermal waters. In its 1960’s heyday, Elizabeth Taylor and Clark Gable (the former on the island to film Cleopatra) set the tone by sunbathing in white swimsuits and evoking the spirit of la dolce vita. So it came to pass that generations of goddesses, from Greco-Roman to the silver-screen made Ischia their retreat, their passion, their medicine.
Days began with carrot juice and fruit for breakfast, or champagne for those so inclined. Followed by a variety of spa treatments (try the Tui na facial massage) and a splash in the thermal, mineral rich pool (with the only down side being the embarrassing yet compulsory shower caps). Whilst, afternoons were spent by the sea, drinking coconut smoothies and being charmed by waiters who espoused the intricacies of Dante and the Italian language. A little swimming and site seeing in the afternoon made for pleasant sun drenched days.
The Regina Isabella, on the island of Ischia, is a beautiful, old world hotel. Wooden antique furniture, marble floors and seaside views make for a glamorous impact.
Ischia is famous for its mineral rich springs and therapeutic thermal waters. In its 1960’s heyday, Elizabeth Taylor and Clark Gable (the former on the island to film Cleopatra) set the tone by sunbathing in white swimsuits and evoking the spirit of la dolce vita. So it came to pass that generations of goddesses, from Greco-Roman to the silver-screen made Ischia their retreat, their passion, their medicine.
Days began with carrot juice and fruit for breakfast, or champagne for those so inclined. Followed by a variety of spa treatments (try the Tui na facial massage) and a splash in the thermal, mineral rich pool (with the only down side being the embarrassing yet compulsory shower caps). Whilst, afternoons were spent by the sea, drinking coconut smoothies and being charmed by waiters who espoused the intricacies of Dante and the Italian language. A little swimming and site seeing in the afternoon made for pleasant sun drenched days.
The Regina Isabella’s spa is one of the main draws for the hotel. All hotel guests are invited for a medical consultation with Medical Director: Dr. Paolo Magrassi. This charismatic and erudite doctor, who spent his early career as a cardiac surgeon in New York, takes a pragmatic approach to any ills.
He gave prudent medical advice that complimented my rather indulgent approach to my holiday i.e. that if I was here to relax then I best book myself appointments with the spa’s ‘Wellness heroes’ who specialise in massage therapies. And for those with real aliments, it is the thermal waters and muds that are prescribed: mud that has been used to treat infertility, respiratory illnesses and skin complaints for thousands of years. As evidence of this, the doctor took me on an adventurous tour of the Greco-Roman ruins that lie dormant below the hotel’s spa. Here, with torch in hand we saw first hand what the Romans had known all along – that the thermal water and mud of Ischia have long had the power to restore health and vitality. Stone outlines of hot water pools and the presence of Roman columns serve to verify the facts.
The Thermal Spa is open from late March to mid November and for two weeks in December.
Room Rates from 310 Euros.
Tel: +39 081 99 43 22
By Lauren Steventon
12th June 2010
Lauren Steventon picks up cupid’s bow to pinpoint some of the most romantic escapes from around the world.
Whether you love it or hate it, there’s no avoiding it… St. Valentines Day is fast approaching. If you haven’t thought about a romantic getaway yet our choice below will leave you with no excuses.
Hôtel Pavillon de la Reine, Paris, France
You can’t talk about Valentine’s Day without mentioning Paris, City of Love. Fear not, there’s still a way to enjoy that old-fashioned French amor while avoiding cliché. Le Pavillon de la Reine is tucked away in Le Marais, on Place des Vosges, the very square that has played home to Victor Hugo and Madame de Sevigny. Surrounding it are fashion boutiques, excellent restaurants (try L’Alivi on Rue du roi de Sicile for surprisingly delicious Corsican fare in a simple setting) and even some actual French people.
Last September rooms were overhauled by Didier Benderli at a cost of about €120,000. Rustic flagstones and beams sit side by side with elegant greys, lilacs and neutrals. The 54 bedrooms are super private and boast features such as four poster beds, beamed ceilings or beautiful patterned wallpapers. Last year also saw the new Carita spa. There are just two treatment rooms, so book in when you book the room.
Wandering the streets around here feels like Les Liasons Dangereuses meets Fashion Week… Hip young things mix with beret-toting old men, all meandering through street upon street of classic Parisian abodes (the Pavillon itself was built in 1605). The same mix of modern and classic Paris extends into Le Pavillon de la Reine: not too fashiony, not too cool, but not too old-school Paris either. Just elegant, and just right for a cosy trip à deux.
Room rates from €380.
By Antonia Pearce
12th June 2010
Antonia Pearce samples eco-luxury at its most divine, with a percentage of your room fee going towards saving the rainforest.
The Datai Hotel, on the island of Langkawi, has all the hallmarks of an imperial residence. For over fifteen years, the hotel has been a beacon of luxury, a jewel off the Malay coast that counted Baroness Thatcher as a fan. Away from the dynamic yet increasingly western magnetism of Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi is an island with a gentle almost mythical appeal. Few locations in the world can boast such an exotic mix of virgin rain forest and tranquil beach. However, this is exactly the juxtaposition that has made The Datai the place to visit.
It is quite extraordinary that a place as beautiful as Langkawi is not completely overcrowded with tourists. Instead there is a quiet, loyal (albeit, rather glamorous) visitor who returns year after year. Romantics and nature lovers should stay in the villas nestled deep within the rainforest. Standing high upon wooden stilts, with cosy interiors and dark wooden shutters.
To get a feel for the landscape and culture of Langkawi, guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in the islands two great passions; nature and gourmet cuisine. For the natural world, visitors turn to The Datai’s resident naturist: Irshad. He is a man adept at inspiring wonder in even the most cultivated of urban dwellers. With a hypnotic tone he makes the rain forest come alive with colourful birds, numerous creatures and tales of miracle plants.
One of the hotel’s greatest joys is the spa. Located deep within the rainforest and by a freshwater stream, lose yourself in tranquility baths filled with rose petals and enjoy an expert Abhyanga massage. Bliss achieved, set off for a walk on The Datai’s private beach and delight in a paradise found.
In February 2016, Michel Roux will bring a taste of his highly acclaimed three-Michelin-starred restaurant The Waterside Inn to The Datai Langkawi. Accompanied by chef Simone Tricarico, pâtissier Stephanie Aubriot and Jordi Fumado from his front of house team, Roux will host three five-course dinners and a masterclass. These exclusive showcase events will enable guests to meet and learn from one of the world’s most celebrated chefs and indulge in the very best food and wine in one Southeast Asia’s most exotic locations.
To find out more about The Datai, go to www.thedatai.com .  To find out more about rainforests across the globe, go to www.worldlandtrust.org .
12th June 2010
The small, but chic, capital of Denmark holds a myriad of stylish surprises.
While politicians gather in the Bella Center for the UN Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, this fairy-tale city is getting ready for what it does best – putting on a magical display of lights and events to welcome in the holiday season.
An often overlooked luxury destination the small, but chic, capital of Denmark hides a myriad of stylish surprises.
Centering your trip around Kongens Nytorv, the largest square in the city, puts you in the perfect location for sugarplum fairies and shopping for Fendis. Max Mara, Prada, Birger Christian and the flagship store of Georg Jensen silver are found on Strøget.
Strøget runs through the heart of central Copenhagen from Kongens Nytorv to Rådhuspladsen, where you’ll find the younger fashion stores like Zara. This is also home to Scandinavia’s largest department store, Magasin du Nord, good for all those last minute stocking fillers. If the weather turns inclement, close by is Det Ny Illumit, with six floors of designer shops, nine restaurants and a spectacular glass dome on the top floor.
Walking under the twinkling white lights and peering into shop windows depicting scenes of old-time Scandanavian life will inspire you to treat yourself to something traditional, and Royal Copenhagen’s showroom at Amagertorv, filled with beautiful porcelain, silver and crystal, is the place to acquire an essential heirloom Christmas plate. Try Bing & Grøndahl (the world’s oldest series of collectibles) or a Royal Copenhagen plate (1908). Another century-old tradition is the specially designed holiday dessert spoon and fork. For other, larger antiques, walk down Bredgade – which runs from Kastellet to Kongens Nytorv and enjoy the view of Queen Margrete’s Amalienborg castle.
The best place to stay for shopping and access to the best of Copenhagen’s dining is the Hotel D’Angleterre, located a stone’s throw from the Kongen Nyvert Metro stop. Four-times selected Denmark’s best luxury hotel at the World Travel Awards, D’Angleterre is located in a landmark 1755 building overlooking the majestic square and its picturesque ice rink. This is simply the best location to experience the pulse of Copenhagen. If you intend on making a lot of purchases, upgrade to one of the hotel’s luxury suites overlooking the square and have even more room to spread out and enjoy your stay. Their personal shoppers know the city inside out and can point you towards the finest local boutiques you might otherwise miss. Even if you are staying elsewhere, the restaurant’s cocktail bar is worth a stop – a tie is not required but you might feel underdressed without one.
Shopping is not the only pleasure to be had – enjoy traditional Danish oxtail and Skagerack lobster in Michelin-starred Kong Hans Kaelder, situated in a romantic wine cellar in the oldest building in Copenhagen, just four minutes away from d’Angleterre. If the crisp weather or your holiday heels make that cobblestoned walk sound a little daunting, venture just outside to Brasserie Ego, an intimate space for dining any time over the festive period.
Stay through New Year and enjoy the traditional New Year’s speech from Queen Margrethe, broadcast at 18:00, and then finish the night by enjoying the fireworks at Kongens Nytorv or City Hall Square. Bring your glogg along for warmth or if you stay at D’Angleterre just throw open the windows and listen to the crowds welcome in 2010 in traditional song.
Glædelig jul and Godt nytår!
Hotel D’Angleterre: www.dangleterre.com
By Sunshine Flint
12th June 2010
Staying at these five spectacular palace hotels in Rajasthan will make you feel like a king or queen.
India is a land of legends, an exotic cornucopia of manmade and natural beauty. The most sweepingly romantic corner of the country is Rajasthan, the Land of Kings. Home to fairy-tale stories of Rajput princes and Mughal emperors, famed cities of pink sandstone and fabulous desert forts and palaces, Rajasthan never stops being a feast for the senses. See The Luxury Channel’s program in Rajasthan on the Gems of India.
Rajvilas
Built in the style of a Rajasthani fort, entering Rajvilas outside of Jaipur is like stepping back to the time of the Rajput princes. From the main building, there is a heavy brass and wood door that leads to a narrow moat–the only way to the 71 rooms and villas set into the 32 lushly-manicured acres. Gravel paths lead to the villas, pairs of rooms that lead off from a central fountain in symmetrical style. The pool (complete with elephant fountains) and two-story Banyan Tree spa are a welcome respite from the heat. Or take a long soak in your room’s step down marble tub that overlooks a private garden.
You may never want to leave the world of make-believe but the city of Jaipur is not to be missed. First stop, the medieval Amber Fort (reached on elephant back) and its bejeweled and painted palaces. Then, head into the old city with its straight roads and intersections laid out by maharaja and his architect in 1727. Jaipur became known as the Pink City in 1876 when the maharajah ordered it painted for the visit of the Prince of Wales; now residents are required by law to keep the buildings that color. Stop into some of the government-approved shops (your guide will be sure to take you to one) and have a sari or tunic made from the finest muslin or silk. They will be sewn up and delivered to your hotel at night. And don’t miss the gem palaces to purchase the incredible jewels made in the same way for the past thousand years.
12th June 2010
Leels’s first palace hotel opens in Udaipur, offering ultimate luxury in a romantic heritage city.
A palace fit for a Maharaja recently had its soft opening in Udaipur, in India’s Rajasthan. Set on the banks of beautiful Lake Pichola, The Leela Palace Kempinski Udaipur has 80 luxurious rooms and suites and captivating views of this romantic heritage city and the surrounding majestic Aravili Mountains.
Renowned architect Bill Bensley and interior designer Jeffrey Wilkes have created a modern palace recalling the grandeur of Udaipur’s historic past. Huge domes crown the roof of The Leela as overhanging wood balconies, or jharokhas, adorn the walls and lofty corbel arches decorate the doors. Guests enter a grand courtyard with flowering trees and fragrant landscaped gardens. Mosaics of peacocks and the Tree of Life embellish the interior walls. A long dramatic pool borders the lake. Inside The Leela, shimmering light reflects off the thikri, the traditional Mewari mosaics of mirrors, enhancing the “palace” ambiance. In this fairy-tale setting, guests will feel like royalty.
The luxury boutique hotel has three restaurants, a lounge and bar and a 10,000-square-foot Spa Guest rooms – all have spectacular views of Lake Pichola. The design is contemporary with traditional elements of Rajasthani artistry. Exquisite fabrics are embroidered with regally-inspired designs and carved wood furniture has mother of pearl inlays and brass tarkashi work. Decorative ornaments include: hand-crafted white marble lotus flowers, carved silver elephants and vibrant paintings of puppets from Rajasthan folk tales. The opulent Maharaja Suite has its own dining room and study, a private pool, a Jacuzzi and its own massage room.
Open 24 hours a day, The Dining Room, under the guidance of Executive Chef Karim Hassene from France, offers an extensive menu of dishes prepared with fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables from The Leela’s organic garden. When Sheesh Mahal, the palace’s rooftop restaurant, opens at the end of the summer, guests will dine under the stars on recipes from the royal kitchens of India. Guests can also opt to lunch at the pool or take a proper afternoon tea on The Verandah.
The Spa at The Leela offers all the traditional treatments as well as Ayurvedic therapies in its 14 treatment rooms, including spa “tents” set amidst the palace’s gardens. Steam rooms, a Jacuzzi and a fitness center with personal trainers form part of the spa, as do daily yoga classes.
For more information go to: www.theleela.com or email: [email protected]
By The Luxury Channel
12th June 2010
Four of New York’s downtown neighborhoods are home to some of the city’s best new places to stay, with stunning views, hot restaurants and plenty of cool to spare. Here’s why when you’re next in town, you’ll probably be checking into one of them.
Thompson Les
Rising above the Lower East Side, this concrete-and-glass, 18-story monolith can be seen from blocks around, but its height does mean that the 141 rooms have fantastic views of the city, from lower Manhattan to midtown and beyond. The concrete grey, black and metal décor of the rooms ensure industrial chic throughout, while the floor-to-ceiling windows let guests be voyeurs, one of New York’s best pleasures. There are a few surprises like the third-floor pool and lounge sunken behind a high wall for a bit of South Beach on the East River, and the private bar and balcony which can only be accessed by guests and members. The main restaurant, Shang, attract locals and out-of-towners alike for glamorous cocktails and chef Susur Lee’s pan-Chinese dishes. Those in the know enter from the Orchard Street entrance, which has a staircase leading directly to the second-floor eatery and bar, to avoid going through the lobby.
By The Luxury Channel
12th June 2010
This month Missoni is to open its second hotel. The location is Edinburgh in Scotland, where the brand has renovated a collection of historic buildings in the Old Town area to create a 136-room boutique hotel.
The hotel has been created in partnership with The Rezidor Hotel Group and has been designed by Rosita Missoni, co-founder of Missoni, who now oversees the Missoni Home division. As well as featuring Missoni’s trademark prints, the hotel will have works by Rosita Missoni’s favourite designers, including Marcel Wanders, Hans J Wegner, Eero Saarinen and Arne Jacobson, some of which have previously been in place in the Missonis’ family home. There are also pieces by Scottish designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
The rooms have a black and white palette with bursts of colour and use Missoni linens and toiletries created for the Hotel Missoni brand using a Missoni fragrance. Additions include an espresso machine in each room, healthy mini-bars and Missoni bathrobes and slippers. There will also be a Missoni Cucina restaurant on the first floor which is the trademark concept of the Hotel Missoni brand and seats 100 people, as well as a Missoni Bar in the lobby. In an interview with Luxury Briefing Rosita Missoni said, “The Missoni Cucina concept was a very natural thing for us as Italy has such a strong history of hospitality. We wanted it to be warm and relaxed and feel like an Italian home, with good Italian cooking using fresh ingredients that are in season.” There are also three private rooms for events.
The Edinburgh property will be followed by a 169-room Kuwait City outpost of the Hotel Missoni concept, due to open in summer 2009. After that a 250- room Oman property is to open in early 2012, located in Jebel Sifah, close to Oman’s capital Muscat.
12th June 2010
The Luxury Channel goes for a gastronomic holiday experience in Catalonia.
Time+Space Cadaques is a unique holiday experience, where a privileged few get the chance to spend a weekend in a stunning modernist villa experiencing the best food, wine and culture that Catalonia has to offer.
The Ses Vistes villa, from which the Time+Space weekends are based, is a stone’s throw from the house near Cadaques where Salvador Dali lived and worked. To reflect his influence on the Cap de Creus area, Time +Space Cadaques take their guests on expertly curated tours to explore the Casa Dali, Dali Theatre-Museum and the local town of Cadaques, which has its own incredibly rich cultural history – Marcel Duchamp, Man Ray and Picasso all spent their summers in Cadaques.
As well as having the chance to spend quality time in the extraordinary landscape of the Cap de Creus that inspired the great master Salvador Dali, guests experience a myriad of gastronomic delights.
In residence at the Ses Vistes villa is Michelin-starred chef Paco Perez, whose experimental cuisine reflects the essence of the Mediterranean Sea. Paco trained closely under Ferran Adria, the maestro chef of El Bulli, and refers to Adria as the master of his culinary philosophy. Adria also describes Paco as one of his “best and most talented disciples”.
During a stay at Ses Vistes, guests are overwhelmed by the extraordinary tastes, textures and sights of Paco’s cuisine; a Salvador Dali-inspired banquet, Paco’s signature ‘Vanguardia’ creations, an ‘exquisite’ breakfast with unexpected flavours, and more. Paco is able to harness the freshest and finest local ingredients to create astonishingly elaborate meals as well as more simple traditional local dishes.
Paco Perez also has his own restaurant – El Miramar – in the nearby fishing village of Llanca, and is the man behind the Enoteca restaurant at Hotel Arts, Barcelona’s finest five star hotel, also by the sea. At Time+Space Cadaques guests spend an evening enjoying a 25-course meal at the chefs table at the El Miramar restaurant.
The surrounding area of the Cap de Creus national park (Spain’s only national park that covers both land and sea) in which the house is set offers the chance for guests to go on endless walks, swim, hire boats and canoes and even scuba dive.
At Time+Space Cadaques there really is something for everyone – art and culture, delectable gastronomy, natural beauty, and a stunning and luxurious villa from where it all centres.
For full details of the holiday, dates and prices visit www.timeandspacecadaques.com
By Emily Payne
12th June 2010
Not far from the chaos of Marrakech is a world of calm and peace. Emily Payne has some time out in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains.
It’s easy to forget where I am when it’s this silent. Particularly after Marrakech, where I danced through days of screeching hawkers, belly dancers and sizzling, hot tagines. But I left the swirling souks and chaos this morning, in search of coolness and calm in the Atlas Mountains.
Africa’s second-largest peaks separate the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines from the Sahara Desert. The rocks are warm terracotta and the higher we go, the closer we are to the snow caps that seem such an anomaly in this hot, sultry place. Dense forest and mist surround us on our drive to La Bergerie, a rural retreat with panoramic views and a tree-lined pool.
We stop for lunch in the mountain town of Arghbalou: traditional cumin-peppered salads, followed by tagines, followed by a honeyed tarte l’orange. The ‘grey’ wine, a local sharp, pale rose which tickles the palette and complements the spices is followed by sweet mint tea. We eat outside in the red, but cold glow of the impressive Atlas heights.
Indulgence is walked off with a mini-trek through Ourika valley in the high Atlas, past waterfalls, canyons, ravines and gorges weathered over millions of years. It is here I get a truer sense of Morocco’s quiet side, so different from those heady Marrakech nights. Life seems reduced to the five basic sense, and it’s so quiet that I can hear each individual bird’s song.
The land is dotted with pungent thyme, rosemary and argan – a rare fruit. The oil is extracted from the pit of the fruit, and is rich in vitamin E and antioxidants with moisturising and anti-aging properties. The oil is also used in traditional Moroccan cuisine. We are taken to a factory where I sample its earthy, olive oil like flavour, surrounded by pots of lotions and potions claiming to turn back the hands of time.
After the argan tasting, we hike further to the tiny Berber village of Imlil – sitting in the sunshine. It’s market day and creased old men shift the produce they haven’t sold, while the women carry firewood under arching backs, with a smile in their eye. We continue on from Imlil along a track lined with apple, cherry, peach and walnut trees. Passing tumbledown houses, a school and the local hammam, we reach Asni. The gypsy-like market has herbs, spices and even hay bales for sale. After the chaos we sit back with more mint tea, a sweet treat for tired walkers.
Back on the trail, higher up the mountainside, sits Sir Richard Branson’s breath-taking property Kasbah Tamodot. The walled complex has 18 uniquely designed rooms and six Berber tented suites. There are 360 degree views of the mourntains, gardens of palms, terraces, gazebos , grand rooms dressed in antique Moroccan fabrics and a large spa.
Unlike the luxurious riads in Marrakech, this place is enveloped in silence, inside the complex and out. And like Branson’s other Virgin Limited Edition properties, such as Necker Island in the British Virgin Islands, The Lodge in Verbier and Ulusaba private game reserve in South Africa, it feels privately remote and inaccessible to the outside world.
Treks in the Atlas can last from a couple of hours to an 18-day mammoth trip incorporating Berber home stays, but ours is over as the sky begins to darken. We head back to La Bergerie under the safe watch of our guide, just as the Muslim call to prayer resounds over the mountains.
The country quiet here is bliss, where the red peaks towering above engulf the senses. Each guest has their own secluded cottage and charming staff top up your wine, water or whatever you desire. The stars are bright and I retire to my cabin where a thick-quilted bed and log fire await.
It may not be forever, but a hideout holiday in the Atlas mountains is a heavenly break.
Travel facts
La Bergerie
£490 per person based on two people sharing for three nights on a half board basis
Price includes flights, accommodation, car hire and a trek through Berber villages with a local bilingual guide.
For more information, visit www.simpsontravel.com or call 020 8392 5861.
By Gavin Bell
12th June 2010
Keep your Tusan sun, it’s Autumn’s mellow mists that produce the gastronomic and bucolic treasures that give the region its spectacular glory. Gavin Bell cycles through it.
With the searing heat of summer faded, Tuscany is quiet. The grape leaves have turned from gold to russet. September is Vendemmia in Tuscany, the month of the grape harvest and a cultural event celebrated with gusto by winegrowers as an excuse to meet, eat and taste wines, and wager whose is best. One gastro treat of this month that is not in liquid form is schiacciata con uva, focaccia with leftover ripe grapes baked into it, a sweet and sour treat.
Cycling along chalk white roads in the sun, between fields of red earth on one side and green crops on the other, it looks as if the landscape had been coloured to match the Italian flag. I pass two old men walking hand in hand along a quiet country road near the hamlet of Villamagna in the hills between Pisa and Florence. A breeze ripples through a field of long grass so rich and lush and uniform that it looks like brushed velvet. The meadows are alive with birdsong and buzzing with curious insects, and there are daisies and poppies and Spanish broom, and cornflowers and marigolds too, shimmering along hedgerows and dry-stone walls.
Amongst the classical composition of hills and fields and slender cypress trees, the scent of flowers and fresh-mown hay linger. I approach Monteriggioni, a 13th century fortified hill town that presides over the northern boundary of a thickly wooded region known as the Montagnola Senese. Its ringed walls with 14 sentry towers sit slightly awry like a tilted crown, a kind of Camelot at a funny angle. It is absurdly romantic, exactly the sort of place that a knight of the Round Table would have popped into for roast wild boar on his way to the Crusades.
One day, during the siesta, I find myself in the village of San Donato in Fronzano. Everything is closed, but the owner of the Rio Bar takes me into his darkened store where the shelves are laden with Florentine prosciutto and pecorino cheese from Siena. He fills fresh bread rolls with them and I sit on his porch, reveling in the savoury, sweet ham and sharp flavour of the cheese, and especially his typical Tuscan generosity.
A few days later at a 16th-century farm near Florence with views over the Arno River and the Pratomagno mountains, I witness the olive harvest. It is now late September, and the farmer, his family, friends and workers are harvesting the olives by hand. It is a slow, laborious process that begins early in the morning when the hills are still wreathed in mist, and continues until a rusty old truck is fully loaded and rattles off to the local frantoio, the communal mill where the olives give up their golden oil.
Autumn in Tuscany is a slow motion affair, clinging to the ripeness of summer but dallying with the winter frost.
Where to stay:
Four Seasons Firenze: Trompe l’oeil elegance in two restored Renaissance palazzos with 117 rooms and suites and walled 11-acre garden. £400; +39 055 2626 1; www.fourseasons.com
Castello del Nero Hotel & Spa: A splendid 12th-century castle and destination ESPA spa with 50 rooms and suites in Chianti. Rooms from £385; +39 055 806 470; www.castello-del-nero.com
Il Borgo: The 14-room boutique hotel at the Castello Banfi winery is a perfect hideaway deep in the green hills of Montalcino. Rooms from £337; +39 0577 877 700; www.castellobanfi.it
Castello di Vicarello: Four secluded suites and a private villa at a 14th-century estate surrounded by gardens, woodland and olive groves. Rooms from £254; +39 0564 990 447; www.castellodivicarello.it
L’Andana: Chef Alain Ducasse’s 33-room sumptuous inn and La Trattoria Toscana restaurant in the heart of the Maremma. Rooms from £340; +39 0564 944 800; www.andana.it
Search for: