DARTS BASICS - Rules, Tips, Equipment, How to Hang a Dartboard Measurements - CyberDarts.com
 
BRISTLE                  DARTBOARDS
Tournament quality bristle dart boards are made                      of natural sisal rope fiber. Sisal fiber is made from the leaves of the Agave plant, the same plant species from which tequila is made!
These rope fibers are                      compressed under tons of pressure, banded with steel,                      and bonded to a non-warping backboard.  The final effect is that of a tightly compressed brush, which will catch and hold dart points, then close up when the darts are removed. Bristle dartboards will accomodate both steel tip darts and soft-tip darts (if long points are used).
The surface is later sanded smooth and                       screen-printed with the appropriate colors. Finally, the                      wires or other dividers are attached and the number ring fastened on with clips,                      to allow easy rotation of worn areas. Bristle dartboards should be rotated after about every 4 hours of steady use, so that wear is evenly distributed around the dartboard's surface.
Keep dart boards dry, and never apply any type of liquid to a bristle dartboard, as water of other liquids will immediately ruin the dartboard.   (Editor's note:  No matter what you hear at a bar, applying any liquid will quickly & permanently ruin a bristle dartboard.  Over the years I've personally seen dozens of boards destroyed this way. Yet darters keep doing this, because for an few hours, it seems to work.  Then the board's fiber pulls loose, forms giant blisters, and falls apart.)
Darts may be left in a dart-board for brief periods of time, such as a day or two.  If steel-tip darts are left in the board for extended periods (weeks or more) the dart points may rust and leave permanent stains in the bristles.
The English company NODOR first developed bristle dartboards in the 1930's,                      and introduced them commercially in 1936. Before that time, dartboards were generally made of elm wood, although the NODOR company also made a plasticene dartboard.
Note: It is a                      common misconception that dartboards are made of animal                      hair, such as pig bristles, camel hair, or horse hair.                      This is a myth... No such animal fiber boards have ever                      been made!
Also, the spelling "Bristol                      Dartboard" is incorrect. The name "Bristle Dartboard" refers to the sisal rope material that the board is made                      of, not the city "Bristol".
Darts setup information, including mounting information such as dartboard height and throwing distance measurements, are included at the bottom of this web page.
DARTS
Compared to many other sports, a a fairly small amount of equipment is required to play Darts.  Darts sets generally consist of 3 darts barrels, with points (usually of steel or plastic), as well as shafts and flights to help stabilize the path of the dart when thrown or tossed. Occasionally dart barrels are sold by themselves, but most major dart manufacturers market their darts products as complete sets, with barrels, points, flights, and shafts all pre-assembled, or at least in the same package. Some darts sets come packaged in carry cases with storage room for extra darts accessories.
Dart barrels are sometimes referred to as "dart pins" or "darts pins" in some parts of Asia.
Each person should have one set of 3 darts. Each                      person throws 3 darts, then removes them before the next                      person throws.
There should NEVER                      be more than 3 darts in a dartboard at one                      time.
It is difficult to share one set of darts, as it                      drastically slows down the game. Darts is not a game                      where blocking scoring areas by opponents is allowed. And                      having more than three darts in the board means more                      damaged darts & "robin hoods" due to hits from                      following darts.
As darters have different hand and finger sizes, so                      darts are not one-size-fits-all. That is another reason                      why it is often hard to pick just the right dart from a                      catalog or online site. It is really important to try the darts                      before buying, to ensure that the "fit" is just right for your hand and grip style. When buying darts, visit a darts shop that                      has boards setup for trying out the various darts styles                      available.
Brass Darts 
The least expensive type of metal dart. ( $5-$20 )
Brass is a fairly dense (heavy) metal, composed mostly of copper and zinc. It is relatively                      inexpensive, and easy to machine. However, it is so soft that the machined "grip" may quickly wear down,                      changing the "feel" of the dart. Brass Darts are commonly                      mass-produced on automated lathes, so the quality and                      consistency of the machining may vary considerably. Brass                      darts are often used as "house darts" due to low price.
Nickel/Silver Darts
( $10-$25 )
Like Brass, this is a fairly dense (heavy) metal, is                      relatively inexpensive, and is easy to machine. However,                      Nickel/Silver is harder and therefore more durable, which                      prevents the machined grip from wearing away as rapidly.                      Otherwise, similar to Brass Darts, and popular with                      budget-minded beginning darters. (Note: There is no                      actual Silver content; this Nickel and Tin alloy is often                      used for the moving parts of silver jewelry and for                      trophies.)
Tungsten Darts
Tungsten is an extremely dense metal, heavier than                      lead for the same size item.  Tungsten darts are                      considerably more dense than Brass or Nickel/Silver Darts.
Higher density materials result in  darts with smaller diameter, better "feel",                      and tighter possible groups on the dart-board. Tungsten                      is also very durable, so the machined grip will not wear                      down as rapidly as on Brass or Nickel/Silver Darts.
For darters, having all of the dart's mass                      concentrated between the fingertips greatly enhances control of                      the dart.
Tungsten is also very durable, so a high-density                      tungsten dart resists wear and the grip will last much                      longer. On softer metal darts, the grooves and rough                      knurling may wear down fairly quickly from skin acid,                      friction, and hitting other darts.
The billets that tungsten darts are made from consist                      of a variety of metals, including tungsten.  To                      manufacture the blanks for machining tungsten darts,                      tungsten powder and other metals are blended and bonded                      by heat and pressure, resulting in a "sintered" material                      that we refer to as Nickel-Tungsten (or Copper-Tungsten,                      etc.)  Common materials include tungsten, nickel,                      copper, and iron.  The exact mix of materials varies                      considerably from one company to another, based on their                      requirements for density, cost, and ease of machining.
Tungsten darts cost more for several reasons:  The metal is expensive, and since it is very dense, tungsten requires more effort to fabricate into darts.
There are 4 general categories of Tungsten darts. Typical price ranges are listed, but of course prices at different shops may vary considerably.
1.   50% to 70% Tungsten- $15 to $50 (commonly sold                      at discount stores)
2.   80%                      Tungsten - $25-$75 (popular with new league                      players)
3.    90% Tungsten- $50-$200 (high density, will hold up well,                      feel better to throw.)
4.    95% to 98%                      Tungsten - $100 - $200 (high density, thinner,                      resist wear, feel better to throw. However, slightly more likely to break.)
Discount outlets often sell low-density Tungsten darts                      without specifying the percentage of Tungsten content,                      instead just stating "Tungsten Darts". Such darts are often cheap                      Chinese imports with very low tungsten content. Look for the percentage                      of tungsten on the packaging, a higher number means that                      the dart is more dense, and generally better quality.
Tungsten prices have gone up in recent years, raising                      the price of quality darts sets. However, in order to                      offer "bargain" prices, many sporting good stores & discount outlets now sell cheap "Tungsten Darts" that                      actually contain only a tiny trace of tungsten in them.                      Many of these cheap sets are about the same density as                      brass (or less), but cost quite a bit more. Always look                      for the percentage of tungsten on the package, and buy                      from a reliable vendor.
There are also a small number of Copper-Tungsten darts                      available. This is a much softer material, with about 70%                      Tungsten content. They are generally less expensive than                      Nickel-Tungsten darts. Some darters, especially                      old-timers, like the grip of these darts as the metal                      surface develops microscopic pits after they have been                      thrown for awhile.  Copper tungsten darts have                      become much less common in recent years, with                      Nickel/Tungsten darts becoming the primary type of                      high-density darts.
SHAFTS
Shafts serve to hold the flights away from the                  center of mass of the dart barrel.  The shaft acts                  as a lever to make the flight more effective at resisting                  sideways motion.  A longer shaft will produce about                  the same effect as a larger flight.  There are a                  plethora of different shaft designs, but all serve                  essentially this same purpose.
SHAFTS - Plastic
Inexpensive, and available in many colors, but break                      fairly easily. Good shafts until you start throwing tight                      groups and breaking lots of shafts. Materials are usually                      polycarbonate or nylon, some have replaceable tops for                      greater longevity. Priced from $1 to $3.
SHAFTS - Composite
Composite type shafts, like the Alamo or Quiver, have                      plastic bases that thread into the dart, combined with                      aluminum or other metal alloy tops that hold the flight.                      These are excellent shafts, quite durable, and will not                      vibrate loose as easily as solid aluminum shafts.                      Generally available with replaceable tops for economy and convenience. Most styles priced at $2 to $6.
SHAFTS - Solid Aluminum
More rigid and durable than Plastic or Composite                      Shafts, in many colorful styles, some with decorative                      engraved stripes, flutes, or spirals. May tend to vibrate                      loose, especially on heavy darts. When used with thick                      flights, such as Dimplex or Nylon, the slots may need to                      be pried open slightly, with a dart tool or knife blade.                      Will normally bend instead of breaking when hit; just                      straighten for more use. Priced from $2 to $6.
Note: Aluminum shafts often vibrate loose when                      playing, so rubber O-ring lock washers are highly                      recommended. This only occurs when there is a                      metal-to-metal contact, so plastic shafts do not normally                      need the lock washers.
SHAFTS - Spinning
A variety of shaft styles are  designed to                      allow  flights to rotate out of the way when struck by                      another dart. Spinning shafts do nothing to improve the                      flight of the dart through the air, but they do allow                      tighter groups by allowing darts flights align with each                      other in the dartboard. Also, these shaft will usually reduce torn flights                      and "robin-hooded" shafts. Typically priced from $2 to $12.
RULES
Rules to the Darts Game of '01, (pronounced " Oh-One")
The game of '01 is the classic game of Darts, played                      world-wide. The "01" refers to the fact that the game is                      played from a certain number of points, always ending in "01". For example, the common tournament game of 501                      (pronounced "Five-Oh-One"), is played from 501 points.                      Other variations are 301, 601, 801, 1001. The higher                      point games are usually played by teams.
The object of the game is simple... each player starts with the same score (501, for example) and the first to                      reduce his score to zero wins.
Players take turns throwing three darts each and subtract                      all points scored from their own beginning score (501).                      Each player removes his darts and marks his score before                      the opponent throws. Darts that bounce off or miss the                      board do not score and cannot be rethrown that turn.
The difficult part of the game lies in the finish, known                      as "going-out". To win, you must reach zero before your                      opponent, but you must also reach exactly zero, and the                      dart that brings the score down to zero must be a double.                      Doubles consist of the numbers in the outside narrow                      scoring band and the center (small) bullseye which counts                      as 50 points and is an actual double of the outer                      25-point bull.
For instance, if you have 2 points left, you must hit a                      double-1 to bring the score down to zero. From 18 points,                      a double-9 would work. If you have an odd number left (a                      number that cannot be divided by 2), then darts must be                      thrown to reduce the score to an even number, before                      throwing at a double. For instance, there is no possible                      double out from 19, so a way to finish would be to throw                      a single-3 first, reducing the score to 16. The 16 can                      then be "taken-out" by throwing a double-8.
The games of 501, 601, 801, 1001, etc. are all played the                      same way, except for starting with more points. The game                      of 301 is different, however. Because of the potential                      for a very short game, 301 has an added difficulty...the                      game must start with a double. That is, each player must                      hit a double (any double) to start scoring. Each players                      scoring begins with the score of the first dart that hits                      a double.
FLIGHTS
FLIGHTS...What kind to use?
Flights are the fins or wings found at the                                      back of a dart. They serve to stabilize the dart                                      during flight and are made of various                                      materials.  Dart flights do not generate                                      lift. Flights only resist motion away from the                                      centerline of the dart.  (Airplane wings                                      generate lift by means of their curved shape,                                      whereas darts flights are flat.)
HARD FLIGHTS are made of a                                      stiff polyester plastic that holds shape well.                                      The layers are permanently sealed together by                                      heat during manufacture. Because the plastic is                                      harder, they don't tear as easily as Soft                                      Flights... however if they do tear, they cannot                                      be resealed and are ruined. Hard Flights do not                                      flex like a Soft Flight when hit, but do "pop                                      off" the shaft when hitting another dart. This                                      is desirable as it reduces deflection and allows                                      tight groups. Hard Flights were originally made                                      of a clear plastic, which resulted in fairly                                      dull colors in printed designs. During the last                                      few years, Melinex, a type of opaque plastic,                                      has been used for printing hundreds of brighter                                      designs. Also known as "Poly Flights"
NYLON FLIGHTS, made of ripstop                                      nylon fabric, ar by far the most durable type of                                      flight. These dart flights are are very hard to                                      tear. The stiffness varies according to the                                      weight and type of fabric used by the                                      manufacturer, but is roughly midway between Soft                                      and Hard flights. The most common point of wear                                      with this flight is at the front, where it is                                      inserted into the shaft. Since ripstop nylon                                      fabric is a thicker material, it is important to                                      pry open the slots on the shaft for a properly                                      loose fit to avoid damage to the flight. Nylon                                      Flights are available in solid colors and dozens                                      of printed designs.
DIMPLEX, RIBTEX, and other                                      similar styles are actually hard flights which                                      have been embossed with a texture. The bumpy or                                      ribbed surface tends to stiffen the flight,                                      which some darters consider desirable. The extra                                      surface area also adds a small amount of drag to                                      the flight, which makes the dart slightly more                                      stable in some cases. The various embossed types                                      of flights are generally a little harder to                                      insert into a metal shaft, due to increased                                      thickness. Use a dart tool or knife blade to                                      gently spread open the slots at the back of the                                      shaft.
---> Most types of flights tend to split at                                      the back center, where the folds meet and are                                      hit by dart points. FLIGHT PROTECTORS are small                                      metal or plastic devices that fit over and                                      protect this area. The life of a set of flights                                      may be greatly extended by using Flight                                      Protectors. They are also reusable and may                                      outlast many sets of flights. Flight protectors do not add any significant weight to the dart, and will not change the way the dart flies.
SOFT FLIGHTS are made of a                                      flexible plastic sheet, preprinted with a                                      variety of designs and then folded into shape.                                      Adhesive (glue) holds the layers of plastic                                      together. If the flight is torn during use, the                                      layers can be pressed together with fingers and                                      the adhesive will "heal" the tear. Another                                      benefit of this type of flight is that a Soft                                      Flight will often flex out of the way if another                                      dart hits it. These flights are available in                                      hundreds of bright, attractive designs. Also                                      known as "Reseal Flights".
Soft Flights have fallen out of favor in                                      recent years, and are now rarely available.
MOLDED FLIGHTS are usually made of injection-molded polyethene, and are generally more durable than traditional flights. However, they also normally cost more, and because of their rigidity, they might deflect oncoming darts more often. Several companies now make this type of flight, sometimes as part of "systems" that utilize special shafts that are either fixed or allow the flights to rotate.
Throwing              Tips & Habits to Avoid
There are a number of basics to keep in-mind, including                  several bad habits that you should avoid:
A steady Stance is very important. Don't                  lean way over the line to get closer to the                  board. This one is a tough habit for some people to beat,                  but try.. as leaning robs the darter of stability. The                  feet and legs should be positioned in a solid,                  comfortable, and relaxed stance, with weight distributed                  to both feet. Excessive leaning places nearly all of the                  body weight on one foot, tiring the shooter in long                  matches and damaging accuracy in the short run.
The few inches gained by leaning over the line are                      simply not worth the huge loss of balance and stability.                      Plus, leaning lowers the shoulder, forcing one to throw                      upwards, fighting gravity. Leaning also usually means                      tensing the major muscles of the body to preserve                      balance. This often results in a jerky release and poor                      follow-through, since the body is already off-balance.
A number of long-time players report back, knee,                      ankle, and foot pain, from spending many years standing                      on one foot while playing darts. Even in the short run,                      leaning to throw will cause minor pain in the small of                      the back. Especially for older players, a firm stance                      will stop this discomfort, both while playing and the                      next morning!
Think about it..
In what other sport                      would you drink a few beers, try to stand balanced "tiptoe" on one foot, and then try to consistently hit                      a small target with a sharp pointed object?
In EVERY competitive sport,                          Accuracy begins with a Solid Stance!
Keep your feet planted solidly on the floor, and                      avoid lunging, rocking, or lifting the back                      foot off the floor during the dart toss.
Leaning, or rocking,  is often done in an attempt to get a harder                      throw. The dartboard really does not care how hard you                      throw the dart. The only important thing is how                      accurately you throw it.!
Even a light throw, if accompanied by a smooth and                      exteded follow-through, will easily reach the dart board                      and score.
Such wasted motion can really be a bad habit, as it                      affects the entire body and throw. Lifting the foot even                      partway from the floor deprives the body of good balance                      during the crucial moment of follow-through. The strength                      required to reach the board with any normal dart is                      minimal, and for best accuracy should be provided only by the fingers, wrist, and forearm.                      After the dart leaves your hand, let your hand and arm                      continue on towards the dartboard, ending with full                      extension, and the fingers pointing at the target.
Imagine that you are bowling.. after letting go of the                      ball, you still must follow-through! The same applies to                      Golf, Billiards, Basketball, and most every other sport.                      Follow-through after realeasing the dart, ending up with                      your fingers fully extended, as though touching the spot                      that you want to hit.
Missing the board or hitting too low often cause                      beginners to think that more power is needed. This is                      rarely true, as one can tell by the fact that the missed                      darts usually hit hard enough to stick in the wall, which                      is quite a bit harder than a bristle dartboard. The                      problem lies with the accuracy of the throw and follow through. Even small children can be taught to throw                      accurately without lunging or using the shoulders in a                      throw.
If you feel short of power, stand upright, and keep                      your elbow up. The upper arm should be approximately                      parallel to the ground. This allows you to bring your arm                      back further, without hitting yourself in the face with                      the dart!
Stand Straight, Elbow Up, and you will effectively                      double the power of your throw without any extra effort.                      For one thing, the dart is much higher than when leaning,                      so gravity does much of the work for you.
The dart should be held in a level position, and                      maintain as level a stroke as possible. Don't hold the                      dart sideways, or in any other position than                      level and pointed at the board. Skill at darts, or any                      other target sport, means being able to perform the same                      motion exactly the same way, time after time.
Common sense, as well of years of studies in other                      sports, show that all non-essential                      motion should be avoided and discarded from the                      darter's routine.
In Darts, this means that if the dart is to strike the                      board at a level attitude (nearly always the best), it                      should be held and thrown from a position as close to                      level as is possible.
Any other position (such as dart point-up, dart                      point-down, or sideways) means extra motion of all the                      hand and wrist muscles to correct the initial starting                      position. Pure wasted effort... and usually futile, since                      the dart will likely leave the hand at an angle and                      wobble all the way to the board.
The correcting motion needed to get the dart pointed                      back at the dartbaord imparts inertia to the dart's mass,                      away from the direction of the target. Then the darts                      will often stick in the board at odd directions. After a                      long period of play, when concentration starts to slip a                      little, this can really be obvious, with darts hitting at                      all sorts of different angles.
Instead of "throwing" the darts, instead just                      gently "place" them in the dartboard with a smooth motion                      of your hand & fingers. Throwing like a baseball is                      unnecessary and even dangerous, as a dart thrown too hard                      may hit a wire or other object and bounce clear across                      the room to hit someone. Dartboard wires get bent and the                      bristles crushed from this type of abuse.
Fortunately, "baseball throwers" usually stop after a                      while, either due to the laughter of spectators or the                      frowns of the darts bar manager. This method is also                      hopelessly inaccurate, as all of the major strength                      muscles and very few of the fine control muscles are                      used. A dart should never be thrown so hard that the                      front of the dart barrel touches the bristles. If this                      happens when a dart is thrown normally, then the dart's                      point is too short and should be changed at a darts                      shop.
Avoid Spinning the dart as you release it to                      add stability. Spinning the dart is often done                      inadvertently, and is a symptom of uneven release,                      usually a side effect of wrapping fingers OVER the dart,                      which then forces the dart to roll off the fingers on                      release. Instead, grip a dart gently from the sides, so                      that it easily flies free upon opening the fingers.
All parts of the hand should leave the dart at nearly                      the same time to ensure level flight. To achieve this,                      make opening the hand a positive motion, and open the                      fingers and thumb rapidly to an extended position, ending                      up pointing at the target. This will also help keep the                      flights from touching the fingers as the dart leaves the                      hand.
As an exercise to get that qucik release, imagine                      dipping your hand in a bucket of paint, then fling it at                      a spot on the wall. If your hand ends up towards the                      floor or ceiling, that is where the paint would have                      gone! Let your fingers end up naturally open and pointing                      at the exact spot where you want the dart to go.
Purposely adding spin to a dart-throw is wasted effort                      at best, and spinning the darts can actually make your                      game worse by causing uneven release. Most darts flights                      are not shaped to properly induce spin, and the darts fly                      too short a distance (less than 6 feet) for aerodynamic                      spin to be a stabilizing factor anyway.
Soft Tip Darts (Electronic              Darts)
1.                  Description
A light weight dart with a soft plastic point is thrown                  at a board consisting of a perforated plastic face. Each                  hole in the board is sized to fit the dart point and has                  beveled edges to facilitate entry of the point. A series                  of sensors and circuits behind the face of the dartboard                  note the impact and inform the central computer                  processor, which calculates and displays the score for the                  dart players to see.
Note: The score displayed by the dart machine                      usually cannot be corrected, and the common rule for league play                      is: "The machine is always right!"   At a soft-tip darts tournament: if a tournament official is notified before the next person throws any darts, it may be possible to correct a scoring error.
In 1999, the recommended maximum weight for soft tip                      darts was raised to 18 grams, for league and tournament                      play. The actual machines used in bars can accomodate                      darts up to 25 grams or more, without damage to the                      board. However, darts over 20 grams tend to break more                      tips, so their use is discouraged. Check with your local                      league to see if they enforce any weight limits, as some are quite strict, and other leagues may not care what you                      throw.
2. Manufacturers
Most coin-op machines in the USA are made by                      Arachnid or Medalist. However, in the last few years some new companies have entered the market.  Particularly notable is DartsLive, a Japanese soft-tip brand that heavily promotes the networking features of their darts machines.  The major coin-op manufacturers                      also help setup leagues to play on their machines, and                      have national competitions. Quite a few companies import                      and market home versions of soft-tip darts machines.
3                      Measurements
Most games are played about the same way as for                      steel-pointed darts, except that the darts setup uses a throwing distance of                      8 feet for soft-tip machines. The height to the center of                      the board (the Bull) is 68 inches, the same height as an                      English Clockface Bristle Dartboardoard. Rules of play                      and weight limits for Soft-tip darts are generally set by                      the manufacturers at their annual meetings.
LEAGUE              PLAY
Darts Leagues are similar to other sports                  leagues, such as bowling or softball leagues. There are                  many variations, but the following is a general outline                  that applies to most dart leagues.
Leagues may be run by a group of volunteers, or the                  league may be run as a business. A group of players,                  (usually from 4 to 8) form each team, who play one night                  a week for a season, which may run from 8 to 40 weeks in                  length. During the season, each team normally plays each                  of the other teams several times. To ensure consistent & fair games, dart leagues generally measure and approve the darts setup and quality of the dartboards in each participating league darts bar.
In most areas, each team member must join a Darts                  Association, paying annual dues (typically $5-$40). This                  entitles you to participate in league activities, get the                  newsletter, if any, and sometimes get a patch, pin, or                  shirt with the Association logo. Compared to other activities, the cost of darts league play is generally very reasonable.
Each darts team must also usually pay a team fee every                  season, ($10 to $75) which goes towards paying the                  statistician, printing scoresheets, buying trophies,                  jackets, etc. In many cases, the team fee is paid for by                  the sponsoring bar, that is, the pub at which the team                  plays darts. The bar will also often provide team shirts,                  imprinted with the bar logo and team name.
Some leagues also have nightly fees, or player fees.                  These are usually in the $2 to $10 per night range, and                  is normally paid back at the end of the season as prize                  money, or as perks such as a major party, pre-paid trip                  to an out-of-town tournament, or as jackets. (One                  soft-tip league in Texas gives every member a 4-day trip                  to Las Vegas at the end of the season. They fill an                  entire chartered plane once each year!)
If several bars participate in the League, then play is                  usually Home-and-Away, meaning that you play at your home                  bar every other week, and visit at the other teams' bars                  the alternate weeks. Some leagues, called In-House                  Leagues, play all games at just one location.
Leagues in most areas play on weekday evenings,                      although there are quite a few local exceptions. Typical                      start time is 8pm, with play normally lasting from 1-1/2                      to 2-1/2 hours. Play consists of a variety of games of                      '01 and sometimes Cricket (see RULES ),                      with Singles, Doubles, and Team matches usually played.
Don't be afraid to join a league, due to lack of                      skill... Most leagues are split into divisions, of                      different skill levels, or have some sort of handicapping                      system.
For more info on Darts Leagues in your area, check                      the Association                      Directory .
How to                  Setup a Dartboard:
Steel-Point Type                  Dart Board Measurements for hanging a                  bristle dartboard:
Bristle Dartboard Setup, for stee-tip darts:
The Official dart throwing distance for league and tournaments, in                      most countries, is 2.37 meters, as measured along the                      floor, from the plane of the face of the dartboard. In                      Imperial measurement, or feet/inches, that distance is 7 feet, 9-1/4 inches.
The height of the board, from the floor to the center of the bull, (also called bullseye), is                      173 centimeters, or 5 feet, 8 inches.
To easily check your throw line measurement, the                      diagonal distance from the Bull, down and out to the                      Throw Line, should be 9 feet, 7-3/8 inches.
Soft-Tip Type                  Electronic Dart Board Setup                  Measurements:
The height of the Bullseye is the same as for                      both soft-tip and steel-tip dartboards: Height from floor to  center of  Bull,                      is 173 centimeters, or 5 feet, 8 inches.
Soft-Tip Darts are thrown from a                       distance of 8 feet, measured along the floor from the                      plane of the face of the electronic dartboard.
 
 
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